After coming across this video on the Arrma forum, I figured I'd follow you here. I soldered up 3 6S LiPo Batteries this morning, and I realized I had to get the XT90 plugs apart. I figured it out by using a small Phillips bit and pressing one side out. I unsoldered the + and put it in the IC5 plug, then did the same thing to the negative side. Just so I didn't have to worry about crossing the wires.
Nice video. I've had a difficult time soldering these wires before on sensitive flight controller pads. Tore so many pads off trying to heat and get these large gauge wires on. That would probably be a decent video to make, how to solder to pads on a circuit board without lifting/screwing them up.
The xt90 connector on our golf bag cart is so difficult to remove and the wires keep coming loose. What connector can I replace it with that is easier to disconnect?
Well done! But guys that are really good at stuff make it look easy. I've done only a few, and I never quite feel satisfied that it was as good as it could be. But I don't do it for a living. Lol
My wire cutters have a nice scorch mark from when I cut both wires at once. You'd think this was the sort of mistake a person makes only once. I know I've done this at least twice.
Hey so i know im a bit late compared to when this video was posted. but i need help. Can i do this with a 36v 15 ah grade a lithium ion ebike battery that has a xt 90 connector? i would like to take it off and put the same xt90 connector except the new one ill put on will be the anti spark version xt90.
Anti spark versions use a resistor in series that is jumpered when fully plugged in. But since the resistor is active when partially unplugged, there can be some human error that causes meltage if you draw high current through a partially unplugged XT90 anti-spark. A better solution in my humble opinion would be smarter circuit design using a soft start so that current draw is minimized until the system is powered up (so that there is no inrush current until the connection is solid. Another option would be if they made an XT90 with the same design as the xt60i which has a third low current sense wire for communications. Something simple like a MOSFET on the sense wire would act like a switch so that the current does not flow until after the sense wire and ground are connected (which would be after power and ground connect if the sense wire is recessed in either or both plugs). The side advantage is this method would allow the ESC to detect the partial disconnect of the connector and cut power before the connector is fully removed so there is no spark or meltage risk provided the ESC itself is not on fire (at which point you have bigger issues and no connector is going to save you). MOSFETS are already in the ESC so we would not necessarily need to add a series MOSFET which would slightly increase losses and increase ESC cost, instead we use the ESC's MOSFETS and cleverly arrange them to keep the capacitors disconnected until the connection is made. I am sure something like this could be done but just isn't. Another - more universal - option is the soft start. Using software timers or some clever hardware like a small ceramic cap, a resistor and a MOSFET, we can design the ESC to not draw a burst of current until say 1/10th of a second after power is connected... thus eliminating the spark because only small current flows to power the timer when connected to power. Lots of options, no need for more expensive cables... but ESC makers need to do it on their end and they wont unless they have to because consumer pressure.
Thank you nearly blinded me for I was wanted about the wires sparking 😅 nice so these connecters would be suitable to to use on a 48v battery and a ebike charger?
I would recommend doing a google search. I know the ebike industry has a big following so I'm guessing they have forums full of their best practices. Cheers!
Any ol' iron will work for this. I use an industrial $600 Hakko, but that's only because I do electronics repair for a living. But even a cheap, basic iron is capable of tackling this kind of job, it's very basic in the world of soldering.
@@ShaneFix Thanks for quick response! Going through your affiliate links to buy what I need. This was best video I found on doing this the right way! BTW using this for new connectors for ebike battery not remote control car LIPO batteries. (although I do own a lipo battery remote control car - e revo 2.0)
To be honest, I have no idea. I don't have any experience with solar panel work. I would imagine they have very specific requirements, especially for environmental issues, like rain, so I would use whatever the solar panel company recommends.
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, but as far as I know, Traxxas has their own proprietary connector. So you would need an XT90 to Traxxas adaptor... or just swap the connector on the Traxxas ESC to an XT90.
Hi, it would be nice if someone can help me with this. SSS 56104 brushless motor 500KV. I would like to know which battery fits the above devices? Thank you
This is a good point. I actually use shrink tube in all of these and it must've slipped my mind when filming (I had to go back and watch it and, sure enough, I totally forgot). While the end caps should work well, I do recommend using shrink tubing as well. Good catch!
Those are made by Hakko, I think I posted them in the description. However, they're very expensive for what they are. If I didn't do electronics repair as my full time job, I'd probably buy something cheaper.
