How I Power 65 Game Systems
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- Опубліковано 25 лис 2024
- Getting the electricity situated in a complicated Gaming Setup like this one is a challenge. Luckily there are companies that make PDUs, like Technical Pro.
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My Gameroom Items (updated 7/19/2022)
Rack Mount Power Supply: amzn.to/3NPpKvM
Power Cord Y Splitter: amzn.to/3zBfT8K
16 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3H5vP4E
LG 43" 4K HDR TV (43UM7300PUA): amzn.to/3NddfZT
Kinivo HDMI Switch Box (550BN): amzn.to/3NQm7FW
10-Port USB Hub: amzn.to/39ixyae
Console Trays: amzn.to/3OOTzfV
Wall Shelf for Handhelds: amzn.to/3I3SS01
Vectrex table: amzn.to/39ZkmHE
4K HDMI Cable 8 feet/2 Pack: amzn.to/3QkKmgT
Wireless microphone: amzn.to/3xG04uO
Labelmaker: amzn.to/3OdaOYG
Vectrex overlay magnets: amzn.to/3ytxz57
Evercade Vs System: amzn.to/3OTk043
Other TESmart switchboxes (I don't own):
TESmart 16 Port HDMI Switch 30 Hz: amzn.to/39b9mGZ
TESmart 8 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3xngDLY
TESmart 8 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3NtDOuJ
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My gameroom items:
Rack Mount Power Supply: amzn.to/3NPpKvM
Power Cord Y Splitter: amzn.to/3zBfT8K
16 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3H5vP4E
LG 43" 4K HDR TV (43UM7300PUA): amzn.to/3NddfZT
Kinivo HDMI Switch Box (550BN): amzn.to/3NQm7FW
10-Port USB Hub: amzn.to/39ixyae
Console Trays: amzn.to/3OOTzfV
Wall Shelf for Handhelds: amzn.to/3I3SS01
Vectrex table: amzn.to/39ZkmHE
4K HDMI Cable 8 feet/2 Pack: amzn.to/3QkKmgT
Wireless microphone: amzn.to/3xG04uO
Labelmaker: amzn.to/3OdaOYG
Vectrex overlay magnets: amzn.to/3ytxz57
Evercade Vs System: amzn.to/3OTk043
Other TESmart switchboxes (I don't own):
TESmart 16 Port HDMI Switch 30 Hz: amzn.to/39b9mGZ
TESmart 8 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3xngDLY
TESmart 8 Port HDMI Switch 60 Hz: amzn.to/3NtDOuJ
A man with that many systems hooked up at once and it remaining that clean cord wise.....knows what he is doing. I never for once thought you had taken a shortcut anywhere to be at risk for a fire. Glad to be proven right.
Maybe he gets to it eventually but if you cut power completely to a Sega Saturn you'll have to replace that battery every time you get around to playing it. There's a mod to fix it (framm mod I believe it's called) that holds saves without the battery but with so many systems I would doubt he'd do all the mods available to all of them...
This is a huge fire hazard 🔥 Because I’m burning with jealousy 🤤 Nice setup 👏
You seem to have it pretty well covered. Avoid cheap, thin, and/or frayed cords. Avoid excessive heat. Avoid dust, dirt, and/or debris. No worries.
Additional note, DONT go by the outer thickness, it is not uncommon for 18AWG wires to be put in an extension cord with thick sleeving. Look for the wire gauge marking that will be on the outside of the cord along the side.
@@MyBrothersMario Another thing to test is voltage drop. That Kill-a-watt is great for that. Measure voltage at the wall, and voltage at the plug to the TV (WHILE it's on, so there's a load). If there is a significant drop, the cord, switches, or connection between is poor.
one thing ill add to this, if you are making a room that you plan on using in this manner, don't go with 14/2 romex, go with 12/2 romex..
@@jeffjr84 its just that extra bit of copper to reduce voltage drop and resistance
Anyone that said it was a fire hazard doesn't know the first thing about electricity nor electrical contracting. Great setup. Unfortunately there are just so many people that haven't a clue. About anything.
