This was fun to watch you go through all of the noob mistakes and head scratches I went through when I jumped into 3d printing. Couple things to make you aware of, petg absorbs some water so will need to dry it to eliminate some of the stringing and adjust the retraction distance as you stated PLA's don't really absorb much water so you won't see a big improvement drying it. PLA and PLA+ will be weaker if printed too hot or cold. So don't cook the filament even if it looks better.
@@matthewtaylor3301 I don't think that's true undried PETG is basically a waste of time to try to print with. It is going to be a stringy mess, PLA on the other hand doesn't need to be dried every single time you print with it. Sure you may get a little stringing but nothing in comparison to PETG or Nylons. Just dried some PLA for around 4 hours and it printed perfect! PETG to print as good usually requires at least 12 hours and closer to 24 hours for zero stringing and if you're using clear PETG then the more dry the better!
Fantastic video! I really appreciate the fact that you took us along from the beginning and went through all the small steps that are rarely included in such tutorials. Your questions about undocumented setup requirements, print quality differences, the Slicer, nozzle temps, file types and transfers, etc. are exactly the kinds of things that get skipped. Thanks very much!!
I 3D printed masters for the short plastic shells and made a silicone mold to cast projectiles. I’ve gotten good results making gas initiated spin projectiles at 2.5 oz over 50 gr by volume of pyrodex ffg roughly 300 yd launch distance with decent accuracy
In my entire bloody internet life i have never watched a UA-cam video this long and i finish it from beginning to end without skipping some points, its been fun and educative now to someone like me who fall in love with 3D printing I'm likely to re-watch this over and over, great work buddy thumbs up
WOW!! a 2hr video. This is perfect timing for me. I built a 7 SAUM on a long action and need to make wedges for the front of my mags to prevent the cartridges sliding forward under recoil. My son is getting into CAD and wants to do the drawings for me. This is PERFECT. Johnny for the win, again! Thanks!
Automatic bed leveling is nice but it is a good idea to manual level the bed first then run the auto level second. Having it mechanically closer to true means less work for the auto level adjustments that happen in software. The less compensation movements that need to happen in order to stay true to the bed the better. It will result in a better print quality. Also having the limit switch installed anyway is a good safeguard even if it is set up a bit lower than normal on the machine.
Johnny's Printing Bench. Hehehe. Good stuff, man. Printing is awesome. I've designed stuff and printed it myself when I couldn't find it in stock anywhere.
I’ve got a prusa mk3s, ender 3 pro, and an ender 3 s1. I’ve had my prusa the longest and I got my s1 about two weeks ago. So far, the S1 is my favorite of the three. Happy printing!
I got my first printer on Father’s Day of this year. The kobra 2 neo, worked right out of the box after assembly. I stare at it for long periods of time while it’s going. So satisfying to watch
When you put the "Don't blow your face off" script" on the monitor holder I had to show my wife! She says that out loud ever time I day I'm watching a new JRB video! You did a great job with this 3D video!
I redesigned and printed my own primer catch for my rock chucker and a couple reloading trays so far because I couldn’t find the files of ones I actually like the look of. Very satisfying to use and make your own tools or other functional items.
this was really fun to watch a first time owner work through the same things all of us have in the past. good stuff, i hope you get your moneys worth of fun and work from it.
I print PETG lowers all the time. The key to clean prints with PETG is it needs slightly more retraction distance and a slightly higher extrusion multiplier. I run most PETG around 238c and I bumped up my retraction a few 10ths. This along with a 1.1 extraction multiplier helps account for the PETG viscosity increase over PLA. Give it a shot and see what you get.
If you go with a Biqu H2, you can lower retractions on PETG to around .32mm and around 20mm/s and have almost no blobs or stringing. The H2 is insanely good for it.
I hated PETG back when I first got my printer. I just bought some again after I realized I have modded my Ender-3 V2 so much it's really not the same printer anymore, nor am I the same operator. I have high hopes for it now that I can successfully print nylon, ABS, ASA, HIPS, and PC. PETG should be a breeze.
Thank you so much for putting this video together for us. I'm sure there's ton of us who wanted to get into it, who know just enough but not enough and you made it look so simple, mistakes and all. I just appreciate not only the hours going into this video, the days you spent learning, filming, printing and sharing with us. I ordered the ghost gunner 3, 6-8 months ago still on back order. While waiting I should have ordered one of these and it might have scratched that itch, for a much cheaper price too. Thanks again for all you do, keep it up and don't blow your face off!
Coming from an Ender 5 user, the time it took to do your first print blew my mind away!!! I guess the auto levelling hardware and software has really improved and looks great!!! Congrats on your first print!
I started with an i3 kit. We have come a long way since 3d printing with popsicle sticks haven't we :) the struggles in the beginning are what make you good at the task.
@@felurianmasters4369 I agree. I spent crazy time with my first 3D printer. When I bought my last one I was printing some of my best prints in a couple hours from opening the package
So one thing to remember is that the spring steel bed plate is consumable. Plan on replacing it sooner than you think. Buy one now so when something chips or gouges, you have a bed on hand.
I have 2 x 3 pro. I love em. 4 years and I’m only now just having to really “work” on it. The upgrades and prints will almost make it a V2. I’m now wanting a Bambu A1 for my “shop”. I never printed and thought why not. I weld and other stuff so this is up my alley as I get older.
