I like to "true-up" my long reach burrs before cutting. Tighten the collet until the burr will hardly turn, then tighten. Check the run-out before cutting. Tap side of the shank at the collet to true. Also, a rubberband wrapped around the shank can act as a dampener, reducing vibrations and improving finish. Great video!
When I use 1/4" shank, long length cutters, which are prone to cutter bounce, I found a solution that provides more control over the cutter. I cut a 4" length of 5/16" rubber hose and place it over the shaft of the cutter before I place the shank into the chuck of the grinder. The sweet spot of the cutter is found by changing positions in the chuck after spinning it several times until I get the least vibration of the cutter head. Trial and error procedure. Once that position is achieved, then the hose comes into play. Using the hose between my thumb and index fingers, I slide it towards the cutter end, similar to a trombone action, and this gives me better cutter end control which leads to better porting results. The shaft of the cutter must be lubricated periodically so the hose will slide up and down the cutter shaft. I use WD40. I hope this trick helps anyone who encounters the cutter bounce gremlin.
StickWax had always treated me right. Love the tidbits on your process. Numbers and percentages would be nice but I understand trade secrets. Keep em coming. Love the vids!
Buy Boelube from industrial supply places. You will never load up or kill another burr. Another comparable product but not as good is grinders grease from Eastwood. It will not foul your burrs and it will not poison your air. Happy Grinding.
Welding anti spatter paste is my go to. Works great on aluminum and iron, clean burrs and cool burrs. No more WD-40. I don't use non ferrus bits unless I'm hogging a big chunk anymore.
I find high quality air tools with front exhaust solve a lot of these problems with tools jumping and clogging. Crosscuts work pretty well on aluminum in my experience.
I use Dotco air grinders that I acquired from years of welding and precision grinding of SA-240 stainless steels. Start and stops are the most important techniques that must be learned to become a decent porter. No undercut!
I am going to try my hand at porting a set of gm corvette heads off my zz3 crate motor. I have had the engine for 28 years and the only thing I have done is put flat tops in it and had the heads milled once. I used it with a plate kit for years and it ran pretty good. I am going to up grade the cam and port the heads and turbo charge it and see how it does like that.. Liking your channel
Mid 1990s I ported for a shop that had a down draft porting bench. It would suck away all the dust. If i remember I used a dab of grease on the burr. Porting was done in a closed room in the dirty part of the shop. I used to do alot of big block iron heads...Lots of fun.
Liked this video a lot. I have ported cast iron back at the time Chev. introduced the BowTie heads. Took forever to do a port job on them as you said and tools wear out. I use the long shank on most jobs for same reason you do, vision. If I get some tool chatter I slip on heavy leather welding gloves and stablize the long shank with fingers on the other hand. Good to hear you say how critical the shape of the throat and the chamber side of the seat is. Don't know if you have ever mentioned this as I don't have time to watch all your vids, but the reason it is so important is because of the damn poppet valves we all are using to let the mixtures in and out. Poppet valves suck in general. But no one has come up with another way that doesn't break the bank to implement. Smokey Yunick spent many hours studying the effects of the poppet valves and how to get the mixture around those big air flow blockers. When you get about half inch of lift off seat you start to see big flow improvement but then one side of the poppet valve is getting close to the chamber or cylinder wall for another blocking effect.
Anyone else bust out to laughing when they saw the shavings on top of that spray can? 😂🤣😂🤣 he been grinding his ass of is the first Thang that came to mind 😂🤣😂🤣
I don’t know if you cover this in the video as I’m writing this early on.. But you’re talking about the burr wobbling/dancing and jumping around, something I found that you can do with the long shank burrs is to either use a glove or a shop rag to hold the shank with your other hand to help control it.. which of course you want to be careful when using something like a rag and keep it from getting caught up in the hex adjustment/tightening lug on the end of the die grinder.. and what I’ve done before was to take a small piece of material such as cloth or a small piece of leather, (an inch or two wide; or whatever width you would need to be able to grasp it) and put it around the shank and put a couple wraps of electrical tape around it (I mean put the tape only around the cloth/leather strip itself, and not the shank of the cutting burr, so it’ll be able to spin freely inside of it) to give you something to hold onto and you can make it to where there’s no loose ends or anything to get caught in the chuck
I use doff oil. Dip the burr in it. Shake the excess off and put the burr in the middle of the port, "free air" then spin it. I'm the port, it will "spray" a fine film inside the port and prevent "clogging"
CHI stuff is made in Australia from Aussie aluminium. I didn't know it was stronger but aussie alloy has a reputation for polishing up alot better than the stuff from America.
