From one Mississippian to another , That's that southern hospitality I'm talkin bout. LOVE IT,LOVE IT, I LOVE IT !! man this video was so clear and informational. I preciate this help !!!
Times are hard my brother and I appreciate every bit of effort that you have put into trying to help the rest of us during this struggle. Peace and health to you and yours, Jim
Was having the same problem I took my car to ger checked and they said it was the sensor. Shop wanted to charge me $500 to change it. I say no thank you. So, Shop only charge for $80 me to find out what the problem was. I started to look in you tube and i found your video I did same thing you did I have the the Lincoln zephyr 06 and coulnt find the sensor so did just like you i order one from Ford fusion. And it worked!!. You a life saver sir! 👍 You save me hundreds of dollars!! Thanks!.
If you just want to bypass the evaporator temperature sensor, you can just stick an adjustable resistor instead of getting a new temp sensor. Potentiometer set between 100 ohms and 100k ohms should be okay to replace any 2 wire sensor if system is happy with static sensor value. However, that should be considered a workaround, not a fix for A/C problems: this sensor is supposed to monitor the evaporator and avoid getting it frozen. Modern cars have adjustable A/C compressor and the system tries to run the evaporator around 4 °C (40 °F) when A/C is enabled. If the sensor sees higher temperature, the A/C compressor is pushed harder to bring down the temperature. If the sensor sees lower temperature, A/C compressor is adjusted to produce less cold. If you put a sensor outside the evaporator housing the system will be running the A/C compressor at full blast at all times and your evaporator ends up freezing the water extracted from the incoming air. If you run short enough drives or toggle the A/C off manually every now and then, this workaround might be okay. However, if you go for a long drive with a setup such as this, your evaporator could freeze as a solid block of ice and the freezing ice might end up breaking the evaporator which is even harder to replace than the workshop way of replacing this sensor. Either way, if your sensor bypass tells the system that the evaporator temperature is more than ~ 4 °C the system will basically maximize your fuel usage and compressor wear.
thanks a million! I checked out behind my glove box and lo and behold there was a resistor in the same place. I reseated it so it made good contact and it works....it was just loose. Appreciate the heads up. The quote i got was for 500-600 bucks and the freon charge that i paid 100 for probably didnt even need it. thanks again for sharing.
I read that thermistor resistance can increase over time (Thermometric Drift), they are NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) as temperature goes down resistance goes up and vice versa, so it will turn off the compressor at a higher temperature over time as resistance increases, these are used now in place of the low side pressure sensor.
Thank you Renaissance Mann! Like you I like saving money, makes me feel good. I have a 2007 Cadillac CTS, similar problem, but I don't think I have to take the dash out, just a couple of panels. Shouldn't be bad at all. With the help of your video and a few others, I know exactly how I will tackle. thanks again Tom
i live on the Arkansas Mississippi border so we gots to have that A/C !! im about to try this now. thanks my friend ! southern hospitality is a real thing...
Hey, if you don’t mind me asking, what symptoms was your ac having? I have a 2011 MKZ hybrid and the ac will work for a half hour say, then start blowing warm air, then it might kick back on after a few miles.
I was just thinking the same. My gx 470 i notice when i have my fan on low. My compressor kick off and on every 5 seconds. Then when i have it high more air come through and it takes longer for the evap to cool so my compressor stay on longer. So im going to buy a new sensor and stick the probe inside the foot hose that way it gets some sort of reading instead of ac full blast and freeze my evap. I will try both. You the man.
Damn that is pure genius on that. car engineers can do this and just make it simple. They always have to make it complex. What AWG wires do you need though?
Nissan Xtrail X-trail Rogue T32 2015. Aircondition started to work erraticaly. Then, I would work for first 10 seconds and switch off the compressor. The issue was this very same sensor, except it is easier to take out than from this car. I didn't have new sensor at hand, so I used 2K resistor instead of sensor. Now works beautifully!! Thanks
I have a 07 MKZ my ac works when the car is cold however once the car is warmed up it stops working. So for example i turn it of an wait like 4-5 hours it will work for a bit then stop working..Any ideas?