It was "a little bit loud" when you first fired it up because you jacked the Z-axis to the top of its range. Normal operation is to lift about 12mm, then start the home/leveling process. You already had it as high as it could lift, so the noise you got was the steppers trying to do the initial lift, but bashing against the limit of its travel. Harmless if it's only a once-in-a-while thing, but repeatedly doing that is a good way to eventually break something. As far as the nozzle temp adjustment, that's built into the sliced model as part of the slicing process - If you diddle the temp "early" on the printer, the setting in the .gcode file that the slicer produces will over-ride what you set the temp to. In general, you set the temp to be used at the time you slice your model. (Ditto for the plate temp) The line under the bunny's eyes makes me think you've got some "gunk" (That's a highly scientific term - don't throw it around lightly! :) ) on the leadscrews that drive your Z axis that's interfering with smooth motion - That'd be the first place I'd check. As far as slicers go, do yourself a favor and get away from the "Creality Slicer" - Google up "Ultimaker Cura" - It's the same (but newer version) program, but it doesn't have Creality's grafitti on it. I'm not 100% certain, since I don't use it, but I *BELIEVE* the Prusa Slicer is another "rebranding" of Cura - Cura is open source, so it's easy for anybody to put their "vanity-turds" into it and call it theirs. If you're capable of reloading ammo, you should have little trouble figuring things out by "fiddling with this, twiddling that, and messing with the other"
PrusaSlicer is a completely different slicer. It produces different G-code and has a very different UI. Personally, I prefer Prusaslicer but each has its strengths and weaknesses. Cura has a plugin interface which means there are a load of extra gadgets you can get (like different support structures etc) whereas Prusaslicer doesn't, but I find it generally more solid than Cura. I think getting to know both would be a good move in the long run, as one might be better than another for particular prints, but at the moment I find the Cura UI a bit fiddly and hard to find stuff. Regarding Creality slicer - yea, you should ignore it and use the "mainstream" version of Cura.
@@IanSlothieRolfe Like I said, I don't use prusaslicer, so wasn't sure. Seemed to me I'd caught talk that said it was Cura-based, but if it's not, I guess it's not! :) I've also been led to believe that if it's Cura-based, it's heavily customized for the Prusa printers. Either way, one or the other is likely to take care of most, if not all slicing needs.
Ohhhhhhh man... This is my favorite marrying of hobbies coming together in my favorite channel. I've been blown away at what 3d printing has done for the reloading community as its turned access to case feeders and collators from $1000+ to $100+
This was an excellent experience thank you. I think it really gave me an idea of what to expect and helped me avoid issues I didn't even know I was going to have.
I started watching your video just after building and calibrating my Ender3 S1. I had much the same experience. Mine came with a glass bed and I found it to be a pain so I just went with the usual one and have had no problem getting prints off it so far. I just let it cool right down and there's not too much problem. I discovered that using Blender (which is free) is good for design. There's also a built in plugin called 3D Print Toolbox which scans your build and shows any errors in the mesh such as gaps and can repair them. You have to enable the plugin in Preferences for it to show up. Thanks for your informative and entertaining video!
When you went to print the cat i got so excited. My first print on my ender 3 was the dog. It turned out way above expectations. Ive had great luck w inland filament. You will get into the groove and get it figured out. Its fun to have the little plastic spewing robot doing your bidding while your away.
Watching the tinkercad segment brought back nightmares for me. I still say sketchup is under rated. You draw what you want, extrude as needed and you're done. Maybe it just because I've been using it for 15 years but all the other cad programs that were advised were a total PITA
Excellent video ! This is very unique as you're documenting every little idiosyncrasy that us newbies will encounter & are largely overlooked by the more expert reviewers with prior expertise. First class job there. Thank you. 🇬🇧
I'm glad you mentioned this in your 2022 year in review video. I didn't know you did this one. I've been on the fence for 3D printing and you are just the guy I needed to help me jump in. I can't believe the amount of content you have in this one video. It's amazing. Thank you
I've been thinking about doing this for quite a while and just never pulled the trigger on it, so to speak. I just did it but went the other direction from you. I ordered a Prusa MK3S+. It's going to take about 5-weeks before it gets here not to mention the nuclear price. After doing a bunch of research the Prusa looks like the best fit.
I know this sounds weird but using glue on your build plate will help you get your parts off. I just got a X1C and it has a cool build plate that I almost could not get my prints off of. Putting glue on it helped get my prints off. I started on a Creality printer the CR -10 in 2016. Welcome and you’re doing great!!!
Few tips you or someone else might find helpful. In Cura you can set the areas you don’t want supports. It’s an option on the left hand side of the screen. The settings on the right in Cura are just a fraction of what the slicer is capable of. Click three lines next to “search settings” in that menu. You’ll find better options for just about everything, including supports. Also those spikes on your test towers are designed to be snapped off by hand so you can ‘feel’ the strength of the layer adhesion. Keep your first prints you think look really good. If you feel your printer is screwing up then reprint the same file and compare to the original to see if there is actually a problem.
I can't believe I just watched a 2 hour video. Love it. Had some good information in there. I'm thinking of jumping in to 3D printing and this video was very helpful.
Great vid, I just thought about getting into 3d printing the other day and found you also just got into it. Keep us updated on how it’s going. I’m looking at v2 printer.
This was really interesting to see your take on getting started with 3d-printing. I think you are doing a great job and are learning fast. You have lot's of good ideas.. Have been 3d-printing for three years now with my ender 3.. Designed and printed lots of stuff for reloading and additions for weapons. It is really great to have a 3d-printer around. Started out with tinkercar, but moved on to onshape, and have had good luck with that. Using Cura as slicer
you are definitely right that the v2 would have been better because doing a few upgrades will let you get to know your printer better plus there is a huge community behind the enders.
I was a noob a few months ago and I've came a long way. Hopefully you've figured out the temperature towers and all that since this video. Every time I get a new role of filament I haven't tried before I do a temp tower to find the perfect temp for the filament.
I just got my 3d printer the other week. First one. I've avoided it, because I am a bit obsessive and this is a rabbit hole that is deep. But my business finally demanded one. Went with a resin printer instead of filament because it's for rapid prototyping.