Eric you were asking about ideas. There is a growing youtube channel called nivlac57. He is using a vortech inline 6 cylinder out of the Chevy Colorado's and is currently building them around 500ish i think. He was featured on Fasterproms youtube which has a ton of subscribers. I think it would be awesome for you guys to do a collaboration. There is no real aftermarket for these engines yet but this engine proves to be a holding well on stock bottom end. No head work has been done yet and Id like to see what a ported head from a pro that cares would do.
I'd be interested in seeing what airflow gains are obtained by dressing the area around the valve within the combustion chamber. (Like what you showed at the end of this video.) Great videos. Love the content.
Thanks mate for spending the time to show your technique it made me confident in how I have been doing my porting and reminded me to use better form when I get inpatient and start going back and forth to much! Lol. Would you consider doing a tech episode on chamber modifications to get more flow through the heads, maybe with big block and small block head's the different ways each is approached and before and after flow tests. Thanks again for your work.
Very informative and educational. What brand or make of rotary burr do you use. I have used single cut after a crosscut, at low speed and dipped in a WD-40. If I have any clogging, I have a round mini-file with a cone shaped sharpened tip to scrape out the bits. Looking forward to your next video.
I'm a big fan of Royal Purple product's, however have you ever tryed Boelube made by Orolube specifically manufactured for Boeing Corp. It comes in 3 consistency depending on the material you're working with. It keeps your bits sharp and double cut burs won't load up with aluminum, but a lot of material can be removed quickly with it..They also make a stick looks like a short fat roll of chap stick for sanding rolls that extends their life..Love your video's, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us..
Great info, thanks. Wish I'd seen it before I ravaged the ports on my VW 1192 heads. I made all the mistakes you described, and the heads look like they were ported with a hatchet. I mainly had trouble in corners where the cutter would climb and bounce around. Had better success with a slower speed tool.
Hi...Very good tips for porting..can you give your opinion pros and cons about dimple/golf ball porting compared to smooth satin look porting?...thanks alot for sharing knowledge...very good video 👍👍👍
I’ll take a 1/4” diameter mandrel for sanding rolls and cut the threaded tip off, and Then I’ll cut a 2” slit down the center of the mandrel for scotch bright. works great.
I'd like to see what can be done with some bbc peanut port heads. I think they are a under rated street engine head. Maybe some simple modifications can a long way with them.
I think you should do a quick series on ls cathedral heads. A quick porting guide for the noobs to maximise gains. grind here, grind there, bingo this is what cfm you'll get type of deal
Yeah, he should spend his time to give you free information that will get you 75-80% of the result he could get. Because you're not wanting to spend money to go faster. Or maybe you just think the man should freely give away the skills he has taken decades to develop. Maybe you should go to work and tell your employer you want to work for free today. Seriously, do you hear yourself? You disrespect the man and the professional porter by even hinting they should give you free power. He's giving you free hints and tricks, and if you pay attention to his porting vids he is telling you how to methodically develop a port. Go slow, pay a local shop to flow the port for you as you make changes and practice on junk heads, or pony up the cash and pay to have your heads ported dude
@@b.c4066 jeez man he was just suggesting something to do, after all if your wanting to make a buck on UA-cam you gotta get the views and what better way than to put up videos where guys can get real results.
Please give your best demonstration and explanation of transition from bowl to throat ( short and long side) and seat to chamber. Also what you like for seat placement and widths on intake and exhaust valves. Do you back cut int. and ex. valves? Do you radius blend the back cut on int. valve?
Try the Mondello lube. Goodson sells it. Better than the wax like stuff (including wax) I have used edge lube and other products and it's too messy inside the port in comparison. Also try using an old bronze guide on the shank of the cutter so you can hold it out near the cutting point. I put my other hand at the back of the grinder, the further apart your two hands are, the more leverage, control.