Your AC is cycling because you replaced the evaporative temp sensor but rather than replacing the original, you put a new one which is now located under the glove box? The other bypass method is using a thermsistor but that could have your compressor freeze under certain conditions right? I am curious if you have the evaporative temp sensor under the glove box, will it work the same way as if you replaced the original in the original place?
Question, when you took the car to the dealer did they just say it was the evaporator? I took mine to the dealership and in my invoice it says “partial ac check & leak test performed, Needs evaporator” I have a Ford F-250 and they’re telling me $1900 for the fix 😂 everything seems to be working but the ac is just blowing hot air when it’s cold out it blows fairly cold but that’s cause it’s pulling air in from outside I get that but I’m going to give this sensor thing a try I really hope it works I’d love to not drop 2gs on a truck I’m about to get rid of for a new one but nobody is gonna buy a truck without ac…..
Can I place the evaporator temp sensor right under the HVAC box, will it work the same way? or where is the best location to put the sensor without cutting a hole in the HVAC box?
i on the other hand continually surf for 665 likes, views , comments, subscribers, and have a nice stack of screenshots around 50 now, of me being the 666th of those, i LOVE it !
Was the low pressure line cold or warm? I’m my f150 it’s warm-hot. The compressor is brand new. Flushed the condenser multiple times. Wondering if this could be my issue, too
Hi there, I have a Ford Escape 2011, the A/C started to work in a very strange way. The system goes from 60 degrees (cool air) and jumping directly to 65 degrees where the air becomes blowing hot. Anyone has had a similar problem?
I’m gunna ask this…I’m a dummy lol but I have the wires and the evap temp sensor. Do I need some type of connectors for the wire towards the evap temp sensor or could I just shove both ends of the wire (unstripped) onto the 2 pieces sticking from the evap temp sensor?
I have a Ford F150 2009 (Lariat) and it is not blowing cold, it blows colder when I drive fast but not when idle, it used to a few years ago. I replaced ALL other parts (compressor, AC expansion valve, Evap core, condenser, and hoses. still not cold, maybe 55-65 range. So maybe this is my problem? the freon is perfect. So I am wondering if my truck as a similar sensor.
Try getting the system evacuated and recharged buy be sure they hold the vacuum for at least an hour to clear out any moisture in the system. If that doesn't work I would suspect the desiccant bag
Thanks for the educational video. I tried this and it worked well in the beginning. Now the AC is working intermittently. Would you know the cause for that?
Probably burnt out your compressor. The reason why they are inside the evaporator box is because they are set to work at certain temperatures. Once you put them in the cab the compressor over works and burns out or seizes.
@@danielistratoaie3301 I have a 07 MKZ my ac works when the car is cold however once the car is warmed up it stops working. So for example i turn it of an wait like 4-5 hours it will work for a bit then stop working..Any ideas?
@@letsgonow5641 Your system probably has too little refrigerant or the A/C pressure is too high. If the system hasn't been inspected during last few years, I'd get the refrigerant replaced. (The official way to adjust the refrigerant is to first suck everything out with a vacuum and then add vehicle specific amount in weight, usually 500 - 1000 g. Any pressure based method will be much worse.)
@@MikkoRantalainen Hi Mikko..My dad keeps messing around with it to the point that he actually fainted...We had put a new compressor in..I keep telling him its best if we take it somewhere..i know money is tight but sometimes you just have no choice...
@@letsgonow5641 If you don't have time to learn to do this yourself, the best option is to take it to local A/C specialist. Do not take it to dealership unless its under warranty if you prefer to keep as much money as possible yourself.
Hello sir! it's been since 3 years now but I really appreciate your efforts. Please I would like to know how you got to that green connector. I am illiterate concerning cars but I can do things when I know how to get to that specific point where you connected your evap temp sensor. Thanks God bless!!
if you have the same car, al he did was open the glove box and pull it down to the floor. Look for a video how to remove the glove box or dashboard of your car and you will see the steps to get to that green connector.
Hi there. Does it matter which wire is hooked onto the bottom of the Evap sensor connectors? Or are they interchangeable? Going to try this on my 2011 mkz
There is no 3rd wire on a 2012 Fusion...When I cut #15 (blue/gray wire) no air blows at all. This one has to stay connected otherwise there's no air. Disconnecting #13 (purple/brown) doesn't have any effect on air blowing. Any ideas?
