i went from 60 amps to 97 amps. i just added a bit of solder on and around my 4 shunts. took it for a spin and omg. it pulls the front up so easily and the front is where my 18lbs of batteries are, i weigh 213 and my bike is 103lbs. top speed before mod was 51mph, but i lacked the amps to over come wind resistance, now i am sure i can break 60mph, but i want to get proper safety gear first. my system was 4.1kw before the mod, i have no idea where it is now as i am afraid to max it out now
Think I'm gonna be watching a few more of your videos so far seems like good and honest stuff... Respect from the UK 🇬🇧 also its not easy what you're doing.
I find it easier to put extra solder onto the components I want to desolder. That makes sure it melts all the way thru the hole and don't pull the traces.
Great videos to learn from ! Thanks. I was recently given a hand me down 60v battery - so is there any other component to upgrade only the Caps and Mosfets ? I have a Voilamart 1500 rear hub but only has 63v Caps. I ordered some 100v ones and the Mosfets too. But not sure if other components need to also be upgraded. Thanks.
I have a 2 fiido cargo T-1 I think this controller needs a high capasity board. I ordered 1 but when I saw the board it looks lite not like factory.that has what looks like a strip of .020 extra heat sink material on board, like what your working on Can you point me to a soarce read or I.D. the specs? thanks if you can im dun with fiido
thank you, maybe you can, I am upgrading a controller on one of my ebikes. the one that came with the kit is rated at 15a continuous and when i use the motor at full throttle going up to 1200 watts on the meter that would be 24a and i've had the motor connectors melt causing an open on one phase, so i searched for a higher capacity controller, got a 48 volt 2000w which should be colse to 40a continuous. in looking at the wiring there is no display connector, i have opened it up and looked at all the connections on the pcb and see a place that looks like wiring could go there for a display, and i am hoping with the connectors i am getting i can connect it easily to try it out, it may be sine wave and have smoother operation also, but i want the programming options i have with mine now that has the KT-LCD3 display. so do you know about using a controller that doesn't have a display connector wired in, and if i might get lucky soldering the display wires onto the board? nd will it be programmable with the display mine looks like yours mine says 48v 2000w
Hi, and thanks for this video. Twas really helpful, esowcially because i have the exact same controllet type. My main concern is the PAS mod you did. My controller (same as yours) doesnt come with a PAS wiring as standard. I'd lije to add this feature because my throttle is broken. Thanks
Is there any benefit to upgrading to higher voltage capacitors if my battery is still within the original capacitor's range? My battery is a 52V, so fully charged it's 58.8V, my capacitors are rated to 63V, would I benefit at all from upgrading to a higher voltage cap?
my controller will take some doing to mod, its not your typical controller, take a company that manufacutres cars and not jsut bikes and you get some intersting controllers that will either need technical expertise and or getting a hold of the schemetics. and I am talking about this controller in specific. Intelligent Brushless ₩otor Controller hase angle: 1200 Model: NJTZT-6GZE Electric current: 25+1A Voltage: 36V/48V Brake handle: low level Undervoltage: 29+1V ate: 2022-07-07 Quzhou naijiate auto industry co.,ltd like I said it seems that modding videos have ended and not many are being done now because of the complexity of the controllers. E-bike manufactures are creating controllers that make it more difficult to tamper with. this controller , is not an easy lock to pick.
By any chance do this thing have a speed limit or something? I running a 84v 1500watt controller and I just got a 72v motor thinking that with the lower voltage rating I would get more speed not it's the same thing I'm able to get why more torque and speed with a regular rc esc but because they unsensored motor runs hot and efficiency is very low I would like to modify my controller for more torque and more speed. Thanks
Your idea about motor being made for lower voltage than you have is generally speaking is right. So most motors of 1500w nominal are made to reach 60kmh. Than they reduce KV depending on how high system voltage is. (Low kV have more torque - physics) I would say you did get the right moto for your voltage to get more than supposed to have speed (no real thrust sacrifice in your case, as higher voltage offsets it) Thrust will depend on how controller handles it - max amp draw and watt SW allows and HW can support. - adjust soft ware to allow more - beef up traces with solder / copper wire along - make sure fets(mosfets) are top notch (lowest resistance) - use some good Panasonic FR Or FM series low esr capacitors to reduce noise in the system (causes heat) - use very good thermal past for fets and controller - Mount controller to the metal to help heat disperse
Another question, how does wheel/tire diameter effect motor speed and power? If I do build a bicycle, I want a 26" or better frame, with 20-24" wheels, I know the crank will probably need mods, but I need a low stretched bike due to leg injurys, and can't really peddle anyway. I like the mini bike looking ebikes, and cargo bikes, I will likely stretch the rear fork also, allowing for a rear rack, I have also thought about a trike,
@@TheBrainSquared even replacing mosfets won’t do that much - if you install lower resistance more efficient once, you may gain 1-2% back due to higher efficiency, but that is not why mosfets are to be changed - real reason is to reduce overheating, specially if you running close to the controller amp limit (usually sw limited in edition to what HW can handle) So yes MOSFETs are good to have replaced on cheap controllers, but for top speed to increase you need 1. Higher kV motor (rotation per volt) Or 2. Higher voltage (get 12s instead of 10s battery for example) = top speed will increase unless controller has SW limit. Most controllers can handle extra 1s or even extra 2s without HW modes, but need to examine it carefully before attempting
@@airBornFpv Sure voltage will get you more speed, but current gives you the torque and the ability to reach that speed. I wouldn't just replace the Fets and call it a day, I would blow my controller as soon as I plugged it in..
