Thank you for the mention Scott, we all loved the video too! We're always happy to help wherever possible. Also, we've got an excellent support team should you ever need any advice 😁
Oh my god Scott, attacking some the internal surfaces with wet and dry!!! These surfaces should be highly polished but will now be left with fine scratches which wont do the new ball bearing any favours at all and Greg Novak, in the comments below, is spot on and I would urge you to take his advice.
@@macman6107 and when you consider they are the last components, apart from the wheels and tyres, to put the power down. They're slightly crucial in the end result.
Also use a big container of white vinegar to remove rust, very safe and effective, also cheap. let it soak, check it and inspect and just drop it back in if it needs more rust removal
OH MY GOD at 3:09 I am cringing at you taking sandpaper to those bearing races ! You have just destroyed them. Even 1000 grit sandpaper is far too coarse for those - they need to be MIRROR smooth. The cages as well need to be quite smooth, so rust and sanding them is going to wreck them too. The size of the bearings is critical, as is the clearance in the races, saying "oh around 22mm give or take for the rust" is not going to cut it. These things are measured in thousandths of an inch. You can try to piece those rusty things together in your kitchen, but if you put them on the car, I guarantee they will be failing in short order. You're going to have to bite the bullet and source some replacements.
Evapo-Rust: The most gentle rust remover you can get is probably a Rust Chelation product like Evapo-Rust (there are a couple of other chelation products that remove rust through a neutral PH chemical process). You can use it in an ultrasonic cleaner as well. I do not believe you can use SS steel, as the ball-bearings in steel are going to be harder and properly heat treated. I don't think SS is a good option to survive in that location oddly (nor will you need it as they'll be living in grease).
Also I wouldn't be surprised if those CV joints are standard used on Porsche, Countach etc (I've rebuilt ones on a Countach & I'm pretty sure we could have replaced them if required from CV joint venders a LOT cheaper w/o having to order from the Factory.) Don't forget it might be nice to spray coat all your steel newly plated parts or blasted Alu with Nyalic - a clear surface coating that will prevent any future corrosion/atmospheric attack.
Yeah, I suspect you will regret this approach a couple of years after you get the car on the road. You cant sand or mechanically clean bearing surfaces. CV's were probably a matched set with tolerances set by the manufacturer, not a great idea to mix them all together and randomly reassemble with new balls from a different manufacturer. The important part is the play and you never assessed if there was any before or after. A soak in evaporust is a great product for what you wanted to achieve, but to be honest at this point I think you are up for the new CV's if you want more than a few years out of the axles. What you effectively achieved here is like mixing up inner and outer races from wheel bearings after sanding the surfaces, obviously much less important on a CV, but the same principle. They come as a matched set and thrust faces are not serviceable, they are either good or bad.
Sometimes you have to invest in new parts, even if they are expensive... The wear will be bad in the next years. But on the other hand i have to say cool project! Good luck!
Outstanding work, Scott! Like you said, they look new. One thing I've always noticed about your work, you aren't afraid to dive in, screw up, and fix the mistakes. Haven't seen you make the same mistake twice!
A basic tool to add to your shop is a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Makes short work of removing rust and making a nice polished surface. Also you can put on polishing wheels to buff items to a nice finish.
@@stuarthoffman1633 a genuine car or motorbike enthusiast uses the kitchen as a workshop. Tried and tested formula.. Rite of passage one might say.....🤣
Excellent work, looks great. Would suggest either adding desiccant packs to the tubs or wiping with wd-40 to help reduce the chance of surface rusting. Internals should be perfectly fine now. And do right by Lexi, I want to see this build to completion. Can't do that if she kills you.
Oh buddy...you can actually put too much CV grease in! If it's too full the heat from the engine and friction can make the air inside expand and pop the boots off--or crack them prematurely and big mess ensues. I learned this hard lesson on a MK1 GTI many years ago. It's SO tempting to do this lol! Nice catch on the inner race BTW. Coming along nicely.
Great tip if you have smaller parts prone to rust, a second hand food saver/vacuum sealer does wonders, the make your own bag rolls are perfect for long items
Too much fun! Nothing like repacking bearing in the house. PS - Recall working with the Long Beach Naval Shipyard shops in late 1970s to rebuild / maintain gear on our destroyer. It’s a lot easier to work / consult with experienced workers. Plus we had pretty good manuals to guide us
Put some ACF50 on your rebuilt parts to preserve them and stop any surface rust forming. I use Bilt Hamber Deox when restoring motorbikes to remove corrosion, best stuff I've found.
