Wish these companies would stop putting the filament on the top of the printer. Especially at these speeds. Too much shake. That said, I think you are the premier 3d printer reviewer of all UA-cam reviewers. Keep up the good work. The need for paper bed leveling is unforgivable in 2024. Boo! to Artillery!!!!!
Exactly as you say! However, I like the filament on top, it avoids the need of any kind of PTFE tube, which is always awkward. However, the stability and shaking are a problem. These large printers should be made of rigid profiles AND cubical in shape like Ender 5. They shouldn´t be bed slingers at all.
I wouldn't mind leveling the bed manually if it stays level after that. I would trust it more than whatever gcode is generated to compensate for a non-level bed. But I'm not an expert on the what is going on with the gcode etc. Thoughts?
Nice video. Glad to see so many more subscribers to your channel. When i joined you where on 46k, now 76k. Must be the quality of your reviews. Top notch!
This channel is so underrated! It gives really solid 3Dprinter reviews with high information density. I am in the process of upgrading from an old very small one but can’t decide on which one to pick. If I should go for the more “closed” systems like bamboo labs etc or something more customizable. Have gone through a fair number of videos here and they have been really useful. Keep up the good work.
You guys are helping to improve these machines and the experience for all of us. Much appreciated!! I don't mind the manual bed leveling if it's a "set it and forget it" type thing. I want automated corrections when variables come into play (various filaments that might be out of tolerance, print types, speed, etc) My ideal machine would have: Single color (PLA or PETG, I'm not making motorcycle parts) Fast but not so fast that print quality becomes an issue Stays "in tune" Running current Klipper Ablility to use any slicer Optimized (not leveling / heating areas of bed not being used, no extra energy, fan, and noise) No 3rd party cloud nonsense Able to run 24/7 (I would like to learn about automating print, swipe, new print and what's involved for small print farm) And good/accurate presets available What do other people think? What are your priorities?
Your videos are not only helpful - they are THE standard for 3D Printers! Thanks for all the work. Preparing a review of this myself, but struggle with the settings. Will import the settings from ArtiSlicer now into Orca and try again lower speed. I swapped the nozzle to 0.8mm. greets from Austria, Mario
I really like how beefy, spaced out, and close to the bed the Y axis linear rails are. I also like that the gantry has a tradition brace and has additional strut rods. Overall I get the impression this is a solid machine, especially compared to the similarly sized Comgrow T300. This also has 50mm extra print height. Given this machine can be had for $349 and the T300 is $469 minimum, I'm really not sure why you would choose the T300 over the X4 Plus. I think comparing their tall trash can prints especially shows the difference in stability, even if the material and speeds were a bit difference. Great review as always!
Thank you for this complete and well presented test as usual. I approve of the option taken by the manufacturer regarding leveling the platter: if the mechanical assembly is well designed and has no play (clearance), it is rare to have to adjust the platter. So there is no need to waste time with automatic adjustment for each print.
I completely concur. With Klipper, I do an automatic bed leveling, look at the mesh, adjust the knobs accordingly, repeat a couple of more times and the bed is very level... and never needs leveling again. No paper shim probing needed. Easy peezy. I like having the bed very level so Klipper needs almost no auto Z leveling as it prints.
I've tried to convince Elegoo to make a Pro version of the Neptune 4 Plus with steel wheels and rails but it's looking like they won't do that. Sovol has the SV08 announcing soon and the shipping box suggests a larger format bed slinger so maybe that'll be a larger Klipper bed slinger with steel motion control. I'm definitely in the market and just waiting on the right one. The Sidewinder X4 Plus is definitely a contender but I'll wait to see the SV08.
I wish I lived next door to you. I'd knock on your door and ask for a cup of bright yellow PLA and I'm pretty sure you'd give it to me cheerfully. Thank you for all the hard work you and your brother do.