@@TheBrainSquared look replacing fets will generate more torque only if FETs are the limiting factor - in decent controllers fets amp rating is WAY above SW amp limit, thus replacing fets will not do any torque improvement on its own, but may allow to over current if you change SW (rest of controller needs to be beefed up for that too though)
@@TheBrainSquared also incorrect about amp making the torque - it is always watts, not just amp 5v * 20amps = 100w will not creat same thrust as 60v * 20amps = 1200w By increasing voltage from 50v to 70v you allow same controller design, for example limited to 20amp, to produce 1400w instead of 1000w (even if your unchangeable SW and HW amp limit is still 20amps) hope it helps
Dont get why you guys use these oversized controllers, got into scooter modding with a VESC and upgraded my ebike with that as well Awesome controls, great bluetooth functionality, adjustable as fuck and manages 200A in the size factor of a 10A ebike controller with twice the voltage
Hello. My ebike has a controller that has this simple, but wierd wiring configuration. it’s a 36/48v 350-watt 16 amp. The wiring is like this: 9-pin for the motor; 1T4 cable for the throttle, display and two brakes; one 2-wire connector for the front light; one 2-wire connector for the tail light, and one 2-wire connector for the horn. I was looking for a controller same wiring config but cant find one anywhere. Do you modify contoller for that same wiring config?
I have a 1500w, 48-72v controller, I was wondering if it's possible to double the FETs, and allow the controller to think it's still 1.5kw, while being able to handle 3kw? How far can you go when over volting, the motor? 60-72v with a 1500w 48v motor be OK, for burst of full Power, I haven't much experience with brushless motors, what I'd like to do is 3motors, 1500watt hubs front and rear, with a 2-3kw mid, running around 60v, I have lipo cells to build a battery, capable of a sustained 600-800amps, in 3-4 in parallel , I'm a bit heavy, and have hills around here! While a mid mounted motor, around 3kw, would probably be enough to get me in trouble on the streets, if I can go faster than regulations, I want to do it up hill also! I would be thrilled to get 20-25 mph up hill, and 60-80 on flats, I'm thinking about a moped conversion, something a bit more substantial than a bicycle,
Hi, i have a 48v controller and im going to use a 72v battery, i have oguht 100v 150a mosfets and 100v caps. I have already beefed the controller up. do i have to change anything else like resitors and stuff. becuase i do not want my display or something to blow.
I know you posted a year ago. When I read your comments - I found that I just ran into the same scenario. 48v to 72v and like you bought 100v Caps but my Mosfets were only 100v. Hence did you have to upgrade any other component ?? I guess I Can plug it and hope it doesn’t blow up. 😂
i went from 60 amps to 97 amps. i just added a bit of solder on and around my 4 shunts. took it for a spin and omg. it pulls the front up so easily and the front is where my 18lbs of batteries are, i weigh 213 and my bike is 103lbs. top speed before mod was 51mph, but i lacked the amps to over come wind resistance, now i am sure i can break 60mph, but i want to get proper safety gear first. my system was 4.1kw before the mod, i have no idea where it is now as i am afraid to max it out now
Think I'm gonna be watching a few more of your videos so far seems like good and honest stuff... Respect from the UK 🇬🇧 also its not easy what you're doing.
Welcome aboard!
I find it easier to put extra solder onto the components I want to desolder. That makes sure it melts all the way thru the hole and don't pull the traces.
Great videos to learn from ! Thanks. I was recently given a hand me down 60v battery - so is there any other component to upgrade only the Caps and Mosfets ? I have a Voilamart 1500 rear hub but only has 63v Caps. I ordered some 100v ones and the Mosfets too. But not sure if other components need to also be upgraded. Thanks.
