Many thanks for that, Kevin. I watched Micheal's video, and yes, he da man! I might be right full of it, but if my mitre slot was at 30 degrees to where my saw wanted to cut...what do I care! Now, you care, because of your fancy gauge for thickness. Now I like the alignment idea just for properness.
I thought I knew what sharp was but using the blades I bought from Amazon but then I didn't 50 bucks on an Infiniti tools bandsaw blade and now I know what sharp rash really is, it does a phenomenal job on resawing
I find lifting and lowering the piece while pressing against middle of the fence near the blade effectively reduces the amount of depth of cut, making progress a bit faster.
I wouldn't tout my bandsaw as being the greatest thing since sliced bread, but the same can be said of almost all woodworking machinery. I had a Laguna that I don't think was ten percent better, regardless of the much higher price. With patience, you can usually get the stuff to work pretty well.
Hey Kevin ! woodworker from Germany here ! all very good information i really love your style of demonstration. i would really love your insight for a woodworker with a small shop ! is there a way to thickness sides/soundboards without a drumsander ? i already have to much machines and as you know never enough space . could you demonstrate alternative ways to do these kind of steps and also here in germany a good drumsander is 2k plus . wich may be out of reach for a beginner or smaller shop sorry for my bad english thanks for the good advice.
Hey Kevin your right about blades, I do like timber wolf, but there not cheap, I think I will try the Lennox blades, I have a large pecan tree coming down soon, will be a good opportunity to cut up some extra stock, also have some six foot pieces of oak that needs to become Dimensional lumber. Thank for all you do , Merry Christmas sir.
Great pointers, as usual! I noticed, Kevin, that you are wearing gloves when using your band saw. I had always believed that gloves posed a greater risk of injury? I would appreciate your thoughts.
There are risks in wearing gloves while operating some machinery, especially table saws. I wear those particular gloves because I can maintain a firm grip on the material I'm working. As you get older, your skin tends to get smoother, making it harder to get a grip. Additionally, I've grown tired of slivers after fifty years of putting up with them. I take very special care during operations where I'm wearing gloves and have carefully observed their dangers, limitations and have incorporated that in my methods of work. Other subscribers have brought this up and while I won't advocate that other follow suit, i have been working this equipment for 53 years and I've never been cut, drilled abraded. Still, it could happen anytime.
Thanks Kevin. I was wondering if you also resaw tops and backs as well. I think you mentioned the limit of 6”… is that right? What is the limit.. the saw itself?
I think resewing isn't just a practice in my shop, it's an addiction. My large bandsaw can cut twelve inches deep and my fourteen inch saw cuts six inches deep. I use both depending on specific need. I resew all of my backs, rims, neck components, braces, binding stock, purling stock, veneers, I resew all of the tops that I acquire locally, but the Spruce and Cedar that I acquire come in book matched sets.
@@thepragmaticluthier Great video, I really like your thickness gauge, I'll have to make one. I also resaw as much as I can. I managed to set up my 14" Delta to cut 8 1/4" tall. Resawing can pay for a bandsaw fairly quick over buying precut sets and blanks and comes in handy if you crack a side bending and need another.
I've been using Laguna Resaw King carbide blades. They last way longer than normal blades and can be resharpened by the manufacturer. Expenses, but they last forever.
I have 2 Laguna Resaw Kings. A 1" and a 3/4" . I can't get them to behave in my Reliant- 14" delta knockoff with a riser block. 105" blade. 7" of Biternut Hickory was difficult at best. I have ceramic guides set at .005" and the blade has the gullets close to the center of the upper wheel.
@JoshWard-g5i In my experience, saws with riser blocks don't have the frame stiffness to tame the Resaw King, so it might be the saw rather than the blades
Hey Kevin, great video! I've worked with / for a couple of guys that swear by waxing the blades on the bandsaw. Ever done it? Opinions / thoughts? It always seemed like a bunch of "Who Shot John" to me.
The Timberwolf blade people suggest that you wipe the blade with cooking spray. I've heard of the wax think also. It does reduce some friction and there is a remarkable difference in noise, but I question what slowly builds up on the saw tines, guide bearings, trunnions. It's not a practice that I employ.
Sir, what would be the smallest bandsaw that could be used for guitar making? I am trying to put together a small workshop and I am on a budget. Thank you.
Get a fourteen inch bandsaw. That size machine is nearly ubiquitous. They can be bought used at good prices. Nearly every one of them will take a 93 1/2" blade. a saw that size will be powerful enough to just about anything you will require of it. Do some homework. Get a good one. Not all 14" bandsaws are equal.
Thank you Kevin. I have watched many bandsaw videos, you brought up topics I had not heard from anyone else. Thank you!!
Excellent information. Thank you.
All very good information. Love the set up video suggestion. Sharp blades are a must. A dull blade will always drift. Thanks for the good advice.
Thanks so much!
Many thanks for that, Kevin. I watched Micheal's video, and yes, he da man! I might be right full of it, but if my mitre slot was at 30 degrees to where my saw wanted to cut...what do I care! Now, you care, because of your fancy gauge for thickness. Now I like the alignment idea just for properness.