Fun fact: You can actually daisy-chain two power strips, and even power them through an extension cord, without your house spontaneously combusting in flames.
These same people probably have one power strip connected to their smart tv, fast charger for phone, ps5, series x, and a computer. All in use at the same time usually.
Turn em all on at once while simultaneously showing your electric meter
@@nickwallette6201 Exactly. As long as you use a thick enough gauge wire and don't overload the circuit, everything is fine. It's all wired up in parallel anyway.
@@nickwallette6201 well that is partially true. Yes copper wire is copper wire. Doesn't matter if it's wire in the wall or an extension cord.
However while your outlets in the wall are rated for 15amps ( maybe 20 depending) there are many different gauges of extension cords. Most are not rated for 15amps. Most are rated significantly less. So to give the advice if just daisy chain any cord with any device isn't true.
If several devices were plugged in and on or In stand by the potential to have a very hot extension cord is possible. Heat means potential fire.
So while the setup in the video was done with much thought. Not everyone is that smart.
Daisy chaining some dollar store extension cords only meant for 5amps isn't the best.
Ideally if possible, it would be better to wire your room on a 20amp circuit with a gfci breaker.
Aside from the 'fire hazard " myth. Protection against power surges is real and most people don't get there is a massive difference in a $50 surge protector and a $5 power strip / bar.
So there are factors to consider even if a fire is unlikely. They do happen
That is a very clean setup cable wise. Also the "Run Crysis switch" is perfect.
Here in Italy we have inexpensive Power strips with individual switches for each plug. They are quite nice, thick and sturdy though.
The most important thing is load balancing. That way you don't overstress the wires and no excessive heat gets generated.
I don't have as many systems as you, but I have older systems on a separate little cart , while modern systems are on the main tv and entertainment center
PC and relative stuff are on one wall plug , the entertainment center with tv and stuff on other two separate ones.
I still do the same thing you do: only 1 system at a time and the tv are on when I game. Plus the plug for usb charging my pads with their own usb power strip. That's the only thing that is always on , given the current draw is stupidly low.
I've never seen your videos before and for some reason this is the one that gets recommended to me.. I watched the whole thing. I enjoyed the video and it was super interesting!
Only other thing you might consider is grounding each of the wire shelves. I'd hate for one of them to become energized from a loose connection.
Dude! I was going to say the same thing! Almost word for word. It would be easy to do, having that ground screw on the back of the PDUs. It would help with any video or audio interferences around the older systems and CRT.
Dude the bg music in the opening of the video! Golden Sun needs to make a comeback.
Now what do you do about video inputs? I know they make devices for selecting multiple signal inputs, but I would like to see how you have it setup. Even though some TV's have multiple inputs, it seems easier to just have a large switch connected to one input of each TV as a way to simplify things. Again, I am very curious to see your setup.
At 1:05 you can get a glimpse of some of these switchers, but yeah it’d be cool to know the specifics
Agreed, I would like to know
I have 15 consoles hooked up to one TV in my basement. A mix of classic and modern.
I have an 8 input RCA switching unit. It has mechanical buttons to switch which input you are using. That covers the classic consoles (NES/SNES/N64/Gamecube/Xbox/Saturn/Dreamcast and my Genesis/32X/CD combo unit)
My Wii is using an RCA to HDMI adaptor, and is plugged into a 4 input HDMI switcher that has a remote. My Switch is also plugged into that switcher. My TV has 4 HDMI inputs, so that switcher uses one, and the other 3 are allocated to the remaining 3 inputs (Fully backwards compatible PS3/360/Xbox One)
If I wanted to add my PS1 and PS2 to the mix (don’t have the room for them right now, hence the backwards compatible PS3) I would pick up at least a 2 input switcher and a 4 input switcher. The 2 input would be hooked to the TV obviously, with the 4 and 8 switcher units plugged into it, and then arrange the consoles accordingly to those switchers, and have a couple extra inputs available if I ever picked up some other classic consoles, like a NEOGEO or something.