How much amperage you think a Traxxas connector can handle? I’m thinking of swapping over to xt90 after my Traxxas connectors are getting warm after installing the mamba monster X setup
That's a good question, I'm not sure. I think I'd definitely step up to XT90 with the Mamba though. Make sure your cables are large guage as well, they can be a big bottleneck if they're too small.
@@Hittin2thabass No, I never touch those. I'm just talking all cables going in/out of the esc from battery and to motor, etc. You're stuck with whatever guage wire comes out of your LIPO.
Fuck my lifffee. Look what I’m going to have to do because I bought a battery from eBay not knowing shit that the connector was different from the wire on my controller 🙄. FAKIN HELL MAN !
Yup, you want to fill all the air gaps and make the connection as solid as possible. Weak connections can cause all sorts of issues for the ESC, or worse, fry the cable if it's not able to conduct all that current quickly.
best example of a tutorial! thanks!
Best t90 conector tutorial watching in you tube until now
After coming across this video on the Arrma forum, I figured I'd follow you here.
I soldered up 3 6S LiPo Batteries this morning, and I realized I had to get the XT90 plugs apart. I figured it out by using a small Phillips bit and pressing one side out. I unsoldered the + and put it in the IC5 plug, then did the same thing to the negative side. Just so I didn't have to worry about crossing the wires.
Nice video. I've had a difficult time soldering these wires before on sensitive flight controller pads. Tore so many pads off trying to heat and get these large gauge wires on. That would probably be a decent video to make, how to solder to pads on a circuit board without lifting/screwing them up.
Superb tutorial, subscribed!
The xt90 connector on our golf bag cart is so difficult to remove and the wires keep coming loose. What connector can I replace it with that is easier to disconnect?
can a 90 plug into a 60 and visa versa
Thx man... I just got a 10pck of Mcigicm xt60h from Amazon to solder up this weekend. I don't want to know how you know NOT to cross your wires 😂🔥.
Let's just say it'll wake you up if you ever cross the wires! 😂🤣🔌🌩🔥🚒😫
Awesome video !
How many watts do you need?
Cutting both wires at once gave me a wonderful burst of sparks. I totally recommend trying it.
Haha, when I was younger I actually exploded a LiPo by cutting both at once. Never did that again!
ShaneFix can you help me I am looking for a Hauler bag which will fit my arrma vorteks 3s I am in the uk, but have no idea what will fit it :'(
What temperature are you soldering at?
Well done! But guys that are really good at stuff make it look easy. I've done only a few, and I never quite feel satisfied that it was as good as it could be. But I don't do it for a living. Lol
My wire cutters have a nice scorch mark from when I cut both wires at once. You'd think this was the sort of mistake a person makes only once. I know I've done this at least twice.
Hey so i know im a bit late compared to when this video was posted. but i need help. Can i do this with a 36v 15 ah grade a lithium ion ebike battery that has a xt 90 connector? i would like to take it off and put the same xt90 connector except the new one ill put on will be the anti spark version xt90.
Je ne ferai surement jamais celà mais c'était agréable à regarder !
Good video but I would suggest the xt90 anti spark version for batteries to eliminate spark when connecting your esc
Anti spark versions use a resistor in series that is jumpered when fully plugged in. But since the resistor is active when partially unplugged, there can be some human error that causes meltage if you draw high current through a partially unplugged XT90 anti-spark. A better solution in my humble opinion would be smarter circuit design using a soft start so that current draw is minimized until the system is powered up (so that there is no inrush current until the connection is solid. Another option would be if they made an XT90 with the same design as the xt60i which has a third low current sense wire for communications. Something simple like a MOSFET on the sense wire would act like a switch so that the current does not flow until after the sense wire and ground are connected (which would be after power and ground connect if the sense wire is recessed in either or both plugs). The side advantage is this method would allow the ESC to detect the partial disconnect of the connector and cut power before the connector is fully removed so there is no spark or meltage risk provided the ESC itself is not on fire (at which point you have bigger issues and no connector is going to save you). MOSFETS are already in the ESC so we would not necessarily need to add a series MOSFET which would slightly increase losses and increase ESC cost, instead we use the ESC's MOSFETS and cleverly arrange them to keep the capacitors disconnected until the connection is made. I am sure something like this could be done but just isn't.
