Sir , What if appear ECU and I have checked the inverter without damage and 5V , 3V ,1.5V is Ok How to solve this problem please ? Your brother from Yemen
In extreme uses of the controller where it is required to deliver high current for long periods of time (like doing wheelies or climbing long steep slopes) the solder tracks can actually become liquid and literally puddle at the lower end of the track. This leaves only the thin trace on one end of the track and a very thick solder ball at the other end. If you hit a bump the solder can short against the case or the thin trace can fuse through. Either will leave you stranded and fry MOSFET's. By beefing up the track you add sufficient mass of copper and solder to prevent it from ever becoming liquid. Basically, it can carry more current for longer periods of time. While using solid copper wire is the norm, I use braded copper intended for removing solder, but just solder it onto the tracks. I also cut a thin piece of fiberglass (available in 1foot squares at most hobby stores) to put between the bottom of the board and the case. You can often feel smoother starts or tiny gains in power after this work, but it is mostly to protect the MOSFET's from overheating and or catastrophic failure of the track itself.
Hi, i have come across this video after buying a 72v battery for my 1500w Ebike rear hub motor .The controller got hot ,i mean very hot so i put back my older 52v battery and now have a code error 10.After stripping the controller i found one of the 5 large cap puffed up a 470uf 63v , In order to make the controller run at 72v do i just change all 5 caps to 470 uf 100v or is there more to it to make it run at 72v, i have checked the specs of my mosfets and they are 68v 120a,any help would be great,thx Steven
Gloves do tend to annoy me too haha! I'm laughing at the solder iron you say wish it was hotter I say "Wow it wasn't already? Looks like the Terminator gave you that thing lol!"
Remember that while "increase in torque" gives you that warm fuzzy feeling inside, it's never free. A balance must be maintained on modified controllers. The "cost" of torque is limited to a few areas: 1) Battery drain ... shorter range, fuse failure, cell failure, and let's not forget battery fires/death. 2) Catastrophic controller failure. 3) Motor failure (least common...but still expensive). 4) Crashing sucks! The adrenaline rush that electric torque provides can be overwhelming. It changed my life. I made good and bad decisions. All because TORQUE! Just remember "crashing sucks" and you should be okay.
Just curious why didn't you change the capacitor that is by the mosfets I'm going to be doing a similar upgrade and I need to know if I should upgrade all 3 of the 63 volt capacitors to 100 volts or just the two you did
If your motor doesn’t require it to use it you don’t have to. Sometimes even a motor will have the wires but still will run with out it just may lose efficiency.
Great video. Question, I'm replacing my ebike motor pcb board. The replacement has 7 holes/copper rings for wiring. Bu my original has 6 - 5V, GND, SP, H1, H2, and H3. The replacement has an additional ring for wiring labeled "K". What does K stand for in this case? Keyswitch, ohms, resistance? Can't find any information or diagrams online. And if I solder/connect the "regular" wires, will I have a problem if I leave "K" unsoldered? No info online + could use the help. /bklyn 👑
wow, you seem t be an authority... I have a challenge and I’d like to know what you think… I have a working e-bike with a very basic controller, everything works, however I am stuck with the out-of-the factory speed. This bike doesnt even allow me to reach 25Km/h considering my weight. All I wanted to do was to have a lil more speed, nothing crazy. So I bought a KT controller and display thinking that I could change the speed limit. The new controller is supposed to be better than the original, better mosfets etc.. However it doesn’t work. The display turns on the bike, I can even browse thru the parameters but it shows 0 battery charge, hence nothing works. I tried all sort of things, like swapping the hall sensor cables to see if there was some mismatch but still nothing. Clearly there is current from the controller cause I measured 3.68V at the Throttle cable when the controller was plugged to the motor and battery. Battery is 48V 15AH I dont think is the problem, the display turns on, it just doesnt comunicate with the motor (250W) My naive question: How can I proceed with modifying the new controller and make it “like” the original? I thought about making a new one from scratch but it might be too difficult for me, Besides I’d still have the display problem, I need one to turn on the bike, speed regulation, headlights etc.. I suspect it might be something “simple”, related only to the power circuit, perhaps once I get proper reading of the battery charge everything will work…. hopefully. Any thoughts is greatly appreciated.
