Extreme Metal Work! Porsche 914 Restoration
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2023
- Extreme & Ambitious metal work continues on the Porsche 914 Restoration. This 1976 mid engine sports car is a rusted out bad. Let's fix it! =)
Get your 914 parts here:
www.restoration-design.com
914rubber.com - Авто та транспорт
Hi CT long time viewer here! As one who has done what you are trying to do, I cannot state this strongly enough! Please put your doors back on before you make the first weld on those longs! I know it’s in the way but as one who did it, you will wind up with doors that will be impossible to fit or make close right! I had to cut my own welds out to correct the problems. You will be glad you did.
Thanks William! I will do that this week and see how the door fits. Thank you! =)
If you could capture, bottle and sell your determination and enthusiasm you'd be a millionaire!
That would be nice! =) haha!
You've got a lot of pieces and parts on the move!
Yes it's crazy....haha! =) Thanks Greg!
That is an understatement!
Wow, this is A LOT of work! My hat's off to you. I wouldn't know where to begin. Keep at it! Glad you have some help!
Thank you! 😎😎😎
When you are salvaging parts from a parts car.....It is best to cut WAY BACK from what you need into the next panel. Then after the parts are removed. peel off what you dont need. Easiest way to save parts from a parts car.
I still think the guy that helped on the swamp dragon was the best 😊
Yes, that Georgia hillbilly is pretty cool =)
What's been done already is amazing, many more steps to go, but great work and dedication to the final result
Thank you! 😎😎😎
CT, I believe I would have kept as much of the original metal as possible. I also would have cut the b-pillar sail panel at the fold where the spot welds were and kept that whole piece intact with the qtr panel until I had it mocked up on the other car. That way you could have the exact position of everything before you spliced in the new replacement panel. You don't want to be welding in an open area on the qtr panel, but stay as close to corners as possible to reduce warppage. Enjoying the content! Keep at it!
Definitely would have removed the entire quarter from the donor car in one piece unless there's no other way. Factory body lines and reference points trump newly stamped pieces every time.
One more tip, when butt welding a piece into a flat panel (talking the rear quarters here) try and avoid having a square 90 degree corner on the piece you're letting in, aim for a curve between them as it tends to help reduce a high concentrated area of the metal pulling in.
Thanks for the tip! =)
You beat me to it. I was going to say it's best to avoid cutting a sharp corner, and to create a radius at the corner. In this case, I would probably use a hole saw to create the radius, then make the cut to the hole. It also makes welding so much easier when you don't have to weld to a corner. That quarter panel now has a weak point with the square cut being so close to the wheel arch, but knowing CT, he'll persevere and make it work!
We say here in holland, Rome and Paris are not build on the same day, so it takes a lot of time, good luck👍👍
👍😎👍I like that!😎
Good work!
Thanks!👍😎👍
Tedius work but a progess at the same time. 🆒😎👌!
Props to you man. I’ve given away 914 chassis’s that were in better shape than yours. Thanks for saving this one!
Get some OSPHO from Ace Hardware and spray it on the rust, it neutralizes it and preps it for paint, no primer needed. Its great stuff.
Good tip! Thank you! =)
Wow guys look at that body flexing!! You have made so much work for yourselves by not prepping properly for the job in hand.
Nice progress and good for the video to have your friend Mark help out.
Great job CT! 🤗👍👌💯
Slowly but surely ! 👍
Great work again CT 👍
I agree with @williamakers 7812 to put the doors in before you start the welding .
Thanks dolf! 👍 Yes, I'm going to fir the door this week and see how it looks. Good idea! =)
Hello mate. I've a suggestion for a new year's resolution for you! How about you resolve to finish all your projects before starting a new one?!!😆 I was waiting to see the KG finished, then I was waiting to see Rusty done, and then waiting to see the beetle on the road... I just know I'm gonna be waiting to see this 914 done but you'll buy something else in a few months and this car will sit there gathering dust! 😅 I hate to sound like a nagging wife mate but you're doing my head in! Happy new year, fella.😘
haha! =) My new years resolution is to buy and fix up an old Ford truck. Sooooooooo....Stay tuned!
You ol' mind reader, you. I've also watched the same builds, and have yet to see one come to fruition. @CT, don't mind us moaning. I'm sure we'll see a result one day.
Hi CT, looking forward to seeing the new and used rear fender installed. This in my opinion is great metal work videos to watch. Just seeing the process and what is unveiled is interesting.
"WOW", thxs for sharing...
Hats off to you ct…. Great job..
Wow alot of fab work. That part near the fender looked liked it was brazed filler weld looks like copper . Years ago in classic cars they used lead to seal roof lines and stuff
Glad you had some help today
Have you still got the Beatle and if so are you going to go any farther with it or are you done with that project now would be good to see it back on the road again
Yes, I'll have some updates on the 65 beetle soon. It's basically done just needs glass and a few other minor things. =)
This seems harder than the beetle. But you seem confident….I assume this is your style of creating drama in your videos….haha!
