Відео

No specific reason other than I hadn't done any research on them. Just never considered them.

Thank you for watching!

Hello, Thank you for watching! We're glad you watched the video and took the time to comment. I'm not sure where to get those brackets, but I think they are fairly generic. I looked to see if I saved the new ones, but I must have tossed them or misplaced them -- otherwise I would have sent them to you. Here is a link to a generic set I found on Amazon. You can always order them, check them for fit and return them if they don't work out for you. Sorry I can't be of more help. amzn.to/4cbzBYi

@@okletsgorv you tock, thank so much.

You have to contact your dealer or Riverstone directly for the carpet.

Thank you for watching.

Yes, it’s kind of counter intuitive. But it’s typical of public water supplies. The logic is that human bacteria and human access is a lot harder to control & police than boats. It’s a well documented perspective through the country as well as other nations.

Okay, I just scrolled to the spreadsheet section and I see your trailer door weight of 17,943. So - at 19,720…you have 1,777 lbs of stuff in the camper. So, to haul around almost one ton without water in the tanks seems a little high to me. I watched your RV tour - you are not loaded to the gills in that video.

It is indeed puzzling where the weight is coming from. It overall, the fact of the matter is that the weight of things add up and it’s kind of tough to estimate. Generally things weigh more than we typically estimate. Just in computer/network/camera gear we probably have close to if not over 100lbs. Dishes, pots, pans, glasses, silverware - likely another 100lbs. The pantry items, add another 50lbs. And none of these things individually are really heavy, and there’s not terribly more than we need. Just in sugar & flour for cookies is 2-3 lbs. ;) Then we have 3lbs of coffee. My point is, just the little things that typically don’t get considered as being heavy on their own do add up quickly. And you’re right we are not loaded excessively in terms of the amount of stuff we have. In fact we travel much lighter than many people we know. Unfortunately we did not weigh when we were new and completely empty, so we’ve got no idea of the total weight of what we are carrying. I am tempted to empty everything out and get a weight. It’s frustrating to me not to have that empty weight as a reference. Oh, and then we have a couple of suitcases for when we air travel. Those empty weigh another 20-30lbs. The struggle is real and continues! Thank you for watching.

@@okletsgorv Yes - it all adds up and in a hurry it seems. I think as tedious as emptying out the RV (moving day x2 right) it would be educational due to the amount you are over would certainly warrant the efforts and give you the ground zero truth. Then, if you wanted to be really deliberate on your home scale you could pick things up and weight the categories (collectively) and record the number until you get to the max weight allowed. Then, anything over that on travel days whatever the amount you listed for the available cargo in the truck could be packed up in totes and make up the difference so you are under your max combined. It really makes me wonder if the door sticker is accurate! For those of us who do take the time to weigh and consider these things I think we are ahead of the game and I have learned the weight game has a way of humbling us.

Thank you for watching. I know just a bit about the FireFly system. As an RV Tech, I do have plans to go to the FireFly Certification Training in the next couple of months. Perhaps I’ll find the secrets. I’m not buying FireFly’s claim that the switch cannot be changed to variable. It probably can be done technically, but it probably requires a change to the floor plan coding and that’s not something than is user configurable. That’s my best guess.

@@okletsgorv Thanks for input. I think I have found a possible soliction. Install a 12V dome lite that is dimmable at the touch. Move the switch to the wall beside the bed, which can be done because they are Bluetooth. I have not install the lights yet, but I found them on Amazon.

Absolutely. I’m continually amazed by what they do as much as what they don’t do!

This one is built to handle the weight of itself fine. The frame is rated for 21K and the axles 16k, and they set the GVWR at 19084, which when accounting for pin weight keeps the weight within range for the axles. The problem is that despite all of that being in spec, the CCC is low and it’s our cargo that puts it over. If we reduced by the 600 all would be in line with specs. The 85% rule is a good idea but it is just opinion. Albeit a good opinion, it not being a regulation there’s obviously nothing compelling people or manufacturers to abide by it - sad but true.

@@okletsgorv yes, the big problem is that the ccc is so low and unrealistic. Looks like you are traveling sparsely already so getting rid of 600 pounds is not so simple.

Exactly. There are many owners of the same unit that have similar challenges. We’ve made inquiries to Riverstone to see if they will be making changes in next model years, e.g. adding another axle, but so far there are no plans for that. I’m guessing it would also involve a change in frame, so that’s obviously a big cost difference that would be tough to justify if they can’t hold margin without raising the MSRP and resulting street price beyond their target price point for the market/demographic this model appeals to.