It looks like he uses the Pelican 4 port Composite splitters. I have one and it works well but idk what he does for component
I've actually been looking into these PDUs while planning my new setup for my console shelf and its really nice to hear feedback from somebody that's used these for a long time in the same way I plan to use them. Thanks for sharing! My new console shelf is actually going to be a single wire rack shelf on casters. I do plan to occasionally move it from one room to another but having it on casters also makes cable management MUCH easier. As a fellow cable management appreciator that might be something worth considering.
Awesome video my friend. I keep most of my consoles stored in storage totes when not in use. I just bring one out when I want to play it. I have extention cords for power, av and hdmi cords available to use for various consoles.
You have a great setup for conserving power that most people don't think about. These new consoles are power hogs and it's good to keep them off when not in use. I've really kept my electric bill down by doing that. Keep up the great work my Friend.
I love this channel, most youtubers just laugh at or ignore their trolls but you actually educate them, it is cool
I was potentially building a game room out of a spare bedroom in the next few months and your vids have been pretty good for giving me ideas of how to tackle it. Not planning on hooking up nearly as many systems though, instead I'm thinking about keeping my most used stuff (SNES, PS2, PS5, Switch, Retropie, mayyybe NES or PS3?) and then have a couple open bays set up so I can conveniently hook up less used stuff temporarily.
it always starts small
So clean, definitely worth looking into these for anyone who has a multitude of systems! Great video, thanks for making everything crystal clear for anyone watching! Very accessible video even though you go into good detail!
Really nice setup and video. I apply similar ideas in a lower scale: powerstrips all over my home to turn off everything i'm not using and small extensions to separate blocky power adapters.
I don't know if you already did it, but i'm curious about the av setup. The wiring, the switches to select a system.
I'd like to see what happens when you flip the "Run Crysis" switch! 😄 Great video as always Kevin!
It's nice that you let your dad come over and play.
Not sure what that means, but I'll give you a heart.
@@GamingTheSystems1 You look like someones dad in the beginning of the video.
My good sir. Thank you so much for this video. You have taught me how to properly manage electricity for my gaming room. I'm in the process of moving and my gaming room is currently empty and I honestly didn't know where to start as far as electrical goes. Now that I have watched this. I now know what to do for my room and how not to waste energy. Thank you very very much!
Revisiting this video as my retro game / AV devices grow in size… Just purchased one of the power switch boxes that you use; super excited!! Can’t wait for it to come in!
Love your videos Kevin, thank you so much for sharing them with us all!! Your art & work is exciting and inspirational.
This is amazing.. your game Room is so clean and neatly organized.
Truly a labor of love
This is pretty smart
The way I do it is I have a tv, wifi router, cable box, and any system made after 2005 is always plugged in and powered. Any of my older systems are off and I have a wireless switch to turn them on
I didn't realize I needed this information until I saw this video. Thank you for all of the detail!
Pretty much doing this but have all the power on (2) UPS's. Love the content!
A lot of people dont realize, power supplies have a transformer in it and most dont have a switch in the circuit between mains and the high voltage end of the transformer so they still sip a little bit of power. Most old consoles also dont take much, 10 to 60 watts when powered on for older systems with more power consumption for newer systems. Of course newer systems from the XB-360 era forward dive into the hundreds of watts per system.
The biggest thing to keep an eye out for is making sure the equipment you want to buy is made to a certain load spec and uses thick gauge cables and are fused. Read reviews before getting a power strip or surge protector. Fused equipment and of course spreading loads onto multiple breakers can also keep things safe.
At the end of the day though, the entire room probably doesnt come close to large appliances you already have in your house like your refrigerator or AC. More plugs doesnt always mean fire hazard or more power consumption, its all about what youre plugging in rather than just how many.
The older systems had linear transformers which could draw more even when off (the BRIDGE RECTIFIER!!! and capacitors causing this). One good reason to keep them unpowered when not in use is to isolate them from the power line and all the spikes that's on it. It'd be a real shame to lose a whole room of systems if there was a lightning strike.
I just measured a SNES power brick and GameCube brick. SNES was 1.3W unconnencted from console, GameCube was 1W unconnected to console. I figures the GCN with its switching supply would have near-zero idle power.