Question, how you ever put valve seats in a aluminum head, if so can you please do show step by step how. There's plenty of cast iron videos. Basically the size of tolerances. Do you heat head and freeze seat? Thanks
What causes the guid to break off? I got a set of darts from a round tracker and some of the guides was broke off like if you were looking at a clock it would be pointed at 945 ported pretty heavy
I want to ask you a question, not sure if you'll read it, so maybe someone else can chime in that actually knows. How do 2 valve heads compare to 4 valve heads in porting? You can find tons of info/books on 2 valve heads, porting techniques, and so on. Very little on 4 valve heads. Are the principals pretty much the same, or does the edition of more valves change things too much? Secondly I've had a few heads where the pressed in seat insert, is smaller than the bowl it was pressed into giving a ridge (inside diameter of the seat doesn't blend with the factory bowl). Is that seat to bowl area the throat? and would you want to blend/roll that edge of the seat back to meet the larger bowl? This is just questions for personal knowledge stuff, for my cars.
how do you prevent your hands from going numb? Part of my left index finder is still numb 3 months later. Doctor said its permanent nerve damage from vibration of the die grinder.
Light dimmer switches (rotary dial) is rated for 120 volts give that a try to vary the RPM on the die grinder, it's cheap. Mount the switch in a elect box (plastic) so you wont get shocked. Have you tried the machine fluid as a lube, cheap and you got it on hand.
Really enjoyed watching these recently and the tech and math on throat diameter vs valve diameter. Would really like to see a segment where you compare flow for forced induction vs NA on the same head, and what you do differently for FI builds from a porting standpoint. Particularly interested to see if the 91% rule is the same for a ported head for FI. I assume you'd need to run the flow bench at a higher pressure to see if the air in the runners and un the chamber behaves the same under boost?
Eric.. Dumb question.. How do you NOT end up with runners with 4 different volumes when you port like this? Or is the difference so minor that it mostly doesn't matter? I keep thinking of the chamber volume measuring I've watched in the past.. If chamber volume matters, why wouldn't port volume? Thanks!
Eric very good video !Please go back to the CHI manifold and teach us about how you machine the humps out of the plenum and even the length on the 4 corner long runners.
Nobody ever talks about the height of the valve guide in the bowl. Example world sport2 guide boss. It's enormous and no way could I not shape em. I made the ridge inline with the port center and ground em to a point behind the valve. Made sure to maintain port bias measured several points so ea guide boss got ground the same. Then I learned about core shift. Ea port the boss was drifting off to one side a couple thousands. That got my measurements off and the boss got really thin on the last 2. I had to cut the guide .125ish to establish enough material around the valve that wouldn't chip off. How short can the guide be b4 you get into trouble?
I ported a Set of 265 2 Bbl. Small Port Heads out to Accept a Z28 Intake on my 56 265 at 14 y.o. With a Eléctric Drill and Grinding Stones the Drill got so Hot I Needed to Wear Leather Gloves.. Im thinking it took like 3, 4 hrs. Per Port I Knew ABSOLUTELY nothing about it only had the GASKET as a Guide. The Outside of the Ports where paper thin and one Port Needed a Spot of JB. Weld.. That motor Ran like a Raped Ape with a 350/ 350 H. P. CAM, BIG Tube Hookers and 600 Holley in 1971..
This is great info on grinding techniques and how to get at various parts of the port. How about some guidance on specific mods to SBC, BBC, or LS heads that an amateur could try without ruining the heads? I think you did some bowl work on LS3 heads a while back that made some very significant gains. What part of that could we do to maybe get 50 or 75% of your results? Personally, I think I’d just send them to you!
Can't speak for burrs but the machinists at the last 3 shops I've worked at send out all the carbide milling tools to a local jobber to have them resharpened.
I put one of those into a dye grinder with no speed control and turn it on and the vibration was so violent that it scared me and then it bent at a 45° angle and became the most dangerous thing ever... This was many years ago by the way not recently
I always wear a glove with my left hand and kind of brace the shank on the rasp. I'm about as amateur as they come but I can tell you once they wobble or bang and get even the slightest bend they are basically useless. Lol
I'm about to port a Isuzu G161 small port head. I haven't tried porting since I was an apprentice lololololololololololololol, that was a dud set of heads. I have a lot of burs for other jobs in the workshop so I'll see what I can do.
