Thrilled you are doing this series! Living in Europe I think printing parts is definitely in my future. Shipping and duty is quite expensive from the U.S. and the UK. Love your channel your explanations and how to-s are excellent! Thank you!!
Thanks so much Steve, I appreciate your support 👍 I bought a couple printed kits before I dove into the hobby and bought a printer. Today’s printers are way better than what I started with.
Stumbled upon your content and I really like your treatment. Printing large figures and printing long thin parts is the real challenge in resin manufacturing. For long thin parts, I've learned that you shouldn't be constrained by the shape of the final object to get a good print. Allow yourself to modify it in a 3D program by either - separating parts to optimize printing and reduce the blemishes that z-banding can bring as you highlighted in your video - or add structural supports (like lateral reinforcements) that rigidify the chassis to reduce deformations during printing and shrinkage while curing. A support lattice generated by your slicer is not always going to get you what you want. Modeling your own "sprue" allows you more options to orientate the printed part. You can always cut these later and depending where you anchored the supports, you're going to need minimal cleaning. There's a real art of slicing a model for resin printing the same way there's a trade to optimize a sprue for plastic injection molding. It's unfortunate so many 3D models on the market are still sold by people having never printed their own or are rarely are willing to pay for someone who knows to optimize the files.
Wow, this is great advice. Just so I understand, to eliminate that Z shift that happened mid print would some diagonal supports going from the build plate to the opposite side of the body keep that from happening?
Thanks for showing me the infinite possibilities of what can be done. It makes me think of all the bodies I would love to build that aren't available on the open market. Always fun and inspiring to watch you.
This is such a helpful video. I’m both new to printing (been a bit over a year now for FDM and Resin) and modeling. Thanks for making such a helpful video.
@@ScaleModelExperiment James Thanks for asking but I’m quite satisfied with what you’ve done already. As I mentioned before I don’t have a 3D printer and space for it so long so I’m following what you sharing. And I like the way you explain in a good way so I’m probably will go back and watch your videos that day I get my own printer. But as you mentioned yes clear parts and maybe rubber tyre but I guess the results is what we see and the progress is the same.
Thank you for watching Hoppy. The community has asked that I do the full build so I will do so. It’ll be a long reoccurring series. I’ll walk through the whole process.
Great video. I had the same problem with those swirls. They are layer lines. That's why you see them on flat surfaces. I am guessing based on the look of the layer lines and the time it took to do those prints that you are printing at .05 layer height. Try lowering to .03 or even .02 and it will almost eliminate that. Hope thiis helps. I have not printed a car body yet but I print a lot of big stuff and it really improved my prints, they will take a lot longer though. I print everything at .03
Hi Butch, I printed both bodies at .035 layer height. It has more to do with angles and tilts than layer height. Layer height does make a difference when printing tiny delicate parts though.
Think they both look good and I can see were printing your own kits is way cool, James I would like to see some clear parts printed too ,what is the total cost to print a full kit' ? These last few videos have been great with your 3d printing really enjoy look forward the next video thanks again.
Hi Deen, thank you for watching 👍 clear parts is a video that I want you to do as well. Actual costs are: file $20, bottle of resin $26, around 4 hours with the slicer program setting up the prints and 20 or so hours printing. Then there is cleanup, curing and prep. It’s a lot easier to just buy a boxed model kit😂
@@ScaleModelExperiment well like you said might be easier to buy a kit but you don't get the same satisfaction plus you can make what you want well done James.
I would like to see the entire kit. You have really gone all in andit is impressive. I come at 3D from the gaming/tabletop side of things where there is a lot of info out there. But being a car modeler firstly it's good to a channel embrace 3D like you have. I'll be getting a printer later this year and by then who knows what will be available as the tech just moves so quickly. As for kits it looks like the sky is the limit also. Exciting times indeed.
Thanks for watching Nitro, I’ll count your vote for the full build series. I agree, there isn’t much out there for car modelers on YT when it comes to printing. I’m making mistakes and figuring stuff out. I’ll share what I’ve learned.
Another awesome video, James. I see your last video was received extremely well, That's fantastic, love ya work 🍻🍻🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🙏👌 I've printed this 1, there is a huge amount of files, Andrey Bezrodny is a brilliant designer ❤
Thanks for watching MM, yes the community is enjoying the content so I’ll keep making more😁 next weekend will be a build video of the PZY BMW that I’ve been working on. I’ll see if I can squeeze in 2 videos this week.
@@ScaleModelExperiment you're welcome James, and I'll be looking forward to it, 2 videos 📹 wow only if you can, life and family come first ❤️🙏🍻🍻🍻 KC 🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🍻🍻
Glad to see there’s decals. Now I can go ahead and buy the files. Thanks James. I would like to hear about your printer, why you chose what you did, settings etc. also, why water washable resin? I use ABS resin and it’s durable, yet flexible so it doesn’t shatter. I keep getting that Z shift line in my bodies as well. I keep trying different orientation on the build plate, but it seems I can’t get rid of it. Thanks
Hi BC, when my Anycubic 4k machine died I decided it was worth it to upgrade to a 12k machine vs fixing the 4k. The price of $380 was in the budget and it’s a newer machine. I use water wash because I’m too cheap to bulk buy IPA. The WW works well for me and I haven’t broken many parts over the years. I’ll figure out the z shift thing, it’s bugging me too.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks for input. My first printer was an Anycubic m5. It worked well for couple months before issues set in. Got a great deal on an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra. It’s been a great printer. But after 3 months I’m still playing with settings. I was wondering if WW resin had better resolution?🤔 I’m going to have to get a 500 bottle and try it out. Next Q; have you tried printing clear? I’ve used a whole bottle trying to print glass.😄
Finally some good resin test YT video. Thanks for your tips I can easily visually expected outcome as I am switching to resin. If you could share some tips tut of how to cut holes / square hollows inside stl files please dont ask me to learn blender. :) I tried the mesh boolean but most times does not work for example I was trying to create an hollow space in front of a car so the grill fits in.. hope you can help.
Hi James, I just subscribed to your channel. I watched the previous video also, very interesting too. I have a little bit of experience from work (I'm now freshly retired). The parts I struggled with were the thin parts, like the hood of your car, for example, that was warped after curing. Also support "warts" on the underside. I tried more support, less support without getting much improvement. I'm thinking about getting one printer but, from my experience, modeling is more relaxing and less frustrating. So if you have a chance to show how you print thin parts and reduce the "warts" that would be great. Also, how do you make the windshield? You don't have to print one, just showing the result from your previous builds. Thank you for these great tutorials and good continuation.
Welcome to the channel. I appreciate your subscription and support. I’ve found that thin parts can be challenging. But I’ve also found that heating them up with a hair dryer prior to cure you can bend them into shape. This can also be done post cure it just takes longer and you’re at risk of breaking the part. The warts are a fact of printing. You can try to orient the parts in a way that the warts are easy to sand off like a flat surface but you cannot eliminate them.
@@ScaleModelExperiment That's what I was thinking too, perhaps modifying the windshield file to turn it into a vac form mold, I use PETG (same as plastic blisters) for vacuum-forming, it's inexpensive by the sheet or can be recycled from packaging. One more thing, when a file is corrupted or not great, the only software that works, for me, to fix it is " 3D builder" it's free with Windows or can be downloaded from Microsoft. Thank you for your prompt reply👋🏻
@Yves95128 any tips for me on using a vacuum former for the first time? I’ve heard to heat the PETG till it starts to get wavy then quickly pull it down to the buck. How long do you leave the hot plastic on the buck? Does it melt the resin buck quickly?
@@ScaleModelExperiment It depends, some complex shapes require the petg to be very soft to get into all the detail, but for a wind shield wavy is good, you'll need to practice to get the feeling. Same thing about turning the vacuum before or after the part is in place, practice. About the resin mold, it's probably better to make it thick but as the petg will be thin 0.03 or 0.02 inches (0.5 or 0.8mm), it will cool down quickly and the mold should be okay, it takes perhaps 20 to 30 seconds, a little hair dryer blow in cold setting to be safe. (I forgot but the mold should be solid not hollow, the pressure is very strong even with a home vacuum) You can sand the mold and polish it to remove the printing texture, but no primer. When you draw the mold it's important to create a draft on the base of the mold, like a truncated pyramid to make it easy to release and it reduces the risk of wrinkles. The best is, once again, to try, if you encounter problems, I can suggest solutions, I was model-maker for 35 years (in architecture and prototypes) and Vacuum-forming is not always obvious.