In our case the GVWR of the RV is 19084, and the tow rating of the truck is 34000 - which is substantially a marketing number based on the ideal configuration to achieve such capacity - it would never be able to tow a 34000 5th wheel safely. Theoretically the heaviest 5er it could tow would be 26950 assuming 20% to the pin, a drive axle rating of 9750 and thats not even accurate because that would put the the weight of the truck over its GVWR by 1090. So your 85% rule of thumb would not work in that instance as it would be grossly over and thus grossly unsafe. Using your 85% rule of thumb that would mean the RV GVWR could be as high as 28900, (85% of 34000) which of course in our instance is considerably more than the 5ers 19084 GVWR. If it were at 28900 as a 5th wheel (and fully loaded to that capacity) that would theoretically put 5780 (pin weight of roughly 20% of the trailers weight) on the rear axle in addition to the standing 4360 on the drive axle when the truck is alone --- thus putting the total weight of 10140 on the drive axle which is 390 over the rating of the trucks drive axle of 9750 - which would be unsafe of course. As we stand right now, we are under on drive by 1590, under on the steer by 540, under on the trailer axles by 200, under on the GCWR by 13580 and under the truck's GVWR by 380. We are over on the trailers GVWR by 636lbs, but again under on the trailer axles by 200. The truck has more than enough stopping power for the trailer, and the trailer axles, spindles, bearings and brakes have plenty of stopping and support for the capacity when towing. But over on the Trailer's GVWR by 636 is over not matter what, which is the point of the video, and reason why we are endeavoring to reduce cargo in the RV by that amount. I'm not sure what you mean by bumping up the tow vehicles tow capacity. The numbers are the numbers and have been collected from the door, the manufacturer's spec sheet and the actual weights from the scales. There is not wishful thinking here on our part I assure you.

100% Agree....some of the poisons say that they are animal safe. I'm calling BS on that for sure.

I've heard that mentioned but have not tried it. I can see (smell) why it would work. I wonder why its not more popular on retail shelves available as a deterrent. Do you know where it can be purchases as a pest deterrent?

Ouch! Definitely not worth that! At that price I’d probably just figure out how to leave an iPad type device running the app in the RV and access it remotely from my phone.

I tend to agree - the numbers do seem to be unrealistic. I think in general people will always push the limits regardless of what the ratings are.

I run behind it! No reason really, other than just looking for the "curb weight" albeit a bit modified in our case as we do have some cargo loaded, i.e. tools, etc. I know my weight so can just add in as necessary if I think we're that close.

@@okletsgorv Ha okay, just checking. :)

I know several people/couples that full-time with everything they own and still have plenty of CCC in the RV. Granted, they have significantly down sized and when they first started they probably had plenty to make their setup overweight. But your point that people have more and tote more is definitely true. Many can’t part with the things they don’t “need”. Absolutely on point - it’s better to be concerned about your own and other’s safety than being stopped by the DOT. The problem is, that people consider being stopped by the DOT is rare, like you mention. They take that as a pass to be overweight and give no consideration to the safety of themselves, their families or others on the road.

Fortunately we don’t have the stone countertop or melamine cabinets. We do have backsplash in the kitchen - doing the calculations on that it’s estimated to add less than 20lbs.

Hi Marc, Correct but not when hitched though which is when it matters, because of course 20% or so of the weight is being transferred to the truck. Hitched on weighing #1 was 4105, and at weighing #2 was 3950. When unhitched most of the weight is taken by the leveling jacks and not on the wheels or tires of course. So basically take what is on the axles hitched and divide by 4. Weigh #2 15800/4 = 3950, Weigh #1 16420/4 = 4105. Therefore when being towed each wheel is being subjected to the 15800/4 as that is the total on the axles.

You're welcome and thank you for watching and commenting. It is a very easy process, but the device is surely expensive. I hope you can find a better price than I did! I do like the peace of mind it provides and rationalizing that as justification for the cost!

I just tried the link again myself and it brought me to the correct item. Not sure what the issue could be. Try looking up on Home Depot using these numbers. Internet # 204323544 Model # 12610 Store SKU # 1000017096

thanks, found it. FYI for those looking for this part, Homedepot has a similar pocket door kit but much more expensive with many parts you don't need. thanks again for the video!

That would get rid of the surprise for us but not solve the problem for us. We’d still have to get the bucket and dispose of whatever is there - and she just ain’t up for that. ;)

This is what we found as a potential replacement. It is 24” which is the same size as the Insignia mentioned in the video. www.bestbuy.com/site/thor-kitchen-24-inch-freestanding-gas-range-stainless-steel/6484893.p?skuId=6484893&ref=212&loc=458068864&msclkid=9a28a9b6a7d110f314ffcfdd478d3ecf&gclid=9a28a9b6a7d110f314ffcfdd478d3ecf&gclsrc=3p.ds

Thank you! I've not had to address the issue myself yet, but I did notice some other issues underneath that can be solved with some fender washers, so I am going to do that. I may tackle the underbelly as you suggested as part of that video. Thank you for the suggestion.

He Kim...I responded to you on FB, but for the benefit of others I am responding here as well. They did send the exact same make/model wheel, but of course there is no telling other than time will tell, if it will fail again. My guess is that they may gave had a bad production run in late 2021 early 2022, and that is why they are replacing them so quickly with no questions asked. I have no way of knowing that for sure - its just my guess. In any event they are quick to process the claims with no hassle and get them shipped out quickly. We only waited 2-3 days in each case.