To remove light rust, soak in 2-3 litres of white wine vinegar overnight. At about 79p a bottle, it's cheaper than rust removal products and can be less harsh on metal. I've used it on BMW components. Worth a try, before spending money on more expensive stuff!
Yes, the best and cheapest advice. Leaving those metal parts totally submerged in white vinegar for at least 24hrs and then he will find them rust free, this is how I restored some old rusted pliers 💪🏻
@@fedezotter Tip was passed onto me by my Dad. Engineer for 50 years who worked with racing bikes and F1 engines! No oil residue left and saves a tonne of money! Also done the same thing with a pair of pliers that were pretty ancient!
Soaking in white vinegar works for me every time. Can take a little while depending on the severity of the rust, but is considerably cheaper than some of the products available. I do, however, have to say that some commenters are right - cleaning the bearing surfaces with abrasives will affect the overall longevity of the joint considerably.
You did a fantastic job restoring and rebuilding those, Scott! They look better than new, and once again I'm not surprised. The care and attention to detail you've put into this project from day one shines through everything you do. This video series is one of my very favourites on UA-cam, or anywhere else for that matter. It's genuinely gripping stuff, watching this classic Ferrari slowly rise like a phoenix from the flames, to be reborn better than when it was new!... I just hope you got that table cleaned properly for Lexi, or you may have some more ball problems coming your way! ;-)
White vinegar, cheap and non-toxic. Immerse the rusted parts in a tub of it and let it soak for 1-3 days (checking on it at regular intervals), rinse with water, scrub it clean with soap and water and dry it. It saved a terribly rusted and seized seat track that I thought was beyond repair.
You really do have some big balls to take on a project like this, well done Scott I would have been shitting bricks and lost sleep over that little project
I may be wrong here Scott but at the end of the video it looks like you’ve missed out the larger boot clips? Each CV boot requires 2 clips. Another great video 👍
For the rust you can blast it with media or look up somebody around you who does Laser rust removal. But being what you do, I'd assume you'd want the highest quality outcome so those are solid options.
There's a 5-year-old called Hambini who has a UA-cam channel, and he knows all about bearings. I think I heard him say that stainless steel suffers from something called galling. It means a friction weld between moving parts. Hambini could tell you if stainless balls are ok.
Citric acid is your friend for rust conversion. Dissolve it in some water and submerge rusted pieces for 15 minutes. Oxalic acid (often sold as "deck cleaner) is another option but it requires longer to work and can stain the metal yellow if not cleaned off afterwards.
I don't know if you are familiar with the channel Birdman308, but he has many excellent service procedures w/ images and one great one is "Servicing the CV joints", which perfectly shows how to rebuild these.
So great watching you work and restore this old treasure! Thank you Scott! I can't tell you the pleasure and enjoyment I get from watching this car get rebuilt! Seriously out of so many videos on YT this build is the one I've stayed hooked on for the whole time. Checking each week for new videos and always hoping it will be a video on this car and you're careful work on it! God bless you and keep on Keeping on. Or as one person so very wisely once said, "Never stop Never stopping!" LOL!! I think there were a few complaints about something to do with the use of "Double negatives" or something but "I Ain't Not Done Nut'n Never No Times!!"
On my Mondial, those parts are interchangeable with Porsche 930 axles, and lots cheaper buying from a Porsche supplier. They look exactly the same, but should check to be sure.
With your expertise with Ferrari cars, you should definitely think about getting a garage, where you could build your projects and even get your own customers to service their cars. Also the wife would be happier with the kitchen clean, without grease all over the balcony.
I can sort of imagine the reply to an enquiry about the price of a set of four CV's for a 512 BBi - you'd probably need to be sitting down. That said, I very much doubt they're bespoke (or that Ferrari make their own) and I'd be looking to find out what other vehicles they were fitted to.
Those driveshaft ball couplings were a GKN system and even the Classic Mini driveshafts from the '60s all the way through to the end of manufacture had the same GKN system as did most other makes. I have used Simply Bearings for many years right back to when I was restoring old British bikes like Triumph and Matchless years ago. They are brilliant.
@@simplybearings Most welcome and I just speak as I find. Your website is especially good. Your bearings and sleeves are happily working in my '78 Mini 1100 that sports a BMW Twin Cam head.
Remember to "clock" the CV joints inside to out. Which means the big area on the outside should be matched to a small area on the inside joint on the same axle side.
Wow! What a transformation. They looked haggard to start with and they looked like new at the end. Coming along really nicely! Can't wait till the next update.
These videos are addictive mate, I can't fathom the stamina you got to achieve this project, it's insane. I wish you the best for your endeavours, you deserve massive credits.