@@gblargg completely agree. Also interesting find, I would have imagined the same for the GC PSU.
I'm glad to have found someone else who used pdu racks as a solution to power supply for multiple systems. I got the idea last year when I saw someone buying and old pdu at a thrift store. When I got home I looked them up on Amazon. I ended up going with the Pyle pdu and short extensions. I use bright blank rummage sale stickers on the shelf labeled with marker by each device. It was a bit of an investment but well worth it.
Great game room by the way! The chrome pantry racks are a great idea. Also plenty of ventilation for each system. I may go with that in the future.
This is an awesome setup! I didn’t know about those rack mount power supplies, I’ll definitely consider getting some for my game setup, it doesn’t have near as many consoles but they’re all constantly plugged in, so this will help a lot. Thanks for showing your setup.
That is one MASSIVE setup. Great job managing the wires.
You've been a huge inspiration to me and my game setup. I got a switch box so I could turn off power to each console after seeing one of your videos! Possibly this one and I just forgot about it!
Those AC adapters are either old linear or simply just transformers. Transformers, especially iron core, can have crazy standby consumption, definitely a few watt in some of the worse models. Definitely worth keeping them turned off.
This is true, but you can get modern power supplies that are much smaller, more reliable, and draw less power in general and at standby, you just need to do your research to make sure you are getting a good one that will supply the right voltage with the right polarity and has the right connector or use adapters to get the appropriate polarity and connector.
Wow, even some mega obscure consoles here like the Gamewave. Living the dream that 12 year old me wanted to have. Massive props for the clean setup and finding the room to have them all out.
Thank you for putting all the links in the description much appreciated
You've got a great set up man! I like it.
I did not realized these used electricity when plugged in but powered off. Thanks for the info.
I can tell your channel is about to blow up. I've already learned so much! Very interesting content. You'll break 10k soon
You have the dream setup of any gamer out there. Good job man. Well managed.
This man could teach some music venues some lessons. Incredible setup.
Thanks.
i got this idea from you a few years ago and it works great. i use some older 5 switch pc monitor stand style ones for my setup that i have found at the thrift store for less than 10 bucks a piece. has been working great for me and thank you for the great ideas!
That was my idea? Interesting.
@@GamingTheSystems1 i was watching a lot of gameroom tour videos to get ideas for how to setup my game room and your video was the only one at the time that used these power switches so pretty awesome advice
Cool. Glad it helped.
Those under-monitor switches are great, I have a few. I have each external hard drive's power connected to them, monitor and speakers, subwoofer, etc. Great for things I use once a week so they aren't powered on all the time generating heat and wearing out.
I loved the "Run Crysis" switch at the end there. Nice touch :P
Saw your Master System. Was immediately hit with nostalgia.
I strive to have this level of a setup. I currently just have 15 systems haphazardly wired and setup. Mine is MOST DEFINITELY a fire hazard LOL. Thank you for the recommendation of the PDU though! It'll definitely help clear up the powering mess.
I plug everything into a surge strip and flip the switch off when not in use. I also unplug stuff that doesn’t get used very often.
This just shows how people online and other forms of media like to comment like they know what they are talking about but in fact they clearly don't. Can they not see the giant switches you have?
Anyways, this is the first video of yours I've seen, awesome setup. Cable management is pretty on point too.
Very detailed and thorough video, awesome job, bonus points for the concern about your cat wellbeing!!
Ingenious to use bakers racks. So versatile, and they last forever.
10:46, well, don't plug space heaters to splitters/power boards/extension chords/pdus. Basically, anything that uses resistance to generate heat draws a lot of power, electricians will tell you that you should connect those directly to the wall, otherwise it's a fire hazard.
Even modern gaming PCs are starting to enter that territory...
Cheers from Brazil!
Your videos are so enjoyable and pleasant to watch. Great work man!
I came from youtube video recommendations so I haven't you watch before but that a neat way to build a gaming room with that many consoles to play on.
Thanks for sharing! One of your earlier videos is what led me to seek out PDUs for my current setup. It's really quite handy to make sure things aren't consuming power when they shouldn't be. Granted, I only have about 20 consoles instead of 65, so it's less of an issue, but saving energy is always a plus. I also added LEDs above each system that was connected to the PDU so that it's very obvious if a system is getting power.