Great content. I've been watching David Vizard for a while and you two seem to be similar in a few ways. I think you do more drag race all out performance and he does really nice street engines. Do you favor any corner of the chamber and just clean up the opposite side ? Where do you purchase your carbides from? Thanks so much.
Enjoyed your video! I live in OKC you happen to know of a good machine shop around this area? I'm looking to have a shop do some work on my 5.7 Hemi stroker build. Also do you see good improvement in porting the Eagle Heads that come stock on the 5.7 hemi's? Was thinking about checking into having you do some work on my heads I beleive your not to far from me. Thanks!
@@WeingartnerRacing Thanks for responding, I will look him up. Would you be able to check them over and do some work on them? Not sure how busy you are or your turn around time but I would be interested if you have the time?
Must be nice to be on a level were you can say "I dont do cast iron anymore". That's all I do. I've never dun aluminum. But I just do my own stuff as a hobby. I dont have a business doing it. Lol! I weld to get money for car parts.
Could you do a video on intake runner dimpling I have always been intrigued on where and when to use this method. And if you do not use that approach why?
I'm doing a set of duramax heads now , exhaust side is mostly done , any information on how wide i can make exhaust port , and how far can I raise roof on intake side .
@@WeingartnerRacing headgamesmotorworks.com/ www.ruffstuff.com/ these two places sell them, they really are a revelation, so much easier to control, almost no bouncing.
killer info mate! do you ever do any chrysler small block stuff? would be great to see some basics on a set of edelbrock rpm chrysler small block heads but when your half way through so you can show us un-touched as a comparison.
OMG the comments on stuff to unclog burrs.... Guys anything will do it, when I was doing steering and suspension we used to use power steering oil in a squirt bottle from the 60l drum.
I worked in an aluminum and magnesium foundry years ago. We use nothing but bees wax not only on cutters but sanding disc as well. All our tools were pneumatic. The difficulty is parts that were heat treated and then needed and area reground. The material becomes very hard.
I like to "true-up" my long reach burrs before cutting. Tighten the collet until the burr will hardly turn, then tighten. Check the run-out before cutting. Tap side of the shank at the collet to true. Also, a rubberband wrapped around the shank can act as a dampener, reducing vibrations and improving finish. Great video!
Don’t worry. Your videos aren’t too long, just very informative
Felt like a lot of rambling but I paid attention incase he knows something I don't know
Yeah, no way was it too long. For a ground-up learner its great.
When I use 1/4" shank, long length cutters, which are prone to cutter bounce, I found a solution that provides more control over the cutter. I cut a 4" length of 5/16" rubber hose and place it over the shaft of the cutter before I place the shank into the chuck of the grinder. The sweet spot of the cutter is found by changing positions in the chuck after spinning it several times until I get the least vibration of the cutter head. Trial and error procedure. Once that position is achieved, then the hose comes into play. Using the hose between my thumb and index fingers, I slide it towards the cutter end, similar to a trombone action, and this gives me better cutter end control which leads to better porting results. The shaft of the cutter must be lubricated periodically so the hose will slide up and down the cutter shaft. I use WD40. I hope this trick helps anyone who encounters the cutter bounce gremlin.
StickWax had always treated me right. Love the tidbits on your process.
Numbers and percentages would be nice but I understand trade secrets.
Keep em coming. Love the vids!
Buy Boelube from industrial supply places. You will never load up or kill another burr. Another comparable product but not as good is grinders grease from Eastwood. It will not foul your burrs and it will not poison your air. Happy Grinding.
But he's, "going to town"! I lmao every time....
Boelube is the stuff to use. Also great for drill bits.
Welding anti spatter paste is my go to. Works great on aluminum and iron, clean burrs and cool burrs. No more WD-40. I don't use non ferrus bits unless I'm hogging a big chunk anymore.
That is great info! Ive got some of that at home, never thought to re-purpose it
I find high quality air tools with front exhaust solve a lot of these problems with tools jumping and clogging. Crosscuts work pretty well on aluminum in my experience.