Try evaporust,it’s water based, make sure your parts are free from grease,put the parts in evaporust & leave it near a radiator for around a month,& the rust will be gone,I know this works, I restored my petrol tank on my Suzuki, & I got the original silver finishing back
You should look at repacking those CV joints with Krytox 216, basically a lifetime grease made from non-organic fluorinated oil thickened with PTFE and with MoS2 as a pressure additive. edit: ah too late I see. Anyway another benefit is the CV boot won't degrade over time in contact with the Krytox whereas it will when exposed to the normal mineral oil-based grease containing napthalenic acid
Soak in white vinegar (acetic acid) overnight, then neutralise and wash in water mixed with a teaspoon of baking soda. Then soak in a 5-10% solution of phosphoric acid. This will react with any rust residue that you can't see.
My understanding is that you are better off to pack the CV joint with as much grease as you can reasonably get in under the boot. Benefits are to keep water and dirt out if the boot leaks, carry away any kind of debris from the CV joint wear, helps to ensure an adequate supply of grease to the cv joint and even aids with cooling. Good luck with the rest of the build!
Ball bearings are a specific type of steel, containing specific quantities of carbon(to enable the hardening) and probably chromium, they are hardened and ground, stainless steel will not be anywhere near as hard
I was about to say that, my grandad always used it to clean auto parts on the cars he restored, google has the step by step for it, works like a miracle. And other thing I learned with him was that parts like the u joint he will clean them, then apply a light coat of grease and wrap them in newspaper. I have parts stored like that for about 20 years and still look new.
Arise, Dame Lexi of BBi. You're one lucky fella. Great detailed video and happy new year. By the way, when she's ready do let me know when you're ready for a blast on some N. Yorkshire roads, you're always welcome for a coffee and a natter.
I like a scotchbrite pad on a bench grinder for getting rid of rust. People say you must thoroughly clean after though due to microscopic abrasive aluminium particles or something like that!
Scott, have you researched whether these need to be ‘timed’? The joint on the diff side of the axle, versus the joint on the wheel hub side? I’m no expert, but I recall that they have to be in opposite phase to cancel out a sinusoide turning pattern, regarding angular velocity.
Also maybe look at doing a micropolishing treatment (e.g. CryoHeat) on the ball bearing races and other bearing/rotating surfaces like the camshaft, crank etc.
Tind a piece of a Lancia, any piece will do, wave the rusty part at it. The rust should instantly leap off your part and commence a feeding frenzy of great white proportions.
Bilt Hamber Deox C is amazing stuff. Used a lot of it while restoring my mk2 Golf. Comes in a powder and can be diluted into any amount of water. Gets rid of all rust.
I’ve used Bilthamber Deox-C in the past to get rust out of motorcycle fuel tanks, really effective and you dissolve it in water so great for soaking parts.
the joints are simple gkn lobro joints...they will be the same as alot of other brands. there is a GKN lobro number on them. the balls can be found at any place that rebuilds axle. its not an uncommon size
There's a product in the US called "Boe Shield", They also make a companion product "Rustoff". These two products are simply awesome for rust removal and then longer term protection. I literally have it in gallon sizes on my tournament sport fishing boat. It is used to clean and maintain everything on the boat. Engines, pipework, exposed metal of any kind and fishing reels and tackle. I have no connection to this product other than I cant imagine not using them on my boat or my cars.
Soaking rusted tools in apple cider vinegar does wonders on rust. I've used it multiple times to remove rust from the interior of motorcycle gas tanks and it's awesome and cheap. No need for the junky tank liner after I was done. Tanks look like new after a few days
In simplest terms, electrolysis is a method of removing rust (iron oxide) by passing a small electrical charge from a battery or battery charger through the rusty metal to stimulate an exchange of ions while the rusty metal is submerged in an electrolyte solution.
For derusting buy Bilthamber Deox in powder form - 4kg bulk pack, this is way cheaper than Evaporust makes 20l or more, but any ph buffered Chelating rust remover (sometimes described as non acidic but do actually contain an acid to grab the rust off the part, just buffered to a more neutral ph) is better than rust converter or straight acid. They also do a gel ( bit like wall paper paste in consistency which is great for parts you can't immerse completely.)
I'd highly recommend wiping any untreated surfaces with a little ACF-50 for a bit of corrosion protection. You can also treat the plated surfaces, as the zinc plating is porous, and will eventualy corrode too.