Great review, as usual, love the good/bad part. It appears this is a Makerbase MKS skipr motherboard missing some parts. I hope users are not thinking they can just add a camera or update the software, like the Two Trees SK1 the controller board is what you get, how it is, upgrade is replacing the controller and tool head. Time to print would be a good metric to add, the Two Trees SK1 takes 10 minutes for the mesh and heat bed with PLA.
I purchased this printer but I would like to use Cura Slicer, but it's not among the printers I can add, what can I do? Where can I find a profile? A thousand thanks
I've been waiting for Elegoo to make a Neptune 4 Plus Pro (steel rollers on steel rails) and the Sidewinder X4 Plus looks like what I've been wanting. I don't mind the paper bed leveling because I don't use paper. I use the bed mesh in Klipper to visualize the bed topology, adjust the knobs, and repeat 2-3 times to have a *very* level bed. Once adjusted, it's good, so I actually prefer the simplicity of less hardware and a manual bed leveling. I do wish it had an X&Y accelerometer to calibrate input shaping. The lack of larger nozzles on a larger printer is annoying but all manufacturers seem to be doing this, as well as not having hardened nozzles. I have a mini lathe so I can make my own 0.6 to 1.0 mm nozzles if needed and I don't print abrasive filaments. The nozzle looks good and that's the heart of a 3D printer. The silicone wiping pad is a nice bonus. The poor print accuracy is concerning and that's my biggest concern. I'd do some tests to determine if the axes are out of tram. If so, all of the prints will be diagonally skewed, but it may be possible to shim the X axis linear rail.
any chance of reviewing the new QIDI Q1 pro ? not many good reviews out there. I've already ordered one to be honest after @maker's muse review - but yours are much more indepth imho.
Would be incredibly useful to see the new printers test print a 30mm detailed miniature. Many have to heavy of extruder setups to get small detail that well.
Carbon fiber rods? Why not stick to aluminum? But they couldn't include a dedicated part cooling fan? That leveling setup is a bit dated - rather disappointing.
No, it's not like a regular volcano. I would say this nozzle is a "not that popular off-the-shelf" one, but they should become available everywhere, such as on Amazon.com, as more and more brands using it.
Can't say I am impressed with this printer as there is so many now with built-in input shaper and auto z-offset . Sorry Artillery, you need to up your game a little. Great review though as always!
Unfortunately, the one I got is not working to level the bed. I set the z-offset and trying to manual level the bed it holds at the 6 points to level is unachievable. The program will hold z above 0. Not good at all.
I'm a little curious about the nozzles themselves--why there are so many so-called proprietary types per machine manufacturers?. All of the nozzles I have seen for use with 1.75 mm filament come with an M6 x 1 external thread, with all of the differences being in the length of the thread and/or size of the nozzle head itself (from the end of the thread). All seem to have a 2 mm ID bore that tapers down to a 60 degree cone intercepting with the stated nozzle bore size (.4, .6, .8, 1.0, and so on). I can understand that there might be fouling of the internal threads in an extruder block when a nozzle with a shorter thread section going into a longer block, but the other way around shouldn't be a problem, especially with manually adjustable Z-offsets. All of the different different types seem to be more of pain to users than is needed to be put up with. Any of the cheap hobby lathes on ebay or elsewhere could crank out nozzles all day (as long as you have some basic knowledge of machining).
I would say this nozzle is a "not that popular off-the-shelf" one, but they should become available everywhere, such as on Amazon.com, as more and more brands using it.
If you need the 300x300x400 print volume, the X4+ would be better. If you just need a regular print volume and are looking for faster print speed and better print quality, the Kobra 2 Pro would be a better option.
They share the same weaknesses, such as lacking auto Z, knobs underneath the bed for manual leveling, and a not-so-well-developed custom screen UI. However, I prefer the linear rails on the X&Y axes on the Sidewinder X4 Plus more.