Hi their Can this problem cause the aircon to blow cool on driver side and cold on passenger side. I have checked both vent actuators they are working fine. It is a Honda accord CP2 2.4 l 2009 model, climate control aswell. I have got refrigerant in it, and when I change temperature from hot to cold it still works, just not in the driver side, only goes from hot to cool only. Passenger side is good from hot to cold. what do you think the problem is??
It will not cycle, the evap sensor would make sure to do this but since it is not doing its work then the computer will not know that the evaporator is freezed and will not tell the compressor to shut down
This is why I love the way cars are becoming so complex n heard to work. Cz some people will know n they will teach others just to prevent dm from going to the garage or making money over it. That's not good. If u want to work on cars u have to go n learn just like every1 else and make it as a carrier 4 dt matter.
I bought splitting connectors but I just stuck the in the back of the harness to see if it work with a paper clip and when the cold air started blowing i was so excited that I never connected them the right way 🙄🙄 but it's been over a year and it still working
I used a paper clip pushed the strip end all the way down. I can buy wire taps from autozone to make sure u got a good connection..Are u sure u are tapping in to the correct wire? Make sure the compressor is not bad.. I removed my AC compressor relay and stuck wire in various ports and the compressor kick on.. that's how I figure out it wasn't the compressor
My compressor brand new. I want to try making a better connection I just shoved them for back in as I can. So I can buy connectors at autozone and disconnect the 3rd and 4th wire?
So I understand using a t tap to tap into the right wires. But how did you connect the wires to bottom of temp sensor it’s so small couldn’t find any connectors to hold solid to the two metal outlets on bottom
If u are not a mechanic or technician, there is no way you can escape from the garage cz everything is computerized n u must get d foundation in working on d late model cars of 2day
From an engineering standpoint, this will cause an issue in some vehicles. This type of bypass should be approached with knowing that on certain models, the computer will have no way of reading the temperature of the A/C evaporator is inside the HVAC HAA / HAD / Airbox thus, if it is icing up, the controller will keep the compressor energized thus inducing expensive damage to the evaporator core. When that occurs, you'll lose the oil in the system and the compressor will get red hot and seize up - often igniting something under the hood thus resulting in a CAR-B-Q event on the side of the freeway. Consumers need to be aware of that and how A/C failsafe systems function by design. Now, if one were doing this with just the internal cabin thermistor - this isn't a problem and is doable / safe. But, if one is jumping the evap core - you've just removed the failsafe mechanism to cut power to the compressor and can lead to catastrophic failure which will be quite costly. When the AC Core blows-up, contamination enters the HVAC system thus leading to every component having to be replaced. Approach with caution on this mod. IN a temporary - band-aid, it may be worth a risk but, even at that, there may be a reason why the OEM sensor went out in the first place.
Thanks so much for this video! Not only did I learn about this a/c fix, I learned about a great guy who’s trying to help anyone wiling to listen. It’s hard to find a good example of humanity not screwed up by nonsense in today’s world of “woke”. God Bless!
@@renaissancemann8997 iced evaporator tends to happen when you drive longer distance on the highway. It rarely happen in city driving. When icing happen, you'll notice there's little or no air flow through the vent. you might have to manually turn the air compressor on/off manually to prevent compressor damage. It's still better than spending 1 grand though. Thanks for posting!
After doing this, you will have no heater and your climate control most likely won't work. You will need to hook back your hold evap sensor every winter and you will not be able to change the ventilation flow ( I mean if you want the air to come out from the front or both front and bottom and so on...)
That evaporator is going to start freezing up and that temperature sensor that he installed just hanging outside is going to catch on fire when it gets too hot .
From one Mississippian to another , That's that southern hospitality I'm talkin bout. LOVE IT,LOVE IT, I LOVE IT !! man this video was so clear and informational. I preciate this help !!!
Times are hard my brother and I appreciate every bit of effort that you have put into trying to help the rest of us during this struggle. Peace and health to you and yours, Jim
Thanks for the video and information. I did this fix to my 2007 Ford Fusion. It's hot here in the Ozarks. It will hold me over until it cools off. 👍🏻
Was having the same problem I took my car to ger checked and they said it was the sensor. Shop wanted to charge me $500 to change it. I say no thank you. So, Shop only charge for $80 me to find out what the problem was. I started to look in you tube and i found your video I did same thing you did I have the the Lincoln zephyr 06 and coulnt find the sensor so did just like you i order one from Ford fusion. And it worked!!. You a life saver sir! 👍
You save me hundreds of dollars!! Thanks!.
