I know it's been a couple years since you posted this, but I haven't seen anyone else explain it correctly and you asked, so here goes. The screw you identified as the "idle screw" is just that; idle speed adjustment screw. The screw you identified as the "air screw" is actually the idle air adjusting screw, and is used only for adjusting the fuel mixture at idle. The screw you identified as the "mixture screw" is indeed just that, otherwise known as the main fuel adjusting screw. Finally, the little drain you identified as possibly being to drain a flooded condition is actually a feature of a dual fuel carb and is used to drain all the fuel from the float bowl. It was primarily used when one would be running on tractor fuel and somehow killed or shut off the engine while still running on tractor fuel. Then one would have to shut off both fuel feeds, open that drain and allow all the fuel to drain from the float bowl, (they originally had a small tray under the carb to catch the draining fuel). Then close it, open the petcock to feed gasoline only into the carb, restart the tractor, the switch it back over to tractor fuel once the engine was warmed up completely. This was because starting directly on tractor fuel was well nigh impossible, though you might get away with it if you restarted immediately upon shut down, before the engine had a chance to cool any. As to the initial settings on the screws, the main mixture screw should start out as 2 1/2 - 3 turns open, the idle air screw at 1 - 1 1/2 turns open. The idle speed screw should be set once the engine is at operating temp, and used in conjunction with a tachometer to adjust the idle speed to no lower than 350 RPM, 425-450 is what I find works best on mine. I have three, BTW; a 1940 that is set up as a pulling tractor (I've uploaded severl videos of me pulling with it),a 1946 that is till in it's "work clothes" so to speak, (the one in my avatar) and a 1948 that is completely restored to exactly like factory original right down to still being on 6 volt positive ground. Good video, enjoyed it, and your H sounds great!
could have done all this explaining without the tractor running. Then at the end, start the tractor and demonstrate the effects of adjusting each screw.
suppose it would be a perfect fideo demonstration,cant hear a word you saying with the tractor running,what would the start of setting on the air screw be and then on the fuel ajustment
Dan with the carb being tricky, maybe slight carb adjustments are called for depending on what you are doing?? Heavy work, little less air(richer mix) lighter work, little more air?? Thoughts?
I got a 47 H that we use to unload self unloading wagons, haylage and corn. Problem is the tractor PTO runs to fast and when i turn the governor down it stalls the tractor. am i not rich enough on fuel?
Just Picked up a 49 H.. the carbs are much trickier than most I've worked on...Enjoyed You Videos, Your doing good with that H, sounds Great.
There's a little O'Connor in my blood Dan. Good luck with your '49 H and thanks for watching and the comment.
That screw that you think is for flooding is used for additional fuel if needed in full throttle work in heavy plowing or disk work
I know it's been a couple years since you posted this, but I haven't seen anyone else explain it correctly and you asked, so here goes.
The screw you identified as the "idle screw" is just that; idle speed adjustment screw.
The screw you identified as the "air screw" is actually the idle air adjusting screw, and is used only for adjusting the fuel mixture at idle.
The screw you identified as the "mixture screw" is indeed just that, otherwise known as the main fuel adjusting screw.
Finally, the little drain you identified as possibly being to drain a flooded condition is actually a feature of a dual fuel carb and is used to drain all the fuel from the float bowl. It was primarily used when one would be running on tractor fuel and somehow killed or shut off the engine while still running on tractor fuel. Then one would have to shut off both fuel feeds, open that drain and allow all the fuel to drain from the float bowl, (they originally had a small tray under the carb to catch the draining fuel). Then close it, open the petcock to feed gasoline only into the carb, restart the tractor, the switch it back over to tractor fuel once the engine was warmed up completely. This was because starting directly on tractor fuel was well nigh impossible, though you might get away with it if you restarted immediately upon shut down, before the engine had a chance to cool any.
As to the initial settings on the screws, the main mixture screw should start out as 2 1/2 - 3 turns open, the idle air screw at 1 - 1 1/2 turns open. The idle speed screw should be set once the engine is at operating temp, and used in conjunction with a tachometer to adjust the idle speed to no lower than 350 RPM, 425-450 is what I find works best on mine. I have three, BTW; a 1940 that is set up as a pulling tractor (I've uploaded severl videos of me pulling with it),a 1946 that is till in it's "work clothes" so to speak, (the one in my avatar) and a 1948 that is completely restored to exactly like factory original right down to still being on 6 volt positive ground.
Good video, enjoyed it, and your H sounds great!
could have done all this explaining without the tractor running. Then at the end, start the tractor and demonstrate the effects of adjusting each screw.
Lol
Big help! Thanks man!!
Samuel Rutty glad it helped
suppose it would be a perfect fideo demonstration,cant hear a word you saying with the tractor running,what would the start of setting on the air screw be and then on the fuel ajustment
Lol
i got a 44 h i think i can get it better now thanks
Daniel farmall h your welcome. thanks for the comment
Dan with the carb being tricky, maybe slight carb adjustments are called for depending on what you are doing?? Heavy work, little less air(richer mix) lighter work, little more air?? Thoughts?
Excellent point. Outside temp affects richest required(at least til she's warm), maybe workload also a factor.
swinghaw Greetings sorry where some page where to buy parts for that tract
Steiner tractor parts carries old tractor parts
I got a 47 H that we use to unload self unloading wagons, haylage and corn. Problem is the tractor PTO runs to fast and when i turn the governor down it stalls the tractor. am i not rich enough on fuel?
Greetings sorry where some page where to buy parts for that tract
Duilio Mendoza steiner tractor parts. there are others but that's the one I use. good luck!