Don't stress over the print surface. The OEM surface is crap. There are loads of different and good spring steel print surfaces available on Amazon. My favourite is the dual side smooth-powder coated PEI. Get an inexpensive heat gun to quickly and easily deal with fine stringing on a finished prints. Being able to model your own parts is the key to 3D printing. It allows you to make anything you want. Get some TPU95 filament. It is one of my favourites to work with. TPU is somewhat flexible and is very strong. Printed with thick walls and high infill it produces parts that are only slightly flexible but very resistant to breakage due to their ability to flex rather than fracture, like PLA does. TPU is also super easy to print and sticks well to the print surface. Just need to adjust print speeds and combing to minimize stringing.
the best cheapest print surface is a 1/16inch (1.5mm) thick sheet of G10/FR4/Garolite. If you can find it that is. (also requires clips or some way to secure though)
@@xXKisskerXx He can order it from McMaster Carr. If he can reload ammo, he can make straight and accurate cuts(like glass, you score it with a craft knife then snap it) in fiberglass and sand the cut edges while taking sufficient precautions to not kill himself.
this printer is a good one. you picked right. cept maybe that build plate. you might want to get a coated glass bed. they release super easy once cool.
God...this is awesome...I also reload and use The hornady AP LnL....and like a person that wants more headaches have been wanting to get into the 3D side of things....but wanted to find someone to walk me through is ...well your video is about as close as I could ever get....thanks so much this journey....
Even at a year old this video was interesting! When you first started doing the setup and leveling/Z-offset, you should have had the bed and nozzel at the operating temp (expansion of heated parts), but you probably know that by now. LOL!! The manual should reflect that but doesn't. I've got 2 older Ender 3 v2 printers and did the BL touch & CL Touch upgrades on them. The self leveling helps alot and as I remember I think that was in the upgrade manual (too long ago). When setup is right and with the slicer tweaked the prints come out pretty good. Thank you for the video.
Don’t know if others have already stated, but a glass bed and hairspray is all I use in a production setting with many Ender 3’s. I threw that damn mat in a box in the basement day1. If you want some free replacements, I have all them in a box somewhere.
A Great video, thanks for taking the time to film it and thanks for your honesty. My first printer is due to be delivered in the next few days. Meanwhile I’ve been checking out Tinkercad. Yes, my skills are on a par with your first attempts. You’ve given me the confidence to persevere. You’ve covered so many good points, which will definitely help me. Thanks from across the pond 🇬🇧
Legit; we're right in the middle of the Cambrian Explosion for 3D printing. So many printers and materials to choose from, and so many ways to customize them to one's own specific needs and preferences for aesthetics.
For adhesion on my CR-10S I have the very flexible magnetic build surface so it is very easy to remove, just peel the item off even with the first layer squished. On the ender 3v2 I have the hard plate. I adjust it up until it is a fine bead and doesn't stick much. A light layer of glue stick holds it well and is fairly easy to get parts to release. Wide blue painters tape protects the surface to prevent buildup of PLA and messing surface finish of subsequent prints. Just plan on buying more of those build plates because you will eventually trash them
I bet a ton of people like me would love to see this long video be edited to a video where you go over the important highlights. The video is quite a mouthful. Also this is my first encounter. I promise I will watch if you make the cut down video!
I use a plastic razor blade with mine. Safe for the bed and plenty of leverage to get the bits off. Also, get the bed warm and use a paper towel with rubbing alcohol to clean off the pla remains. It's good to do anyway to remove oil from your hands too.
Good luck brother started this same process November of last year finally today I can pretty much slice and print anything first try. Print you a calibration block and check it with a caliper and watch a video on esteps for your printer make sure it’s feeding close to exact as possible will make when you or printing multiple joining parts they will be more consistent to the model.
Who would have thought watching your printer was more fascinating than television? I sit in my print room and stare at the thing for several minutes with short breaks to do meaningful things.
Neat! I bought my first 3d printer (Ender 3 v2) last year or something, but hadn't set it up until a month ago. Didn't have an automatic bed leveler so it took me like a week to figure out how to get consistent prints, but once ya get it down it's tons of fun. Oh! Tip: It's recommended you have good ventilation. With base PLA some say it's 100% fine indoors and others say its not, but for most other filament people agree it isn't healthy. Things like ABS can offgas stuff. I also read some filaments throw off stuff that can be seriously harmful to pet birds and other really tiny delicate pets - like kill 'em harmful.
Thank you for this! 😊 I am waiting for my Ender-3 S1 to get delivered in the mail any day now! I am beyond excited, as that will be my first printer too! You got a follow, have an awesome day! 🙂
I can’t wait to watch your 3-D printing videos. You know Shannon you’re really selling yourself short by mostly doing guns and ammo videos and chicken videos now which I really like. I turned on my elderly parents to your chicken videos and they just love them. They say you got a very relaxed personality very interesting guy to watch. I love the shooting videos but that man is tough to make it on UA-cam in the shooting sports and reloading.
The differences in the retraction settings are because in Untimaker Cura you based your profile off of a standard Ender 3 which has a bowden tube extruder whereas your S1 has a direct drive extruder. Changing those settings to match the creality slicer settings was the right thing to do - direct drive extruders need much less retraction than bowden tube ones.
LOL. I started with an Ender 3 and have made so many upgrades that I have easily doubled the cost of the original build. I am running full 3-axis linear rails, a BL-Touch and a custom direct drive using an EZR-Struder. Also upgraded to a Touch Screen and bigger main board.
My son-in-law has 3-D printed a few things for me. I hunt with a Ruger No.1 35 rem. and was looking for a way to have a couple extra rounds handy for follow-up shots without carrying them between my fingers. I gave him the cartridge dimension and a drawing. I had some small rare earth magnets that I had installed in the holders. They just stick to the side of the action and have to rounds ready to go. Have fun with it, you can make some interesting items.
I use a glass bed surface and a sugar solution as an adhesion agent. a tablespoon of sugar in 50 - 100 ml of water with a drop of dishwash liquid to aid wetting of the bed surface.A straight sugar solution will tend to form beads, the soap prevents that. You can experiment to arrive at the best dilution. Wipe onto the bed surface with a piece of sponge and allow to dry as the bed preheats. It's dry when it is not very tacky to the touch. When the bed cools the sugar coat releases automatically due to differential expansion cracking the dry sugar film. Clean the bed surface under running water , recoat and continue printing. This should work on your bed surface too.