@@AuroraTech - My thoughts exactly. I have a Neptune 4 Pro and like it a lot. I want a Neptune 4 Plus Pro but they don't make it in the Pro version with steel rails and I don't want a fast larger format printer with acetyl V rollers even if they did double them on the Y axis.
yes I tighten it and it fix it. Also there was a camera cable causing it to not be balance. The pro version of this is EXTREMLY FAST FDM printer you do not need a Voron now!@@TheOscylO
Big bedslingers shouldn't grow in height proportional to their width for better qualityprints (looking like a cnc machine). And they would fit better into a serverrack aswell 😊
The fact that Artillery (like many others) persist with these ridiculous levelling wheels - and in this case - not just four but now six to contend with !! Surely these manufacturers have had enough time 'in the game' to build a bed that is square and solid enough to ditch these silly wheels. It's a massive turn off for me !!!
How many printers do you have, damn! Bought the house next door just to hold all the printers and start your own print farm? "Aurora Smithing, for all your CNC and 3d Printing needs!"
Hahaha... I suspect all the neighbors on the entire block now have at least one 3D printer :-). Amazon has a truck dedicated to just bringing them filament every day.
I bought the Sidewinder X4 Pro and I've had nothing but problems with it. Their firmware has all kinds of problems. Screens in Chinese even though English was chosen. My biggest issue right now is layer shifting. I've slowed it down to 80mm/s and I still have minor shifts in the X axis and this is after I added a heatsink to the X motor. The X4's have inadequate ventilation for the electronics and you can't remove the bottom cover without voiding the warranty. Essentially the Pro and the Plus are the same except for the build volume.
I've tried to convince Elegoo to make a Pro version of the Neptune 4 Plus with steel wheels and rails but it's looking like they won't do that. Sovol has the SV08 and the shipping box suggests a larger format bed slinger so maybe they'll sell us what we want.
You should go back to black or some other material that showcases the huge loss on quality you get on these tall machines when printing tall objects that lack rigidity. Make it a standard test and stick to colours that showcase defects.
I don't get these huge bedslingers. They're huge so you want to print huge things, but after a certain height, unless your object is very sturdy and is not just a thin wall like the vase print, then you'll experience quality loss that gets worse and worse. Someone needs to make a big format CoreXY printer to satisfy the needs of those that for whatever reason, need a huge machine. I know the Rat Rigs exist, but those are printers for serious nerds and not for the people who want an appliance. Also, recently, I've started to vent all my printers even when printing PLA and PETG, as research has shown that even these materials that most tout as being "safe", release UFPs and various other nastiness that is best not to inhale. So its not just ABS that you should ventilate or clean, its... Everything. And this is much easier on a closed printer where it is possible to achieve a negative air pressure with little effort.
Are you guys aware that Artillery are running this review as an advertisement? Not saying it is bad, just saying you should be aware if you aren't already.
With An USB accelerometer like ua-cam.com/video/La0djH5wejk/v-deo.htmlsi=H5oO14TNdasuXsMK one can improve print quality, if an USB-port can be used for that. Not really for beginners though; you need to compile firmware for it within Klipper
impresora rota desde la entrega multiples fallos de firmware cable de extrusor roto interruptor de encendido roto correa eje x rota.... 25 dias de uso y un desastre de impresora. El soporte de artillery no me atiende 5 tikets informando mas videos enviados indicando el problema y silencio por respuesta. No compren si aun estan a tiempo.
DO NOT BUY THIS MACHINE! there is an issue with the hotend that will render your machine inoperable. Do a quick search and you will find in forums that this is a common issue, to the point that the hotend is no longer usable. Artillery knows this, and their terrible costumer service, will tell you that their "new policy" does not cover the hotend. I had mine for less than a month! and somehow a unasable machine is acceptable for them, they will try to send you the sensors which will not solve your issue. The wifi, even with the new update, does not work. If it last one print, it's nothing short of a miracle. And adjusting the Z-offset is not easy, since the software in the machine stops working all the time. You think you are adjusting it and it's not moving at all! This machine and company are nothing short of sc*m. All you have to do is do a bit of research. If you take the plunge there is one company (if you are outside the us) that provides compatible parts, it's from Thailand. Again. DO NOT BUY. it's tempting, don't do it.