Another - more universal - option is the soft start. Using software timers or some clever hardware like a small ceramic cap, a resistor and a MOSFET, we can design the ESC to not draw a burst of current until say 1/10th of a second after power is connected... thus eliminating the spark because only small current flows to power the timer when connected to power. Lots of options, no need for more expensive cables... but ESC makers need to do it on their end and they wont unless they have to because consumer pressure.
Nice video - thank you!
Thank you nearly blinded me for I was wanted about the wires sparking 😅 nice so these connecters would be suitable to to use on a 48v battery and a ebike charger?
I would recommend doing a google search. I know the ebike industry has a big following so I'm guessing they have forums full of their best practices. Cheers!
At 1:08, this advice is not only for batteries. Also don’t do this with 240V live wires. Don’t ask how I know this...😂
Ha! Absolutely!
@@daviddou1408 we all learn with our mistakes don’t we?
Anyone know what wattage soldering iron should be used? I have a 65 watt but thinking of buying 300 w.
Any ol' iron will work for this. I use an industrial $600 Hakko, but that's only because I do electronics repair for a living. But even a cheap, basic iron is capable of tackling this kind of job, it's very basic in the world of soldering.
@@ShaneFix Thanks for quick response! Going through your affiliate links to buy what I need. This was best video I found on doing this the right way! BTW using this for new connectors for ebike battery not remote control car LIPO batteries. (although I do own a lipo battery remote control car - e revo 2.0)
@@ABCD-eg5ky Awesome, let me know how it turns out!
Is possible to use xt60 for:
300w solar panel cable wire to (xt60) ---> solar charge controller?
To be honest, I have no idea. I don't have any experience with solar panel work. I would imagine they have very specific requirements, especially for environmental issues, like rain, so I would use whatever the solar panel company recommends.
Will a TRX Female adapter To XT90 XT-90 Male adapter work with a xt60 Traxxas esc
I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, but as far as I know, Traxxas has their own proprietary connector. So you would need an XT90 to Traxxas adaptor... or just swap the connector on the Traxxas ESC to an XT90.
Hi, it would be nice if someone can help me with this.
SSS 56104 brushless motor
500KV.
I would like to know which battery fits the above devices? Thank you
Forgets the shrink tube
This is a good point. I actually use shrink tube in all of these and it must've slipped my mind when filming (I had to go back and watch it and, sure enough, I totally forgot). While the end caps should work well, I do recommend using shrink tubing as well. Good catch!
U didn't mention the square side is positive, red wire
For all my 3s cars shall I use xt60
I would just use XT90 across the board, that way you only have to worry about one type of connector in all of your cars.
@@ShaneFix thanks Mate
what is the soldering screw tools you have to hold the connector?
Those are made by Hakko, I think I posted them in the description. However, they're very expensive for what they are. If I didn't do electronics repair as my full time job, I'd probably buy something cheaper.
Great tutorial thanks
Stupid Question:
Is the default convention to have a "FEMALE" connector on the battery ?
Yup. Esc's are always male.
Thank you.
@4:19 "I Like"
Alan Sherman reference?
Quiet the set up you got there
Thanks! My full-time job is electronics repair so I have to have all of it.
I made the mistake, now I’m here
Haha, but now I bet you won't make the mistake again! 😁
How much amperage you think a Traxxas connector can handle? I’m thinking of swapping over to xt90 after my Traxxas connectors are getting warm after installing the mamba monster X setup
That's a good question, I'm not sure. I think I'd definitely step up to XT90 with the Mamba though. Make sure your cables are large guage as well, they can be a big bottleneck if they're too small.
It’s 12ga wire. My best batteries are Zop power. But yea my connectors used to not get warm and I definitely notice they are getting warm
12 ga wire is probably fine, though I actually run 10 ga wire on all my 6s or 8s rigs. The bigger the better for those current-hungry applications.
How do you change the wires? You would have to open the battery or no?
@@Hittin2thabass No, I never touch those. I'm just talking all cables going in/out of the esc from battery and to motor, etc. You're stuck with whatever guage wire comes out of your LIPO.
Fuck my lifffee. Look what I’m going to have to do because I bought a battery from eBay not knowing shit that the connector was different from the wire on my controller 🙄. FAKIN HELL MAN !
Thank you 🌹🇲🇦🇲🇦❤👌👌
That was ALOT of solder
Yup, you want to fill all the air gaps and make the connection as solid as possible. Weak connections can cause all sorts of issues for the ESC, or worse, fry the cable if it's not able to conduct all that current quickly.