I just recently dusted off my own Ender 3 (v2) to try and nail down printing 35mm miniatures for DnD and damn is it frustrating. Long print times are the norm with FDM tough. What you can do to speed things up on bigger/less detailed prints is use a bigger nozzle (0.6 or 0.8mm), increase the print speed from 50 to 100mm/s (in the slicer software), reduce infill percentage, try to avoid supports where possible, reduce the number of walls from 3 to 2.
@@joshjones5172 Not happy but satisfied. I have some overheating issues currently because of failing fans, but once I get those replaced I am confident in archieving playworthy minis without the hassle of SLA postprocessing and having a dedicated second machine.
Love your channel, I’m a new reloader and when I was just starting out finding your channel was the best thing I could’ve done I’ve learned so much thanks for doing what you do. Please do a video talking about improved cartridges the 223 A.I. Specifically, somthing I just learned of today! Thanks again.
I have to say, this is very cool to watch! I've been 3D printing for three years already, and I was lucky enough to have some very knowledgeable friends to help me. Watching you set up on your own without help is very entertaining (and as much as the Ender is giving you headaches, I have to say, that was a surprisingly headache-free setup). I've scratch-built my two printers, and none of them were up and printing in a couple of hours. ;)
Just picked up the Anycubic Vyper myself. Been trying out a few items from Thingiverse. Looking forward to getting into the CAD side and coming up with some of my own designs.
I have an ender 3 pro. Paid $240 in September to make parts for myself and sell on eBay. I’ve paid for the entire printer and everything I have invested into the printer at this point from selling parts on eBay. I make mec reloading trays, rcbs uniflow funnel, caps, etc. all are my designs done in auto desk inventor.
you dont need the z-limit switch when using an automatic bed leveler. awsome to see you getting into 3d printing. I make a ton of stuff for reloading with my printers, I have (2) original ender 3 printers, a CR-10 V2, monoprice mini delta, and last but not least The Prusa mk3s+. when i heard you comment about the prusa you sounded just like i originally did. ultimately i should have bought the prusa first. i still use my other printers on occasion the ender 3's if i need to pump out multiple parts quickly the cr10v2 when i need to print something large format, the mini delta for printing on the go, but the prusa is definitely my work horse. it hands down smokes the other printers in terms of quality, and just puts out perfect print after perfect print. as far as filament choices i had a very hard time getting petg to print cleanly on my enders, the prusa i use petg exclusively and stick to pla with the enders. ive used the inland brand filaments they do ok, but i pretty much always use hatchbox brand filaments, prints always come out nicer with it. looks like creality really stepped up the design on the ender series with this new printer, i may have to check it out to add to my print farm.
I just discovered your channel. I wish I knew about it sooner! I would have suggested an Elegoo Neptune 2s if you were looking for very little tinkering on initial setup and promoting in general. I have been wanting to get a 3d printer for a while, but financial constraints at this time are preventing me from doing so. I have had my eye on several Ender's for a while until I discovered the Elegoo Neptune 2s. It appears to be an all around workhorse with some small hiccoughs in the beginning (i.e. you don't need to do an immense amount of upgrades right off of the bat). I hope you have great experiences with your Ender 3!
I have an ender 3 v2, same screen you have, and I've only been printing a month... I have already printed 4 complete glock mags using pla... they work great
a little help for you- prep the print plate. Put a little tiny bit of vaseline on a paper towel and give it a really thin light coat. That'll make the removal much easier. Keeps it from completely sticking.
This was fun to watch you go through all of the noob mistakes and head scratches I went through when I jumped into 3d printing. Couple things to make you aware of, petg absorbs some water so will need to dry it to eliminate some of the stringing and adjust the retraction distance as you stated PLA's don't really absorb much water so you won't see a big improvement drying it. PLA and PLA+ will be weaker if printed too hot or cold. So don't cook the filament even if it looks better.
PLA is surprisingly actually more hygroscopic than PETG
@@matthewtaylor3301 I don't think that's true undried PETG is basically a waste of time to try to print with. It is going to be a stringy mess, PLA on the other hand doesn't need to be dried every single time you print with it. Sure you may get a little stringing but nothing in comparison to PETG or Nylons. Just dried some PLA for around 4 hours and it printed perfect! PETG to print as good usually requires at least 12 hours and closer to 24 hours for zero stringing and if you're using clear PETG then the more dry the better!
Wellcome to the community of reloader 3D printer “Johnny”.. I’ve doing a lot of upgrades in my reloading room since I got the Ender 3 V2 last year!!
Fantastic video! I really appreciate the fact that you took us along from the beginning and went through all the small steps that are rarely included in such tutorials. Your questions about undocumented setup requirements, print quality differences, the Slicer, nozzle temps, file types and transfers, etc. are exactly the kinds of things that get skipped. Thanks very much!!
A fun project to get into is 37 mm launchers, as both the cases and projectiles can be printed. Meaning that all you need is 209 primers and pyrodex
That's brilliant!
Oh and you can print the 37mm launcher too.
The most popular one is called the thump n’ grind by “awcy?”
I 3D printed masters for the short plastic shells and made a silicone mold to cast projectiles. I’ve gotten good results making gas initiated spin projectiles at 2.5 oz over 50 gr by volume of pyrodex ffg roughly 300 yd launch distance with decent accuracy
It's so true. I've had a ton of fun designing and printing 37mm
@@alexmason1387 what are you filling the mold with ?
In my entire bloody internet life i have never watched a UA-cam video this long and i finish it from beginning to end without skipping some points, its been fun and educative now to someone like me who fall in love with 3D printing I'm likely to re-watch this over and over, great work buddy thumbs up
WOW!! a 2hr video. This is perfect timing for me. I built a 7 SAUM on a long action and need to make wedges for the front of my mags to prevent the cartridges sliding forward under recoil. My son is getting into CAD and wants to do the drawings for me. This is PERFECT. Johnny for the win, again! Thanks!