The best reviews on youtube bar none.
Wish these companies would stop putting the filament on the top of the printer. Especially at these speeds. Too much shake. That said, I think you are the premier 3d printer reviewer of all UA-cam reviewers. Keep up the good work.
The need for paper bed leveling is unforgivable in 2024. Boo! to Artillery!!!!!
Exactly as you say! However, I like the filament on top, it avoids the need of any kind of PTFE tube, which is always awkward. However, the stability and shaking are a problem. These large printers should be made of rigid profiles AND cubical in shape like Ender 5. They shouldn´t be bed slingers at all.
I can survive setting up a table on paper... compared to a supposedly self-leveling table in k1 which is rubbish to me.
I wouldn't mind leveling the bed manually if it stays level after that. I would trust it more than whatever gcode is generated to compensate for a non-level bed. But I'm not an expert on the what is going on with the gcode etc. Thoughts?
Agreed on everything you said.
Nice video.
Glad to see so many more subscribers to your channel. When i joined you where on 46k, now 76k.
Must be the quality of your reviews. Top notch!
This channel is so underrated! It gives really solid 3Dprinter reviews with high information density. I am in the process of upgrading from an old very small one but can’t decide on which one to pick. If I should go for the more “closed” systems like bamboo labs etc or something more customizable. Have gone through a fair number of videos here and they have been really useful. Keep up the good work.
Enclosed is almost always better since you can print more material types. Core XY printers tend to offer better quality than the beslinger.
@@daspicsman Thanks for the tips!
You guys are helping to improve these machines and the experience for all of us. Much appreciated!!
I don't mind the manual bed leveling if it's a "set it and forget it" type thing. I want automated corrections when variables come into play (various filaments that might be out of tolerance, print types, speed, etc)
My ideal machine would have:
Single color (PLA or PETG, I'm not making motorcycle parts)
Fast but not so fast that print quality becomes an issue
Stays "in tune"
Running current Klipper
Ablility to use any slicer
Optimized (not leveling / heating areas of bed not being used, no extra energy, fan, and noise)
No 3rd party cloud nonsense
Able to run 24/7 (I would like to learn about automating print, swipe, new print and what's involved for small print farm)
And good/accurate presets available
What do other people think? What are your priorities?
Again a marvelous professional video. I will keep wish I had the talent for making these professional videos. Keep the signal going strong 💪
Your videos are not only helpful - they are THE standard for 3D Printers! Thanks for all the work. Preparing a review of this myself, but struggle with the settings. Will import the settings from ArtiSlicer now into Orca and try again lower speed. I swapped the nozzle to 0.8mm.
greets from Austria, Mario
Always nice to see your reviews.
another stellar review where you call out the lack of ABL.
I have the smaller X4 Pro and the ABL is working fine. I would have preferred a BLTouch but I'm happy with the ABL.
I really like how beefy, spaced out, and close to the bed the Y axis linear rails are. I also like that the gantry has a tradition brace and has additional strut rods. Overall I get the impression this is a solid machine, especially compared to the similarly sized Comgrow T300. This also has 50mm extra print height. Given this machine can be had for $349 and the T300 is $469 minimum, I'm really not sure why you would choose the T300 over the X4 Plus. I think comparing their tall trash can prints especially shows the difference in stability, even if the material and speeds were a bit difference. Great review as always!
I just discover the quality of your test with this video. Congratulation and thank you.
Thank you for this complete and well presented test as usual.
I approve of the option taken by the manufacturer regarding leveling the platter: if the mechanical assembly is well designed and has no play (clearance), it is rare to have to adjust the platter.