Thanks for an excellent presentation on using the proper tools and the porting sequence.
I have been looking for a video like this for a long time.
Thanks for watching.
Not only informative but funny as well. Good job.
I use Dotco air grinders that I acquired from years of welding and precision grinding of SA-240 stainless steels. Start and stops are the most important techniques that must be learned to become a decent porter. No undercut!
Awesome content. Thank you.
Hey good job I learned a lot keep spreading the word my man
I am going to try my hand at porting a set of gm corvette heads off my zz3 crate motor. I have had the engine for 28 years and the only thing I have done is put flat tops in it and had the heads milled once. I used it with a plate kit for years and it ran pretty good. I am going to up grade the cam and port the heads and turbo charge it and see how it does like that.. Liking your channel
Thanks for the tips!
Pure gold !
Mid 1990s I ported for a shop that had a down draft porting bench. It would suck away all the dust.
If i remember I used a dab of grease on the burr. Porting was done in a closed room in the dirty part of the shop.
I used to do alot of big block iron heads...Lots of fun.
Thanks for the info going to try and clean up an old set of ford heads!
Liked this video a lot. I have ported cast iron back at the time Chev. introduced the BowTie heads. Took forever to do a port job on them as you said and tools wear out. I use the long shank on most jobs for same reason you do, vision. If I get some tool chatter I slip on heavy leather welding gloves and stablize the long shank with fingers on the other hand. Good to hear you say how critical the shape of the throat and the chamber side of the seat is. Don't know if you have ever mentioned this as I don't have time to watch all your vids, but the reason it is so important is because of the damn poppet valves we all are using to let the mixtures in and out. Poppet valves suck in general. But no one has come up with another way that doesn't break the bank to implement. Smokey Yunick spent many hours studying the effects of the poppet valves and how to get the mixture around those big air flow blockers. When you get about half inch of lift off seat you start to see big flow improvement but then one side of the poppet valve is getting close to the chamber or cylinder wall for another blocking effect.
What is a poppet valve?
Anyone else bust out to laughing when they saw the shavings on top of that spray can? 😂🤣😂🤣 he been grinding his ass of is the first Thang that came to mind 😂🤣😂🤣
Thanks for video!
I don’t know if you cover this in the video as I’m writing this early on..
But you’re talking about the burr wobbling/dancing and jumping around, something I found that you can do with the long shank burrs is to either use a glove or a shop rag to hold the shank with your other hand to help control it.. which of course you want to be careful when using something like a rag and keep it from getting caught up in the hex adjustment/tightening lug on the end of the die grinder..
and what I’ve done before was to take a small piece of material such as cloth or a small piece of leather, (an inch or two wide; or whatever width you would need to be able to grasp it) and put it around the shank and put a couple wraps of electrical tape around it (I mean put the tape only around the cloth/leather strip itself, and not the shank of the cutting burr, so it’ll be able to spin freely inside of it) to give you something to hold onto and you can make it to where there’s no loose ends or anything to get caught in the chuck
I use doff oil. Dip the burr in it. Shake the excess off and put the burr in the middle of the port, "free air" then spin it. I'm the port, it will "spray" a fine film inside the port and prevent "clogging"
Eric great video
Ty ,great vid
CHI stuff is made in Australia from Aussie aluminium. I didn't know it was stronger but aussie alloy has a reputation for polishing up alot better than the stuff from America.
Thank you for putting videos out!
"flipping the head" works best for me too.
More Bbc heads.
Eric you were asking about ideas. There is a growing youtube channel called nivlac57. He is using a vortech inline 6 cylinder out of the Chevy Colorado's and is currently building them around 500ish i think. He was featured on Fasterproms youtube which has a ton of subscribers. I think it would be awesome for you guys to do a collaboration. There is no real aftermarket for these engines yet but this engine proves to be a holding well on stock bottom end. No head work has been done yet and Id like to see what a ported head from a pro that cares would do.
I'd be interested in seeing what airflow gains are obtained by dressing the area around the valve within the combustion chamber. (Like what you showed at the end of this video.) Great videos. Love the content.