Also, about the guy that tried to plug in a space heater into one of these, I thought it was common sense knowledge to not be plugging space heaters into anything except the wall, due to how much power they draw and how easy it would be to overload any power strip. Game consoles don't draw anywhere near the power a space heater would, not even 9 of them simultaneously.
Yeah, a space heater is definitely not a good use case, but his other observations were spot on.
awesome setup! .. NES/SNES were my intro to gaming, but I haven’t played on original hardware in decades. I’m a bit too spoiled by modern tech to stomach the cost or finicky nature of retro hardware, but I’m glad some of you are showing these systems the love they deserve.
My MisterFPGA and emulation via Retroarch on Series X are close enough to original experiences to keep me happy for now.
it's just wires, it will never catch on fire. the bricks are 10 watts. people are so paranoid about just the presence of sheathed copper but as long as all the cables are rated at or above the breaker in your breaker panel, it is all protected, and you can plug as many strips into each other as you want.
anyway good job with your setup.
Amazing setup, no issues! 👍👍
I've always used separate surge protectors for each generation. I plan on moving in a few years, and I plan to build a power distribution system with shared modernized power supplies.
Always happy to see videos of your DUSTY FIRE HAZARD!!!!!
Love it. I would love to do something similar. As it is now, I only have one console at a time. Very annoying when I need to switch.
What a sweet set up you got👍
Great ideas. I only have about 8 retro systems. So I just use a surge protector with a switch to power it off when not in use..
I like your videos keep up good work
Those small extension cords for your NES and super nes, I didn't know those existed. So I'm going to get some of those. I also have a auxiliary cord where I can plug in devices to charge things and I have a device that's 5 volts that's perfect for recharging controllers when needed. It's good to keep partially charged to maintain battery life.
This is an awesome setup and would love to have the space/money for it. However, if you want to take it a bit further, you could always get network switched PDUs. You can then bring them all into something like Home Assistant and use your phone to power on/off a system and its corresponding TV without having to manually flip the switches. You could then also use something like a Broadlink RM4 to change TV and AV switcher inputs (if they have IR) automatically as well. Another benefit of something like this is that you would be able to put a button near the door that would then power off all the PDUs that you can press when leaving. It'd be a fair bit of work to get this all setup though, but could be a fun project.
While I don't have as many game systems as you, I do have about 20 hooked up to the same TV via surge protectors. I'm definitely going to borrow some of your ideas for the electrical. I especially like how organized you are. The back of my systems are a mess of cords and it's hard to know what cord goes to what system.
SICK AZZZZZZ ROOM !!!!! YOU SHOULD GET A AIR PURIFIER TO HELP WITH ALL THE DUST THAT GOES IN THAT ROOM
Now that is a game room. Plenty of systems and games to play.
This is my first time seeing your setup and your videos, it’s awesome! It sucks you have to make a video like this to address comments people made that simply mustn’t basic electrical components, so they started associating your setup with negative actions like fire and what not. Anyway, very awesome to see how much time you put into this setup!
Thanks for watching. I still would have made the video regardless of the comments. I include them to add color to the points I'm making, and it seems to turn out well.
Just came across your channel, I like what I see so I'm going to like and see some more! EXCELLENT CONTENT!!!
Thanks for coming
I'm going to have to get a couple of these for my hook up. I use a couple of standard but good surge protectors to turn my stuff off when I'm not around at the moment.
The most interesting of which being one that I pulled out of a Kodak Picture Maker Kiosk years ago. The switch is on a dongle that I mounted to the front of my entertainment center while the surge protector itself in hidden behind. The switch did wear out rather quickly and started sparking, so I cut it off and replaced it with a standard light switch. It's worked fine ever since.
As a professional AV and Networking guy it looks like a typical DIYer setup. I would of added some additional electrical outlets and have some power conditioners for the PDUs to plug into. Granted you're running a single TV and a console at a time but you have the PDUs still energized with a bunch of Y splitters and extension cables. Even though you have "thick power cables" doesn't mean it's safe.