Another great video! I will say the Hoonicorn is probably the best 3D kit I've found. I printed my body at a 40° angle on just the Y axis and it it came out with minimal shift and layer lines. The chassis is a bit more complicated to get really straight and it took several tries to get one that is "close enough". I hope to build it some day. Likely modify it a bit and call it the HooniKorn... Hmmm...
Hi Tim, thanks for watching. I was thinking of printing the chassis vertically with a tilt instead of flat to the build plate. I’ll post a video showing the results. It’s all just so trial and error. I can only imagine what you would do to modify it 😂
Hi RCT, my building/painting style is minimal paint. It’s my signature look. I like to preserve every small detail but still have amazingly shiny paint jobs. I’ll do a video on the prep work of the body, you’ll see.
Hi Paul, thanks for watching 👍 I really do like this Elegoo Saturn 4 printer, it is easy to use and isnt crazy expensive at $380. Chitubox does come with the printer but it is also available for free online.
I would really like to see some clear windows and or light lens and especially some clear red tail light covers done. I might have missed it but that isn't really something I've seen any tutorials or info about on YT so far. Many of the models you can buy from Cults or MMF have the light covers as separate models but I haven't tried it out yet or seen anyone else do it in videos. Thanks!
Yes the headlights and tail lights are seperate pieces and can be printed I. Clear resin. The windows however won’t look good printed. They need to be vacuum formed. I haven’t tried do that yet so it should be an entertaining video with lots of mistakes.
@@ScaleModelExperiment You're probably right about the windows, I hadn't really thought about it but to be printable they would have to be way too thick to look good. I bought some clear and some clear red resin but I haven't ever gotten around to trying the lens printing so anything you learn and can pass on would be very appreciated.
Really enjoyed this video. I'd like to see the whole process all the way to finishing and mounting. I have some resin printing tips to offer. 1) get yourself a silicone cake pan to aid in transferring the build plate out of the printer and onto your tray without dripping. 2) get a good scraper like a warner or level 5. The ones Elegoo supplies are meh and can bend. 3) pre-rinse your models. Before you put them in the main vat, have a "dirty vat" that removes 90% of the resin. It doesn't matter how dirty the dirty vat is. This will keep your clean vat clean for a lot longer. 4) use denatured alcohol instead of IPA. It's cheaper and it smells 6.2 quadrillion times better. 5) let your print air dry after rinsing and then lightly wipe the model before curing. This prevents any residual resin from settling on your surfaces and being cured to it. It also prevents said resin from curing on the turntable of your curing station. My first car was a '69 Mach One. Love the Mustangs.
@@ScaleModelExperiment hey just watched the other video and I see you already let your parts dry thoroughly before curing, so sorry I didn't get that. I do have some additional advice after watching that one though. Once your gloves have come in contact with resin, don't touch your lid or your printer controls or anything else you don't want to get cloudy over time until you've removed the gloves. Most older resin printers can be identified by how filthy the lids and controls look. It doesn't really hamper their performance at all, but it's a morale thing. I currently have a Saturn 3 Ultra, Saturn 4 Ultra and a Mars 5 Ultra. Elegoo is making such fine printers these days and for such an excellent price. You chose well sir.
Thank you for stopping by, I’ve been printing for almost 2 years now. It’s a hobby that pairs well with model building. I will be making more resin print related videos in the future. Thank you for your support👍
Great stuff , Can you show how it goes with clear glass. I`m having trouble with the glass . I`m using Elegoo Mars2 Pro printer with anycubic clear reson . Thanks and how they go together would be cool too.
Excellent comparison. For me no question which body will require less work. I'd enjoy seeing how the engine and chassis parts are printed and assembled. I like drivetrain detailing so I have a stash of resin engines and detail parts that I've bought over the years. Some of it is sublime.🤩 Most is good enough. 🙂 Some of it was a waste of resin.🤮
A few people have mentioned that they would like to see the chassis printed and test fit. I’m also interested to see how it all fits. Slowly’s models on cults gave away printable bolts so I could use those to hold it all together. Thanks for watching👍
Just bought an Elegoo printer and am excited to learn all about the hobby. Wonderful tips for a newbie. Would be handy to know the recipe for your wash fluid. Watched how you printed the interior pieces as well. Like to see how you set up print speed, maybe using a developing tool. I’m sure it’s crucial when using different resins. Are there choices for slicers and which is best? Also curious how to scale up or down files. Say a 1/24 into 1/43, for example. Can the purchased files be edited? Some model files have set wheels. Would there be a way to modify them to roll? Have you any experience with scanning such as Kiri Engine and maybe considered making a printable model? What mesh editor is best/easiest to learn? Just a few things I’m wondering about as I embark on this new hobby. Your channel is model build centric, so if my questions are more appropriate for a 3D printing learning channel, is there one you can recommend? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mad-Mel, I use a water wash resin so I use tap water with a splash of degreaser from the dollar store called LA Awesome but any household degreaser would work. I used the factory recommended print settings that Chitubox suggested. I only change the layer height for things that aren't super important to less detail. I have used Chitubox and Lychee. I prefer Chitubox because I think that the auto support works better. Scaling parts can be tricky. If the part is exaggerated then as your scale it up or down it will reveal. Yes, purchased files can be edited, but I have no experience with editing software. I had a friend making his model roll and it rolled off the table and broke. Bad idea!
Fantastic video James, thank you for sharing your journey. I have a couple of questions as I am going to follow you down this rabbit hole as I have just bought an Elegoo Mars 4 as well as a Photon Mono last night to give this a go. I come from FDM for many years, and only now dipping my toes in resin. I have a slightly different approach to what you are doing and will be looking to print in order to make silicon moulds so that I can have a go at resin casting. My questions to follow: If I wanted to print the same car, but with the aim of keeping some supports in the car so that the body remains rigid for the process of moulding, is there a way to make permanent braces internal of the body? What resin are you recommending to use for printing at the highest level of detail? Many thanks in advance, you have a new follower, I look forward to watching more of your videos in hope that you will create more on the cars. Regards, Ciaran from South Australia.
First of all, welcome to the channel I appreciate your support. I recommend learning some basic CAD to build in the reinforcements say from rocker panel to rocker then front to back. The supports we use to print would make a mess of your mold. Ive only used the Anycubic brand water wash resin myself but just received some 8k standard and water wash from Elegoo. I’ll do a comparison video printing tiny delicate stuff to see if there is a difference in performance of each. Take care and thanks again for watching. I’ll do my best to answer your questions.
Hi Jerome, it isn’t that bad once you figure it all out. I’ve shared most of what I’ve learned in the past 2 videos now. The rest is all just trial and error.
Yes, but then you are limited by the space on the build plate to print. Mine is 10” long so a 1/12 scale model body may not fit. Rims tires and engines would work though
I recommend getting yourself a set of artists pallet knifes for getting prints off the build plate, they are basically large razor blades. I mostly use a #2 but the longers ones come in handy too. They slip right under the edge of the base layers and prints just fall off.
Hi Thomas, harder than you think. You’d have to convert the model to digital then size it correctly. The wall thicknesses is a major issue too thin and they won’t print too thick and it looks silly.
Same here want to see the whole build. Sealed the deal for me, I see a Saturn 4 in my future. Large build plate will allow me to do this a lot easier than a small printer.
Hi Juan, I’ll count your vote for a full build series. I would like to get a small printer as a second unit for small delicate stuff. Are you listening Elegoo? The big printer handles big jobs very well. There are bigger ones out there but 10” works with me.
Yes sir interested in Elegoo. Was leaning towards Mars 5 ultra since for the most part i would print small parts like engines and body kits. Rethinking a larger printer if I get into full body kits, in your last video you did print smaller parts which looked good so I think I can't go wrong with saturn 3. Quick question have had good results with water washable resin?
@@Juan_Rivera835 yes the Saturn 3 from what I’ve read is the same as the 4 but without the self leveler. I appreciate the self leveler but it’s a pain to clean. If you can afford it the 4 ultra is a killer machine. I should have gotten that one but I’m happy with the one I bought.