I agree with your comments about blade tracking. My preferred setting is where the bottom of the gullet is centred on the wheel.
I thought I knew what sharp was but using the blades I bought from Amazon but then I didn't 50 bucks on an Infiniti tools bandsaw blade and now I know what sharp rash really is, it does a phenomenal job on resawing
I find lifting and lowering the piece while pressing against middle of the fence near the blade effectively reduces the amount of depth of cut, making progress a bit faster.
I have really needed this for a long time!
Very helpful!
I was wondering if some of my trouble was my Grizzly…
Apparently not…
Thanks again
I wouldn't tout my bandsaw as being the greatest thing since sliced bread, but the same can be said of almost all woodworking machinery. I had a Laguna that I don't think was ten percent better, regardless of the much higher price. With patience, you can usually get the stuff to work pretty well.
Hey Kevin ! woodworker from Germany here ! all very good information i really love your style of demonstration.
i would really love your insight for a woodworker with a small shop ! is there a way to thickness sides/soundboards without a drumsander ?
i already have to much machines and as you know never enough space .
could you demonstrate alternative ways to do these kind of steps
and also here in germany a good drumsander is 2k plus . wich may be out of reach for a beginner or smaller shop
sorry for my bad english
thanks for the good advice.
Hey Kevin your right about blades, I do like timber wolf, but there not cheap, I think I will try the Lennox blades, I have a large pecan tree coming down soon, will be a good opportunity to cut up some extra stock, also have some six foot pieces of oak that needs to become Dimensional lumber. Thank for all you do , Merry Christmas sir.
Great pointers, as usual! I noticed, Kevin, that you are wearing gloves when using your band saw. I had always believed that gloves posed a greater risk of injury? I would appreciate your thoughts.
There are risks in wearing gloves while operating some machinery, especially table saws. I wear those particular gloves because I can maintain a firm grip on the material I'm working. As you get older, your skin tends to get smoother, making it harder to get a grip. Additionally, I've grown tired of slivers after fifty years of putting up with them. I take very special care during operations where I'm wearing gloves and have carefully observed their dangers, limitations and have incorporated that in my methods of work. Other subscribers have brought this up and while I won't advocate that other follow suit, i have been working this equipment for 53 years and I've never been cut, drilled abraded. Still, it could happen anytime.
Thanks Kevin. I was wondering if you also resaw tops and backs as well. I think you mentioned the limit of 6”… is that right? What is the limit.. the saw itself?
My guess is that was the limit of the average 14" bandsaw.
I think resewing isn't just a practice in my shop, it's an addiction. My large bandsaw can cut twelve inches deep and my fourteen inch saw cuts six inches deep. I use both depending on specific need. I resew all of my backs, rims, neck components, braces, binding stock, purling stock, veneers, I resew all of the tops that I acquire locally, but the Spruce and Cedar that I acquire come in book matched sets.
@@thepragmaticluthier Great video, I really like your thickness gauge, I'll have to make one. I also resaw as much as I can. I managed to set up my 14" Delta to cut 8 1/4" tall. Resawing can pay for a bandsaw fairly quick over buying precut sets and blanks and comes in handy if you crack a side bending and need another.
I've been using Laguna Resaw King carbide blades. They last way longer than normal blades and can be resharpened by the manufacturer. Expenses, but they last forever.
I have 2 Laguna Resaw Kings. A 1" and a 3/4" . I can't get them to behave in my Reliant- 14" delta knockoff with a riser block. 105" blade. 7" of Biternut Hickory was difficult at best. I have ceramic guides set at .005" and the blade has the gullets close to the center of the upper wheel.
@JoshWard-g5i In my experience, saws with riser blocks don't have the frame stiffness to tame the Resaw King, so it might be the saw rather than the blades
Kevin, have you tried the Resaw King blades from Laguna? They're about $150, but another UA-cam channel, Stumpy Nubs, says they're worth it.
I'm sure the Resew King blades are excellent. Given the price alone, I won't touch them.
@thepragmaticluthier he claims that they last so long, they cost less in the long run. I've never tried one, so I can't say.
Hey Kevin, great video! I've worked with / for a couple of guys that swear by waxing the blades on the bandsaw. Ever done it? Opinions / thoughts? It always seemed like a bunch of "Who Shot John" to me.
The Timberwolf blade people suggest that you wipe the blade with cooking spray. I've heard of the wax think also. It does reduce some friction and there is a remarkable difference in noise, but I question what slowly builds up on the saw tines, guide bearings, trunnions. It's not a practice that I employ.
Sir, what would be the smallest bandsaw that could be used for guitar making? I am trying to put together a small workshop and I am on a budget. Thank you.
Get a fourteen inch bandsaw. That size machine is nearly ubiquitous. They can be bought used at good prices. Nearly every one of them will take a 93 1/2" blade. a saw that size will be powerful enough to just about anything you will require of it. Do some homework. Get a good one. Not all 14" bandsaws are equal.