RV Weight & Wheel Problems Continue & Boar Wheel Order Frustrations
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- ****UPDATE LATE Tuesday June 25th after this video was uploaded****
Both Joel and Seth of Boar Wheel, did get in touch with us today after I sent a fifth email. They said that the wheel order that was on the way to their warehouse was delayed and I was not the only customer that was delayed. They said that they did not get my previous emails and messages. That's fine. I am appreciative of the contact they made today -- however, they knew that they had a delay, they knew they had customers waiting on orders. They should have been more proactive. They say my order should go out this week and that tracking information will be coming. I believe them and if they do indeed come through, I will post another video about the positive turn-around.
In this video, we continue our saga of dealing with wheel failures and weight issues on our RV. After a second wheel failure in as many months, we realized that our RV was overweight. Although this wasn’t the cause of the wheel failures, it highlighted the need for better quality wheels and weight management.
We decided to upgrade to Boar Wheels, known for their quality, but our experience with their customer service has been frustrating. Despite ordering and receiving confirmation over 20 days ago, we have yet to receive any updates on our order, even after multiple attempts to contact them.
Join us as we take you through our efforts to reduce the RV’s weight, including a trip to the CAT Scale for weighing and analyzing our progress. We also provide an honest update on our dealings with Boar Wheel and discuss the importance of customer service in the RV industry.
If you’ve had similar experiences or have tips for managing RV weight, we’d love to hear from you in the comments!
#RVStorage #RVOrganization #RVLife #HandymanScooter #RVMakeover #RVHacks #CamperStorage #RVLiving #RVWeightManagement
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My personal rule of thumb is that my trailer's GVWR is never more than 85% of my truck's tow rating. It is absolutely dangerous to tow a trailer that your truck cannot safely control. If your bumping up to your tow vehicle's towing capacity, you're simply wrong and dangerous.
In our case the GVWR of the RV is 19084, and the tow rating of the truck is 34000 - which is substantially a marketing number based on the ideal configuration to achieve such capacity - it would never be able to tow a 34000 5th wheel safely. Theoretically the heaviest 5er it could tow would be 26950 assuming 20% to the pin, a drive axle rating of 9750 and thats not even accurate because that would put the the weight of the truck over its GVWR by 1090. So your 85% rule of thumb would not work in that instance as it would be grossly over and thus grossly unsafe. Using your 85% rule of thumb that would mean the RV GVWR could be as high as 28900, (85% of 34000) which of course in our instance is considerably more than the 5ers 19084 GVWR. If it were at 28900 as a 5th wheel (and fully loaded to that capacity) that would theoretically put 5780 (pin weight of roughly 20% of the trailers weight) on the rear axle in addition to the standing 4360 on the drive axle when the truck is alone --- thus putting the total weight of 10140 on the drive axle which is 390 over the rating of the trucks drive axle of 9750 - which would be unsafe of course. As we stand right now, we are under on drive by 1590, under on the steer by 540, under on the trailer axles by 200, under on the GCWR by 13580 and under the truck's GVWR by 380. We are over on the trailers GVWR by 636lbs, but again under on the trailer axles by 200. The truck has more than enough stopping power for the trailer, and the trailer axles, spindles, bearings and brakes have plenty of stopping and support for the capacity when towing. But over on the Trailer's GVWR by 636 is over not matter what, which is the point of the video, and reason why we are endeavoring to reduce cargo in the RV by that amount. I'm not sure what you mean by bumping up the tow vehicles tow capacity. The numbers are the numbers and have been collected from the door, the manufacturer's spec sheet and the actual weights from the scales. There is not wishful thinking here on our part I assure you.
Thanks for sharing this. This baffles me when I see the limited stuff your cargo area. Have you weighed the RV with nothing onboard? What are you carrying (weights or something? that makes it so heavy? Like - taking all your belongings out and then weighing? Does this have MORryde IS? (That is +650 after install). I just purchased a 2018 38MB -and I need to weigh it, after I pick it up. I have very minimum stuff in it right now and I want to add IS - but that is 650 lbs right there. So, 19,204 is my max weight but I want to stay no more than 18,500. Supposedly, when they roll it off the assembly they put the actual dry weight on the door - that should have all the furniture and appliances. You are very knowledgeable and I am new to Riverstone - have you confirmed the dry weight with the door sticker? We don’t fulltime so I will probably be more lean.
Okay, I just scrolled to the spreadsheet section and I see your trailer door weight of 17,943. So - at 19,720…you have 1,777 lbs of stuff in the camper. So, to haul around almost one ton without water in the tanks seems a little high to me. I watched your RV tour - you are not loaded to the gills in that video.