Excellent! Very thorough James! Depending on the model, I’ll print at an angle somewhere between 15-20° along the Y axis, and maybe another 4° along the X. The size of the car will dictate how much of an angle you’ll need to tilt, and of course, it’ll depend on the plate size. I’m not a fan of printing flat at all. A lot of cars have trim at the bottom of the rockers, and I’ve seen folks try to print those flat. Immediately I can see where the trim along with the rocker was warped along with a roof that printed not so stellar. The Mustang has an advantage however as Andrey designed that area to be extra thick due to its styling. Thanks for the great video…..I’ll be posting this on FB to get the word out. ✌🏾
Thanks for your insight Bill. I’m thinking that maybe I’ll try a flat print with only a tilt. That way it’ll keep the body low on supports but yet still keep an angle to avoid print lines. Hmmm, time for another experiment 😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment Well, printing flat and the success of that can be machine dependent too. The Mini 4K I have doesn’t do as well printing clear parts flat for example as well as the Mighty 8K. The clear resin in particular gets a “buildup” of hardened resin right where the supports meet the object, and it can be tough as nails to get them off. Raising the default print height helps…..around 7-8mm’s as opposed to the default 5mm’s. The clear has different properties though, so each time it can print a bit differently than before…..printers can and do have a mind of their own some days! ☺️
You have really helped me decide to postpone my SLA 3D project because miniatures with lots of details don’t really show flat surfaces where print lines appear. Do you have any suggestion for other resin printers that show MINIMAL print lines?
My first machine was a 4k Anycubic mono x2. It taught me the basics but now that I have a 12k Elegoo machine it is near perfect with good angles and high resolution. Could I tweak it a little more? Yes I could, but time isn’t what I have a lot of… I recommend the highest resolution printer and largest size print bed that you can afford. Just remember that if you go cheap in the beginning you’ll always wish you spent a little more for a better printer. Mine was $380.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I agree with you, but do you think according to your research and experience that today’s SLA or should I say mSLA resin printers (Saturn 3/4 Ultra, Anycubic Mono M7 Pro, HeyGears Reflex RS) can achieve injection-molds-like results in the hands of a professional?
@popilirol there will always be a pretty side and an ugly side to a 3d printed part. Same with a production kit, both sides are nice but there will be a seam down the middle. If angled well you can minimize print lines to something that can be whisked away with sandpaper quickly. The variety is what I enjoy with the 3d prints. Anyone can go buy a Mustang kit but you have to print a Hoonicorn.
First time finding you. I just printed my first print yesterday. I would love to see printing transparent Windows. And how do you get them to fit. And see the rest of the build.
You COULD print a window in clear resin, spend the rest of your life polishing all of the support marks off of it to a perfect clear part or… print a buck and vacuum form some clear windows. Check the final video I posted today where I show the process.
That is so amazing! I'd like to see a whole build too! Man, if anyone could 3d print a version of my 68 Fairlane 2 door hardtop, I'd have to buy one! Lol. Thank you, James👍
Thanks for watching Fordman, the community has spoken that they want to see the whole build. I checked and didn’t see any files available for a 68 Fairlane. 😞
Thanks for looking. Maybe one day there'll be one!🤞In 2022 I bought a resin 68 Torino body and never got it. Now the site is all different, dealing with motorcycles. I've given up on ever getting it.
The only problem with such a high angle is you risk the Z shift. I had a faint line at 13 degrees from the print moving ever so slightly. Sure I could put heavier supports but then it makes more work in post prep. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment.
Can you print clear for damaged or missing windshields and produce better detailed headlamps. Great show to explain the differences in positioning the bodies.
Hi Poppa, I’m putting together a video for this weekend about printing clear parts. I think once you see how they come out you’ll know your answer. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment.
@thestig1899 Hi Stig, printing with clear resin is difficult. Reason is it is still a series of printed lines and you can see through the resin and all of the lines. In order for something to be translucent it has to be smooth. Something like a headlight or tail light is easy to polish the lines but a windshield is difficult to get perfect. The answer is vacuum forming. I have not tried it yet but will be soon.
Awesome video James. I started 3D printing 4 months ago. Hay what is a 70 year old to do right? I have 3 of his files and have not tried bodys yet so I would like to see the whole process as it were printing it. So 13 degrees both directions, got it. 👍 Thanks again James! LLAP 🖖
Just curious, what does the program cost for that Mustang? And is it yours forever, or a one time print and done, Was looking for a 1963 Chevrolet Impala 4 door to print, i know they make a 63 station wagon, great video...
Hi CC, the file pack costs $20 and it is mine forever to print as many times as I want. They only ask that you don’t sell the files or sell the printed items. Good luck finding your 63 wagon, that’s an odd one.
@@ScaleModelExperiment got ya I'll take a look at it, I saw you have a few more videos/reviews about 3d printing I'll have to make some time to watch. Again thanks so much for the info.
Is that angle that you're putting the car at, what you calculated or just from some tests? There is actually an equation that you can do according to pixels that will tell you the best angle for your printer. Which makes the layer lines even less noticeable. Also, I know you removed some supports but you still do not need that many. You can get rid of half the supports that you have. I also print Bodies in 1/25 and 1/32 for slot cars. In saying that I am glad that you're doing a video like this. People think that it is hard and its actually really easy. SLA printers have come along way in the past few years, so they are much easier to use.
Hi Danny, yes that angle is near 45 degrees. The problem I am having is when the print gets too high into the air I get a z shift somewhere on the print. I can sand off layer lines but a z shift is a deal killer for me. After sanding there is a bump where that line was. Therefore I’m trying to keep the prints low and well supported so they are rock solid.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I understand. I’ve had Z shift but seems to be at random and for no specific reason at all. What is weird though, I’ve printed tall figures that were 10inches plus and not had that issue. Wondering if it’s because of the angle and weight? I normally print flat to keep print time down and use very little supports. I like your content, I will be continuing to tune in.
I recently got a Saturn 4 Ultra but I'm in so far over my head I don't really know how to use it effectively. The tilting vat I am told means that sadly, all the videos about how to angle prints are useless for me because of the way the fep peels away differently. It's been tough to figure out, not much success yet.
I don’t know for sure because I don’t have the ultra (yet.. are you listening Elegoo?) but I would angle and tilt just like I did and you should get the same results just faster.
Welcome to the channel Kleven 😁 I published a video on clear parts printing a few days ago. Check in the resin printing playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLC8Xkw_Cb3kVydqd4jNfvbzg0bKfMOZgI.html&si=xVYKRqxQEC7oQUjS
I agree, that would be a great video. When you say entire process you mean slicing, printing, prepping, painting, polishing, assembly all in 30 mins? And hour? How long is too long?
@@ScaleModelExperiment Just do a series of 10-15 mins long for each video. I like long videos but according to what I have seen with some of my videos most people do not. I watch UA-cam like it is Tv lol.
@dannywiley4072 I don’t watch tv, I only watch UA-cam. So if I see A4 or Mokei post a video I’ll make time to watch it on the TV instead of phone. I don’t mind watching for an hour if the content is 👍
Printing clear parts would be interesting, as well as seeing the difference in printing the whole engine, or in pieces. I also would be curious about setup of everything, dealing with resin, etc.
Would it be possible for you to print a seated driver figure ? or might have to be in two pieces but still conform to the seat and assembled after painting. Sooo many cars sooo few drivers...................cheers eh!
Great stuff...so how do you save them into your computer? And how do you transfer them into the printer? Just curious, I would like to get a 2d printer but now sure how that works.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I'm thinking on getting one, so hopefully I can get some 3d print stuff lol..not sure about full kits like you, but engines and rims and tires would be a nice start.
@marsgarage8217 to help your shopping, if you don’t need to print bodies you can get by with less than a 9” print screen. Otherwise get the 9 or 10” for bodies.
Print both the full engine and in pieces so you know how to fit it all inside the engine bay. I suggest replacing the drive shafts with styrene rod as well. They were a little short.
I think it would be good to see you print using a resin mix. I mix mine to avoid it being so brittle. I use Tenacious D to make it more flexible. Look forward to hearing your reply.
I just reviewed a resin from Nova3D, their water washable tough grey. It had flex to it after curing. I think it would work well for printing body kits so the parts could be flexed into position easier.
My Saturn plus is great, but my prints are sticking to the build plate, to the point they are breaking trying to get them to come loose. Any help would be great!
I'd enjoy videos helping me decide whether an STL file available for sale online is actually printable, and is actually of sufficient quality to download. What should I look for in the screenshots of a file. I'm not looking for reviews of individual files, but how you know you've found one you can use.
That’s a great question. I’d rather not make a video because I don’t want to sway someone away from someone’s files. But, I like to look for evidence of individual pieces and not just a whole interior in 1 piece or the body with molded in headlights and taillights and windows. Once I find a designer I like I usually stick with them. I can recommend Andrey, Olivizzle, Bayzoff, 3DVM, Slowlys, and Motobas right off the top of my head.
I printed mine using a cut method. I cut the rear off just below the window line, so I could re join it with glue and putty along that line & tilted it back at about 13 degrees
I noticed you were pulling out the supports with your bare hands after the wash. I thought you shouldn't handle resin with your bare hands until its been cured or was I mistaken?