If you just want to bypass the evaporator temperature sensor, you can just stick an adjustable resistor instead of getting a new temp sensor. Potentiometer set between 100 ohms and 100k ohms should be okay to replace any 2 wire sensor if system is happy with static sensor value. However, that should be considered a workaround, not a fix for A/C problems: this sensor is supposed to monitor the evaporator and avoid getting it frozen. Modern cars have adjustable A/C compressor and the system tries to run the evaporator around 4 °C (40 °F) when A/C is enabled. If the sensor sees higher temperature, the A/C compressor is pushed harder to bring down the temperature. If the sensor sees lower temperature, A/C compressor is adjusted to produce less cold. If you put a sensor outside the evaporator housing the system will be running the A/C compressor at full blast at all times and your evaporator ends up freezing the water extracted from the incoming air. If you run short enough drives or toggle the A/C off manually every now and then, this workaround might be okay. However, if you go for a long drive with a setup such as this, your evaporator could freeze as a solid block of ice and the freezing ice might end up breaking the evaporator which is even harder to replace than the workshop way of replacing this sensor. Either way, if your sensor bypass tells the system that the evaporator temperature is more than ~ 4 °C the system will basically maximize your fuel usage and compressor wear.
yeaaaa…. i think im going to just buy it
Thank you sir for taking the time to show and share what you have learned!
Very well done sir. A lot more informative and understandable than other guys.
Gonna try it.
Thanks for the video, I'm going to try this out over the weekend!
thanks a million! I checked out behind my glove box and lo and behold there was a resistor in the same place. I reseated it so it made good contact and it works....it was just loose. Appreciate the heads up. The quote i got was for 500-600 bucks and the freon charge that i paid 100 for probably didnt even need it. thanks again for sharing.
I'm glad the video helped. After my quote I rode around 3 week in blazing Mississippi heat until I decide I was going find away to get some a/c
@@renaissancemann8997 Did your AC ever go out?
Good video. When someone shares a video to help others I don't understand why people are rude and leave mean comments. Keep up the great work
Thanks for sharing! Same problem with a F250, will try this. Thanks for lifting the weight off of my mind, take care!
I read that thermistor resistance can increase over time (Thermometric Drift), they are NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) as temperature goes down resistance goes up and vice versa, so it will turn off the compressor at a higher temperature over time as resistance increases, these are used now in place of the low side pressure sensor.
Just wanted to say thanks ! Just did this on mine, and works like a charm. All the best !
Thank you Renaissance Mann! Like you I like saving money, makes me feel good. I have a 2007 Cadillac CTS, similar problem, but I don't think I have to take the dash out, just a couple of panels. Shouldn't be bad at all. With the help of your video and a few others, I know exactly how I will tackle. thanks again Tom
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!! Working great. Saved my daughter 1K Thanks again. Keep up the great work!!
Love your work! Thank you Renaissance Mann! i believe my 2007 MKZ has the same problem!
This works better than the resistor bypass everyone's talking about no freezing to worry about ....
WOW, this worked for me! I just fixed my air in less than 30 minutes!!!! Thanks for posting sir!!!!!
Great!! I'm glad to help!!
I tried this but didn't work for mines..
i live on the Arkansas Mississippi border so we gots to have that A/C !! im about to try this now. thanks my friend ! southern hospitality is a real thing...
Hi I just disconnect the sensor plug and connected a 330 ohm resistor which works OK for $ 1 keep the good work up. JS
Thanks just did these to my Lincoln Zephyr works great 👍🏼👍🏼
I can not thank you enough Sir
Did everything as you did and 2 mins later Bingo,
Ice cold Air!!
TY
Lou
Hey, if you don’t mind me asking, what symptoms was your ac having? I have a 2011 MKZ hybrid and the ac will work for a half hour say, then start blowing warm air, then it might kick back on after a few miles.
You AC hasn’t frozen up has it?
@@joshdillon3517 no it hasn’t. Sometimes it won’t work right when I turn the car on.