Cool ive got some spare controllers in my box i think i might give it a go.
I have a 2 fiido cargo T-1 I think this controller needs a high capasity board.
I ordered 1 but when I saw the board it looks lite not like factory.that has
what looks like
a strip of .020
extra heat sink
material on board, like what your working on
Can you point me to a soarce
read or I.D. the
specs? thanks if you can im dun with fiido
thank you, maybe you can, I am upgrading a controller on one of my ebikes. the one that came with the kit is rated at 15a continuous and when i use the motor at full throttle going up to 1200 watts on the meter that would be 24a and i've had the motor connectors melt causing an open on one phase, so i searched for a higher capacity controller, got a 48 volt 2000w which should be colse to 40a continuous. in looking at the wiring there is no display connector, i have opened it up and looked at all the connections on the pcb and see a place that looks like wiring could go there for a display, and i am hoping with the connectors i am getting i can connect it easily to try it out, it may be sine wave and have smoother operation also, but i want the programming options i have with mine now that has the KT-LCD3 display. so do you know about using a controller that doesn't have a display connector wired in, and if i might get lucky soldering the display wires onto the board? nd will it be programmable with the display mine looks like yours mine says 48v 2000w
Hi, and thanks for this video. Twas really helpful, esowcially because i have the exact same controllet type.
My main concern is the PAS mod you did. My controller (same as yours) doesnt come with a PAS wiring as standard. I'd lije to add this feature because my throttle is broken.
Thanks
During voltage drop you can just inject more voltage
Not an expert but I believe you have to run battery’s with a higher discharge to counter react it like the Samsung 21700s
Is there any benefit to upgrading to higher voltage capacitors if my battery is still within the original capacitor's range?
My battery is a 52V, so fully charged it's 58.8V, my capacitors are rated to 63V, would I benefit at all from upgrading to a higher voltage cap?
My 1500w 52v Controller have 100v capacitors, CD288H is the part number. They should suit you fine
No
my controller will take some doing to mod, its not your typical controller, take a company that manufacutres cars and not jsut bikes and you get some intersting controllers that will either need technical expertise and or getting a hold of the schemetics. and I am talking about this controller in specific.
Intelligent Brushless ₩otor Controller
hase angle: 1200
Model: NJTZT-6GZE
Electric current: 25+1A
Voltage: 36V/48V
Brake handle: low level
Undervoltage: 29+1V
ate: 2022-07-07
Quzhou naijiate auto industry co.,ltd
like I said it seems that modding videos have ended and not many are being done now because of the complexity of the controllers.
E-bike manufactures are creating controllers that make it more difficult to tamper with.
this controller , is not an easy lock to pick.
Do you repair ebmx controllers
what does the PAS sensor do?
Good afternoon, Tell me the contacts on the circuit board : cruise control and 110% power
what is Hc symbol
By any chance do this thing have a speed limit or something? I running a 84v 1500watt controller and I just got a 72v motor thinking that with the lower voltage rating I would get more speed not it's the same thing I'm able to get why more torque and speed with a regular rc esc but because they unsensored motor runs hot and efficiency is very low I would like to modify my controller for more torque and more speed. Thanks
Your idea about motor being made for lower voltage than you have is generally speaking is right. So most motors of 1500w nominal are made to reach 60kmh. Than they reduce KV depending on how high system voltage is. (Low kV have more torque - physics)
I would say you did get the right moto for your voltage to get more than supposed to have speed (no real thrust sacrifice in your case, as higher voltage offsets it)
Thrust will depend on how controller handles it - max amp draw and watt SW allows and HW can support.
- adjust soft ware to allow more
- beef up traces with solder / copper wire along
- make sure fets(mosfets) are top notch (lowest resistance)
- use some good Panasonic FR Or FM series low esr capacitors to reduce noise in the system (causes heat)
- use very good thermal past for fets and controller
- Mount controller to the metal to help heat disperse
@@airBornFpv thanks alot
@@yulmerced4434 welcome 🙏
Another question, how does wheel/tire diameter effect motor speed and power? If I do build a bicycle, I want a 26" or better frame, with 20-24" wheels, I know the crank will probably need mods, but I need a low stretched bike due to leg injurys, and can't really peddle anyway. I like the mini bike looking ebikes, and cargo bikes, I will likely stretch the rear fork also, allowing for a rear rack, I have also thought about a trike,
there's a difference if i could get away with it i would use a 24 inch wheel.
sir if a have 48v 1000watts hub...it is possible to change 100v capacitor to increase the speed...
the top speed no load is 45kph
Changing the Caps won't give you extra power without replacing the Mosfets.