@@ScaleModelExperiment thanks for your reply I build 1/35th scale armour & there’s never any cars for that scale or even 1/32nd which is near enough. That’s made my day
Hi Gary, thanks for watching. It is a great hobby to get into. Realize that it is not a safe hobby and you must be careful and thoughtful when using chemicals. I’m going to be doing a video on safety very soon.
I think it could print a 1/18 scale body. It might be at 90 degrees or close to it standing up though. Which of course would lead to bad print lines. I’ve seen bigger 15” printers but they are expensive.
With 3d printing there will ALWAYS be print lines and suttle z shift lines. It's just part of printing. But as someone earlier said, it you print slower print lines and z shift lines are less. As some understand, quality takes longer. Just my 2.71 cents. 😊
Andrey provides 11 sizes in the download from 1/43 to 1/8. The detail at 1/25 is so amazing I can’t imagine it in small scale! 1/8 would be difficult to print without an industrial size machine.
Elegoo and Nova3D have been sending me samples lately. I really like Elegoo’s 8k resins. Vanilla colored is my favorite so far but I haven’t tried the smoke grey yet. My go to resin prior to Elegoo was Anycubic water wash. They all have their strengths. I’ll do a video comparing all of them soon.
I use water with a degreaser LA awesome that I buy at the dollar store. I use a water wash resin so it cleans it easily. I have tried Elegoo’s resin detergent on their ABS resin and it works amazingly well. But it’s $50/bottle.
@@ScaleModelExperiment yea and like regular square frames or notched frames always have trouble getting them to print. Your content is amazing by the way sat up all night watching just bought the same printer lol very informative looking forward to more videos
@neikcoeharris6036 ok, I get you. I’ll plan on doing a chassis video. It should be a challenge to get it angled and supported without too much prep required afterwards.
Hello Lunar, I prefer to use Water washable resin but have used ABS standard resin with good results as well. My favorite is Elegoo 8k water washable resin line.
Yes, I could have set the resolution for .01, it would have taken twice as long to print but they would still be there just finer. Angling and tilting is the key to smooth prints. I’m learning more as I go. When I perfect it I’ll shoot more video.
Rotate the x,y and z to prevent panels facing the x, 45 degrees or y axis. The best spot for printing using anti aliasing is found by printing a sphere and observing the best angles on it. turns out the inbetween angle of 45 degrees is the best so x22.5, y22.5, z 22.5.
You’re absolutely correct. When I drained the vat to change to clear resin in noticed some marks in the FEP. That would have caused the marks on the tops of both cars.
@@melvilib the FEP is the clear film that is between the liquid resin and the screen that displays the image to be printed. A crease in the FEP will show in the print.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense now. If it is anything like plastic screen protectors for phones, then it woyld be easy to get that uneven or trap dust.
![FORD MUSTANG FASTBACK 1/24 REVELL Model car build [Full version]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j1aRGTfDIaE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thrilled you are doing this series! Living in Europe I think printing parts is definitely in my future. Shipping and duty is quite expensive from the U.S. and the UK. Love your channel your explanations and how to-s are excellent! Thank you!!
Thanks so much Steve, I appreciate your support 👍 I bought a couple printed kits before I dove into the hobby and bought a printer. Today’s printers are way better than what I started with.
Love to see the whole build. As a Mustang guy, good to see this.
Thanks for watching, I agree that the full build would be a fun one. Let’s see what the community wants.
I agree, I would love to see a full build on the Hoonicorn drift car , if you can do the decals like the real car.
@Warrkhann I have the decals, it will take a while to print all of the pieces and then have a prep party 🎉.
DO IT! 😀
@Shooter_FPV haha, yes the response is overwhelmingly positive, I will👍
Stumbled upon your content and I really like your treatment. Printing large figures and printing long thin parts is the real challenge in resin manufacturing. For long thin parts, I've learned that you shouldn't be constrained by the shape of the final object to get a good print. Allow yourself to modify it in a 3D program by either
- separating parts to optimize printing and reduce the blemishes that z-banding can bring as you highlighted in your video
- or add structural supports (like lateral reinforcements) that rigidify the chassis to reduce deformations during printing and shrinkage while curing. A support lattice generated by your slicer is not always going to get you what you want. Modeling your own "sprue" allows you more options to orientate the printed part. You can always cut these later and depending where you anchored the supports, you're going to need minimal cleaning.
There's a real art of slicing a model for resin printing the same way there's a trade to optimize a sprue for plastic injection molding. It's unfortunate so many 3D models on the market are still sold by people having never printed their own or are rarely are willing to pay for someone who knows to optimize the files.
Wow, this is great advice. Just so I understand, to eliminate that Z shift that happened mid print would some diagonal supports going from the build plate to the opposite side of the body keep that from happening?
Thanks for showing me the infinite possibilities of what can be done. It makes me think of all the bodies I would love to build that aren't available on the open market. Always fun and inspiring to watch you.
Thanks Jeff, it’s a whole new world of possibilities. Unfortunately my stash is getting out of control again😁
I love watching these 3D printing videos, James. I love learning about the hows and whys and seeing if I really want o jump down this rabbit hole.
Hi JD, it definitely takes away from building time AND you end up hoarding files instead of kits😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment Oh yes!! It becomes it's own hobby 😂
I’d love to see the whole build including the clear parts. This has been very informative. Very good work.
Thanks for watching Richard. The majority wants to see the whole build so I’ll make it happen.
This is such a helpful video. I’m both new to printing (been a bit over a year now for FDM and Resin) and modeling. Thanks for making such a helpful video.
Of course! My pleasure to give back to the community for all that I have received. Enjoy the videos 👍
They printed amazingly. I do take the tilted over the flat one. Thanks for sharing james. Is it possible to cover the decal creation procedure?
I did not create the decals. They were done by STS decals. I simply bought them.
Other than that print lines it’s sharp edges and looks good 👍 thanks for sharing your experience.
Keep up with the great work James 👍
Thanks for watching Ronny, what do you want to see next? Clear parts? Printing delicate parts? Printed parts sanding and prep?
@@ScaleModelExperiment James Thanks for asking but I’m quite satisfied with what you’ve done already.
As I mentioned before I don’t have a 3D printer and space for it so long so I’m following what you sharing.
And I like the way you explain in a good way so I’m probably will go back and watch your videos that day I get my own printer.
But as you mentioned yes clear parts and maybe rubber tyre but I guess the results is what we see and the progress is the same.
Thank you Ronny, I’m glad that you are enjoying the videos. I do enjoy making them and sharing thoughts with you all.
Fascinating videos on 3D printing, I've watched both of them.
Lots of great information!
I'd like to see you do a whole build please.
Thank you for watching Hoppy. The community has asked that I do the full build so I will do so. It’ll be a long reoccurring series. I’ll walk through the whole process.
Great video. I had the same problem with those swirls. They are layer lines. That's why you see them on flat surfaces. I am guessing based on the look of the layer lines and the time it took to do those prints that you are printing at .05 layer height. Try lowering to .03 or even .02 and it will almost eliminate that. Hope thiis helps. I have not printed a car body yet but I print a lot of big stuff and it really improved my prints, they will take a lot longer though. I print everything at .03
Hi Butch, I printed both bodies at .035 layer height. It has more to do with angles and tilts than layer height. Layer height does make a difference when printing tiny delicate parts though.
Think they both look good and I can see were printing your own kits is way cool,
James I would like to see some clear parts printed too ,what is the total cost to print a full kit' ? These last few videos have been great with your 3d printing really enjoy look forward the next video thanks again.
Hi Deen, thank you for watching 👍 clear parts is a video that I want you to do as well. Actual costs are: file $20, bottle of resin $26, around 4 hours with the slicer program setting up the prints and 20 or so hours printing. Then there is cleanup, curing and prep. It’s a lot easier to just buy a boxed model kit😂
@@ScaleModelExperiment well like you said might be easier to buy a kit but you don't get the same satisfaction plus you can make what you want well done James.
I would like to see the entire kit. You have really gone all in andit is impressive. I come at 3D from the gaming/tabletop side of things where there is a lot of info out there. But being a car modeler firstly it's good to a channel embrace 3D like you have. I'll be getting a printer later this year and by then who knows what will be available as the tech just moves so quickly. As for kits it looks like the sky is the limit also.
Exciting times indeed.
Thanks for watching Nitro, I’ll count your vote for the full build series. I agree, there isn’t much out there for car modelers on YT when it comes to printing. I’m making mistakes and figuring stuff out. I’ll share what I’ve learned.
