I've found that a little more weight on the 3.5in actually makes it fly significantly better. My 3.5in builds range from 185g to 229g (without a battery) and the heaviest one actually feels the closest to a 5in. Sure the lighter builds give you more flight time, but they seem to lack the inertia that the heavier builds have. I still get 4 min on a GNB HV 850mah 4S on the heaviest one.
I found that with a 3.5" as well, the disc loading is all off otherwise and it feels too overpowered and touchy. With a 3" you can afford to be closer to that 225-230g ready to fly.
I have a 3.5" with digital DJI inside and it weighs just over 100 grams! The power to weight ratio is out of sight! It's so fast it's almost scary and it maneuvers like a big Toothpick drone! Corners amazing. So, maybe for tricks and power loops more weight is ok, but lighter is ALWAYS better. It gives you that huge power to weight ratio that makes the drone perform so incredible. I highly suggest you building an ultra lightweight 3" or 3.5" and see what I mean...
I run this and the crazyf411 in my crux35/Volador 3.5. I had to print new mounts for the antenna to work out, but the ICM gyro is a bonus IMO vs the BMI270. I know the BMI is cleaner, but ive had a lot of issues with the gyro going out in crashes, much more so then any other I've used.
Same, been using their ELRS gear for years. It seems a bit more expensive on the surface given the F4 processor until you factor is that you're also saving on the ELRS Receiver.
I did a build video on this frame a while back if you want more details. Build Video: ua-cam.com/video/IKHoPryhvCg/v-deo.html Motors: ua-cam.com/video/JV8NnNlx2vg/v-deo.html
@Mangorille i was going to comment on it but I'd already commented so much, flywoo is the last 2 aio I used and both offer side soldering and that helps a lot with the closeness I hate when the tabs are close and only on top like that but i know that those bee boards are good though.
i really love your vids and i will definately order this aio. i'll start building my first quad using volador vx3. it sucks that quadmula cant ship on my location. they wont even reply on my emails. these are the parts i'll be using and i will really appriciate if you can suggest replacements in case the parts i choose doesnt fit on my build. we have the same goal "ultimate lightweight 3 inch quad" and i also fly semi freestyle. frame: flyfish volador vx3 aio: happymodel super f405hd motors: t-motor f1404 4600kv props: hqprops t3x3x3 vtx: walksnail avatar hd pro kit batts: 4s
Thanks buddy! Parts list looks good. What exact battery are you looking at? Only suggestion is to look at 3800kv motor instead. Not that the 4600kv won't work (I've been using 4600kv for 5+ years) but those are a really high kv if you are targeting low weight and a small battery, which leads to more battery sag. Thoughts on what your target ready to fly weight will be?
@@Mangorille there is a local online shop here that sells GNB GAONENG 14.8V 550MAH 4S 90C XT30 LiPo Battery. they also have GAONENG GNB 4S 15.2V HV 660MAH 90C XT30 RC LiPo Battery. these are the 2 types of batteries im planning to use. target weight is around 230 to 240g or as long as its below 250g. we really dont have laws yet when it comes to FPV here but i just wanted to go with the sub 250g. i just noticed. the happymodel super f405hd aio doesnt come with capacitor or maybe im mistaken. just incase, what capacitor should i use?
@@flylowfpv The 550 is a small pack for this build. I've been using the 650 packs with good luck. I tried the 530 pack and the smaller cells have higher resistance which makes them sag more. A 25v 470uf capacitor is what I run.
@@Mangorille this is noted. imma get the larger packs then. larger packs with 4600kv motor it is. time to order the AIO and the capacitor. frames and other parts are on there way but im not hoping to finish the build before new year. im not really on a rush. i really appreciate your help. thanks a ton and happy holidays!!
Library, community center, school... Local hobby and builder communities. In the average location I can find a hundred places to do a print for me, on the day. A large percentage for free or very cheap. I have a couple of printers, and print all reasonably sized parts for free for friends, neighbors and acquaintances. It's not as difficult as you think.
@@lemonsquareFPV Ya, they've become pretty mainstream at this point. Check your local classifieds as well, lots of people will print for a few bucks if all the above don't work out. Heck if you were local to me in Canada I'd print it out for you, this piece takes 10 minutes to print.
most builds could get away with way smaller less powerful boards and still function just fine; you don't need a 55amp esc to fly casually, even on 6s, most people need to chill with their parts lists. BUT, this hobby also has a lot of cheap-asses, that will buy junk off ali-express (supporting Chinese slave labor) for pennies and complain that parts burn out. also, with most AIO they are indented to be installed at an angle, so the motor pads end up all weird. same with the power lead, it always ends up all weird. (I hate it)
Agree, the amperage capability of the modern ESCs are out of control. My build pulls a maximum of 55amps total so technically a 15amp ESC is all I need. :)
@Mangorille my 6s fox crooked pulls around 30 per 2207 2100kv motors with a high volt battery. :/ I'm not crazy good but I can kaak the throttle in the race.
I've found that a little more weight on the 3.5in actually makes it fly significantly better. My 3.5in builds range from 185g to 229g (without a battery) and the heaviest one actually feels the closest to a 5in. Sure the lighter builds give you more flight time, but they seem to lack the inertia that the heavier builds have. I still get 4 min on a GNB HV 850mah 4S on the heaviest one.
I found that with a 3.5" as well, the disc loading is all off otherwise and it feels too overpowered and touchy. With a 3" you can afford to be closer to that 225-230g ready to fly.