You have an error message that’s telling you your battery is not connected yet. You state that you feel the problem is the connection to the motor to completely separate things first I’d say what type of connect are you using for the battery now and then I would open up the controllerand see why you are not getting full voltage inside of 3.68 V sounds questionable on your throttle control. It’s usually five.
In extreme uses of the controller where it is required to deliver high current for long periods of time (like doing wheelies or climbing long steep slopes) the solder tracks can actually become liquid and literally puddle at the lower end of the track. This leaves only the thin trace on one end of the track and a very thick solder ball at the other end. If you hit a bump the solder can short against the case or the thin trace can fuse through. Either will leave you stranded and fry MOSFET's. By beefing up the track you add sufficient mass of copper and solder to prevent it from ever becoming liquid. Basically, it can carry more current for longer periods of time. While using solid copper wire is the norm, I use braded copper intended for removing solder, but just solder it onto the tracks. I also cut a thin piece of fiberglass (available in 1foot squares at most hobby stores) to put between the bottom of the board and the case. You can often feel smoother starts or tiny gains in power after this work, but it is mostly to protect the MOSFET's from overheating and or catastrophic failure of the track itself.
hey i have a 1000w fatscooter with 48 - 60v controller and 1200w 20a battery and the speed is limited to 15.5m/h and im trying to figure out if theres a resistance connected somewhere or someoption to bypass the speed limit it has a three speed function which connects to K1, K2 and GND on the circuit. theres also K3 with nothing on it, whats that?
15:47 my trick, I mount all Mosfets on heat sink and then solder them 😜 simple
Sir , What if appear ECU and I have checked the inverter without damage and 5V , 3V ,1.5V is Ok
How to solve this problem please ?
Your brother from Yemen
I don’t understand the question
i just did this tonight and am nervous to turn it on lol. it looks good just my first time
In extreme uses of the controller where it is required to deliver high current for long periods of time (like doing wheelies or climbing long steep slopes) the solder tracks can actually become liquid and literally puddle at the lower end of the track. This leaves only the thin trace on one end of the track and a very thick solder ball at the other end. If you hit a bump the solder can short against the case or the thin trace can fuse through. Either will leave you stranded and fry MOSFET's. By beefing up the track you add sufficient mass of copper and solder to prevent it from ever becoming liquid. Basically, it can carry more current for longer periods of time.
While using solid copper wire is the norm, I use braded copper intended for removing solder, but just solder it onto the tracks. I also cut a thin piece of fiberglass (available in 1foot squares at most hobby stores) to put between the bottom of the board and the case.
You can often feel smoother starts or tiny gains in power after this work, but it is mostly to protect the MOSFET's from overheating and or catastrophic failure of the track itself.
Hi, i have come across this video after buying a 72v battery for my 1500w Ebike rear hub motor .The controller got hot ,i mean very hot so i put back my older 52v battery and now have a code error 10.After stripping the controller i found one of the 5 large cap puffed up a 470uf 63v , In order to make the controller run at 72v do i just change all 5 caps to 470 uf 100v or is there more to it to make it run at 72v, i have checked the specs of my mosfets and they are 68v 120a,any help would be great,thx Steven
Gloves do tend to annoy me too haha! I'm laughing at the solder iron you say wish it was hotter I say "Wow it wasn't already? Looks like the Terminator gave you that thing lol!"
I’m going to send you a couple of duel speed control what do you charge to modify them?
I just did this last night and I feel the increase in torque.
Thanks for posting this video.
no problem. you will likely want to upgrade the battery next.
Any more speed or just torque?
Remember that while "increase in torque" gives you that warm fuzzy feeling inside, it's never free. A balance must be maintained on modified controllers. The "cost" of torque is limited to a few areas: 1) Battery drain ... shorter range, fuse failure, cell failure, and let's not forget battery fires/death. 2) Catastrophic controller failure. 3) Motor failure (least common...but still expensive). 4) Crashing sucks!
The adrenaline rush that electric torque provides can be overwhelming. It changed my life. I made good and bad decisions. All because TORQUE!
Just remember "crashing sucks" and you should be okay.
I want to see the soldering 🥲🥲
Just curious why didn't you change the capacitor that is by the mosfets I'm going to be doing a similar upgrade and I need to know if I should upgrade all 3 of the 63 volt capacitors to 100 volts or just the two you did
the pedal system does not require hall sensors, then what to do with the wires for powering the hall system ..!?