@@TheBrainSquared even replacing mosfets won’t do that much - if you install lower resistance more efficient once, you may gain 1-2% back due to higher efficiency, but that is not why mosfets are to be changed - real reason is to reduce overheating, specially if you running close to the controller amp limit (usually sw limited in edition to what HW can handle)
So yes MOSFETs are good to have replaced on cheap controllers, but for top speed to increase you need
1. Higher kV motor (rotation per volt)
Or
2. Higher voltage (get 12s instead of 10s battery for example)
= top speed will increase unless controller has SW limit.
Most controllers can handle extra 1s or even extra 2s without HW modes, but need to examine it carefully before attempting
@@airBornFpv Sure voltage will get you more speed, but current gives you the torque and the ability to reach that speed. I wouldn't just replace the Fets and call it a day, I would blow my controller as soon as I plugged it in..
@@TheBrainSquared look replacing fets will generate more torque only if FETs are the limiting factor - in decent controllers fets amp rating is WAY above SW amp limit, thus replacing fets will not do any torque improvement on its own, but may allow to over current if you change SW (rest of controller needs to be beefed up for that too though)
@@TheBrainSquared also incorrect about amp making the torque - it is always watts, not just amp
5v * 20amps = 100w will not creat same thrust as 60v * 20amps = 1200w
By increasing voltage from 50v to 70v you allow same controller design, for example limited to 20amp, to produce 1400w instead of 1000w (even if your unchangeable SW and HW amp limit is still 20amps)
hope it helps
Maybe a bit of editing, although wonderful use of the solder sucker.
can lithuim battery work with these? if so, what kind?
I use lipo batteries with one on a drift trike. Works so far
Dont get why you guys use these oversized controllers, got into scooter modding with a VESC and upgraded my ebike with that as well
Awesome controls, great bluetooth functionality, adjustable as fuck and manages 200A in the size factor of a 10A ebike controller with twice the voltage
Hi how to find this kind of product with Bluetooth and stuff ? If I googel vesc only a lite expensive thing
Like 👍 this video n your work 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Love your content!
Glad to hear it!
Hello. My ebike has a controller that has this simple, but wierd wiring configuration. it’s a 36/48v 350-watt 16 amp. The wiring is like this: 9-pin for the motor; 1T4 cable for the throttle, display and two brakes; one 2-wire connector for the front light; one 2-wire connector for the tail light, and one 2-wire connector for the horn. I was looking for a controller same wiring config but cant find one anywhere. Do you modify contoller for that same wiring config?
no idea there all different.
I have the same controller but it doesn't work at 36 volts only at 48 volts. Any idea what's wrong?
Just wondering if you could help point me in the right direction for a replacement motor controller for my ebike, it’s a elife natural 36v 250w thanks
Get any 250w/350w 36v controller and wire it up any will work you'll just have to do the wiring unless you find the exact one
I have a 1500w, 48-72v controller, I was wondering if it's possible to double the FETs, and allow the controller to think it's still 1.5kw, while being able to handle 3kw? How far can you go when over volting, the motor? 60-72v with a 1500w 48v motor be OK, for burst of full Power, I haven't much experience with brushless motors, what I'd like to do is 3motors, 1500watt hubs front and rear, with a 2-3kw mid, running around 60v, I have lipo cells to build a battery, capable of a sustained 600-800amps, in 3-4 in parallel , I'm a bit heavy, and have hills around here! While a mid mounted motor, around 3kw, would probably be enough to get me in trouble on the streets, if I can go faster than regulations, I want to do it up hill also! I would be thrilled to get 20-25 mph up hill, and 60-80 on flats, I'm thinking about a moped conversion, something a bit more substantial than a bicycle,
You most likely to run into battery limiting factor don’t forget about it.
Hi, i have a 48v controller and im going to use a 72v battery, i have oguht 100v 150a mosfets and 100v caps. I have already beefed the controller up. do i have to change anything else like resitors and stuff. becuase i do not want my display or something to blow.
I know you posted a year ago. When I read your comments - I found that I just ran into the same scenario. 48v to 72v and like you bought 100v Caps but my Mosfets were only 100v. Hence did you have to upgrade any other component ?? I guess I Can plug it and hope it doesn’t blow up. 😂
@@f.r.-th2js You will probably damage your display module as the voltage display is set up @ 48v not 72V.
Hello i am from Cuba please would yoy like to speak in spanish? I will very glad to you.
pls anyone can give me a motor controller?
Hello can u help me out
Y'a 32 A max not 50 A