I have a 3.5" with digital DJI inside and it weighs just over 100 grams! The power to weight ratio is out of sight! It's so fast it's almost scary and it maneuvers like a big Toothpick drone! Corners amazing. So, maybe for tricks and power loops more weight is ok, but lighter is ALWAYS better. It gives you that huge power to weight ratio that makes the drone perform so incredible.
I highly suggest you building an ultra lightweight 3" or 3.5" and see what I mean...
Yeah but they all fly like shite compared to a 5”
I run this and the crazyf411 in my crux35/Volador 3.5. I had to print new mounts for the antenna to work out, but the ICM gyro is a bonus IMO vs the BMI270. I know the BMI is cleaner, but ive had a lot of issues with the gyro going out in crashes, much more so then any other I've used.
Nothing wrong with the ICM, it just needs a properly designed board with enough filtered power. :)
Looks good 👍. Happymodel gear has been pretty good IME. The price on this AIO is not bad at all.
Same, been using their ELRS gear for years. It seems a bit more expensive on the surface given the F4 processor until you factor is that you're also saving on the ELRS Receiver.
Olá mano vc tem o link desse frame
Bro, please send me the link to the propellers, motors, frame.
I did a build video on this frame a while back if you want more details.
Build Video: ua-cam.com/video/IKHoPryhvCg/v-deo.html
Motors: ua-cam.com/video/JV8NnNlx2vg/v-deo.html
How much does the 35amp crazy bee weight against this though?
The F745 AIO that SpeedyBee has? That one weight nearly double and does not have the ELRS built in.
You must live in one of those super restrictive draconian areas. Good bless the freedom I have in Texas…
Yup, Canada...
I could think of at least 3 different motor sizes i like to use on my light builds, some brands are making weird sizes as well.
They key is the AWG of the wires that the motor uses. If they are too thick, you'll have a difficult time soldering to the board.
@Mangorille i was going to comment on it but I'd already commented so much, flywoo is the last 2 aio I used and both offer side soldering and that helps a lot with the closeness I hate when the tabs are close and only on top like that but i know that those bee boards are good though.
@@JustKeepLivingFPV This also has motor pads on the bottom of the board but they are even smaller. :)
@@Mangorille I see, should try and put the middle motor wire on the bottom if you had 20aug would have to do a little B's flip flopping
@@JustKeepLivingFPV Very creative, I like it!
i really love your vids and i will definately order this aio.
i'll start building my first quad using volador vx3. it sucks that quadmula cant ship on my location. they wont even reply on my emails.
these are the parts i'll be using and i will really appriciate if you can suggest replacements in case the parts i choose doesnt fit on my build. we have the same goal "ultimate lightweight 3 inch quad" and i also fly semi freestyle.
frame: flyfish volador vx3
aio: happymodel super f405hd
motors: t-motor f1404 4600kv
props: hqprops t3x3x3
vtx: walksnail avatar hd pro kit
batts: 4s
Thanks buddy! Parts list looks good. What exact battery are you looking at? Only suggestion is to look at 3800kv motor instead. Not that the 4600kv won't work (I've been using 4600kv for 5+ years) but those are a really high kv if you are targeting low weight and a small battery, which leads to more battery sag. Thoughts on what your target ready to fly weight will be?
@@Mangorille there is a local online shop here that sells GNB GAONENG 14.8V 550MAH 4S 90C XT30 LiPo Battery. they also have GAONENG GNB 4S 15.2V HV 660MAH 90C XT30 RC LiPo Battery. these are the 2 types of batteries im planning to use. target weight is around 230 to 240g or as long as its below 250g. we really dont have laws yet when it comes to FPV here but i just wanted to go with the sub 250g.
i just noticed. the happymodel super f405hd aio doesnt come with capacitor or maybe im mistaken. just incase, what capacitor should i use?
@@flylowfpv The 550 is a small pack for this build. I've been using the 650 packs with good luck. I tried the 530 pack and the smaller cells have higher resistance which makes them sag more. A 25v 470uf capacitor is what I run.
@@Mangorille this is noted. imma get the larger packs then. larger packs with 4600kv motor it is. time to order the AIO and the capacitor. frames and other parts are on there way but im not hoping to finish the build before new year. im not really on a rush.
i really appreciate your help. thanks a ton and happy holidays!!
Is this the one I was asking about?
Happymodel makes two different 20amp models, this one that I reviewed and then a rectangular one specifically for their Crux frame.
Someone could just tape the T to an arm
Yes, that's possible.
"That is something that you can 3D print very,very quickly..." sure if you have 3D printer.
Library, community center, school... Local hobby and builder communities. In the average location I can find a hundred places to do a print for me, on the day. A large percentage for free or very cheap.
I have a couple of printers, and print all reasonably sized parts for free for friends, neighbors and acquaintances.
It's not as difficult as you think.
@@lemonsquareFPV Ya, they've become pretty mainstream at this point. Check your local classifieds as well, lots of people will print for a few bucks if all the above don't work out. Heck if you were local to me in Canada I'd print it out for you, this piece takes 10 minutes to print.
most builds could get away with way smaller less powerful boards and still function just fine; you don't need a 55amp esc to fly casually, even on 6s, most people need to chill with their parts lists.
BUT, this hobby also has a lot of cheap-asses, that will buy junk off ali-express (supporting Chinese slave labor) for pennies and complain that parts burn out.
also, with most AIO they are indented to be installed at an angle, so the motor pads end up all weird. same with the power lead, it always ends up all weird. (I hate it)
Agree, the amperage capability of the modern ESCs are out of control. My build pulls a maximum of 55amps total so technically a 15amp ESC is all I need. :)
@Mangorille my 6s fox crooked pulls around 30 per 2207 2100kv motors with a high volt battery. :/
I'm not crazy good but I can kaak the throttle in the race.