Automatic bed leveling is nice but it is a good idea to manual level the bed first then run the auto level second. Having it mechanically closer to true means less work for the auto level adjustments that happen in software. The less compensation movements that need to happen in order to stay true to the bed the better. It will result in a better print quality. Also having the limit switch installed anyway is a good safeguard even if it is set up a bit lower than normal on the machine.
As an Ender 5 user, I look forward to watching what you do with your printer and grow in capability and what you do with it.
Johnny's Printing Bench. Hehehe. Good stuff, man. Printing is awesome. I've designed stuff and printed it myself when I couldn't find it in stock anywhere.
I’ve got a prusa mk3s, ender 3 pro, and an ender 3 s1. I’ve had my prusa the longest and I got my s1 about two weeks ago. So far, the S1 is my favorite of the three. Happy printing!
What do you like about the S1 over the mk3? I was looking at adding another printer and was looking heavily at a mk3.
I got my first printer on Father’s Day of this year. The kobra 2 neo, worked right out of the box after assembly. I stare at it for long periods of time while it’s going. So satisfying to watch
When you put the "Don't blow your face off" script" on the monitor holder I had to show my wife! She says that out loud ever time I day I'm watching a new JRB video!
You did a great job with this 3D video!
I redesigned and printed my own primer catch for my rock chucker and a couple reloading trays so far because I couldn’t find the files of ones I actually like the look of. Very satisfying to use and make your own tools or other functional items.
this was really fun to watch a first time owner work through the same things all of us have in the past. good stuff, i hope you get your moneys worth of fun and work from it.
I print PETG lowers all the time. The key to clean prints with PETG is it needs slightly more retraction distance and a slightly higher extrusion multiplier. I run most PETG around 238c and I bumped up my retraction a few 10ths. This along with a 1.1 extraction multiplier helps account for the PETG viscosity increase over PLA.
Give it a shot and see what you get.
Petg prints a lot better when it is dry. Less stringing and oozing.
If you go with a Biqu H2, you can lower retractions on PETG to around .32mm and around 20mm/s and have almost no blobs or stringing. The H2 is insanely good for it.
I hated PETG back when I first got my printer. I just bought some again after I realized I have modded my Ender-3 V2 so much it's really not the same printer anymore, nor am I the same operator. I have high hopes for it now that I can successfully print nylon, ABS, ASA, HIPS, and PC. PETG should be a breeze.
Where did you get the files for that?
Thank you so much for putting this video together for us. I'm sure there's ton of us who wanted to get into it, who know just enough but not enough and you made it look so simple, mistakes and all. I just appreciate not only the hours going into this video, the days you spent learning, filming, printing and sharing with us.
I ordered the ghost gunner 3, 6-8 months ago still on back order. While waiting I should have ordered one of these and it might have scratched that itch, for a much cheaper price too. Thanks again for all you do, keep it up and don't blow your face off!
got my printer Saturday and it was surprisingly easy to set up and it print very well I'm stoked got a couple home brews going at the moment
Dude I'm so glad you are doing this I have been looking into it !
Coming from an Ender 5 user, the time it took to do your first print blew my mind away!!! I guess the auto levelling hardware and software has really improved and looks great!!! Congrats on your first print!
I started with an i3 kit. We have come a long way since 3d printing with popsicle sticks haven't we :) the struggles in the beginning are what make you good at the task.
@@felurianmasters4369 I agree. I spent crazy time with my first 3D printer. When I bought my last one I was printing some of my best prints in a couple hours from opening the package
You did really well for your first printer. You clearly did some research! All i can say is welcome to the club Johnny (we share that name).
So one thing to remember is that the spring steel bed plate is consumable. Plan on replacing it sooner than you think. Buy one now so when something chips or gouges, you have a bed on hand.
oh hey, I know you.
I have 2 x 3 pro. I love em. 4 years and I’m only now just having to really “work” on it. The upgrades and prints will almost make it a V2.
I’m now wanting a Bambu A1 for my “shop”.
I never printed and thought why not. I weld and other stuff so this is up my alley as I get older.
It was "a little bit loud" when you first fired it up because you jacked the Z-axis to the top of its range. Normal operation is to lift about 12mm, then start the home/leveling process. You already had it as high as it could lift, so the noise you got was the steppers trying to do the initial lift, but bashing against the limit of its travel. Harmless if it's only a once-in-a-while thing, but repeatedly doing that is a good way to eventually break something. As far as the nozzle temp adjustment, that's built into the sliced model as part of the slicing process - If you diddle the temp "early" on the printer, the setting in the .gcode file that the slicer produces will over-ride what you set the temp to. In general, you set the temp to be used at the time you slice your model. (Ditto for the plate temp) The line under the bunny's eyes makes me think you've got some "gunk" (That's a highly scientific term - don't throw it around lightly! :) ) on the leadscrews that drive your Z axis that's interfering with smooth motion - That'd be the first place I'd check. As far as slicers go, do yourself a favor and get away from the "Creality Slicer" - Google up "Ultimaker Cura" - It's the same (but newer version) program, but it doesn't have Creality's grafitti on it. I'm not 100% certain, since I don't use it, but I *BELIEVE* the Prusa Slicer is another "rebranding" of Cura - Cura is open source, so it's easy for anybody to put their "vanity-turds" into it and call it theirs. If you're capable of reloading ammo, you should have little trouble figuring things out by "fiddling with this, twiddling that, and messing with the other"
PrusaSlicer is a completely different slicer. It produces different G-code and has a very different UI. Personally, I prefer Prusaslicer but each has its strengths and weaknesses. Cura has a plugin interface which means there are a load of extra gadgets you can get (like different support structures etc) whereas Prusaslicer doesn't, but I find it generally more solid than Cura. I think getting to know both would be a good move in the long run, as one might be better than another for particular prints, but at the moment I find the Cura UI a bit fiddly and hard to find stuff.