Mix up anhydrous citric acid powder in hot water, 1 part citric acid 17 parts water, leave to soak, stir and agitate with a stiff brush. leave a couple of hours and rinse off and repeat until rust has gone. Its very gentle and works quickly.
While a little more time consuming, a cost effective option, Coca-Cola works great too! Just fill a bucket with it drop rusty parts in and walk away. Also works at removing grease and road grime.
If you are going to sand your races you could get silicon nitride bearing balls. They will reform their races. I've had good experience with refurbishing bicycle bearings over 120 years old. But in the end those cv-shafts are now only good for driving in and out of the garage.
When you assemble the CVs make sure the inner boss lines up correctly with the outer cage, small land should line up with big land, if you don't do this they will lock up. Same CVs as on my Formula Ford. Also countersunk internal edge on inner cv boss goes to driveshaft.
Using Oxalic Acid to remove rust: When Oxalic Acid comes in contact with rust, a chemical reaction known as a double displacement reaction occurs. This changes the rust (a.k.a. iron oxide) into iron oxalate. Since iron oxalate is a water-soluble salt, it dissolves in water and easily rinses away.
Here in the Us, we have a rust removal product called Evaporust which you soak the rusty object into for a day or so kind of like a chemical bath and saves from a lot of physical labor. It is supposedly non-toxic as well.
Steel wool for inner areas, wire wheel on a grinder for the outside stuff (thin wire) and navel jelly for the stuff that’s pitted (let it sit 5-30 minutes in a plastic bag then rinse with water and dry right away) buff with the wire wheel after to smooth out any surface imperfections. But to be honest some of those bearings look beyond help and will definitely need to be replaced.
Vapour blasting should have been used on many parts of this project…. When the wire wheel on the drill got used on the engine I was absolutely gobsmacked 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ At least it’s better than when he got it which is the main thing I guess. Would have sat there rotting forever otherwise! 🤷🏻♂️
Thank you for the mention Scott, we all loved the video too!
We're always happy to help wherever possible. Also, we've got an excellent support team should you ever need any advice 😁
We love to see it!
Oh my god Scott, attacking some the internal surfaces with wet and dry!!! These surfaces should be highly polished but will now be left with fine scratches which wont do the new ball bearing any favours at all and Greg Novak, in the comments below, is spot on and I would urge you to take his advice.
That was my 1st thought as well. This is one area Scott is going to regret not buying brand new parts. He is just delaying the inevitable sadly.
@@macman6107 and when you consider they are the last components, apart from the wheels and tyres, to put the power down. They're slightly crucial in the end result.
Before the elbow grease, get a 5ltr tub of Evaporust and leave all the parts submersed in them for 24hrs.
awesome .... ive ordered some
2nd that with Evaporust. It works very well!!
I've used this with awesome results
Also use a big container of white vinegar to remove rust, very safe and effective, also cheap. let it soak, check it and inspect and just drop it back in if it needs more rust removal
Yep. Evaporator for the win. No hard work after dunking them in. Just a wash.
OH MY GOD at 3:09 I am cringing at you taking sandpaper to those bearing races ! You have just destroyed them. Even 1000 grit sandpaper is far too coarse for those - they need to be MIRROR smooth. The cages as well need to be quite smooth, so rust and sanding them is going to wreck them too.
The size of the bearings is critical, as is the clearance in the races, saying "oh around 22mm give or take for the rust" is not going to cut it. These things are measured in thousandths of an inch.
You can try to piece those rusty things together in your kitchen, but if you put them on the car, I guarantee they will be failing in short order. You're going to have to bite the bullet and source some replacements.
Can confirm again... use Scotch Brite to clean. Nothing more abrasive than that. Use chemicals FIRST and then some mechanical manipulation SECOND.
Additional note: brass is your best friend here.
Evapo-Rust: The most gentle rust remover you can get is probably a Rust Chelation product like Evapo-Rust (there are a couple of other chelation products that remove rust through a neutral PH chemical process). You can use it in an ultrasonic cleaner as well. I do not believe you can use SS steel, as the ball-bearings in steel are going to be harder and properly heat treated. I don't think SS is a good option to survive in that location oddly (nor will you need it as they'll be living in grease).
Also I wouldn't be surprised if those CV joints are standard used on Porsche, Countach etc (I've rebuilt ones on a Countach & I'm pretty sure we could have replaced them if required from CV joint venders a LOT cheaper w/o having to order from the Factory.) Don't forget it might be nice to spray coat all your steel newly plated parts or blasted Alu with Nyalic - a clear surface coating that will prevent any future corrosion/atmospheric attack.
It's what hand tool rescue uses
Can confirm.... I restore Audis and use it religiously.