So there is no need to waste time with automatic adjustment for each print.
I completely concur. With Klipper, I do an automatic bed leveling, look at the mesh, adjust the knobs accordingly, repeat a couple of more times and the bed is very level... and never needs leveling again. No paper shim probing needed. Easy peezy. I like having the bed very level so Klipper needs almost no auto Z leveling as it prints.
@@Liberty4Ever Thank you for these practical explanations.
As I am a mechanic, I favor mechanical adjustments.
I think you need to retest the MK4 with the latest slicer and firmware. The print quality has improved significantly.
Yes, I will do that in May when I review the Prusa XL.
Very good review, Aurora you are in my TOP list!
Amazing review! The lack of auto bed leveling is a deal breaker for me. Also the tolerances are deal breakers as well.
I've tried to convince Elegoo to make a Pro version of the Neptune 4 Plus with steel wheels and rails but it's looking like they won't do that. Sovol has the SV08 announcing soon and the shipping box suggests a larger format bed slinger so maybe that'll be a larger Klipper bed slinger with steel motion control. I'm definitely in the market and just waiting on the right one. The Sidewinder X4 Plus is definitely a contender but I'll wait to see the SV08.
I wish I lived next door to you. I'd knock on your door and ask for a cup of bright yellow PLA and I'm pretty sure you'd give it to me cheerfully.
Thank you for all the hard work you and your brother do.
Great review, as usual, love the good/bad part. It appears this is a Makerbase MKS skipr motherboard missing some parts. I hope users are not thinking they can just add a camera or update the software, like the Two Trees SK1 the controller board is what you get, how it is, upgrade is replacing the controller and tool head. Time to print would be a good metric to add, the Two Trees SK1 takes 10 minutes for the mesh and heat bed with PLA.
I purchased this printer but I would like to use Cura Slicer, but it's not among the printers I can add, what can I do? Where can I find a profile? A thousand thanks
I've been waiting for Elegoo to make a Neptune 4 Plus Pro (steel rollers on steel rails) and the Sidewinder X4 Plus looks like what I've been wanting.
I don't mind the paper bed leveling because I don't use paper. I use the bed mesh in Klipper to visualize the bed topology, adjust the knobs, and repeat 2-3 times to have a *very* level bed. Once adjusted, it's good, so I actually prefer the simplicity of less hardware and a manual bed leveling. I do wish it had an X&Y accelerometer to calibrate input shaping. The lack of larger nozzles on a larger printer is annoying but all manufacturers seem to be doing this, as well as not having hardened nozzles. I have a mini lathe so I can make my own 0.6 to 1.0 mm nozzles if needed and I don't print abrasive filaments. The nozzle looks good and that's the heart of a 3D printer. The silicone wiping pad is a nice bonus.
The poor print accuracy is concerning and that's my biggest concern. I'd do some tests to determine if the axes are out of tram. If so, all of the prints will be diagonally skewed, but it may be possible to shim the X axis linear rail.
Why can’t we get an enclosed printer with a 400mm vertical?
Great review 👍
Puts my old Ender3 to shame. Im currently doing a 13hr PLA print that wound probably take this print 5.
Cheers
any chance of reviewing the new QIDI Q1 pro ? not many good reviews out there. I've already ordered one to be honest after @maker's muse review - but yours are much more indepth imho.
Good with klipper is the screws_tilt_adjust function.
Would be incredibly useful to see the new printers test print a 30mm detailed miniature. Many have to heavy of extruder setups to get small detail that well.
Wow! What an incredible review! I've recently bought this printer. Could you please share with us your profile settings?
Thank you the review! :)
Hi.When will there be reviews for the Qidi Q1 Pro and FlyingBear S1? With best wishes!
I was hoping this would be the QIDI Q1 pro review!!!