Regarding Creality slicer - yea, you should ignore it and use the "mainstream" version of Cura.
@@IanSlothieRolfe Like I said, I don't use prusaslicer, so wasn't sure. Seemed to me I'd caught talk that said it was Cura-based, but if it's not, I guess it's not! :) I've also been led to believe that if it's Cura-based, it's heavily customized for the Prusa printers. Either way, one or the other is likely to take care of most, if not all slicing needs.
Been having great luck with my ender 3 V2, picked it up 2 weeks ago and almost through my first roll of filament
Ohhhhhhh man...
This is my favorite marrying of hobbies coming together in my favorite channel.
I've been blown away at what 3d printing has done for the reloading community as its turned access to case feeders and collators from $1000+ to $100+
This was an excellent experience thank you. I think it really gave me an idea of what to expect and helped me avoid issues I didn't even know I was going to have.
I started watching your video just after building and calibrating my Ender3 S1. I had much the same experience. Mine came with a glass bed and I found it to be a pain so I just went with the usual one and have had no problem getting prints off it so far. I just let it cool right down and there's not too much problem. I discovered that using Blender (which is free) is good for design. There's also a built in plugin called 3D Print Toolbox which scans your build and shows any errors in the mesh such as gaps and can repair them. You have to enable the plugin in Preferences for it to show up. Thanks for your informative and entertaining video!
Excellent! Was wanting to stumble across a video like this. You nailed it!
When you went to print the cat i got so excited. My first print on my ender 3 was the dog. It turned out way above expectations. Ive had great luck w inland filament. You will get into the groove and get it figured out. Its fun to have the little plastic spewing robot doing your bidding while your away.
Watching the tinkercad segment brought back nightmares for me. I still say sketchup is under rated. You draw what you want, extrude as needed and you're done. Maybe it just because I've been using it for 15 years but all the other cad programs that were advised were a total PITA
Excellent video ! This is very unique as you're documenting every little idiosyncrasy that us newbies will encounter & are largely overlooked by the more expert reviewers with prior expertise. First class job there. Thank you. 🇬🇧
I'm glad you mentioned this in your 2022 year in review video. I didn't know you did this one. I've been on the fence for 3D printing and you are just the guy I needed to help me jump in. I can't believe the amount of content you have in this one video. It's amazing. Thank you
I've been thinking about doing this for quite a while and just never pulled the trigger on it, so to speak. I just did it but went the other direction from you. I ordered a Prusa MK3S+. It's going to take about 5-weeks before it gets here not to mention the nuclear price. After doing a bunch of research the Prusa looks like the best fit.
I know this sounds weird but using glue on your build plate will help you get your parts off. I just got a X1C and it has a cool build plate that I almost could not get my prints off of. Putting glue on it helped get my prints off. I started on a Creality printer the CR -10 in 2016. Welcome and you’re doing great!!!
Welcome to the 3D printing family. Happy to have you with us.
Few tips you or someone else might find helpful.
In Cura you can set the areas you don’t want supports. It’s an option on the left hand side of the screen.
The settings on the right in Cura are just a fraction of what the slicer is capable of. Click three lines next to “search settings” in that menu. You’ll find better options for just about everything, including supports.
Also those spikes on your test towers are designed to be snapped off by hand so you can ‘feel’ the strength of the layer adhesion.
Keep your first prints you think look really good. If you feel your printer is screwing up then reprint the same file and compare to the original to see if there is actually a problem.
Great video, thanks for going through the thought process why you chose this model and being a noob myself helped me decide which one to get.
I can't believe I just watched a 2 hour video. Love it. Had some good information in there. I'm thinking of jumping in to 3D printing and this video was very helpful.
This video was actually very interesting to watch, good job.
I think you'll have an appreciation for the fart extractor after this exercise 🤣. Glad to see you taking on a whole new branch of the reloading hobby
Great vid, I just thought about getting into 3d printing the other day and found you also just got into it. Keep us updated on how it’s going. I’m looking at v2 printer.
After having a bullet feeder printed for my Hornady LNL I too have decided to get into this.. Have a bunch of 3D printed reloading tools .
Loving you moving into the 3D printing space, Johnny. Keep up the journey and keep us posted!
This was really interesting to see your take on getting started with 3d-printing. I think you are doing a great job and are learning fast. You have lot's of good ideas.. Have been 3d-printing for three years now with my ender 3.. Designed and printed lots of stuff for reloading and additions for weapons. It is really great to have a 3d-printer around. Started out with tinkercar, but moved on to onshape, and have had good luck with that. Using Cura as slicer
you are definitely right that the v2 would have been better because doing a few upgrades will let you get to know your printer better plus there is a huge community behind the enders.
I was a noob a few months ago and I've came a long way. Hopefully you've figured out the temperature towers and all that since this video. Every time I get a new role of filament I haven't tried before I do a temp tower to find the perfect temp for the filament.
I just got my 3d printer the other week. First one. I've avoided it, because I am a bit obsessive and this is a rabbit hole that is deep. But my business finally demanded one.
Went with a resin printer instead of filament because it's for rapid prototyping.
Just be careful... resins are toxic
Don't stress over the print surface. The OEM surface is crap. There are loads of different and good spring steel print surfaces available on Amazon. My favourite is the dual side smooth-powder coated PEI.
Get an inexpensive heat gun to quickly and easily deal with fine stringing on a finished prints.
Being able to model your own parts is the key to 3D printing. It allows you to make anything you want.
Get some TPU95 filament. It is one of my favourites to work with. TPU is somewhat flexible and is very strong. Printed with thick walls and high infill it produces parts that are only slightly flexible but very resistant to breakage due to their ability to flex rather than fracture, like PLA does. TPU is also super easy to print and sticks well to the print surface. Just need to adjust print speeds and combing to minimize stringing.
the best cheapest print surface is a 1/16inch (1.5mm) thick sheet of G10/FR4/Garolite. If you can find it that is. (also requires clips or some way to secure though)
@@xXKisskerXx He can order it from McMaster Carr. If he can reload ammo, he can make straight and accurate cuts(like glass, you score it with a craft knife then snap it) in fiberglass and sand the cut edges while taking sufficient precautions to not kill himself.