Worked for me. Thanks for the video. Mine was 2 and 4. Nothing was in the third slot.
Thank you for this video man, this helped alot
Great vid man! Thanks a bunch!
I was just thinking the same. My gx 470 i notice when i have my fan on low. My compressor kick off and on every 5 seconds. Then when i have it high more air come through and it takes longer for the evap to cool so my compressor stay on longer. So im going to buy a new sensor and stick the probe inside the foot hose that way it gets some sort of reading instead of ac full blast and freeze my evap. I will try both.
You the man.
It would be a great fix if you can carefully relocate the new temp probe closer to the evap core output vent!
Damn that is pure genius on that. car engineers can do this and just make it simple. They always have to make it complex. What AWG wires do you need though?
What type and size of connectors did you use to connect the wires to the temperature sensor pins? I'm guessing you used 18 gauge wire.
Brilliant, thank you!
Hey Renaissance man. Awesome video. Would this fix apply to a 2011 MKZ hybrid? Ac will run one minute, then blow hot the next. Thanks!
Thank you so much man!
Going to try this on my 2012 MKZ. Where do you store the bypass sensor though? In the glove box?
You got a great voice and accent
What’s the size wire and connected you used?
Thank you very good information
I’m fixing to try this method. How do you know which wire out of the connector goes to which pin on the sensor itself?
Thank you, my brother. I have a question, what is the problem that may cause with the long time (I have a compressor without a clutch)
Nissan Xtrail X-trail Rogue T32 2015.
Aircondition started to work erraticaly. Then, I would work for first 10 seconds and switch off the compressor. The issue was this very same sensor, except it is easier to take out than from this car. I didn't have new sensor at hand, so I used 2K resistor instead of sensor. Now works beautifully!! Thanks
What kind of wire did you use?
I have a 07 MKZ my ac works when the car is cold however once the car is warmed up it stops working. So for example i turn it of an wait like 4-5 hours it will work for a bit then stop working..Any ideas?
I have a 2006 Ford fusion and the ac was working and today it stop working the ac line are freezeing up and the motor not blowing what kind i do
Thank you very much! Did your AC work occasionally before it stopped working?
that happens to me, it works occasionally
I think that is the problem in my F150 2009 Lariat. how do in find the wiring/pins for my truck ?
Nice work
thanks bro! im in AZ and dry heat or not its fkn HOT and my AC is broke so ima try it out! if it works ill edit my comment
Your AC is cycling because you replaced the evaporative temp sensor but rather than replacing the original, you put a new one which is now located under the glove box? The other bypass method is using a thermsistor but that could have your compressor freeze under certain conditions right? I am curious if you have the evaporative temp sensor under the glove box, will it work the same way as if you replaced the original in the original place?
Thanks!
Question was there a certain wire for each prong on the sensor. Sorry I know it been 2 years
Question, when you took the car to the dealer did they just say it was the evaporator? I took mine to the dealership and in my invoice it says “partial ac check & leak test performed, Needs evaporator” I have a Ford F-250 and they’re telling me $1900 for the fix 😂 everything seems to be working but the ac is just blowing hot air when it’s cold out it blows fairly cold but that’s cause it’s pulling air in from outside I get that but I’m going to give this sensor thing a try I really hope it works I’d love to not drop 2gs on a truck I’m about to get rid of for a new one but nobody is gonna buy a truck without ac…..
Can I place the evaporator temp sensor right under the HVAC box, will it work the same way? or where is the best location to put the sensor without cutting a hole in the HVAC box?
I enjoyed the video and it was helpful so you get the thumbs up. Even if it wasn't I had to get it to 667!
i on the other hand continually surf for 665 likes, views , comments, subscribers, and have a nice stack of screenshots around 50 now, of me being the 666th of those, i LOVE it !
My car is missing the 3rd wire on the green harness it’s the only wire that’s not THERE? Can I still do this?
does it work on aussie falcons?
Was the low pressure line cold or warm? I’m my f150 it’s warm-hot. The compressor is brand new. Flushed the condenser multiple times. Wondering if this could be my issue, too
Hi there, I have a Ford Escape 2011, the A/C started to work in a very strange way. The system goes from 60 degrees (cool air) and jumping directly to 65 degrees where the air becomes blowing hot. Anyone has had a similar problem?