I think they said it mid April. Im also waiting it too, early bird price is for 11 days more
This could have been the cr-10 se in my opinion. Maybe Creality is watching this and makes it this big (as usual). Great review 👍
is there any documentation on what nozzles it uses? i couldnt find any
Great review
Carbon fiber rods? Why not stick to aluminum? But they couldn't include a dedicated part cooling fan? That leveling setup is a bit dated - rather disappointing.
Literally think all those things. That bed leveling made me cringe
How long is the nozzle? It's a regular volcano nozzle or more long?
17:26
No, it's not like a regular volcano. I would say this nozzle is a "not that popular off-the-shelf" one, but they should become available everywhere, such as on Amazon.com, as more and more brands using it.
@@AuroraTech thanks, how long is it?
@@AuroraTech is similar to Neptune 4 plus?
The total length is 21mm, with a thread length of 15mm, and it looks to be an M6 thread with a diameter of approximately 5.88mm.
Can't say I am impressed with this printer as there is so many now with built-in input shaper and auto z-offset . Sorry Artillery, you need to up your game a little. Great review though as always!
Why do you recommend this over the Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus.
Unfortunately, the one I got is not working to level the bed. I set the z-offset and trying to manual level the bed it holds at the 6 points to level is unachievable. The program will hold z above 0. Not good at all.
I'm a little curious about the nozzles themselves--why there are so many so-called proprietary types per machine manufacturers?. All of the nozzles I have seen for use with 1.75 mm filament come with an M6 x 1 external thread, with all of the differences being in the length of the thread and/or size of the nozzle head itself (from the end of the thread). All seem to have a 2 mm ID bore that tapers down to a 60 degree cone intercepting with the stated nozzle bore size (.4, .6, .8, 1.0, and so on). I can understand that there might be fouling of the internal threads in an extruder block when a nozzle with a shorter thread section going into a longer block, but the other way around shouldn't be a problem, especially with manually adjustable Z-offsets. All of the different different types seem to be more of pain to users than is needed to be put up with. Any of the cheap hobby lathes on ebay or elsewhere could crank out nozzles all day (as long as you have some basic knowledge of machining).
I would say this nozzle is a "not that popular off-the-shelf" one, but they should become available everywhere, such as on Amazon.com, as more and more brands using it.
I am considering buying this printer or Kobra 2 pro. What do you think ?
If you need the 300x300x400 print volume, the X4+ would be better. If you just need a regular print volume and are looking for faster print speed and better print quality, the Kobra 2 Pro would be a better option.
Sounds similar to the elegoo Neptune 4 plus. Which do you think is better?
They share the same weaknesses, such as lacking auto Z, knobs underneath the bed for manual leveling, and a not-so-well-developed custom screen UI. However, I prefer the linear rails on the X&Y axes on the Sidewinder X4 Plus more.
@@AuroraTech - My thoughts exactly. I have a Neptune 4 Pro and like it a lot. I want a Neptune 4 Plus Pro but they don't make it in the Pro version with steel rails and I don't want a fast larger format printer with acetyl V rollers even if they did double them on the Y axis.
I dont get my printer keeps layer shifting while doing high speed I dont know how to fix. :(
Thanks for doing review on my new printer
Maybe loose belt 🤔
yes I tighten it and it fix it. Also there was a camera cable causing it to not be balance. The pro version of this is EXTREMLY FAST FDM printer you do not need a Voron now!@@TheOscylO
Big bedslingers shouldn't grow in height proportional to their width for better qualityprints (looking like a cnc machine). And they would fit better into a serverrack aswell 😊
The fact that Artillery (like many others) persist with these ridiculous levelling wheels - and in this case - not just four but now six to contend with !!
Surely these manufacturers have had enough time 'in the game' to build a bed that is square and solid enough to ditch these silly wheels.
It's a massive turn off for me !!!
How many printers do you have, damn! Bought the house next door just to hold all the printers and start your own print farm?
"Aurora Smithing, for all your CNC and 3d Printing needs!"