Yeah, I suspect you will regret this approach a couple of years after you get the car on the road. You cant sand or mechanically clean bearing surfaces. CV's were probably a matched set with tolerances set by the manufacturer, not a great idea to mix them all together and randomly reassemble with new balls from a different manufacturer. The important part is the play and you never assessed if there was any before or after. A soak in evaporust is a great product for what you wanted to achieve, but to be honest at this point I think you are up for the new CV's if you want more than a few years out of the axles. What you effectively achieved here is like mixing up inner and outer races from wheel bearings after sanding the surfaces, obviously much less important on a CV, but the same principle. They come as a matched set and thrust faces are not serviceable, they are either good or bad.
Hate to say it but your right here, matched inner and outer surfaces plus bearings work nicely,
Depends if it's a keeper or a seller... 😯
i fully agree
Sometimes you have to invest in new parts, even if they are expensive... The wear will be bad in the next years. But on the other hand i have to say cool project! Good luck!
My thought prosses: Don't be so negative 😡... okay you are right... fk 😂
Outstanding work, Scott! Like you said, they look new. One thing I've always noticed about your work, you aren't afraid to dive in, screw up, and fix the mistakes. Haven't seen you make the same mistake twice!
A basic tool to add to your shop is a bench grinder with a wire wheel. Makes short work of removing rust and making a nice polished surface. Also you can put on polishing wheels to buff items to a nice finish.
His shop being the kitchen
@@stuarthoffman1633 a genuine car or motorbike enthusiast uses the kitchen as a workshop.
Tried and tested formula..
Rite of passage one might say.....🤣
For cleaning the rust on metals, i use White vinegar ( apple vinegar ) for a few hours and then dry it quickly with hisopropilic alcohol.
Excellent work, looks great. Would suggest either adding desiccant packs to the tubs or wiping with wd-40 to help reduce the chance of surface rusting. Internals should be perfectly fine now.
And do right by Lexi, I want to see this build to completion. Can't do that if she kills you.
cheers buddy. Yer she's a great girl and puts up with my rubbish
Oh buddy...you can actually put too much CV grease in! If it's too full the heat from the engine and friction can make the air inside expand and pop the boots off--or crack them prematurely and big mess ensues. I learned this hard lesson on a MK1 GTI many years ago. It's SO tempting to do this lol! Nice catch on the inner race BTW.
Coming along nicely.
I also noticed that 70 - 90 grams would be enough. Large mass and centrifugal force will do their job.
Great tip if you have smaller parts prone to rust, a second hand food saver/vacuum sealer does wonders, the make your own bag rolls are perfect for long items
Too much fun! Nothing like repacking bearing in the house.
PS - Recall working with the Long Beach Naval Shipyard shops in late 1970s to rebuild / maintain gear on our destroyer. It’s a lot easier to work / consult with experienced workers. Plus we had pretty good manuals to guide us
Very cool!
Put some ACF50 on your rebuilt parts to preserve them and stop any surface rust forming. I use Bilt Hamber Deox when restoring motorbikes to remove corrosion, best stuff I've found.
To remove light rust, soak in 2-3 litres of white wine vinegar overnight. At about 79p a bottle, it's cheaper than rust removal products and can be less harsh on metal. I've used it on BMW components. Worth a try, before spending money on more expensive stuff!
Yes, the best and cheapest advice. Leaving those metal parts totally submerged in white vinegar for at least 24hrs and then he will find them rust free, this is how I restored some old rusted pliers 💪🏻
@@fedezotter Tip was passed onto me by my Dad. Engineer for 50 years who worked with racing bikes and F1 engines! No oil residue left and saves a tonne of money! Also done the same thing with a pair of pliers that were pretty ancient!
I'd get part numbering those up now, you'll be changing those next year!
You cant sand down bearing surfaces, they're shagged mate just buy some more.
Soaking in white vinegar works for me every time. Can take a little while depending on the severity of the rust, but is considerably cheaper than some of the products available.
I do, however, have to say that some commenters are right - cleaning the bearing surfaces with abrasives will affect the overall longevity of the joint considerably.
“Only a mistake if you didn’t learn something from it” is what my Dad used to say. You got this bud. Let’s carry on. Can’t wait to see it done!