The struggle is real my friend! The hard part is learning CAD programs and getting good at them!
A cute kitty. A great souvenir to keep of your first print :-)
this printer is a good one. you picked right. cept maybe that build plate. you might want to get a coated glass bed. they release super easy once cool.
Absolute blast watching that. You picked up the Tinker-Cad quickly! That pencil holder is amazing.
One trick to consider is printing individual parts and assembling them afterward. It might save some tricky bridging.
For some prints you kind of have to let it run unattended. My last print was 14 hours long.
God...this is awesome...I also reload and use The hornady AP LnL....and like a person that wants more headaches have been wanting to get into the 3D side of things....but wanted to find someone to walk me through is ...well your video is about as close as I could ever get....thanks so much this journey....
Even at a year old this video was interesting! When you first started doing the setup and leveling/Z-offset, you should have had the bed and nozzel at the operating temp (expansion of heated parts), but you probably know that by now. LOL!! The manual should reflect that but doesn't. I've got 2 older Ender 3 v2 printers and did the BL touch & CL Touch upgrades on them. The self leveling helps alot and as I remember I think that was in the upgrade manual (too long ago). When setup is right and with the slicer tweaked the prints come out pretty good. Thank you for the video.
Don’t know if others have already stated, but a glass bed and hairspray is all I use in a production setting with many Ender 3’s. I threw that damn mat in a box in the basement day1. If you want some free replacements, I have all them in a box somewhere.
Actually…..you want to try any of my Lee APP cast bullet pushers? They make sizing a dream!
A Great video, thanks for taking the time to film it and thanks for your honesty. My first printer is due to be delivered in the next few days. Meanwhile I’ve been checking out Tinkercad. Yes, my skills are on a par with your first attempts. You’ve given me the confidence to persevere. You’ve covered so many good points, which will definitely help me. Thanks from across the pond 🇬🇧
Legit; we're right in the middle of the Cambrian Explosion for 3D printing. So many printers and materials to choose from, and so many ways to customize them to one's own specific needs and preferences for aesthetics.
For adhesion on my CR-10S I have the very flexible magnetic build surface so it is very easy to remove, just peel the item off even with the first layer squished.
On the ender 3v2 I have the hard plate. I adjust it up until it is a fine bead and doesn't stick much. A light layer of glue stick holds it well and is fairly easy to get parts to release. Wide blue painters tape protects the surface to prevent buildup of PLA and messing surface finish of subsequent prints.
Just plan on buying more of those build plates because you will eventually trash them
I bet a ton of people like me would love to see this long video be edited to a video where you go over the important highlights.
The video is quite a mouthful. Also this is my first encounter. I promise I will watch if you make the cut down video!
I use a plastic razor blade with mine. Safe for the bed and plenty of leverage to get the bits off. Also, get the bed warm and use a paper towel with rubbing alcohol to clean off the pla remains. It's good to do anyway to remove oil from your hands too.
Good luck brother started this same process November of last year finally today I can pretty much slice and print anything first try. Print you a calibration block and check it with a caliper and watch a video on esteps for your printer make sure it’s feeding close to exact as possible will make when you or printing multiple joining parts they will be more consistent to the model.
Who would have thought watching your printer was more fascinating than television? I sit in my print room and stare at the thing for several minutes with short breaks to do meaningful things.
Pretty cool video...learning with you as you go thru the processes.
Neat! I bought my first 3d printer (Ender 3 v2) last year or something, but hadn't set it up until a month ago. Didn't have an automatic bed leveler so it took me like a week to figure out how to get consistent prints, but once ya get it down it's tons of fun. Oh! Tip: It's recommended you have good ventilation. With base PLA some say it's 100% fine indoors and others say its not, but for most other filament people agree it isn't healthy. Things like ABS can offgas stuff. I also read some filaments throw off stuff that can be seriously harmful to pet birds and other really tiny delicate pets - like kill 'em harmful.
Wow! What an awesome video! First time viewer here. I like your style. I’m not into guns and reloading but I’m hooked.
Thank you for this! 😊
I am waiting for my Ender-3 S1 to get delivered in the mail any day now!
I am beyond excited, as that will be my first printer too!
You got a follow, have an awesome day! 🙂
Did you ever get your ender 3 s1?? If so how do I like it so far?
It's hilarious watching you put that thing together on the edge of the table like i did with mine. It seemed natural if not in the instructions lol!
Glad to see your having so much success with it.
I can’t wait to watch your 3-D printing videos. You know Shannon you’re really selling yourself short by mostly doing guns and ammo videos and chicken videos now which I really like. I turned on my elderly parents to your chicken videos and they just love them. They say you got a very relaxed personality very interesting guy to watch. I love the shooting videos but that man is tough to make it on UA-cam in the shooting sports and reloading.
The differences in the retraction settings are because in Untimaker Cura you based your profile off of a standard Ender 3 which has a bowden tube extruder whereas your S1 has a direct drive extruder. Changing those settings to match the creality slicer settings was the right thing to do - direct drive extruders need much less retraction than bowden tube ones.
Arc Welder is another great one for speeding things up and improving quality with rounded anything.
You saved me a LOT of time. Thank you for uploading this video.
Excellent video, thank you so much. I have just bought this printer so this was so helpful!
As a realoader who got into 3d printing a year ago. Welcome to the rabbit hole. Now Im 2k into a custom Voron 2.4 build
LOL. I started with an Ender 3 and have made so many upgrades that I have easily doubled the cost of the original build. I am running full 3-axis linear rails, a BL-Touch and a custom direct drive using an EZR-Struder. Also upgraded to a Touch Screen and bigger main board.