It is indeed puzzling where the weight is coming from. It overall, the fact of the matter is that the weight of things add up and it’s kind of tough to estimate. Generally things weigh more than we typically estimate. Just in computer/network/camera gear we probably have close to if not over 100lbs. Dishes, pots, pans, glasses, silverware - likely another 100lbs. The pantry items, add another 50lbs. And none of these things individually are really heavy, and there’s not terribly more than we need. Just in sugar & flour for cookies is 2-3 lbs. ;) Then we have 3lbs of coffee. My point is, just the little things that typically don’t get considered as being heavy on their own do add up quickly. And you’re right we are not loaded excessively in terms of the amount of stuff we have. In fact we travel much lighter than many people we know. Unfortunately we did not weigh when we were new and completely empty, so we’ve got no idea of the total weight of what we are carrying. I am tempted to empty everything out and get a weight. It’s frustrating to me not to have that empty weight as a reference. Oh, and then we have a couple of suitcases for when we air travel. Those empty weigh another 20-30lbs. The struggle is real and continues! Thank you for watching.
@@okletsgorv Yes - it all adds up and in a hurry it seems. I think as tedious as emptying out the RV (moving day x2 right) it would be educational due to the amount you are over would certainly warrant the efforts and give you the ground zero truth. Then, if you wanted to be really deliberate on your home scale you could pick things up and weight the categories (collectively) and record the number until you get to the max weight allowed. Then, anything over that on travel days whatever the amount you listed for the available cargo in the truck could be packed up in totes and make up the difference so you are under your max combined. It really makes me wonder if the door sticker is accurate! For those of us who do take the time to weigh and consider these things I think we are ahead of the game and I have learned the weight game has a way of humbling us.
Why were you not in the truck when you weighed it? Aren't you normally in it when you're driving it, or do you know some levitation trick that I do not? :)
I run behind it! No reason really, other than just looking for the "curb weight" albeit a bit modified in our case as we do have some cargo loaded, i.e. tools, etc. I know my weight so can just add in as necessary if I think we're that close.
@@okletsgorv Ha okay, just checking. :)
Sounds like your fifth wheel, like many others, was built with axles and a frame that isn’t suitable for the weight. You’re 600 pounds over the gvwr limit but that limit is still above what it should safely weigh. A commenter above mentioned the 85% “rule” and I think that should really apply to the trailer’s weight vs. gvwr.
This one is built to handle the weight of itself fine. The frame is rated for 21K and the axles 16k, and they set the GVWR at 19084, which when accounting for pin weight keeps the weight within range for the axles. The problem is that despite all of that being in spec, the CCC is low and it’s our cargo that puts it over. If we reduced by the 600 all would be in line with specs. The 85% rule is a good idea but it is just opinion. Albeit a good opinion, it not being a regulation there’s obviously nothing compelling people or manufacturers to abide by it - sad but true.
@@okletsgorv yes, the big problem is that the ccc is so low and unrealistic. Looks like you are traveling sparsely already so getting rid of 600 pounds is not so simple.
Exactly. There are many owners of the same unit that have similar challenges. We’ve made inquiries to Riverstone to see if they will be making changes in next model years, e.g. adding another axle, but so far there are no plans for that. I’m guessing it would also involve a change in frame, so that’s obviously a big cost difference that would be tough to justify if they can’t hold margin without raising the MSRP and resulting street price beyond their target price point for the market/demographic this model appeals to.
you CAN NOT be within specs EVER if you carry needed personal items/misc in the rv even with empty fluid tanks.... AND why this is why it is crucial to upgrade axles to the max at time of order because of it!!! the weight ratings will just not add up and it has been a major head scratcher for years on how they are calculated, but initially when these rigs were built they were not as heavy as today nor were folks dragging all the junk they do in them cause folks were not staying for the duration's that they are today.... camping used to be short term, that is no longer the case but the ratings have not changed to allow for the real world we live/camp in!! the DOT answer is this; you ONLY have TWO options if you are caught; 1- it is a 5 cent per pound fine OR 2- you will have to ditch gear to come into allowed weight rating now, can it happen-YES but the chances are low unless you are required to roll on the scale, but the worry is not DOT, the worry is for yourself and the possible safety dangers that can happen if the weight gets outta control, mainly tire/axle failure which would lead to a bad day..... but u can only do sooo much to carry what you need, unfortunately that stuff adds up and there is a reason it is brought along, stay safe out there 🤠
I know several people/couples that full-time with everything they own and still have plenty of CCC in the RV. Granted, they have significantly down sized and when they first started they probably had plenty to make their setup overweight. But your point that people have more and tote more is definitely true. Many can’t part with the things they don’t “need”.
Absolutely on point - it’s better to be concerned about your own and other’s safety than being stopped by the DOT. The problem is, that people consider being stopped by the DOT is rare, like you mention. They take that as a pass to be overweight and give no consideration to the safety of themselves, their families or others on the road.
One thing to consider is the weight of stone countertops. Also if your cabinetry to made from melamine it is much heavier than plywood. Tile back splash and floor tile is very heavy too.
Hope that helps.
Fortunately we don’t have the stone countertop or melamine cabinets. We do have backsplash in the kitchen - doing the calculations on that it’s estimated to add less than 20lbs.