Brotha, this is great. Unconventional, but, hey, if it worked for you, you win.
47K ohm resistor between 13 and 15 works great.
I’m gunna ask this…I’m a dummy lol but I have the wires and the evap temp sensor. Do I need some type of connectors for the wire towards the evap temp sensor or could I just shove both ends of the wire (unstripped) onto the 2 pieces sticking from the evap temp sensor?
Awesome!
What happen if my compressor is not pumping freon and my pressure is steady?
I have a Ford F150 2009 (Lariat) and it is not blowing cold, it blows colder when I drive fast but not when idle, it used to a few years ago. I replaced ALL other parts (compressor, AC expansion valve, Evap core, condenser, and hoses. still not cold, maybe 55-65 range. So maybe this is my problem? the freon is perfect. So I am wondering if my truck as a similar sensor.
Try getting the system evacuated and recharged buy be sure they hold the vacuum for at least an hour to clear out any moisture in the system. If that doesn't work I would suspect the desiccant bag
Thanks for the educational video. I tried this and it worked well in the beginning. Now the AC is working intermittently. Would you know the cause for that?
Probably burnt out your compressor. The reason why they are inside the evaporator box is because they are set to work at certain temperatures. Once you put them in the cab the compressor over works and burns out or seizes.
@@danielistratoaie3301 I have a 07 MKZ my ac works when the car is cold however once the car is warmed up it stops working. So for example i turn it of an wait like 4-5 hours it will work for a bit then stop working..Any ideas?
@@letsgonow5641 Your system probably has too little refrigerant or the A/C pressure is too high. If the system hasn't been inspected during last few years, I'd get the refrigerant replaced. (The official way to adjust the refrigerant is to first suck everything out with a vacuum and then add vehicle specific amount in weight, usually 500 - 1000 g. Any pressure based method will be much worse.)
@@MikkoRantalainen Hi Mikko..My dad keeps messing around with it to the point that he actually fainted...We had put a new compressor in..I keep telling him its best if we take it somewhere..i know money is tight but sometimes you just have no choice...
@@letsgonow5641 If you don't have time to learn to do this yourself, the best option is to take it to local A/C specialist. Do not take it to dealership unless its under warranty if you prefer to keep as much money as possible yourself.
Hey man i need to do this myself a/c working fine then next day blowing hot air and compressor not coming on. Which color wires go to each side
Is not about a color wire. Air con is way deep than u thing is not just what u see on the surface.
Hello sir! it's been since 3 years now but I really appreciate your efforts. Please I would like to know how you got to that green connector. I am illiterate concerning cars but I can do things when I know how to get to that specific point where you connected your evap temp sensor.
Thanks God bless!!
if you have the same car, al he did was open the glove box and pull it down to the floor. Look for a video how to remove the glove box or dashboard of your car and you will see the steps to get to that green connector.
Hi there. Does it matter which wire is hooked onto the bottom of the Evap sensor connectors? Or are they interchangeable? Going to try this on my 2011 mkz
No either wire should work
Genius!
Where is this located on 2009 ford flex ?
There is no 3rd wire on a 2012 Fusion...When I cut #15 (blue/gray wire) no air blows at all. This one has to stay connected otherwise there's no air. Disconnecting #13 (purple/brown) doesn't have any effect on air blowing. Any ideas?
From my recent research, when no 3rd wire is present, Then try the 2nd and 4th wire.
Goid vid !
Hey somebody know how to do know in nisssan juke . How to know the wire to connect the bypass. Thanks lll
Hi their
Can this problem cause the aircon to blow cool on driver side and cold on passenger side.
I have checked both vent actuators they are working fine.
It is a Honda accord CP2 2.4 l 2009 model, climate control aswell.
I have got refrigerant in it, and when I change temperature from hot to cold it still works, just not in the driver side, only goes from hot to cool only.
Passenger side is good from hot to cold.
what do you think the problem is??
Im sure you have figured this out by now, but you are having an issue with the blend door actuator
Now after you did that fix..
Is your compressor cycling on & off like normal operation
Or just always running..???
???
It will not cycle, the evap sensor would make sure to do this but since it is not doing its work then the computer will not know that the evaporator is freezed and will not tell the compressor to shut down
My compressor is still cycling
Is that the passenger glove box ?
