How I Fit My Guards And Bolsters, Beginner Tips And Tricks, Bladesmithing, Knifemaking Blacksmithing
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Having trouble fitting your knife guards? This video is a step by step demonstration of how I fit my guards and bolsters, with some key tips and tricks that will make things easier for you.
firecreekforge
/ firecreekforge
#knifemaking #tipsandtricks #bladesmithing
Great video and pointers. I really struggle with guards. Well handles in general. 99% of mine look like Stevie Wonder fit a kitchen handle onto a hunting knife.
Hey we're all working towards the next level, whatever that is for us individually!
Congratulations on the new sponsor.
@@natedawg9404 thank you!
Yeah. Making the tang larger to make the bolsters easier to fit was something that took me time to learn.
I still can only make them so big since I do kitchen knives with wa handles mostly. Same priciple applies to just doing normal wa handles as well, as ones i dol with metal bolsters and museum fit handles.
Oh. Also i forgot i was going to say. One thing ive taken to doing. Is modifying my files. So i'll take a normal file. And take off width, or height. So it can fit in the tang holes of bolsters, but still cut better than little needle files. Thats been helpful. Or i took a 4 in hand rasp and ground it down to fit in the holes i drill in handle material and widen them.
Also made a handle broach out of an old file. Since most of the use i put on files is handle work. It pays for me to just modify them how i need them.
Before you begin with brass, you can anneal it by heating up red hot, and let it air cool. It will be very soft and you wont risk it splitting if you hammer on it. That will help if you want to bend it as well, like curving the ends of the guard.
Love your work and your tip and teaching style, Keep up the great work thank you from a vet
Thank you sir and glad it is helpful
if you have a little bit of a gap, you can also use a small ballpeen or rounded off piece of steel rod and put some soft dents around that area, essentially doing the same thing but more locally to push the material slightly in. Then all you need to do is grind off the dents again just to where it is gone on the surface.
Yes, good tips
Hey man, good video. You should use your file guide on your guards. Use two drill bits to align the slot, and that will take care of over filling.
thanks for the tips Elijha appreciate it and congrats with Beaumont they look like great grinders ,,Mark
Thanks for your tips, your videos are very informative!
One trick I learned from other makers is, when working on thick guards, make bigger holes on the handle side of the guard, not reaching the recaso side, this way you have way thinner material to do the fittment. Sorry my english is not perfect but hope this can help you.
Thanks! Yes, that is great tip too!
To you and your family Have A Great Holiday
Thank you sir, you as well!
Hey Bro. Idaho is sure missing that beard!
Thanks for the tips man. I have recently gotten into knife making and this will help a lot
Great to hear, thanks for watching !
Awesome video, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Brisk morning, indeed! 26F here in northern California, but we warmed up close to 60F as well.
Yes, 26 feels pretty cold when you're used to about 80!
@@FireCreekForge absolutely! And touching metal 😄
Great tips!
Thanks for watching!
😂 literally, it’s warmer in Anchorage Alaska than parts of Texas!
Haha, yeah! We're far enough north and west we get some nice arctic weather off the plains
How did he finish? how do you get the bolsters into the shape you want? Did you use the sand belt?
Do you have any tips on how to pin the guard into the handle?
Snowed in Saskatchewan 34°F 🌬
Nice!!
Great video man! Where do you buy the brass from? Have been looking locally in AL but haven’t been able to find it
I got this on Amazon I believe. eBay is also a source.
It's really a pretty simple matter to thin a 6" file to narrow the width on a disc sander and even safe edge the adjacent side. I used to have a repeat job that required deburring a deep parting blade in a threaded silicon bronze part that let pinch bolts hold it at a point that was wac the proper end play for a stacked assembly in a female threaded tube.
Yes but I was referring more to the thickness of the slot.. which would make for an uncomfortablely thin file in my opinion...
Tuatahi racing stile axe is next? 🙂
I think, you would benefit from buying a juwelers saw with 0,5 millimeters thin blades and saw most of the material away, that you currently file out.
👍👍👍👍
Carbide? File guide for $150? Ouch, isn't there a scrap steel i could make one out of a file would skate on? Seems like anything good enough for a blade edge would work if not tempered or dropped.
There's some made from just steel, something like D2 I believe that are less money.
@@FireCreekForge how about grader blade?
@@billwoehl3051 that may work
@@FireCreekForge here's the plan for the canister: I made a 2"×1"×8" can, drew out a leafspring to about 1/8", cut out 7/8" by 6" for the cutting edge, then, drew out a piece of jackhammer bit same size and thickness of the leafspring for the spine, these will stand up on edge, leaving a 1 3/4" space for the pattern. Minus the thickness of the canister walls. Question is, does the jackhammer bit usually air harden? If so, how do I temper it back so it will do its job not deforming when battoned?buttoned? And the extra 2" for a full tang enough? Not sure what I want to use in that space to save powdered 1095.
What a lie !!!
What is a lie?