You did a fantastic job restoring and rebuilding those, Scott! They look better than new, and once again I'm not surprised. The care and attention to detail you've put into this project from day one shines through everything you do. This video series is one of my very favourites on UA-cam, or anywhere else for that matter. It's genuinely gripping stuff, watching this classic Ferrari slowly rise like a phoenix from the flames, to be reborn better than when it was new!... I just hope you got that table cleaned properly for Lexi, or you may have some more ball problems coming your way! ;-)
Lol thanks buddy. Once I cleaned everything and the table, i fessed up and showed her the video 🤣
White vinegar, cheap and non-toxic. Immerse the rusted parts in a tub of it and let it soak for 1-3 days (checking on it at regular intervals), rinse with water, scrub it clean with soap and water and dry it. It saved a terribly rusted and seized seat track that I thought was beyond repair.
You really do have some big balls to take on a project like this, well done Scott I would have been shitting bricks and lost sleep over that little project
Rusty big balls it seems.
I may be wrong here Scott but at the end of the video it looks like you’ve missed out the larger boot clips? Each CV boot requires 2 clips. Another great video 👍
For the rust you can blast it with media or look up somebody around you who does Laser rust removal.
But being what you do, I'd assume you'd want the highest quality outcome so those are solid options.
There's a 5-year-old called Hambini who has a UA-cam channel, and he knows all about bearings. I think I heard him say that stainless steel suffers from something called galling. It means a friction weld between moving parts. Hambini could tell you if stainless balls are ok.
Citric acid is your friend for rust conversion.
Dissolve it in some water and submerge rusted pieces for 15 minutes.
Oxalic acid (often sold as "deck cleaner) is another option but it requires longer to work and can stain the metal yellow if not cleaned off afterwards.
On bike hubs we would use metal polish with grease for a 10 mile ride to polish everything a bit. Then clean and repack
I don't know if you are familiar with the channel Birdman308, but he has many excellent service procedures w/ images and one great one is "Servicing the CV joints", which perfectly shows how to rebuild these.
ACF-50 is a favourite rust protection for many of us bikers, it also does a great job at removing surface rust too.
It's a massive project, but you are living the dream, brother! Thanks for all the great content.
So great watching you work and restore this old treasure! Thank you Scott! I can't tell you the pleasure and enjoyment I get from watching this car get rebuilt! Seriously out of so many videos on YT this build is the one I've stayed hooked on for the whole time. Checking each week for new videos and always hoping it will be a video on this car and you're careful work on it! God bless you and keep on Keeping on. Or as one person so very wisely once said, "Never stop Never stopping!" LOL!! I think there were a few complaints about something to do with the use of "Double negatives" or something but "I Ain't Not Done Nut'n Never No Times!!"
You should get one of them media blaster cabinets for the small parts
If that drill slipped, you wouldnt be anvertising Manscsaped anymore
On my Mondial, those parts are interchangeable with Porsche 930 axles, and lots cheaper buying from a Porsche supplier. They look exactly the same, but should check to be sure.
when your conservatory and kitchen are soooooooooo much more...
Like a bearing shop...
great vid
Nx
Try soaking in white vinegar. It's worked well for me for years. Not to aggressive but will remove the rust. Time varies but one to a few days.
I love seeing all the little obstacles that have to be overcome to complete this project. This is definitely a vehicle worth the time and effort.
With your expertise with Ferrari cars, you should definitely think about getting a garage, where you could build your projects and even get your own customers to service their cars. Also the wife would be happier with the kitchen clean, without grease all over the balcony.
Outstanding! Another monumental task completed. Love it! Congratulations
I can sort of imagine the reply to an enquiry about the price of a set of four CV's for a 512 BBi - you'd probably need to be sitting down. That said, I very much doubt they're bespoke (or that Ferrari make their own) and I'd be looking to find out what other vehicles they were fitted to.
Those driveshaft ball couplings were a GKN system and even the Classic Mini driveshafts from the '60s all the way through to the end of manufacture had the same GKN system as did most other makes.
I have used Simply Bearings for many years right back to when I was restoring old British bikes like Triumph and Matchless years ago. They are brilliant.
Thank you for your feedback, always happy to help ❤
@@simplybearings Most welcome and I just speak as I find. Your website is especially good. Your bearings and sleeves are happily working in my '78 Mini 1100 that sports a BMW Twin Cam head.
Remember to "clock" the CV joints inside to out. Which means the big area on the outside should be matched to a small area on the inside joint on the same axle side.
You're CRUSHING IT with this build !!! Great work !!!
Wow! What a transformation. They looked haggard to start with and they looked like new at the end. Coming along really nicely! Can't wait till the next update.
Looking good man . Still the most anticipated build on YT for me , the BBi is gonna be so badass .
These videos are addictive mate, I can't fathom the stamina you got to achieve this project, it's insane. I wish you the best for your endeavours, you deserve massive credits.