Another awesome video, James. I see your last video was received extremely well, That's fantastic, love ya work 🍻🍻🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🙏👌
I've printed this 1, there is a huge amount of files, Andrey Bezrodny is a brilliant designer ❤
Thanks for watching MM, yes the community is enjoying the content so I’ll keep making more😁 next weekend will be a build video of the PZY BMW that I’ve been working on. I’ll see if I can squeeze in 2 videos this week.
@@ScaleModelExperiment you're welcome James, and I'll be looking forward to it, 2 videos 📹 wow only if you can, life and family come first ❤️🙏🍻🍻🍻 KC 🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🍻🍻
You’re so right, my wife is very understanding.
@@ScaleModelExperiment ❤️🙏🇦🇺🦘🤗 my wife is the same, so we are both very lucky 🍻🇦🇺🦘
Glad to see there’s decals. Now I can go ahead and buy the files. Thanks James.
I would like to hear about your printer, why you chose what you did, settings etc. also, why water washable resin? I use ABS resin and it’s durable, yet flexible so it doesn’t shatter. I keep getting that Z shift line in my bodies as well. I keep trying different orientation on the build plate, but it seems I can’t get rid of it. Thanks
Hi BC, when my Anycubic 4k machine died I decided it was worth it to upgrade to a 12k machine vs fixing the 4k. The price of $380 was in the budget and it’s a newer machine. I use water wash because I’m too cheap to bulk buy IPA. The WW works well for me and I haven’t broken many parts over the years. I’ll figure out the z shift thing, it’s bugging me too.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks for input. My first printer was an Anycubic m5. It worked well for couple months before issues set in. Got a great deal on an Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra. It’s been a great printer. But after 3 months I’m still playing with settings. I was wondering if WW resin had better resolution?🤔 I’m going to have to get a 500 bottle and try it out.
Next Q; have you tried printing clear? I’ve used a whole bottle trying to print glass.😄
Love to see the whole build as well...
Thanks for watching and commenting. How long is too long of a video for the whole process?
Finally some good resin test YT video. Thanks for your tips I can easily visually expected outcome as I am switching to resin. If you could share some tips tut of how to cut holes / square hollows inside stl files please dont ask me to learn blender. :) I tried the mesh boolean but most times does not work for example I was trying to create an hollow space in front of a car so the grill fits in.. hope you can help.
Sorry I cannot help. I only print other people’s files. I don’t edit files.
Hi James, I just subscribed to your channel. I watched the previous video also, very interesting too.
I have a little bit of experience from work (I'm now freshly retired). The parts I struggled with were the thin parts, like the hood of your car, for example, that was warped after curing. Also support "warts" on the underside. I tried more support, less support without getting much improvement.
I'm thinking about getting one printer but, from my experience, modeling is more relaxing and less frustrating.
So if you have a chance to show how you print thin parts and reduce the "warts" that would be great. Also, how do you make the windshield? You don't have to print one, just showing the result from your previous builds. Thank you for these great tutorials and good continuation.
Welcome to the channel. I appreciate your subscription and support. I’ve found that thin parts can be challenging. But I’ve also found that heating them up with a hair dryer prior to cure you can bend them into shape. This can also be done post cure it just takes longer and you’re at risk of breaking the part. The warts are a fact of printing. You can try to orient the parts in a way that the warts are easy to sand off like a flat surface but you cannot eliminate them.
Oops, I have not printed a windshield yet. I have a vacuum forming machine that I need to experiment with. I’ll print bucks this week and try it out.
@@ScaleModelExperiment That's what I was thinking too, perhaps modifying the windshield file to turn it into a vac form mold, I use PETG (same as plastic blisters) for vacuum-forming, it's inexpensive by the sheet or can be recycled from packaging. One more thing, when a file is corrupted or not great, the only software that works, for me, to fix it is " 3D builder" it's free with Windows or can be downloaded from Microsoft. Thank you for your prompt reply👋🏻
@Yves95128 any tips for me on using a vacuum former for the first time? I’ve heard to heat the PETG till it starts to get wavy then quickly pull it down to the buck. How long do you leave the hot plastic on the buck? Does it melt the resin buck quickly?
@@ScaleModelExperiment It depends, some complex shapes require the petg to be very soft to get into all the detail, but for a wind shield wavy is good, you'll need to practice to get the feeling. Same thing about turning the vacuum before or after the part is in place, practice.
About the resin mold, it's probably better to make it thick but as the petg will be thin 0.03 or 0.02 inches (0.5 or 0.8mm), it will cool down quickly and the mold should be okay, it takes perhaps 20 to 30 seconds, a little hair dryer blow in cold setting to be safe. (I forgot but the mold should be solid not hollow, the pressure is very strong even with a home vacuum)
You can sand the mold and polish it to remove the printing texture, but no primer. When you draw the mold it's important to create a draft on the base of the mold, like a truncated pyramid to make it easy to release and it reduces the risk of wrinkles. The best is, once again, to try, if you encounter problems, I can suggest solutions, I was model-maker for 35 years (in architecture and prototypes) and Vacuum-forming is not always obvious.
Another great video! I will say the Hoonicorn is probably the best 3D kit I've found. I printed my body at a 40° angle on just the Y axis and it it came out with minimal shift and layer lines. The chassis is a bit more complicated to get really straight and it took several tries to get one that is "close enough". I hope to build it some day. Likely modify it a bit and call it the HooniKorn... Hmmm...
Hi Tim, thanks for watching. I was thinking of printing the chassis vertically with a tilt instead of flat to the build plate. I’ll post a video showing the results. It’s all just so trial and error. I can only imagine what you would do to modify it 😂
Sanding - would you get easier results with a good rattle-can primer/filler?
Hi RCT, my building/painting style is minimal paint. It’s my signature look. I like to preserve every small detail but still have amazingly shiny paint jobs. I’ll do a video on the prep work of the body, you’ll see.
Thanks again for the info. your builds are awsome! what would be a good setup for starting out? do they come with software?
Hi Paul, thanks for watching 👍 I really do like this Elegoo Saturn 4 printer, it is easy to use and isnt crazy expensive at $380. Chitubox does come with the printer but it is also available for free online.
I would really like to see some clear windows and or light lens and especially some clear red tail light covers done. I might have missed it but that isn't really something I've seen any tutorials or info about on YT so far. Many of the models you can buy from Cults or MMF have the light covers as separate models but I haven't tried it out yet or seen anyone else do it in videos. Thanks!
Yes the headlights and tail lights are seperate pieces and can be printed I. Clear resin. The windows however won’t look good printed. They need to be vacuum formed. I haven’t tried do that yet so it should be an entertaining video with lots of mistakes.
@@ScaleModelExperiment You're probably right about the windows, I hadn't really thought about it but to be printable they would have to be way too thick to look good. I bought some clear and some clear red resin but I haven't ever gotten around to trying the lens printing so anything you learn and can pass on would be very appreciated.
I’ll make a batch of parts to print in clear resin and make a video.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Many thanks!
Thanks for this video James.
For the glazing, I suggest using Evergreen polycarbonate sheets in 0.25mm or 0.37mm. The results are very satisfactory!
Really enjoyed this video. I'd like to see the whole process all the way to finishing and mounting. I have some resin printing tips to offer. 1) get yourself a silicone cake pan to aid in transferring the build plate out of the printer and onto your tray without dripping. 2) get a good scraper like a warner or level 5. The ones Elegoo supplies are meh and can bend. 3) pre-rinse your models. Before you put them in the main vat, have a "dirty vat" that removes 90% of the resin. It doesn't matter how dirty the dirty vat is. This will keep your clean vat clean for a lot longer. 4) use denatured alcohol instead of IPA. It's cheaper and it smells 6.2 quadrillion times better. 5) let your print air dry after rinsing and then lightly wipe the model before curing. This prevents any residual resin from settling on your surfaces and being cured to it. It also prevents said resin from curing on the turntable of your curing station.
My first car was a '69 Mach One. Love the Mustangs.
These are great tips! Thanks for your advice. Especially about the denatured and the cake pan.
@@ScaleModelExperiment hey just watched the other video and I see you already let your parts dry thoroughly before curing, so sorry I didn't get that. I do have some additional advice after watching that one though. Once your gloves have come in contact with resin, don't touch your lid or your printer controls or anything else you don't want to get cloudy over time until you've removed the gloves. Most older resin printers can be identified by how filthy the lids and controls look. It doesn't really hamper their performance at all, but it's a morale thing. I currently have a Saturn 3 Ultra, Saturn 4 Ultra and a Mars 5 Ultra. Elegoo is making such fine printers these days and for such an excellent price. You chose well sir.
New to this channel and as a 3D "some sort of" modeller for sure would like more of this stuff.