Very cool, I could spend years in that room.
Love this video, I had been thinking of using a system like this myself for years, but didn't know a product like this already existed. Definitely gonna be looking into this, with a way to mount the PDU somewhere for easier use.
Epic setup. I love the break down. Awesome content!!!
In the uk our electrical sockets come with switches as standard.
Fire inspector here, one thing i would note is a "thick" cord is not a definitive way of saying a flexible cord can withstand a high current, with that said a good note would be to make sure any cords , splitters etc used have a been tested and approved by a governing body, here in Canada its the CSA. also make sure any male-femail connections are well seeded.
I added an uninterrupted power supply to my TV room setup to keep the wifi on during a power brown out/power loss. There were 2-3 slots open on the midranged power/battery back ups.
Seeing that old Nintendo AC adaptor brick made me realize that you could get rid of those old things waiting to fail and getting warm easily with aging caps by using a modern switching PSU with the corresponding specs.
Golden Sun music? Instant subscribe.
Oh man, I love the touch of having Mario 64 and Detroit at 0:52. Both those games do have a similar opening screen showcasing the system's graphics don't they!
I didn't think of it that way, but I think you are right. I really just wanted two humanlike figures in the image, it kind of draws people attention when they see people staring at them.
I was about to say you can just switch things off at the wall but realized this is The US here (I’m from NZ and we have switches by every power outlet probably because we use 240V)
You are correct, we don't have switches for every outlet. Only about half.
@@GamingTheSystems1 That is a regional thing, in some areas, particularly ones where there weren't a lot of houses built before electricity to the home became widespread, outlets on switches are less common. They started out doing the switching outlets because adding ceiling mounted lighting fixtures adds significant cost when retrofitting an existing house with electrical wiring because you need to rip up the ceiling as well as the walls, so floor lamps were a common cost saving option, so they put the switches in place so lamps didn't need to be right by the entrance to the room, and that stuck around. When you are building a new house it doesn't cost much to run wiring in the ceiling though so it was common to just use permanent light fixtures and the switching sockets were unnecessary
The only fire hazard thing I can see is that you have a lot of contact points on each path, meaning there a more points where corrosion on the contacts can be a potential fire hazard, but other than that it's a great setup!
Thank god for Retroarch.
Very nice golden sun background music.
Very informative video. Thanks for sharing with us!
This is really cool, nice set up
Looks like an awesome setup.
My only tweak would be to replace your outlets with double gang boxes, giving you 4 plugs per outlet.
That would remove the y splitter cords from your setup and it's a ridiculously simple change you can do yourself.
My recommendation would be to get good commercial grade outlets, which are only slightly more expensive. Possibly a GFCI outlet on the first box, if those outlets are in series.
Removes a potential failure point in the system (cheap y splitters) and cleans up some of the total cords.
While I have PDUs for my setup I do something even stupider. I use a PDU to Split an outlet for another set of PDUs Since a majority of game consoles are low power draws Daisy chaining them does work but only the Extrons and CRTs should be on their own PDU. this cleared up an entire plug for my sound system to draw all it wants from a separate plug.
If you want to get even stupider I have one of those decent sized RF powers remotes as well in front of the PDU. I have successfully made a wire system complicated enough that they need a manual to turn on the TV much less anything else.
Loved the video, next step would be to make custom shelving units to make it look cleaner and sleeker
That Dreamcast Shirt is clean man I need to cop one!
Pro tip for other viewers, the cable thickness doesn't guarantee that the wire is lower gauge (greater thickness). You have to read the words on the packaging or cable.
For your older systems I would use actual power conditioners. Cleaner power is always better if you can get it :P Other than that I would run a second line to the room just in case. My living room is a home studio and I have 2 120 lines and 2 240 lines. A large chunk of recording gear runs way more efficiently at 240v thus saves on my electric bill when I'm recording a project.
Even basic power strips with protection has MOVs and chokes to clean up the power. There are some protectors that cut power if it goes above or below the norm (and don't restore it unless reset), meant for old-style Xerox copiers.
