I ordered mine late last year and I love them. Truly superior than my old factory halogen headlights. Also have the Morimoto taillights to match. Upgraded the sequential mirror cap lights, truck bed lights and license plate lights; all from Morimoto. Love the light output and quality. Thank you American Trucks for providing these products.
These look so much better than the OEM leds on my 2018. If mine ever get busted or fog up I’ll be shopping for something compatible from these guys to replace them.
I went with the white led for the halo and while it's nice but I would take the amber color route instead if I hate a chance to do it over since it matching much better with those three amber grill led. But that s just me
I just did this install today and it doesn’t specify that you need to run the cable for the DRL Harness. On the Morimoto website, it states in their instructions to run the DRL Harness to the fuse box. Yes, this is for the halogen version, not the LED version, which is the one I have.
If you have the drl function turned on in your cluster. They’ll automatically turn on when out in drive and will turn off when put in park. Just like the factory
thats odd, these headlights are 2018 and up. were you outside the warranty? Morimoto replaced my Gen1 with Gen2 due to an issue. Morimoto was a huge help.
This doesn’t seem to cover / need the fuse wiring which is included when purchasing these but also shown in the headlight revolution version of this video, what’s the deal with that?
I installed the amber edition version of these lights on my 2019 xlt Last week. My only complaint is there is a CLICK noise whenever the lights are powered on from a complete shut off and while engaging the high beams. The install was pretty straight forward given the fact that you have to remove 80% of your front end. One more thing, you can’t turn off the lights while the engine is running. If you put the light switch on off, it shines my DRLs brighter. I’m not sure if they’re meant to do that or if it’s a problem.
I thought it was fairly straightforward. But like the previous comment this video fails to talk about the DRL wire tap to fuse box. A pretty big failure on AT. At least for me because I'm trying to do this alone. But thank God there are other install videos that show how to install the fuse tap. But I have seen 1 install video that mentions using a 25 fuse tap (#37 I think) instead of the red #36 10 fuse the videos indicate. (including Morimoto video) I just installed mine today so I'll see if the #36 fuse fails.
@@donnelldoyle5340 A little update, I was able to get in contact with somebody from support and they are now recommending to use Fuse #16. I was told that this fuse will help with the lights being left on after turning off engine and locking vehicle. Fuse 36 remains hot for 30 mins after engine shut off and leaves my lights on for a while after locking it which I didn’t like. I haven’t had a chance to try but I’ll update you when I do. I have done everything by myself.. I hate the lack of explanation like you said, everyone has something different to say.
@@donnelldoyle5340 I also learned that there is not a way to turn off your lights while engine is running. You can choose from a dim DRL to a really Bright DRL. So there’s auto, Low beams, DRL/Parking lights, Brighter DRLs/ Parking lights. They didn’t say anything about the clicking in my fuse box whenever lights turn on for the first time or I engage the high beams.
Wow. The clicking is uneasy feeling. I'm tapped into #36 currently and had no issues with lights staying on 30 mins or so after truck turns off. Another video from RealTruck says EcoBoost trucks should be fuse 37 25 amp. My truck is the EcoBoost and I did receive an email from Morimoto saying I should use fuse 16 because I have EcoBoost. So now I'm confused. Fuse 16 and 36 are 10 amp and 37 is 25 amp. I'm not sure what I should do??? Any suggestions? Thanks for your info and help
Ive had these since the Gen2s came out. These lights have a TERRIBLE beam pattern for the price. There is not a clean cut off line where the beam projects to the road. It creates a horrible looking step pattern. Even if you aim them perfectly inline against a wall they are not perfect once projected down the road. The high beams are also VERY inconsistent. They create a beam pattern with shadow like spots down road.
Shop these Morimoto Headlights! : amtrucks.at/35RzHrx
I ordered mine late last year and I love them. Truly superior than my old factory halogen headlights. Also have the Morimoto taillights to match. Upgraded the sequential mirror cap lights, truck bed lights and license plate lights; all from Morimoto. Love the light output and quality. Thank you American Trucks for providing these products.
Thanks for watching and for shopping with us! -Zach
How was aiming them or did you have to
@@loud_evox1162 Aiming the lights was simple. Out of the box, required just a minor adjustment.
These look so much better than the OEM leds on my 2018. If mine ever get busted or fog up I’ll be shopping for something compatible from these guys to replace them.
I went with the white led for the halo and while it's nice but I would take the amber color route instead if I hate a chance to do it over since it matching much better with those three amber grill led. But that s just me
Awesome and very insightful video, thank you!!!