Thank you for stopping by, I’ve been printing for almost 2 years now. It’s a hobby that pairs well with model building. I will be making more resin print related videos in the future. Thank you for your support👍
Great stuff , Can you show how it goes with clear glass. I`m having trouble with the glass . I`m using Elegoo Mars2 Pro printer with anycubic clear reson . Thanks and how they go together would be cool too.
Hi John, yes I’ll show the printing of clear parts next episode. Thanks for watching along. I appreciate your support 👍
Excellent comparison. For me no question which body will require less work. I'd enjoy seeing how the engine and chassis parts are printed and assembled. I like drivetrain detailing so I have a stash of resin engines and detail parts that I've bought over the years. Some of it is sublime.🤩 Most is good enough. 🙂 Some of it was a waste of resin.🤮
A few people have mentioned that they would like to see the chassis printed and test fit. I’m also interested to see how it all fits. Slowly’s models on cults gave away printable bolts so I could use those to hold it all together. Thanks for watching👍
Just bought an Elegoo printer and am excited to learn all about the hobby. Wonderful tips for a newbie. Would be handy to know the recipe for your wash fluid. Watched how you printed the interior pieces as well. Like to see how you set up print speed, maybe using a developing tool. I’m sure it’s crucial when using different resins. Are there choices for slicers and which is best? Also curious how to scale up or down files. Say a 1/24 into 1/43, for example. Can the purchased files be edited? Some model files have set wheels. Would there be a way to modify them to roll? Have you any experience with scanning such as Kiri Engine and maybe considered making a printable model? What mesh editor is best/easiest to learn? Just a few things I’m wondering about as I embark on this new hobby. Your channel is model build centric, so if my questions are more appropriate for a 3D printing learning channel, is there one you can recommend? Thanks in advance.
Hi Mad-Mel, I use a water wash resin so I use tap water with a splash of degreaser from the dollar store called LA Awesome but any household degreaser would work. I used the factory recommended print settings that Chitubox suggested. I only change the layer height for things that aren't super important to less detail. I have used Chitubox and Lychee. I prefer Chitubox because I think that the auto support works better. Scaling parts can be tricky. If the part is exaggerated then as your scale it up or down it will reveal. Yes, purchased files can be edited, but I have no experience with editing software. I had a friend making his model roll and it rolled off the table and broke. Bad idea!
@@ScaleModelExperiment thank you for responding. I’m still a newbie, so every little bit of advice helps.
Fantastic video James, thank you for sharing your journey. I have a couple of questions as I am going to follow you down this rabbit hole as I have just bought an Elegoo Mars 4 as well as a Photon Mono last night to give this a go. I come from FDM for many years, and only now dipping my toes in resin.
I have a slightly different approach to what you are doing and will be looking to print in order to make silicon moulds so that I can have a go at resin casting.
My questions to follow:
If I wanted to print the same car, but with the aim of keeping some supports in the car so that the body remains rigid for the process of moulding, is there a way to make permanent braces internal of the body?
What resin are you recommending to use for printing at the highest level of detail?
Many thanks in advance, you have a new follower, I look forward to watching more of your videos in hope that you will create more on the cars.
Regards, Ciaran from South Australia.
First of all, welcome to the channel I appreciate your support.
I recommend learning some basic CAD to build in the reinforcements say from rocker panel to rocker then front to back. The supports we use to print would make a mess of your mold.
Ive only used the Anycubic brand water wash resin myself but just received some 8k standard and water wash from Elegoo. I’ll do a comparison video printing tiny delicate stuff to see if there is a difference in performance of each.
Take care and thanks again for watching. I’ll do my best to answer your questions.
Great video, nice to see some of the time and adjustments that are needed to create parts. Far from press start and go.😎👍🏾
Hi Jerome, it isn’t that bad once you figure it all out. I’ve shared most of what I’ve learned in the past 2 videos now. The rest is all just trial and error.
When you buy those 3D patterns can you scale it up to make like 1/12 scale.
Yes, but then you are limited by the space on the build plate to print. Mine is 10” long so a 1/12 scale model body may not fit. Rims tires and engines would work though
excellent video, learned quiet a bit. Love to see how you will do the whole file. Have you ever tried to print a body flat with a tilt?
Hi Terry, thanks for watching👍 I have not tried that yet, it might just work! I’ll have to try it.
I recommend getting yourself a set of artists pallet knifes for getting prints off the build plate, they are basically large razor blades. I mostly use a #2 but the longers ones come in handy too. They slip right under the edge of the base layers and prints just fall off.
That’s a good tip. Thank you for the advice 👍
What resin did you use? How long did you then expose the parts? How do you deal with the fact that the resin parts change their shape?
Hello San, I use Elegoo water washable 8k resins and cure them for 2.4 seconds exposure. I don’t notice much shrinkage of parts after curing.
These are awesome!
I would love to upscale older kits that are only 1/24 _1/25 th..
I wonder how difficult that would be?..
Hi Thomas, harder than you think. You’d have to convert the model to digital then size it correctly. The wall thicknesses is a major issue too thin and they won’t print too thick and it looks silly.
@@ScaleModelExperiment gotcha 👍
Same here want to see the whole build. Sealed the deal for me, I see a Saturn 4 in my future. Large build plate will allow me to do this a lot easier than a small printer.
Hi Juan, I’ll count your vote for a full build series. I would like to get a small printer as a second unit for small delicate stuff. Are you listening Elegoo? The big printer handles big jobs very well. There are bigger ones out there but 10” works with me.
Yes sir interested in Elegoo. Was leaning towards Mars 5 ultra since for the most part i would print small parts like engines and body kits. Rethinking a larger printer if I get into full body kits, in your last video you did print smaller parts which looked good so I think I can't go wrong with saturn 3.
Quick question have had good results with water washable resin?
@@Juan_Rivera835 yes the Saturn 3 from what I’ve read is the same as the 4 but without the self leveler. I appreciate the self leveler but it’s a pain to clean. If you can afford it the 4 ultra is a killer machine. I should have gotten that one but I’m happy with the one I bought.
Excellent! Very thorough James!
Depending on the model, I’ll print at an angle somewhere between 15-20° along the Y axis, and maybe another 4° along the X. The size of the car will dictate how much of an angle you’ll need to tilt, and of course, it’ll depend on the plate size.
I’m not a fan of printing flat at all. A lot of cars have trim at the bottom of the rockers, and I’ve seen folks try to print those flat. Immediately I can see where the trim along with the rocker was warped along with a roof that printed not so stellar.
The Mustang has an advantage however as Andrey designed that area to be extra thick due to its styling.
Thanks for the great video…..I’ll be posting this on FB to get the word out. ✌🏾
Thanks for your insight Bill. I’m thinking that maybe I’ll try a flat print with only a tilt. That way it’ll keep the body low on supports but yet still keep an angle to avoid print lines. Hmmm, time for another experiment 😁
@@ScaleModelExperiment Well, printing flat and the success of that can be machine dependent too. The Mini 4K I have doesn’t do as well printing clear parts flat for example as well as the Mighty 8K.
The clear resin in particular gets a “buildup” of hardened resin right where the supports meet the object, and it can be tough as nails to get them off. Raising the default print height helps…..around 7-8mm’s as opposed to the default 5mm’s.
The clear has different properties though, so each time it can print a bit differently than before…..printers can and do have a mind of their own some days! ☺️
@@plastiksurgeon9129 I’ll make up a batch of clear parts to print and give it a shot. Thanks again Bill 😎
You have really helped me decide to postpone my SLA 3D project because miniatures with lots of details don’t really show flat surfaces where print lines appear.
Do you have any suggestion for other resin printers that show MINIMAL print lines?
My first machine was a 4k Anycubic mono x2. It taught me the basics but now that I have a 12k Elegoo machine it is near perfect with good angles and high resolution. Could I tweak it a little more? Yes I could, but time isn’t what I have a lot of… I recommend the highest resolution printer and largest size print bed that you can afford. Just remember that if you go cheap in the beginning you’ll always wish you spent a little more for a better printer. Mine was $380.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I agree with you, but do you think according to your research and experience that today’s SLA or should I say mSLA resin printers (Saturn 3/4 Ultra, Anycubic Mono M7 Pro, HeyGears Reflex RS) can achieve injection-molds-like results in the hands of a professional?
@popilirol there will always be a pretty side and an ugly side to a 3d printed part. Same with a production kit, both sides are nice but there will be a seam down the middle. If angled well you can minimize print lines to something that can be whisked away with sandpaper quickly. The variety is what I enjoy with the 3d prints. Anyone can go buy a Mustang kit but you have to print a Hoonicorn.