¡¡¡¡¡quegran tabrajos estas realizando amigo CT¡¡¡¡¡
Hi CT! I wish a merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family from northern Italy!!!! 😘🎄🎄🎄
Thanks Straight Ahead ✌😎
Hey buddy - there's an Orange 1970 914-6 for sale on Hemmings out in CA - with your skills and determinations you could fix it and make a killing or have a 914-6
dang CT you got really far on that car i loved vw DARREN'S engine build cannot wait to see it complete 🎄🎁🎄
Hey CT do you watch Yorkshire Car Restoration on youtube? Crazy what goes into a real restoration!
Yes, those guys are good! =) I was just watching them last night.
Yep, here in England lots of rain, salt on the roads and poor rust proofing on cars gives us LOTS of welding practice. We tend to think of Florida cars as being rust-free as it's warm, but yours certainly shoot that myth down in flames! @@CTmoog
@@garybarnett764 To be fair to florida, those cars CT is working on could have made their way down from Chicago or any other northern states!
Wow. I am restoring my second 914, First one I had to replace the hell hole lower sheet metal and battery box. The one I'm doing now I only replaced the battery tray. I bought one for parts that was actually better than that one and I scraped it out. I'm in Arizona but both cars were purchased in Oregon.
I think people would be interested in knowing how many hours it took to do each section. This will help others understand the time commitment needed to restore a rusty 914.
I've heard that the average restoration takes 3 to 5 years part time on the weekends for the average person. It takes a lot of time, blood, sweat, tears and $$$ money! =)
Those large bars at the bottom I now understand whats going on there now
@Ctmoog, when is your brother going to finish his Power Wagon?
Hi there, Mr. CT. I think you're using a little too small drill bit for picking points, try 6 or 8 mm, risk one of those and grind a shallow point, not standard 118 deg. but more, like 140, 150. It should work better, since you can see easily the separation line while drilling. Other than that, I think your brother is spot on, just don't get discouraged. Also check many times the positions and measures because of the big hole in the floor... 😏 Keep on, if needed help yourself with the other car before you cut it apart... I mean positioning measures.. 👍
Just my opinion but, I like the vinyl delete. Just think it looks nicer in the body color. Great job
That green “eco-system” is the state plant of WA State: MOSS.
What happened to the Swamp Donkey??
hahah! =)
Alright CT getting some help and do some more learning I wish I could come up there for a month and work with some junky stuff to learn on. and learn how to Mig weld.
Always remember it’s easier to trim off metal than having to add it back in.
What happened to the Swamp Dragon?
Rusting away in pieces, like the others projects in pieces.
make sure you stay square, to the center of the car-- ,on right side-- and left side--to center -- to middle of the car ,,keep your center lines ,
Could I get the floor pan dimensions? Want to work on my CAD file and get ready to replace this thing when I get the car. Thanks. Front frunk and inside cab.
Hi CT I HAVE A QUESTION. I have a VW engine with the engind code being GD014569. Im trying to do my research on rebuilding the engine and was wondering what videos i should follow for it. Aswell as what size ring kit
after keeping your center lines on body mount// your doors to see fit, on front and back of door fit from your body
Hope you haven’t thrown in the towel. I can’t wait for the next video.
not yet.... but I did take a break from the body work on the 914. I am still working on the 914 - 2.0 engine and I've also taking a side step to work on a 1968 Ford F250. The 914 metal work is a bit over my skill level and I need time to process all of it. I might not go back to this one. I might need to find one in better shape. It's pretty bad......
@@CTmoog I’ll be on the lookout for a decent roller for you I’m in Georgia.
CT! You used a grinder instead of a die grinder!
On your stick screws, use a hammer and flat head screwdriver and tap the screws from the sides to loosen the rusted threads. They should back out a lot easier afterward.
stuck, not stick lol
CT you have a ton missing structure without an equal amount of bracing. Just my opinion.
I agree...I need to add more bracing this week.
CT it really should have been done before cutting. Now you will have to brace and adjust as necessary. This will not be easy and suggest you hang the doors before bracing and or realign the bracing.
Ha, ha,be creative with metal.👍😉
I’m thinking you might slow down a bit. That low cut was rough.
The yellow panel was good……
I would prefer to use the maximum amount of original body metal, modern metal is much worse than the original
👏👏👏👏👍
Man you’re not taking any breaks on this car huh.
just me I've wanted to runaway from it a couple times...it keeps pulling back in! =) haha! Hows the Fiat doing?
@@CTmoog doing great. Working on dual carb set up for it now. Still kinda ugly but waiting to finish getting it 100% mechanically before I start any body or interior work.
Just drill right through those old spot welds on the donor car. It will make separeting the pieces way easire... you dont care about thoses old under panels..