If your motor doesn’t require it to use it you don’t have to. Sometimes even a motor will have the wires but still will run with out it just may lose efficiency.
Great video.
Question, I'm replacing my ebike motor pcb board.
The replacement has 7 holes/copper rings for wiring. Bu my original has 6 - 5V, GND, SP, H1, H2, and H3.
The replacement has an additional ring for wiring labeled "K". What does K stand for in this case? Keyswitch, ohms, resistance? Can't find any information or diagrams online.
And if I solder/connect the "regular" wires, will I have a problem if I leave "K" unsoldered?
No info online + could use the help.
/bklyn 👑
wow, you seem t be an authority...
I have a challenge and I’d like to know what you think…
I have a working e-bike with a very basic controller, everything works, however I am stuck with the out-of-the factory speed.
This bike doesnt even allow me to reach 25Km/h considering my weight.
All I wanted to do was to have a lil more speed, nothing crazy.
So I bought a KT controller and display thinking that I could change the speed limit.
The new controller is supposed to be better than the original, better mosfets etc..
However it doesn’t work. The display turns on the bike, I can even browse thru the parameters but it shows 0 battery charge, hence nothing works.
I tried all sort of things, like swapping the hall sensor cables to see if there was some mismatch but still nothing. Clearly there is current from the controller cause I measured 3.68V at the Throttle cable when the controller was plugged to the motor and battery.
Battery is 48V 15AH I dont think is the problem, the display turns on, it just doesnt comunicate with the motor (250W)
My naive question:
How can I proceed with modifying the new controller and make it “like” the original?
I thought about making a new one from scratch but it might be too difficult for me,
Besides I’d still have the display problem, I need one to turn on the bike, speed regulation, headlights etc..
I suspect it might be something “simple”, related only to the power circuit, perhaps once I get proper reading of the battery charge everything will work…. hopefully.
Any thoughts is greatly appreciated.
ya that type of upgrade need to be in person. there's no way I could guess what the problem is. can you adjust the lvc in the firmware?
@@karmaEbikes. forgive my naiveness, is the LVC the main chip in the controller? the one that communicates with the display?
You have an error message that’s telling you your battery is not connected yet. You state that you feel the problem is the connection to the motor to completely separate things first I’d say what type of connect are you using for the battery now and then I would open up the controllerand see why you are not getting full voltage inside of 3.68 V sounds questionable on your throttle control. It’s usually five.
Sir, contolara 5v areata 6v asa kano amae bangladash
If i change the capacitor to a higher voltage can I use a higher voltage system
Assuming your wires, tracks, capacitors and feta can handle it yes.
Speak way to soft to understand
Hi,I'm new to ebike.
Can I ask what's the purpose of replacing fets and caps?
Thanks
higher voltages.
What does beefing up the traces do?
helps even out the load. if you get a hotspot it could travel up the fets legs or pop like a fuse!
In extreme uses of the controller where it is required to deliver high current for long periods of time (like doing wheelies or climbing long steep slopes) the solder tracks can actually become liquid and literally puddle at the lower end of the track. This leaves only the thin trace on one end of the track and a very thick solder ball at the other end. If you hit a bump the solder can short against the case or the thin trace can fuse through. Either will leave you stranded and fry MOSFET's. By beefing up the track you add sufficient mass of copper and solder to prevent it from ever becoming liquid. Basically, it can carry more current for longer periods of time.
While using solid copper wire is the norm, I use braded copper intended for removing solder, but just solder it onto the tracks. I also cut a thin piece of fiberglass (available in 1foot squares at most hobby stores) to put between the bottom of the board and the case.
You can often feel smoother starts or tiny gains in power after this work, but it is mostly to protect the MOSFET's from overheating and or catastrophic failure of the track itself.
hey
i have a 1000w fatscooter with 48 - 60v controller and 1200w 20a battery and the speed is limited to 15.5m/h
and im trying to figure out if theres a resistance connected somewhere or someoption to bypass the speed limit
it has a three speed function which connects to K1, K2 and GND on the circuit. theres also K3 with nothing on it, whats that?
im a total noob in the electronics, please help =D
Is there a wire on the controller connected to its self . Disconect it