First time finding you. I just printed my first print yesterday. I would love to see printing transparent Windows. And how do you get them to fit. And see the rest of the build.
You COULD print a window in clear resin, spend the rest of your life polishing all of the support marks off of it to a perfect clear part or… print a buck and vacuum form some clear windows. Check the final video I posted today where I show the process.
That is so amazing! I'd like to see a whole build too! Man, if anyone could 3d print a version of my 68 Fairlane 2 door hardtop, I'd have to buy one! Lol. Thank you, James👍
Thanks for watching Fordman, the community has spoken that they want to see the whole build. I checked and didn’t see any files available for a 68 Fairlane. 😞
Thanks for looking. Maybe one day there'll be one!🤞In 2022 I bought a resin 68 Torino body and never got it. Now the site is all different, dealing with motorcycles. I've given up on ever getting it.
Sorry to hear that bud.
Print the same at 45 angle and 0,2 mm layer, it have amazing quality !!!!
The only problem with such a high angle is you risk the Z shift. I had a faint line at 13 degrees from the print moving ever so slightly. Sure I could put heavier supports but then it makes more work in post prep. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment.
@@ScaleModelExperiment yea u wright. try it and u will be surprised )
Can you print clear for damaged or missing windshields and produce better detailed headlamps. Great show to
explain the differences in positioning the bodies.
Hi Poppa, I’m putting together a video for this weekend about printing clear parts. I think once you see how they come out you’ll know your answer. Thanks for watching and leaving me a comment.
I'd love to see the clear part printing please!
Thanks for watching 👍 we will see what the community wants to see for a follow up video.
Yes the clear would be nice
Can you make replacement windshields?
@thestig1899 Hi Stig, printing with clear resin is difficult. Reason is it is still a series of printed lines and you can see through the resin and all of the lines. In order for something to be translucent it has to be smooth. Something like a headlight or tail light is easy to polish the lines but a windshield is difficult to get perfect. The answer is vacuum forming. I have not tried it yet but will be soon.
@NADA-kv7ez hi Nada, thanks for the tip. I’ll try it out on a print and see what happens.
for a more artistic project gradiated lines of color in a clear@@ScaleModelExperiment
Great tutorials. Whatever you do will be good!
Thanks James! I appreciate your support 👍
Awesome video James. I started 3D printing 4 months ago. Hay what is a 70 year old to do right? I have 3 of his files and have not tried bodys yet so I would like to see the whole process as it were printing it. So 13 degrees both directions, got it. 👍
Thanks again James!
LLAP 🖖
Hi Bruce, yes 13-20 degrees is what I go with. More importantly look for parallel and perpendicular surfaces. If you can minimize those you’re golden.
Just curious, what does the program cost for that Mustang? And is it yours forever, or a one time print and done, Was looking for a 1963 Chevrolet Impala 4 door to print, i know they make a 63 station wagon, great video...
Hi CC, the file pack costs $20 and it is mine forever to print as many times as I want. They only ask that you don’t sell the files or sell the printed items. Good luck finding your 63 wagon, that’s an odd one.
Thank you so much for sharing all this information with us! Im hoping to get into printing myself soon, did I miss which printer you are using?
Hi SMF, I currently use a Elegoo Saturn 4 (not ultra) 12k machine. I recommend this printer for ease of use.
@@ScaleModelExperiment got ya I'll take a look at it, I saw you have a few more videos/reviews about 3d printing I'll have to make some time to watch. Again thanks so much for the info.
@scalemodelfrenzy of course!
Im in for finishing the build. You can't leave us hangin like that!!🤣
haha, I just wanted to make sure! Thanks for watching 👍
Is that angle that you're putting the car at, what you calculated or just from some tests? There is actually an equation that you can do according to pixels that will tell you the best angle for your printer. Which makes the layer lines even less noticeable. Also, I know you removed some supports but you still do not need that many. You can get rid of half the supports that you have. I also print Bodies in 1/25 and 1/32 for slot cars. In saying that I am glad that you're doing a video like this. People think that it is hard and its actually really easy. SLA printers have come along way in the past few years, so they are much easier to use.
Hi Danny, yes that angle is near 45 degrees. The problem I am having is when the print gets too high into the air I get a z shift somewhere on the print. I can sand off layer lines but a z shift is a deal killer for me. After sanding there is a bump where that line was. Therefore I’m trying to keep the prints low and well supported so they are rock solid.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I understand. I’ve had Z shift but seems to be at random and for no specific reason at all. What is weird though, I’ve printed tall figures that were 10inches plus and not had that issue. Wondering if it’s because of the angle and weight? I normally print flat to keep print time down and use very little supports. I like your content, I will be continuing to tune in.
@dannywiley4072 I’ll keep trying different things to eliminate the z shift. When I figure it out I’ll do a video.
That’s super cool. The one you didn’t choose would make a really cool slot car
Hi David, thanks for watching! I do have plans for the not so smooth version. Stay tuned👍
I recently got a Saturn 4 Ultra but I'm in so far over my head I don't really know how to use it effectively. The tilting vat I am told means that sadly, all the videos about how to angle prints are useless for me because of the way the fep peels away differently. It's been tough to figure out, not much success yet.
I don’t know for sure because I don’t have the ultra (yet.. are you listening Elegoo?) but I would angle and tilt just like I did and you should get the same results just faster.
Very nice video. I would like too see 3d printing of clear parts. Regards from Norway
Welcome to the channel Kleven 😁 I published a video on clear parts printing a few days ago. Check in the resin printing playlist.
ua-cam.com/play/PLC8Xkw_Cb3kVydqd4jNfvbzg0bKfMOZgI.html&si=xVYKRqxQEC7oQUjS
I would love to see the entire process from beginning to end.
I agree, that would be a great video. When you say entire process you mean slicing, printing, prepping, painting, polishing, assembly all in 30 mins? And hour? How long is too long?
@@ScaleModelExperiment Just do a series of 10-15 mins long for each video. I like long videos but according to what I have seen with some of my videos most people do not. I watch UA-cam like it is Tv lol.
@dannywiley4072 I don’t watch tv, I only watch UA-cam. So if I see A4 or Mokei post a video I’ll make time to watch it on the TV instead of phone. I don’t mind watching for an hour if the content is 👍
@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m with you for sure. An hour long video or more is great. Live builds are great too. I haven’t tried that myself yet.
@dannywiley4072 that’s a good idea too Danny, I’ll consider it.
Programming for each part ? That's too cool 😊
Yes, Andrey the designer of the files did a wonderful job with this kit. I built it in further episodes if you have time to watch the videos.
@ScaleModelExperiment Yes
About layer texture. Search about arctan angle orientation.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Printing clear parts would be interesting, as well as seeing the difference in printing the whole engine, or in pieces. I also would be curious about setup of everything, dealing with resin, etc.
Thanks for watching Scott and leaving me a comment. It’s looking like the community wants to see this project completely printed and built.
Would it be possible for you to print a seated driver figure ? or might have to be in two pieces but still conform to the seat and assembled after painting. Sooo many cars sooo few drivers...................cheers eh!
Hi Gordon, figure painting is a whole different level that I haven’t tried yet. Maybe…
Great stuff...so how do you save them into your computer? And how do you transfer them into the printer?
Just curious, I would like to get a 2d printer but now sure how that works.
Hi Marcelo, I save them on a flash drive that plugs into the printer. Once finished printing I delete that file from the disk.
@@ScaleModelExperiment
Oh ok..and do you have to delete the file every time?
@@marsgarage8217 yes, or your memory stick will fill up with old files.
@@ScaleModelExperiment
I'm thinking on getting one, so hopefully I can get some 3d print stuff lol..not sure about full kits like you, but engines and rims and tires would be a nice start.
@marsgarage8217 to help your shopping, if you don’t need to print bodies you can get by with less than a 9” print screen. Otherwise get the 9 or 10” for bodies.
Great job. I've been looking at this model to buy and print so this is good.
Print both the full engine and in pieces so you know how to fit it all inside the engine bay. I suggest replacing the drive shafts with styrene rod as well. They were a little short.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks. I can modify the .stl files for the drive shafts as needed so that shouldn't be a problem.
How do you deal with long slender parts, like exhaust pipes and the like?
Those are tough. You have to sacrifice one side of the pipes for connectors to properly support them.
I think it would be good to see you print using a resin mix. I mix mine to avoid it being so brittle. I use Tenacious D to make it more flexible. Look forward to hearing your reply.
I just reviewed a resin from Nova3D, their water washable tough grey. It had flex to it after curing. I think it would work well for printing body kits so the parts could be flexed into position easier.