Hahaha... I suspect all the neighbors on the entire block now have at least one 3D printer :-). Amazon has a truck dedicated to just bringing them filament every day.
bed springs in 2024?
I bought the Sidewinder X4 Pro and I've had nothing but problems with it. Their firmware has all kinds of problems. Screens in Chinese even though English was chosen. My biggest issue right now is layer shifting. I've slowed it down to 80mm/s and I still have minor shifts in the X axis and this is after I added a heatsink to the X motor. The X4's have inadequate ventilation for the electronics and you can't remove the bottom cover without voiding the warranty. Essentially the Pro and the Plus are the same except for the build volume.
Why is this sooo similar to a Neptune 4 plus in soo many ways.
Except this thing costs more......
I've tried to convince Elegoo to make a Pro version of the Neptune 4 Plus with steel wheels and rails but it's looking like they won't do that. Sovol has the SV08 and the shipping box suggests a larger format bed slinger so maybe they'll sell us what we want.
You should go back to black or some other material that showcases the huge loss on quality you get on these tall machines when printing tall objects that lack rigidity. Make it a standard test and stick to colours that showcase defects.
I don't get these huge bedslingers. They're huge so you want to print huge things, but after a certain height, unless your object is very sturdy and is not just a thin wall like the vase print, then you'll experience quality loss that gets worse and worse. Someone needs to make a big format CoreXY printer to satisfy the needs of those that for whatever reason, need a huge machine. I know the Rat Rigs exist, but those are printers for serious nerds and not for the people who want an appliance. Also, recently, I've started to vent all my printers even when printing PLA and PETG, as research has shown that even these materials that most tout as being "safe", release UFPs and various other nastiness that is best not to inhale. So its not just ABS that you should ventilate or clean, its... Everything. And this is much easier on a closed printer where it is possible to achieve a negative air pressure with little effort.
Are you guys aware that Artillery are running this review as an advertisement? Not saying it is bad, just saying you should be aware if you aren't already.
👍🏻👍🏻
With An USB accelerometer like ua-cam.com/video/La0djH5wejk/v-deo.htmlsi=H5oO14TNdasuXsMK one can improve print quality, if an USB-port can be used for that. Not really for beginners though; you need to compile firmware for it within Klipper
👍
Hi❤
Nice ❤
>leveling knobs
😒
Bad, dont buy, i couldn't get them to ship a belt that snapped under factory setting in 3 weeks of use.
This dosnet sound like a good printer for a noob
impresora rota desde la entrega multiples fallos de firmware cable de extrusor roto interruptor de encendido roto correa eje x rota.... 25 dias de uso y un desastre de impresora. El soporte de artillery no me atiende 5 tikets informando mas videos enviados indicando el problema y silencio por respuesta. No compren si aun estan a tiempo.
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Wow, 1st?m🎉🎉😂❤
I received my p1s and I don't know why I even watching review on this junk 😂
DO NOT BUY THIS MACHINE! there is an issue with the hotend that will render your machine inoperable. Do a quick search and you will find in forums that this is a common issue, to the point that the hotend is no longer usable. Artillery knows this, and their terrible costumer service, will tell you that their "new policy" does not cover the hotend. I had mine for less than a month! and somehow a unasable machine is acceptable for them, they will try to send you the sensors which will not solve your issue. The wifi, even with the new update, does not work. If it last one print, it's nothing short of a miracle. And adjusting the Z-offset is not easy, since the software in the machine stops working all the time. You think you are adjusting it and it's not moving at all! This machine and company are nothing short of sc*m. All you have to do is do a bit of research. If you take the plunge there is one company (if you are outside the us) that provides compatible parts, it's from Thailand. Again. DO NOT BUY. it's tempting, don't do it.
i love you but not in a creepy way
Levelig knobs under the bed? No, thank you. I´ll pass. This is just horrible. Smells of old Ender 3.