Thanks for watching! -Zach
I noticed you said 2,600 lumens , however I see some of the same lights say 4,000 lumens? Why is that ?
Because they are not that bright in the daylight. If I'm wrong make another video of these lights outside in the daytime
How long do the led headlights last before you have to replace them?
I just did this install today and it doesn’t specify that you need to run the cable for the DRL Harness. On the Morimoto website, it states in their instructions to run the DRL Harness to the fuse box. Yes, this is for the halogen version, not the LED version, which is the one I have.
If you have the drl function turned on in your cluster. They’ll automatically turn on when out in drive and will turn off when put in park. Just like the factory
I sure hope they fixed these or updated them. The ones for my 2012 f150 I currently run had wiring failures. Morimoto did not help in any way.
thats odd, these headlights are 2018 and up. were you outside the warranty? Morimoto replaced my Gen1 with Gen2 due to an issue. Morimoto was a huge help.
This doesn’t seem to cover / need the fuse wiring which is included when purchasing these but also shown in the headlight revolution version of this video, what’s the deal with that?
Plug it into fuse 36
Can I have these with the day-time running lights glowing amber at all times?
You have to order the Amber version. Otherwise it will be white led. When ordering it will ask you which color you want as your running lrd lights
So, do you not need to use the fuse tap? Or what is it for
The fuse tap is for the drl strips to be on during the day
It's too bad it completely does away with any type of orange parking lights. #fail
They have a orange running light one
I just bought the amber version of these.
Wich fuse do I tap into for halogen lights
Fuse #36
They absolitly do NOT out perform the OEM LED headlights. There is a huge difference. But these are still plenty bright.
Cry more
Awesome Rig anyone know wats that color called???
I think Piano black
It’s Lead Foot Grey
Is it really as simple as the video shows? Anybody run into any issues doing this swap?
I installed the amber edition version of these lights on my 2019 xlt Last week. My only complaint is there is a CLICK noise whenever the lights are powered on from a complete shut off and while engaging the high beams. The install was pretty straight forward given the fact that you have to remove 80% of your front end. One more thing, you can’t turn off the lights while the engine is running. If you put the light switch on off, it shines my DRLs brighter. I’m not sure if they’re meant to do that or if it’s a problem.
I thought it was fairly straightforward. But like the previous comment this video fails to talk about the DRL wire tap to fuse box. A pretty big failure on AT. At least for me because I'm trying to do this alone. But thank God there are other install videos that show how to install the fuse tap. But I have seen 1 install video that mentions using a 25 fuse tap (#37 I think) instead of the red #36 10 fuse the videos indicate. (including Morimoto video) I just installed mine today so I'll see if the #36 fuse fails.
@@donnelldoyle5340 A little update, I was able to get in contact with somebody from support and they are now recommending to use Fuse #16. I was told that this fuse will help with the lights being left on after turning off engine and locking vehicle. Fuse 36 remains hot for 30 mins after engine shut off and leaves my lights on for a while after locking it which I didn’t like. I haven’t had a chance to try but I’ll update you when I do. I have done everything by myself.. I hate the lack of explanation like you said, everyone has something different to say.
@@donnelldoyle5340 I also learned that there is not a way to turn off your lights while engine is running. You can choose from a dim DRL to a really Bright DRL. So there’s auto, Low beams, DRL/Parking lights, Brighter DRLs/ Parking lights. They didn’t say anything about the clicking in my fuse box whenever lights turn on for the first time or I engage the high beams.
Wow. The clicking is uneasy feeling. I'm tapped into #36 currently and had no issues with lights staying on 30 mins or so after truck turns off. Another video from RealTruck says EcoBoost trucks should be fuse 37 25 amp. My truck is the EcoBoost and I did receive an email from Morimoto saying I should use fuse 16 because I have EcoBoost. So now I'm confused. Fuse 16 and 36 are 10 amp and 37 is 25 amp. I'm not sure what I should do??? Any suggestions?
Thanks for your info and help
Too bad it has those christmas tree lights around the edge
They need to stop playing and drop some LED headlights for the 21 and up.
Ive had these since the Gen2s came out. These lights have a TERRIBLE beam pattern for the price. There is not a clean cut off line where the beam projects to the road. It creates a horrible looking step pattern. Even if you aim them perfectly inline against a wall they are not perfect once projected down the road. The high beams are also VERY inconsistent. They create a beam pattern with shadow like spots down road.
The overlapping beam pattern serves a purpose. So you don’t blind oncoming traffic
@@F150EcoBeast trash.
There’s no other lens options on your site you lied fake John Cena