My Saturn plus is great, but my prints are sticking to the build plate, to the point they are breaking trying to get them to come loose. Any help would be great!
Check your bottom exposure time. It may be too long. Another thing may be cold resin.
I'd enjoy videos helping me decide whether an STL file available for sale online is actually printable, and is actually of sufficient quality to download. What should I look for in the screenshots of a file. I'm not looking for reviews of individual files, but how you know you've found one you can use.
That’s a great question. I’d rather not make a video because I don’t want to sway someone away from someone’s files. But, I like to look for evidence of individual pieces and not just a whole interior in 1 piece or the body with molded in headlights and taillights and windows. Once I find a designer I like I usually stick with them. I can recommend Andrey, Olivizzle, Bayzoff, 3DVM, Slowlys, and Motobas right off the top of my head.
what product do you use to wash your resin prints?
I use a water wash resin so just plain tap water with a splash of dollar store degreaser LA Awesome. It seems to clean pretty well.
@@ScaleModelExperiment many thanks for your response, great videos
@darrenmay2010 thanks for your support Darren👍
Will the roof not sink in high heat. Some pla+ model suffered deformation in summer
I don’t store my built cars in direct sunlight and the model room is temperature controlled. I have not seen any warpage in any of my prints.
Nice 👍
Like to have one of those
Those decals are nice too
Hi Stig, it is a good file set and the decals are good too.
Is there any way to print the bodies thinner to better represent the thickness of the real body panels?
Hi, unfortunately you’ll risk warpage when you go thin panels. You’re better to print them thick so they keep crisp lines.
I printed mine using a cut method. I cut the rear off just below the window line, so I could re join it with glue and putty along that line & tilted it back at about 13 degrees
Really love to see whole kit and build sorry to be awkward but in memory of ken block maybe
Thanks for watching, I’ve posted the first episode of the Ken Block build already and working on the second now. 👍
I noticed you were pulling out the supports with your bare hands after the wash. I thought you shouldn't handle resin with your bare hands until its been cured or was I mistaken?
You are absolutely correct and I am an idiot for handling uncured resin. Always wear gloves until the resin is cured.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Gotcha thanks! Was almost excited that I can be less careful
@ haha, don’t be an idiot like me.😂
They look good! In my opinion, print the rest of the parts and build it. I'd like to see the outcome.
Thanks for watching, the majority of the community seems to want me to print the rest of the kit and build it.
Does the software come with the printer? I couldn't tell on amazon
Hi August, yes it comes on the flash drive. You can also download ChituBox directly from their website.
Which cheaper resin will tolerate summer temperature please. I print 1/18 scale
What temperature are your prints exposed to in the summer? 1/18 is big, I can see your problem.
How do you fabricate the clear parts for these self-printed resin bodies?
The headlights and tail lights can be printed in clear resin. The windows need to be vacuum formed. I’ll do a video soon on how to do it.
Can you change the scale sizes when you print these?
Hi Kenny, yes you can! When you purchase the file pack you are given a choice of what scale. Smallest 1/64 to 1/8 scale.
@@ScaleModelExperiment thanks for your reply I build 1/35th scale armour & there’s never any cars for that scale or even 1/32nd which is near enough. That’s made my day
@kennysmart8273 my old eyes wouldn’t be able to build that small. Just sayin!
New sub i want to see full build , Mad Max and weather other print suggestion , no need to sand body then . And 2 versions
Welcome to the channel Mike! Thanks for the sub. I have plans for the other body but I won’t show it till the very end. It’ll be a suprise.
Good day, do you take orders as well for printing cars like these?
I’m sorry I do not. I still work a 9-5 plus UA-cam and build models. Printing as a business would wreck me😁
Thanks. Great for us getting into this area of modeling.
Hi Gary, thanks for watching. It is a great hobby to get into. Realize that it is not a safe hobby and you must be careful and thoughtful when using chemicals. I’m going to be doing a video on safety very soon.
Could you print an air stream camper
I could if someone made the files. I don’t do design work.
Can this printer fit 1/18 scale body?
I think it could print a 1/18 scale body. It might be at 90 degrees or close to it standing up though. Which of course would lead to bad print lines. I’ve seen bigger 15” printers but they are expensive.
It came out very sharp and crisp!
Thanks so much for watching Dvdw
With 3d printing there will ALWAYS be print lines and suttle z shift lines. It's just part of printing. But as someone earlier said, it you print slower print lines and z shift lines are less. As some understand, quality takes longer. Just my 2.71 cents. 😊
Thank you Don! I appreciate your input to the conversation.
As downloaded, what is the Hoonicorn scaled at ? Hopefully it’s 1/25 scale 😀. Otherwise that is a LOT of parts to rescale in the slicer 😱😱
Andrey provides 11 sizes in the download from 1/43 to 1/8. The detail at 1/25 is so amazing I can’t imagine it in small scale! 1/8 would be difficult to print without an industrial size machine.
Curious to know what resin you use?
Elegoo and Nova3D have been sending me samples lately. I really like Elegoo’s 8k resins. Vanilla colored is my favorite so far but I haven’t tried the smoke grey yet. My go to resin prior to Elegoo was Anycubic water wash. They all have their strengths. I’ll do a video comparing all of them soon.
Another Great video James. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching Mike, good luck with fixing your printers.
Are you using water or alcohol in the washer?
I use water with a degreaser LA awesome that I buy at the dollar store. I use a water wash resin so it cleans it easily. I have tried Elegoo’s resin detergent on their ABS resin and it works amazingly well. But it’s $50/bottle.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Soinds good ! great videos and very helpful ! Thank You !
My pleasure Martin! Thanks for watching👍
I'd love to see the full thing. Gave a sub.
Welcome to the channel, I hope that you enjoy my style of videos. I appreciate your support👍
Can you make one on chassis’s and frames
That’s an interesting request. I’ll keep it in mind. What are you thinking? Like tube frames or big flat ones?
@@ScaleModelExperiment yea and like regular square frames or notched frames always have trouble getting them to print. Your content is amazing by the way sat up all night watching just bought the same printer lol very informative looking forward to more videos
@neikcoeharris6036 ok, I get you. I’ll plan on doing a chassis video. It should be a challenge to get it angled and supported without too much prep required afterwards.
Can you reuse the extra resin?
Unfortunately no, it’s wasted.
Chassis please!
Individual parts, see how they fit after printing,
Just a though.
Ohh, that’s a good one Terry! I’m interested to see that as well. Let’s see if more people want to see that as well.
What resin are you using here?
I used Elegoo 8k space grey water washable resin to print the bodies.
Are you using standard resin or something else?
Hello Lunar, I prefer to use Water washable resin but have used ABS standard resin with good results as well. My favorite is Elegoo 8k water washable resin line.
Are u selling any parts if so I'm looking for sum wheels?
Sorry no, I don’t sell prints. I only print for myself. Check icemancollections.com
I'd love to see the whole build
Thanks for watching Sheldon, the majority of the community has made the decision that I’ll be building the Hoonicorn😁
Love to see some Dirt Latemodel bodies! Or some old camaro oval cars!
Hi Jim, not really my thing but maybe I’ll find something to print for the channel. Thanks for watching👍
Could you have made the print lines finer?
Yes, I could have set the resolution for .01, it would have taken twice as long to print but they would still be there just finer. Angling and tilting is the key to smooth prints. I’m learning more as I go. When I perfect it I’ll shoot more video.
Rotate the x,y and z to prevent panels facing the x, 45 degrees or y axis. The best spot for printing using anti aliasing is found by printing a sphere and observing the best angles on it. turns out the inbetween angle of 45 degrees is the best so x22.5, y22.5, z 22.5.
That makes perfect sense. Thank you!
I'd like to see the rest of the build
You’re in luck, I posted the first episode of the build last weekend. The interior is done 👍
Awesome video
Thank you Travis 😎
How much would it cost me to have someone print me a 58 Chevy Apache short bed?
check eBay. I suspect between $80-$110.
@@ScaleModelExperiment cool thx for letting me know 👍
check your fep for a crease, good chance thats why your getting that line in your print.
You’re absolutely correct. When I drained the vat to change to clear resin in noticed some marks in the FEP. That would have caused the marks on the tops of both cars.
@@ScaleModelExperiment I'm new to Resin printing, what is FEP?
@@melvilib the FEP is the clear film that is between the liquid resin and the screen that displays the image to be printed. A crease in the FEP will show in the print.
@@ScaleModelExperiment Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense now. If it is anything like plastic screen protectors for phones, then it woyld be easy to get that uneven or trap dust.