@@bigboreracing356 One that is accurate and repeatable. I choose SF600 because it is the workhorse of the industry. It is huge, heavy, expensive, burns enough power to light up a small city.
I definitely like the real time (the term I'm sure you were thinking of) videos. I noticed you using a valve or other means to control the speed of the die grinder. So I did learn something.
Another thing I’d like to see you do is revisit the stock gt40 head and document where you start with the factory head and what areas to address first. I’ve seen you explain what you did with an already ported head but I would like to see you start with a clean sheet of paper 😉
When chasing flow on the intake up to lifts equal to 25% of the valve's diameter, the throat and valve job angles all need to be perfectly concentric with the valve it seems. The first move I make is to grind a stone the exact diameter of the throat I want and leave it at 90°. Burn it down into the bowl 30% of the bowl depth. That sets up where the shortside turn needs to be blended into and also where the valve job cuts end. I don't know if it's the best way but it should get me close to what a good single cutter seat and guide machine can deliver. Valve should see full curtain airflow up to .25/valve dia and if the angles and width are right flow should be good to pull on the port at maximum piston speed down the bore.
I would like to see you shape the correct short side on a head that really needs it. Since it is at the top of the important areas to address in a cylinder head.
Just me, in the first part, thinking I’d have started with Dykem on the valve seat, and done a 60 degree undercut, to get a uniform seat and transition, before doing the blend, kinda as you did in the second part, with the oversized seat. Order of operations, makes for a big difference quality and avoiding “got ya’s”… Good stuff, and thanks for sharing.
I’m glad that you still cut iron heads. Most guys on here won’t touch iron any more and that is what most budget guys are using. Don’t you have to be careful to not blow the throat out too big in this area?
@servediocylinderheads ,,, well it's too late once you remove the cutter , but mount a dial indicator ( however it takes ) to the main body of the grinder and check it . I could be wrong but it sure sounded like it was bouncing from runout ,,, !
Hi Charlie. Look at that, so easy anyone could do it.....after 35 years of experience. You do make it look easy. Thanks Andrew
40+ but nobody is counting!
It is easy, anybody could do it!
@@bigboreracing356 Practice! And measure alot.
@@bigboreracing356 One that is accurate and repeatable. I choose SF600 because it is the workhorse of the industry. It is huge, heavy, expensive, burns enough power to light up a small city.
Great video, not boring at all.
Thanks
Good Tv, satisfying like an old chair or a comfort food like meatloaf. I'll be back for more.
You’re going to start seeing Charlie’s videos next to the pimple popping vids. lol
Good video Charlie
Thanks
Absolutely put a lot into perspective ..great work sir
Thanks, Clark
Anxious to see how they flow!
It helped. Thanks
I definitely like the real time (the term I'm sure you were thinking of) videos. I noticed you using a valve or other means to control the speed of the die grinder. So I did learn something.
Scr speed controllers
Another thing I’d like to see you do is revisit the stock gt40 head and document where you start with the factory head and what areas to address first. I’ve seen you explain what you did with an already ported head but I would like to see you start with a clean sheet of paper 😉
I am pretty sure I did a full gt40 work up from stock to finish. Thanks
Gonna go check n see. 🎉
When chasing flow on the intake up to lifts equal to 25% of the valve's diameter, the throat and valve job angles all need to be perfectly concentric with the valve it seems. The first move I make is to grind a stone the exact diameter of the throat I want and leave it at 90°. Burn it down into the bowl 30% of the bowl depth. That sets up where the shortside turn needs to be blended into and also where the valve job cuts end. I don't know if it's the best way but it should get me close to what a good single cutter seat and guide machine can deliver. Valve should see full curtain airflow up to .25/valve dia and if the angles and width are right flow should be good to pull on the port at maximum piston speed down the bore.
My set will not cut 90 degrees. It will vibrate and break the stone. Thanks
I would like to see you shape the correct short side on a head that really needs it. Since it is at the top of the important areas to address in a cylinder head.
Not even possible to video I think. Thanks
Thankyou heaps for sharing your knowledge . Very much appreciated
You are welcome.
you do good work Charles, wish you were closer and I could send you a set of my heads to work on! That dull burr does put a nice finish on there!
Shipping is stupid expensive! I had Wiffy and her Mom deliver the Jag heads to D.V.! Thanks
Just me, in the first part, thinking I’d have started with Dykem on the valve seat, and done a 60 degree undercut, to get a uniform seat and transition, before doing the blend, kinda as you did in the second part, with the oversized seat.
Order of operations, makes for a big difference quality and avoiding “got ya’s”…
Good stuff, and thanks for sharing.
I like it. Thanks
I’m glad that you still cut iron heads. Most guys on here won’t touch iron any more and that is what most budget guys are using. Don’t you have to be careful to not blow the throat out too big in this area?
Throats ratio is very tight on both ports. Thanks
Good stuff, DV's low budget technique of using a cut up roloc disc for a radius under the seat works great on the exhaust.
Be sure to touch the seat with a stone after that.
Hi charlie what angle good for exhaust intake seat?
Good but would have been nice to see if the changes helped or hurt
You can look up flow test 1.94"/1.5" to 2.02"/1.6" and see the wins and losses.
i like the ex. smooth so carbon doesnt build up as EZ
Does that make a difference? Build up of carbon is usually coked oil from leaky guides.
I have never seen extra smooth make a difference. Focus on shape.
@@Comet-hn3gm I use testures to fine tune. Thanks
That first cutter has toooo much runout ; however you handled it ,,, !
It did?
@servediocylinderheads ,,, well it's too late once you remove the cutter , but mount a dial indicator ( however it takes ) to the main body of the grinder and check it . I could be wrong but it sure sounded like it was bouncing from runout ,,, !
@@rolandtamaccio3285 It is 20 + years old!
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
Thanks
Thanks Charlie! v/r wh
No idea what that means. Sorry
I’m not sure what that comment was in the email confirmation of your reply. Not mine. I just said thanks. v/r wh
@@williamherring5441 I had to look up what that means. I think I get it. Thanks
Perhaps should have said could watch your burr for hrs😂
I don't run that kind of channel!
Charlie could watch you work for hours. Way more educational than listening to you speak. No offence intended
Ouch....
ASMR for hot rodders.
Turn on the amplifiers and crank it up?
A lot lol
?
😂 doing it by hand is a joke and waste of time chasing flow balance. If you have to use the CNC machine
You should buy me one! Thanks
lol