@@ExpatriotSilencers been there done that
great video and VERY informative, taught me lots of what other 3d printer videos don't cover
Been thru so many vids….this was soooo looong, BUT as a noob, this is what we Want😊 !
Wonderful video! Thank you so much for making it. I don't even have a 3d printer but I'm considering buying one. Thanks again
My son-in-law has 3-D printed a few things for me. I hunt with a Ruger No.1 35 rem. and was looking for a way to have a couple extra rounds handy for follow-up shots without carrying them between my fingers. I gave him the cartridge dimension and a drawing. I had some small rare earth magnets that I had installed in the holders. They just stick to the side of the action and have to rounds ready to go.
Have fun with it, you can make some interesting items.
Not a bad starter choice with the Ender. Hopefully you got the V2.
He got the S1
@brayden nelson apologies, my knowledge of Enders is dated, I moved on from them a while ago.
I loved this video i hope there's an update on your 3d printing journey it is an addicting hobby for sure
I have the ender V2 and love it.
I use a glass bed surface and a sugar solution as an adhesion agent.
a tablespoon of sugar in 50 - 100 ml of water with a drop of dishwash liquid to aid wetting of the bed surface.A straight sugar solution will tend to form beads, the soap prevents that. You can experiment to arrive at the best dilution.
Wipe onto the bed surface with a piece of sponge and allow to dry as the bed preheats. It's dry when it is not very tacky to the touch.
When the bed cools the sugar coat releases automatically due to differential expansion cracking the dry sugar film.
Clean the bed surface under running water , recoat and continue printing.
This should work on your bed surface too.
I just recently dusted off my own Ender 3 (v2) to try and nail down printing 35mm miniatures for DnD and damn is it frustrating. Long print times are the norm with FDM tough. What you can do to speed things up on bigger/less detailed prints is use a bigger nozzle (0.6 or 0.8mm), increase the print speed from 50 to 100mm/s (in the slicer software), reduce infill percentage, try to avoid supports where possible, reduce the number of walls from 3 to 2.
for miniatures you will not be happy unless you get a resin printer.
@@joshjones5172 Not happy but satisfied. I have some overheating issues currently because of failing fans, but once I get those replaced I am confident in archieving playworthy minis without the hassle of SLA postprocessing and having a dedicated second machine.
I just got a Prusa a few months back, myself. Kudos, Johnny.
Love your channel, I’m a new reloader and when I was just starting out finding your channel was the best thing I could’ve done I’ve learned so much thanks for doing what you do. Please do a video talking about improved cartridges the 223 A.I. Specifically, somthing I just learned of today! Thanks again.
I have to say, this is very cool to watch! I've been 3D printing for three years already, and I was lucky enough to have some very knowledgeable friends to help me. Watching you set up on your own without help is very entertaining (and as much as the Ender is giving you headaches, I have to say, that was a surprisingly headache-free setup). I've scratch-built my two printers, and none of them were up and printing in a couple of hours. ;)
Just picked up the Anycubic Vyper myself. Been trying out a few items from Thingiverse. Looking forward to getting into the CAD side and coming up with some of my own designs.
How do you like the vyper?
@@corytarby6643 Well its my first printer and I'm still learning. It was easy to set up and get printing. So far I like it.
@Shooter59, that's the printer I keep coming back to looking at getting for my first as well. What slicer software did you start with Cura?
@@corytarby6643 Yes. I'm using Cura right now. Trying not to add to many complications to this until I get it worked out. Still alot to learn.
I have an ender 3 pro. Paid $240 in September to make parts for myself and sell on eBay. I’ve paid for the entire printer and everything I have invested into the printer at this point from selling parts on eBay. I make mec reloading trays, rcbs uniflow funnel, caps, etc. all are my designs done in auto desk inventor.
It's like watching paint dry watching those things print but I still find the other stuff interesting
Great video man. Always a fan of the jrb long formats. My Prusa should be here in a couple weeks
you dont need the z-limit switch when using an automatic bed leveler.
awsome to see you getting into 3d printing. I make a ton of stuff for reloading with my printers, I have (2) original ender 3 printers, a CR-10 V2, monoprice mini delta, and last but not least The Prusa mk3s+. when i heard you comment about the prusa you sounded just like i originally did. ultimately i should have bought the prusa first. i still use my other printers on occasion the ender 3's if i need to pump out multiple parts quickly the cr10v2 when i need to print something large format, the mini delta for printing on the go, but the prusa is definitely my work horse. it hands down smokes the other printers in terms of quality, and just puts out perfect print after perfect print.
as far as filament choices i had a very hard time getting petg to print cleanly on my enders, the prusa i use petg exclusively and stick to pla with the enders. ive used the inland brand filaments they do ok, but i pretty much always use hatchbox brand filaments, prints always come out nicer with it.
looks like creality really stepped up the design on the ender series with this new printer, i may have to check it out to add to my print farm.
Thank you for making this video. Very helpful.
Get yourself a PEI sheet for the hot plate the prints come off so much easier, one thing about 3D printing you are always learning.
Welcome to the club, you only get more into it from here on out.
I just discovered your channel. I wish I knew about it sooner! I would have suggested an Elegoo Neptune 2s if you were looking for very little tinkering on initial setup and promoting in general. I have been wanting to get a 3d printer for a while, but financial constraints at this time are preventing me from doing so. I have had my eye on several Ender's for a while until I discovered the Elegoo Neptune 2s. It appears to be an all around workhorse with some small hiccoughs in the beginning (i.e. you don't need to do an immense amount of upgrades right off of the bat). I hope you have great experiences with your Ender 3!
I have an ender 3 v2, same screen you have, and I've only been printing a month... I have already printed 4 complete glock mags using pla... they work great
Subed to learn reloading, watches 2hr vid on 3d printing. Love what you do keep making content!!!
a little help for you- prep the print plate. Put a little tiny bit of vaseline on a paper towel and give it a really thin light coat. That'll make the removal much easier. Keeps it from completely sticking.