There’s a really cool old guy that wrote a program for head flow very interesting to see him poured it and then test it
Thanks mate for spending the time to show your technique it made me confident in how I have been doing my porting and reminded me to use better form when I get inpatient and start going back and forth to much! Lol.
Would you consider doing a tech episode on chamber modifications to get more flow through the heads, maybe with big block and small block head's the different ways each is approached and before and after flow tests.
Thanks again for your work.
Very informative and educational. What brand or make of rotary burr do you use. I have used single cut after a crosscut, at low speed and dipped in a WD-40. If I have any clogging, I have a round mini-file with a cone shaped sharpened tip to scrape out the bits. Looking forward to your next video.
I'm a big fan of Royal Purple product's, however have you ever tryed Boelube made by Orolube specifically manufactured for Boeing Corp. It comes in 3 consistency depending on the material you're working with. It keeps your bits sharp and double cut burs won't load up with aluminum, but a lot of material can be removed quickly with it..They also make a stick looks like a short fat roll of chap stick for sanding rolls that extends their life..Love your video's, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us..
Those exhaust throats at 12:46 are some of the worst I have ever seen. Another great video.
Great info, thanks. Wish I'd seen it before I ravaged the ports on my VW 1192 heads. I made all the mistakes you described, and the heads look like they were ported with a hatchet. I mainly had trouble in corners where the cutter would climb and bounce around. Had better success with a slower speed tool.
Hi...Very good tips for porting..can you give your opinion pros and cons about dimple/golf ball porting compared to smooth satin look porting?...thanks alot for sharing knowledge...very good video 👍👍👍
I prefer the longer shank burs aswell. I found i get better control using my second hand as a rest.
Cool, thanks
Very cool
A must see.
,,,,,,,,,,,,,thanks again Eric.............................................
I’ll take a 1/4” diameter mandrel for sanding rolls and cut the threaded tip off, and Then I’ll cut a 2” slit down the center of the mandrel for scotch bright. works great.
Video on measuring what length valves you need with a given spring/ retainer.
I'd like to see what can be done with some bbc peanut port heads. I think they are a under rated street engine head. Maybe some simple modifications can a long way with them.
Also play with the depth in the collet to make the grinder run smoothly
I would really like to see a video going over valve seat angle, and how it effects flow.
I think you should do a quick series on ls cathedral heads. A quick porting guide for the noobs to maximise gains. grind here, grind there, bingo this is what cfm you'll get type of deal
Bbc oval port too
Yeah, he should spend his time to give you free information that will get you 75-80% of the result he could get. Because you're not wanting to spend money to go faster. Or maybe you just think the man should freely give away the skills he has taken decades to develop. Maybe you should go to work and tell your employer you want to work for free today. Seriously, do you hear yourself? You disrespect the man and the professional porter by even hinting they should give you free power. He's giving you free hints and tricks, and if you pay attention to his porting vids he is telling you how to methodically develop a port. Go slow, pay a local shop to flow the port for you as you make changes and practice on junk heads, or pony up the cash and pay to have your heads ported dude
@@b.c4066 lol
@@b.c4066 jeez man he was just suggesting something to do, after all if your wanting to make a buck on UA-cam you gotta get the views and what better way than to put up videos where guys can get real results.
Please give your best demonstration and explanation of transition from bowl to throat ( short and long side) and seat to chamber. Also what you like for seat placement and widths on intake and exhaust valves. Do you back cut int. and ex. valves? Do you radius blend the back cut on int. valve?
Can you cover what must be avoided, and mistakes ?. Thanks from Scotland.
Try the Mondello lube. Goodson sells it. Better than the wax like stuff (including wax) I have used edge lube and other products and it's too messy inside the port in comparison. Also try using an old bronze guide on the shank of the cutter so you can hold it out near the cutting point. I put my other hand at the back of the grinder, the further apart your two hands are, the more leverage, control.
Nice tips (lol no pun)in this video for beginners like me. You seem very comfortable porting, how long have you been doing it..? thx.
Your sound effects crack me up. LOL
Eric, you mentioned a "pink" stone. Do you have a reference to the video showing its use? Thanks and keep up the good videos!