Nice job on those!! Save of the century!!
I really thought i had killed them and beyond repair
Try evaporust,it’s water based, make sure your parts are free from grease,put the parts in evaporust & leave it near a radiator for around a month,& the rust will be gone,I know this works, I restored my petrol tank on my Suzuki, & I got the original silver finishing back
Should point out The groove in the housing goes towards the stub flange . The raised part of the cv star points inboard to the axle
Wow, hang on to your wife Scott, she's a keeper mate!! Stellar work, as always 🙂
thanks fella
You should look at repacking those CV joints with Krytox 216, basically a lifetime grease made from non-organic fluorinated oil thickened with PTFE and with MoS2 as a pressure additive. edit: ah too late I see. Anyway another benefit is the CV boot won't degrade over time in contact with the Krytox whereas it will when exposed to the normal mineral oil-based grease containing napthalenic acid
Soak in white vinegar (acetic acid) overnight, then neutralise and wash in water mixed with a teaspoon of baking soda. Then soak in a 5-10% solution of phosphoric acid. This will react with any rust residue that you can't see.
My understanding is that you are better off to pack the CV joint with as much grease as you can reasonably get in under the boot. Benefits are to keep water and dirt out if the boot leaks, carry away any kind of debris from the CV joint wear, helps to ensure an adequate supply of grease to the cv joint and even aids with cooling. Good luck with the rest of the build!
Thanks!
Thank you soooooo much 🙏🏻
Ball bearings are a specific type of steel, containing specific quantities of carbon(to enable the hardening) and probably chromium, they are hardened and ground, stainless steel will not be anywhere near as hard
cheers for the info
Electrolysis I've seen for rust removal on restoration videos.
I was about to say that, my grandad always used it to clean auto parts on the cars he restored, google has the step by step for it, works like a miracle. And other thing I learned with him was that parts like the u joint he will clean them, then apply a light coat of grease and wrap them in newspaper. I have parts stored like that for about 20 years and still look new.
Arise, Dame Lexi of BBi. You're one lucky fella. Great detailed video and happy new year. By the way, when she's ready do let me know when you're ready for a blast on some N. Yorkshire roads, you're always welcome for a coffee and a natter.
Thank you my friend, I really would love that if im up that way. Yes Lexi really is the star, letting me do all this.
@@Ratarossa I'll leave the invitation open whenever you're ready.
The rust you guys have there is insane. I bet those ball bearings would have looked better coming off the ocean floor.
Works Toilet Cleaning works pretty good at removing rust. Probably should dilute it a bit.
I like a scotchbrite pad on a bench grinder for getting rid of rust. People say you must thoroughly clean after though due to microscopic abrasive aluminium particles or something like that!
What an awsome job! That might have taken a lot of elbow grease, but what a stunning result!
Good Notes. thanks Man. I thought by now you were an expert of sorts but it good to learn more.
Scott, have you researched whether these need to be ‘timed’? The joint on the diff side of the axle, versus the joint on the wheel hub side? I’m no expert, but I recall that they have to be in opposite phase to cancel out a sinusoide turning pattern, regarding angular velocity.
Also maybe look at doing a micropolishing treatment (e.g. CryoHeat) on the ball bearing races and other bearing/rotating surfaces like the camshaft, crank etc.
Got a picnic table out back not in use..you are welcome to have it.. London area.
Cleaning up those parts (and your kitchen) must've been so rewarding
Alex Palmieri used that KBS rust blast and that was a nice rust converter… it was legit street cars
Excellent job, each tiny bit of this car will be like new! 👍
Thats the idea, it takes a lot of time and effort but it will be amazing when finished
@Ratarossa it will, i am sure. I have watched every video, and the attention to detail is everything this car deserves 👏
Love seeing the progress on this amazing car!
Wow Scott, those turned out amazing!!
Fantastic restoration work Scott! Really look forward each video drop and watching things coming together. 👌🏻
I bet Mrs. Ratarossa will be thrilled to have her sun room back once this project is finished!
Tind a piece of a Lancia, any piece will do, wave the rusty part at it.
The rust should instantly leap off your part and commence a feeding frenzy of great white proportions.
Crying dude thats so funny ....and true
Bilt Hamber Deox C is amazing stuff. Used a lot of it while restoring my mk2 Golf. Comes in a powder and can be diluted into any amount of water. Gets rid of all rust.
I’ve used Bilthamber Deox-C in the past to get rust out of motorcycle fuel tanks, really effective and you dissolve it in water so great for soaking parts.
I think you forgot the band clamps on the large side of the rubber boot.