Where is beteel
If you can buy all those panels, why aren't you restoring the green car too? Seems madness use it for parts.
What you should have done is put that whole panel on your red car all-in-one piece, all you would have to do is fixed that little square area and it's an edge is bad. Replace that and then you'd have a whole repair panel for the side of your trunk. And the door that's what I what it did. I would have used that whole panel on your red car. And you still could do it if we were rounded well. Did that cut you made back together? Then you can get loose that whole panel and put it on your red car be. A better fix.
That's a suggestion From me
Let me know next time you need some help.
No no no…..😮😮😮😮😮😮
After all the cutaway, an estimated 50 % of the body is left! This indicates how poor the quality of the steel was back in the 1970s - 80s, way before the industry made this Great Leap Forward with Audi's introduction of zinc - plated / 100 % aluminium (!) car bodies - and also by the use of low - carbon steel.
Rebuilding all the body parts eaten away by corrosion like the one here obviously is not for the DIY guy! You need some profound experience in body repair (in Germany, training takes some 4 Years, ending with the "Geselle" (novice) or "Meister" (expert) certificate), because the remade body needs back its stability, or the car will be unsafe!
@@Dixler683 Thank you very much for that extra information - my comment above is based on Volkswagen's quality issues during the 1980s - not only the bodies suffered from premature rust, but also the engines had problems, mostly concerning alternators, ignition, and engine management.
Leopard tanks: This raises the question which particular type you are referring to: as of the Leopard2 A5 / A6, I have read reports about the crew exiting safely even after having taken a direct hit. What you could mean here is either the Leopard1, or a pre - update version of the Leopard2 (A4 or lower).
Fact is: even the Leopard1 is safer, as the ammunition is stored in the turret, not in the chassis UNDER the turret, which has ended the life of such tanks as the T80 in one big boom when by an AT missile, for instance!
@@Dixler683 Thanks for this extra information! However, I have some remarks on that:
1. "(...) can easily be done by a DYIer." I couldn't, as I have absolutely no experience on car body repair. Plus, as we can see here, both stepboards are gone - so you need to know how to cut out what's left and weld in the new ones. When everything is done and you here it creaking and groaning from everywhere, well - not good!
2. VW had some serious quality issues during the 1970s - 1980s, including premature corrosion, as well as problems concerning alternators, ignition, and engine management. This changed only after the takeover by Ignacio Lopez as CEO.
3. Sorry, but you need to specify which particular type of Leopard tank you are talking about. I have watched reports about a Leopard2 A5 or A6 having saved the crew inside after having taken a direct hit, and it was even possible to repair the Panzer. Maybe you are alluding to some early types of the Leopard2 (A4 or lower), or the Leopard1, which is indeed outdated, but appreciated by Ukrainian tank crews for its superior gun (reach up to 10km) and weapons control system.
It is these specifications even of the early versions of the Leopard2 (versions A6 and A7+ show major improvements in armour and fire control) which made US arms lobbyists intervene when the US MOD considered to buy the Leopard. Instead, the Abrams was introduced, which is, apart from the engine, a copy of the Leopard.
If you like to learn more about the Leopard2 and future plans in tank development for the German Armed Forces; please go to www.bundeswehr.org.
Cheers from Germany.
@@Dixler683 1. Thanks for the roses from a true patriot. It just takes some training 2. Where did you get this notion that the Leopard2, no matter which type, lacks any upgrades? And be a bit more specific in your attempt as expert on tanks: where exactly are the weak spots you seem to know? Any tank, regardless of model and type, is liable to issues of some sort. It's like any other complex system used in today's Armed Forces, modern military weaponry is not failsafe. What is even more important: tanks are to be used for combined arms warfare only, when you have air superiority. Otherwise the enemy will scrap even the best tanks in the world. This is exactly what the Ukrainians didn't do, they ran their Leopards into minefields. A question for experts like you: what does any tank do when striking a mine? 3. Right, I'm just a watcher, but free to write my comments here. Thanks for confirming in a negative way what I wrote: I have no clue about doing this kind of body repair - but I'll keep on being on CT's channel, simply because he is just a cool guy doing an interesting job.
Understand?
Cheers from Germany.
@@Dixler683 Come on, man, all I wanted was some answer by you that I could take seriously! I did not expect to meet a neurotic! Cheers!
CT! Do the work by yourself. Not with your buddy.
CT bus rusty the bus August every single episode that is prepare the get the engine rebuil and everything❤
Hope you tetanus is up to date lol
Cut and butt. Don’t cut out all the metal where you want to form a butt joint. Leave an overlap with the new panel otherwise you’ll end up with a gap you can’t bridge. It’s easier to cut as you move along to weld and it keeps the joint consistent. The old metal will just drop out behind the panel and you can fish it out later.
Good advice!👍😎👍