Question, how you ever put valve seats in a aluminum head, if so can you please do show step by step how. There's plenty of cast iron videos. Basically the size of tolerances. Do you heat head and freeze seat? Thanks
Where did you buy the carbide burs, sorry for asking
What causes the guid to break off? I got a set of darts from a round tracker and some of the guides was broke off like if you were looking at a clock it would be pointed at 945 ported pretty heavy
Valve job's already done, Sal.😂
where do you purchase your carbide burrs?
Do you try to taper to increase velocity or just remove as much as you can for volume
What do you think of "Extrude Hone" porting process?
I want to ask you a question, not sure if you'll read it, so maybe someone else can chime in that actually knows. How do 2 valve heads compare to 4 valve heads in porting? You can find tons of info/books on 2 valve heads, porting techniques, and so on. Very little on 4 valve heads. Are the principals pretty much the same, or does the edition of more valves change things too much? Secondly I've had a few heads where the pressed in seat insert, is smaller than the bowl it was pressed into giving a ridge (inside diameter of the seat doesn't blend with the factory bowl). Is that seat to bowl area the throat? and would you want to blend/roll that edge of the seat back to meet the larger bowl? This is just questions for personal knowledge stuff, for my cars.
how do you prevent your hands from going numb? Part of my left index finder is still numb 3 months later. Doctor said its permanent nerve damage from vibration of the die grinder.
Light dimmer switches (rotary dial) is rated for 120 volts give that a try to vary the RPM on the die grinder, it's cheap. Mount the switch in a elect box (plastic) so you wont get shocked. Have you tried the machine fluid as a lube, cheap and you got it on hand.
Only works with non soft start grinders .. if you can get it rigged up to a dimmer lol.
Rubbing alcohol is the best coolant for aluminum that I have found
Really enjoyed watching these recently and the tech and math on throat diameter vs valve diameter. Would really like to see a segment where you compare flow for forced induction vs NA on the same head, and what you do differently for FI builds from a porting standpoint. Particularly interested to see if the 91% rule is the same for a ported head for FI.
I assume you'd need to run the flow bench at a higher pressure to see if the air in the runners and un the chamber behaves the same under boost?
👍💪
Eric.. Dumb question.. How do you NOT end up with runners with 4 different volumes when you port like this? Or is the difference so minor that it mostly doesn't matter? I keep thinking of the chamber volume measuring I've watched in the past.. If chamber volume matters, why wouldn't port volume? Thanks!
At about 40 cents a bar Ivory soap works good to keep them from clogging.
I cut mine down to 3-4" depending on what I'm using them for.
Eric very good video !Please go back to the CHI manifold and teach us about how you machine the humps out of the plenum and even the length on the 4 corner long runners.
Nobody ever talks about the height of the valve guide in the bowl. Example world sport2 guide boss. It's enormous and no way could I not shape em. I made the ridge inline with the port center and ground em to a point behind the valve. Made sure to maintain port bias measured several points so ea guide boss got ground the same. Then I learned about core shift. Ea port the boss was drifting off to one side a couple thousands. That got my measurements off and the boss got really thin on the last 2. I had to cut the guide .125ish to establish enough material around the valve that wouldn't chip off. How short can the guide be b4 you get into trouble?
Good
I ported a Set of 265 2 Bbl. Small Port Heads out to Accept a Z28 Intake on my 56 265 at 14 y.o. With a Eléctric Drill and Grinding Stones the Drill got so Hot I Needed to Wear Leather Gloves.. Im thinking it took like 3, 4 hrs. Per Port I Knew ABSOLUTELY nothing about it only had the GASKET as a Guide. The Outside of the Ports where paper thin and one Port Needed a Spot of JB. Weld.. That motor Ran like a Raped Ape with a 350/ 350 H. P. CAM, BIG Tube Hookers and 600 Holley in 1971..
Hard work usually pays off.
Any plastic intake porting tips???
This is great info on grinding techniques and how to get at various parts of the port. How about some guidance on specific mods to SBC, BBC, or LS heads that an amateur could try without ruining the heads? I think you did some bowl work on LS3 heads a while back that made some very significant gains. What part of that could we do to maybe get 50 or 75% of your results? Personally, I think I’d just send them to you!
Who do you use for sharpening your carbide burrs?
Who do you buy your carbide burrs from?