"bearing in mind" as you're assembling your bearings. Glad you found your marbles.
I did think that as I was saying it LOL
Bilt hamber detox c is a common product in the uk. Works very well, they have a solution and a gel
the joints are simple gkn lobro joints...they will be the same as alot of other brands. there is a GKN lobro number on them. the balls can be found at any place that rebuilds axle. its not an uncommon size
There's a product in the US called "Boe Shield", They also make a companion product "Rustoff". These two products are simply awesome for rust removal and then longer term protection. I literally have it in gallon sizes on my tournament sport fishing boat. It is used to clean and maintain everything on the boat. Engines, pipework, exposed metal of any kind and fishing reels and tackle. I have no connection to this product other than I cant imagine not using them on my boat or my cars.
Soaking rusted tools in apple cider vinegar does wonders on rust. I've used it multiple times to remove rust from the interior of motorcycle gas tanks and it's awesome and cheap. No need for the junky tank liner after I was done. Tanks look like new after a few days
A company i know has a machine you can put turbo housing in, the come out keep
In simplest terms, electrolysis is a method of removing rust (iron oxide) by passing a small electrical charge from a battery or battery charger through the rusty metal to stimulate an exchange of ions while the rusty metal is submerged in an electrolyte solution.
For derusting buy Bilthamber Deox in powder form - 4kg bulk pack, this is way cheaper than Evaporust makes 20l or more, but any ph buffered Chelating rust remover (sometimes described as non acidic but do actually contain an acid to grab the rust off the part, just buffered to a more neutral ph) is better than rust converter or straight acid. They also do a gel ( bit like wall paper paste in consistency which is great for parts you can't immerse completely.)
I'd highly recommend wiping any untreated surfaces with a little ACF-50 for a bit of corrosion protection. You can also treat the plated surfaces, as the zinc plating is porous, and will eventualy corrode too.
Elbow grease and CV bearing grease. They look amazing. Well done!
Mix up anhydrous citric acid powder in hot water, 1 part citric acid 17 parts water, leave to soak, stir and agitate with a stiff brush. leave a couple of hours and rinse off and repeat until rust has gone.
Its very gentle and works quickly.
While a little more time consuming, a cost effective option, Coca-Cola works great too! Just fill a bucket with it drop rusty parts in and walk away. Also works at removing grease and road grime.
If you are going to sand your races you could get silicon nitride bearing balls. They will reform their races. I've had good experience with refurbishing bicycle bearings over 120 years old. But in the end those cv-shafts are now only good for driving in and out of the garage.
sadly I'm not sure if Ratarossa reads all these comments
When you assemble the CVs make sure the inner boss lines up correctly with the outer cage, small land should line up with big land, if you don't do this they will lock up. Same CVs as on my Formula Ford. Also countersunk internal edge on inner cv boss goes to driveshaft.
Can't wait to see the next episode.
"now - BEARING in mind" haha - spot on 14:54
Using Oxalic Acid to remove rust:
When Oxalic Acid comes in contact with rust, a chemical reaction known as a double displacement reaction occurs. This changes the rust (a.k.a. iron oxide) into iron oxalate. Since iron oxalate is a water-soluble salt, it dissolves in water and easily rinses away.
Metal Rescue or Evapo-rust. Drop the stuff in, let it sit a few hours.
ordering now cheers
Best thing I've ever found for rust is to use electrolysis. It'd be difficult with ball bearings but works great on everything else
I was going to say the same thing.
Yeah but it eats the good steel too. Does not suit bearing surfaces
Here in the Us, we have a rust removal product called Evaporust which you soak the rusty object into for a day or so kind of like a chemical bath and saves from a lot of physical labor. It is supposedly non-toxic as well.
Steel wool for inner areas, wire wheel on a grinder for the outside stuff (thin wire) and navel jelly for the stuff that’s pitted (let it sit 5-30 minutes in a plastic bag then rinse with water and dry right away) buff with the wire wheel after to smooth out any surface imperfections. But to be honest some of those bearings look beyond help and will definitely need to be replaced.
Great effort again in this mega project! Thank you ! 🙏🙏
Good tutorial on rebuilding CV axles!
Should have used HG Rust remover from B&Q or Evaporust, it's excellent stuff, way better than rust converter...
Vapor blasting is the solution for that rust.
Vapour blasting should have been used on many parts of this project….
When the wire wheel on the drill got used on the engine I was absolutely gobsmacked 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
At least it’s better than when he got it which is the main thing I guess. Would have sat there rotting forever otherwise! 🤷🏻♂️