Yes it's the passenger glove box
to think i took my whole car apart dash, steering wheel everything lol but i did it.
Which car?
And have you had any problems since
This is why I love the way cars are becoming so complex n heard to work. Cz some people will know n they will teach others just to prevent dm from going to the garage or making money over it. That's not good. If u want to work on cars u have to go n learn just like every1 else and make it as a carrier 4 dt matter.
How did you connect connectors to by pass
I bought splitting connectors but I just stuck the in the back of the harness to see if it work with a paper clip and when the cold air started blowing i was so excited that I never connected them the right way 🙄🙄 but it's been over a year and it still working
Or what is the correct way to do it. Cause just shoving wires in the back isn’t getting results?
I used a paper clip pushed the strip end all the way down. I can buy wire taps from autozone to make sure u got a good connection..Are u sure u are tapping in to the correct wire? Make sure the compressor is not bad.. I removed my AC compressor relay and stuck wire in various ports and the compressor kick on.. that's how I figure out it wasn't the compressor
My compressor brand new. I want to try making a better connection I just shoved them for back in as I can. So I can buy connectors at autozone and disconnect the 3rd and 4th wire?
So I understand using a t tap to tap into the right wires. But how did you connect the wires to bottom of temp sensor it’s so small couldn’t find any connectors to hold solid to the two metal outlets on bottom
Works until your compressor burns out from not cycling lol
Can do this for about 10 cents. Use a resistor
If u are not a mechanic or technician, there is no way you can escape from the garage cz everything is computerized n u must get d foundation in working on d late model cars of 2day
From an engineering standpoint, this will cause an issue in some vehicles. This type of bypass should be approached with knowing that on certain models, the computer will have no way of reading the temperature of the A/C evaporator is inside the HVAC HAA / HAD / Airbox thus, if it is icing up, the controller will keep the compressor energized thus inducing expensive damage to the evaporator core. When that occurs, you'll lose the oil in the system and the compressor will get red hot and seize up - often igniting something under the hood thus resulting in a CAR-B-Q event on the side of the freeway.
Consumers need to be aware of that and how A/C failsafe systems function by design. Now, if one were doing this with just the internal cabin thermistor - this isn't a problem and is doable / safe. But, if one is jumping the evap core - you've just removed the failsafe mechanism to cut power to the compressor and can lead to catastrophic failure which will be quite costly. When the AC Core blows-up, contamination enters the HVAC system thus leading to every component having to be replaced.
Approach with caution on this mod. IN a temporary - band-aid, it may be worth a risk but, even at that, there may be a reason why the OEM sensor went out in the first place.
😎
Thanks so much for this video! Not only did I learn about this a/c fix, I learned about a great guy who’s trying to help anyone wiling to listen. It’s hard to find a good example of humanity not screwed up by nonsense in today’s world of “woke”. God Bless!
Hi. Is this still working? thank you
It's been over a year and it still works fine. Only thing I noticed was my AC lines get ice on them on mild days
@@renaissancemann8997 I have a Ford fusion 2011 and I will try to do the same way. thank you for the answer.
@@renaissancemann8997 What part of Ms are you in? I'm in West Point.
@@DeeboComing Pickens
@@renaissancemann8997 iced evaporator tends to happen when you drive longer distance on the highway. It rarely happen in city driving. When icing happen, you'll notice there's little or no air flow through the vent. you might have to manually turn the air compressor on/off manually to prevent compressor damage. It's still better than spending 1 grand though. Thanks for posting!
ive been rolling with the windows down for 2 years lhh
What is the car Ford Mustang or what please reply
After doing this, you will have no heater and your climate control most likely won't work. You will need to hook back your hold evap sensor every winter and you will not be able to change the ventilation flow ( I mean if you want the air to come out from the front or both front and bottom and so on...)
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Response from Ford : 🙈🙉🙈
Lotta work take it some shop, you can get electricuted
Lmao
Fixed.... 🤣🤣
That evaporator is going to start freezing up and that temperature sensor that he installed just hanging outside is going to catch on fire when it gets too hot .
Dont you just feel like slaping ford engineers for doing this stupidity of removing the dash just to replace a small part
Long winded