Can't speak for burrs but the machinists at the last 3 shops I've worked at send out all the carbide milling tools to a local jobber to have them resharpened.
Amateur is some one does it for fun and professional is someone who does it to get paid.
👍
I put one of those into a dye grinder with no speed control and turn it on and the vibration was so violent that it scared me and then it bent at a 45° angle and became the most dangerous thing ever... This was many years ago by the way not recently
My girlfriend actually refers to me as “Long Shank.”
I always wear a glove with my left hand and kind of brace the shank on the rasp. I'm about as amateur as they come but I can tell you once they wobble or bang and get even the slightest bend they are basically useless. Lol
I'm about to port a Isuzu G161 small port head. I haven't tried porting since I was an apprentice lololololololololololololol, that was a dud set of heads.
I have a lot of burs for other jobs in the workshop so I'll see what I can do.
Great content. I've been watching David Vizard for a while and you two seem to be similar in a few ways. I think you do more drag race all out performance and he does really nice street engines. Do you favor any corner of the chamber and just clean up the opposite side ? Where do you purchase your carbides from? Thanks so much.
Vizard has been building top race engines for decades. He also builds street engines.
Enjoyed your video! I live in OKC you happen to know of a good machine shop around this area? I'm looking to have a shop do some work on my 5.7 Hemi stroker build. Also do you see good improvement in porting the Eagle Heads that come stock on the 5.7 hemi's? Was thinking about checking into having you do some work on my heads I beleive your not to far from me. Thanks!
You might try Henson. I still have yet to flow a hemi heads.
@@WeingartnerRacing Thanks for responding, I will look him up. Would you be able to check them over and do some work on them? Not sure how busy you are or your turn around time but I would be interested if you have the time?
I’d like to see something on measuring cross sectional area
I’ve done videos on that.
Must be nice to be on a level were you can say "I dont do cast iron anymore". That's all I do. I've never dun aluminum. But I just do my own stuff as a hobby. I dont have a business doing it. Lol! I weld to get money for car parts.
Helicopter lure......ting ting ting
Could you do a video on intake runner dimpling I have always been intrigued on where and when to use this method. And if you do not use that approach why?
Darin said it might help if port is too big.
I've seen a test of 3 different finishes dimple, lines , n .. rough finish I think ... they all did relatively the same think .
Do not use cutting fluids or wd40. Basics of metal101
Haha, yeah, I was using cutting fluid on a cast iron block and my dad (machinist) gave a me a stern correction. It drilled much easier DRY! 😯
I'm doing a set of duramax heads now , exhaust side is mostly done , any information on how wide i can make exhaust port , and how far can I raise roof on intake side .
I’ve never done a duramax head.
Rubbing alcohol is the best coolant I have found
ever tried the high helix burrs? They seem way easier to control to me.
No only because I don’t know where to get them.
@@WeingartnerRacing headgamesmotorworks.com/
www.ruffstuff.com/
these two places sell them, they really are a revelation, so much easier to control, almost no bouncing.
Do you ever worry about grinding through the head bolt or pushrod guide?
Break through head bolts all the time. That’s not a big deal. Most times I sleeve them.
Emery cloth has oil on it, sand cloth doesn't
killer info mate! do you ever do any chrysler small block stuff? would be great to see some basics on a set of edelbrock rpm chrysler small block heads but when your half way through so you can show us un-touched as a comparison.
I never have. I can but I don’t have the fixture to flow them.
It’s called frequency.
Do a Steve Morrison reacts
OMG the comments on stuff to unclog burrs....
Guys anything will do it, when I was doing steering and suspension we used to use power steering oil in a squirt bottle from the 60l drum.
Erric. Please use a pointer, or a sharpened chopstick.
I like. Agree with everyting except anti-clogging lube. Give beeswax a try. i would like to know your thoughts after.
I worked in an aluminum and magnesium foundry years ago. We use nothing but bees wax not only on cutters but sanding disc as well. All our tools were pneumatic. The difficulty is parts that were heat treated and then needed and area reground. The material becomes very hard.
Forgot to say always wear a good face shield! Brock the shank on a 1" round nose cutter turning at 20,000 rpm. It really can move your head!