Hello Todd, I have indeed looked in to them and placed the order for them last week. I'm going to stick with the tires I have as they don't have any uneven wear and are H rated Coopers.

I’m not sure what you are referring to as far as helmet. Can you clarify?

@@okletsgorvI’m sorry, Siri butchered it. I was talking about the grommet.

Story of my life! I have a love/hate with Siri! That you for that pointer. I can probably lift out the grommet a bit hit it, put back in place and hit again.

They came with the tank kit. I am not sure what size they are. They will likely be specific to the tank kit.

You can typically order from your dealer. Thats what works out best. You could try giving Riverstone a call directly. Sorry I don't have a number for them. I do have the flooring for the 39RKFB instock, but its costly to ship, so would only be able to provide it if you are somewhat locale to ME, NH or VT.

I agree, that should take care of it. Despite the best planning, design & engineering, sometimes feedback from the field is best. Riverstone has their finger on the pulse which leads to a superb product!

I have pretty much ruled out that the failure of the wheel was not due to the overloading. We are still with in spec there. Our bigger problem is that we are definitely over on the GVWR of the RV by the 1400Lbs. We’re going to go through and reduce cargo as much as we can. I’m just going to depend on the CAT scale results to get the weights overall and not worry too much about the individual component weights as I know that if we can get the GVW of the RV down by the 1400lbs we should be good every where else. Interesting that you say get in the habit of making wider turns. I’ve been doing that so much that I even catch myself doing it when in the truck and not towing.

@@okletsgorv If leveling while transporting is a problem?? They do have different offsets for tow hitches.

Yes, the truck and RV are remarkably level. We’re over on the GVWR of the 5th wheel, and there’s no amount of leveling that will resolve that. It’s a matter of reducing the weight and that’s it. The trouble is that we already travel very light so I’m not sure where the weight is coming from.

Absolutely, I’m not aiming to spin the numbers, I’m endeavoring to resolve the weight issues, both on the 16k and 19k limits, while also addressing the wheel quality issue. Question for you as you obviously understand this topic well….We would be traveling with the combined weigh slip and if we are under on GCWR, and under on all of the GAWR, would the DOT be OK with that? We would be under on all of that but possibly still over on the GVWR of the trailer, but with out having the discrete actual curb weight of the truck at time of check, they really would have no way of knowing as the pin weigh can only be calculated from discrete weights, right? e.g. the % of the trailer weight transferred to the pin can only be estimated and that could be anywhere from 15-25% this making the weight of the trailer essentially unknown. Are you saying they force the issue and have you go to a weigh station to disconnect and weigh separately?

The tools are already in the truck. Being over in the RV by the 1400+ is really bizarre. I’ve got to find the weight and dump it.

Gross weight of the RV on or off hitch? Using the formula you provided its either 132 or 114, which both seem reasonable, given the 123 max cold spec. I like the 114 better. The torque was recommended by MorRyde as well as the wheel manufacturer. Do you have a source you can refer me to for the torque info your basing your understanding that the torque is high? Thank you for the info!

Thank you. I’m glad you found it helpful.

Did they just get hairline cracks or something more?

@@okletsgorv It is on a toyhauler, and both blew out in a hard turn, Rims made by Sendel, Sendel sent me the new style rims about 4 months ago, 3 was leaking around the back bead that was cracked, one had a flat and eat the outer bead, so not really there fault, one made a U turn and in the middle of the U turn the rear blew out, the other was also the rear, when Jackknifing backwards it blew out the back ring with full air pressure, and when the ring blew apart, it went into the water tank.

You appear to be saying that you prefer to look good than have durable equipment. Is this correct?

Yes, Not over on the wheels or tires. I weigh two times a year -- typically after long stays and significant changes to cargo. We are full time. I weigh with trailer on and off, so I can calculate all weights individually and compare WR to actuals for all components. I have a part 2 video in the works. Stay tuned. Thank you for watching.

I'm double checking all the ratings verses actual and so far I am good on wheel and tire as you mentioned. The wheels are actually rated for 6005 not the 3960 that I had mentioned in the video. I will be doing an update video once I have all my facts confirmed.

Yep, and it’s not turning out to be great news. More info in the next video. Thank you.

That's the plan. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching and subscribing, and the kind words.

Yep....at least its honest and not just manufactured or embellished drama for the sake of viewership.

Thank you for that insight. Your point about one wheel being overloaded at a time with IS is something that I was thinking about the other day. You get a smoother ride, but apparently it comes at a potential cost beyond the $. Thank you for watching. I will be creating another video on the topic soon now that I have received lots of comments with new information for me to research and confirm.

In some cases there is no choice -- you take what they give you, but that of course does not mean you can't swap something out for US made. We shall see if that's an option for us. Thank you for watching.

@@okletsgorv wasn’t trying to cut on you it’s just the way things are now, even my 2005 prowler has many parts it came with from China. Camping World is the worst nothing they sell is made in America except refrigerators and sometimes ac units. Power supply they sold me lasted a month.