Being a fire hazard just adds to how kickass that set up is.
Theyre just jealous of your set up, mate. 🤘
I'm have finally seen Valhalla and can die happy now.
Very cool and tidy setup, although not really my style. But I always like clean setups where the cables are almost completely out of sight. It simply leaves everyone baffled at why there's no visible cables with that many consoles :)
I'm more into modifying pre-built shelves since I don't have the capacity nor patience for building it all from scratch, hence why I'm using Kallax 4x2 and 2x2 shelving units where I split the square spaces into 2 rectangular spaces for double the shelves, and also for the contrast between white shelves versus black/gray TVs and black/gray/indigo colored consoles.
My setup is WAY smaller at just 14 consoles + CRT + LCD. It al connects inside a drawer, with 5 power buttons on the front, plus HDMi input, 4 USB and an extra power outlet for convenience. Fire hazard? Possibly. But I made sure I use good cables, always leave it unplugged from the wall whenever I'm not playing, and I only use at most 2 TVs and 2 consoles at the same time, so it's not even an issue.
This is a really cool and interesting video. Thanks to your advice, I will now unplug my systems when I am not using them. Hopefully I can save more electricity and reduce my electric bill.
Very interesting how you've managed your setup. Mine is similar, but instead of PDU's I'm using three good surge protectors with high joule ratings. They all have switches that allow me to cut power from whatever is plugged into them. I always have them turned off when I'm not using anything so I'm confident that power usage and electrical hazards are at a minimum. I'm also using a tad less than a 3rd of the number of consoles you've got minus my processors, switchers and displays so I can get away with a bit less. Later on, when I get the time to rearrange more things, I plan on using a nice industrial grade UPS that used to be a part of my works big server rack before being upgraded. It needs a new battery pack, but they gave it to me for free as it was just going to be e-waste and it will function perfectly after I install the new battery pack. Despite being phased out for newer equipment in the workspace it will be more than enough to handle my console setup. I'll be plugging those surge protectors into the UPS instead of the various wall sockets around the room for added protection, freed up wall sockets, cleaner power, backup for surprise outages so I can turn everything off properly and a central point in which I can turn the entire setup on and off with just one button.
About the only way that would cause a fire is if you ran them all at once and ohm draw melted a wire.. at most, this room would just get really warm considering the way he meticulously planned out the way he is powering all that. I been an electrician for 20 years, it'd take a fluke or a failure of the surge protectors of some kind to start any fire. LEDs don't produce much if any heat.. i did a LED ballast lighting retrofit at a bowling alley gameroom.. i was surprised by how cool LEDs run. Since Omega is the primary issue here, make absolutely sure you use 12 gauge romex and as he said, actually thick y splitters, you can roll the wire with your thumb outside the shield and figure out about how thick it is inside the shield. for those that dont know, Omega is a measure of electrical resistance, its the electrical principle that allow electric heaters to work. 99 percent of the time its a bad thing, unless its a space heater, then its a marvel of technology.
You did a really good setup, ensuring you have both comfortability while being affordable and safe. and make sure to not run more than 1 or 2 systems with the tv. especially since both the new xbox and playstation can consume up to 200Watts on full load. 200 watts might not be that crazy compared to modern pc setups but its not common for these electronics to have some power spikes in the 300-400 watt range. its rare and doesn't last long but can happen. And offcourse as you mentioned, dont plug any high end gaming computers into here but fell free to connect smaller range pc's that consume way less power if you want to add some sort of pc gaming experience.
overall, you seem to cover most things pretty well. my only feedback would be to make sure very extension you have has some sort of surge protection. hence i recommend getting the best quality ones out there that can really prevent as much damage as possible from potential lighting strikes, considering how many devices you have and how expensive they might be too
Wow what a collection! love watching these... I have just subscribed to your channel
As long as they are well organized ladies and gentlemen. Then they are not a fire hazard. That is why the make surge protectors of different sizes.
Very nice informative video. Also great set up : )
Awesome video man. I have about 12 systems all plugged in at once using 3 outlets and I've never had issues. But yeah the dust sucks