I've had this problem twice now, it's the DFI oil in the large tank, for some reason over time the oil coagulates on the fine mesh filter on the bottom of the pick up pipe, this is the black cap with the 2 pipes on it, (the engine pressure pipe and the oil outlet feed pipe). Note which pipe goes where and then remove them, lift the pipe out and wash off all the coagulated oil from the filter on the bottom of the pipe, I used brake cleaner. You can either waste the oil in the tank, wash out the tank and use brand new oil or drain the oil through a very fine mesh sieve, i know this oil is very expensive. Refit the cleaned pick up pipe and refit the 2 pipes on top, remove the cap off the engine reservoir, start & run the engine (with water cooling) and the reservoir on the engine should start to fill up, once the oil reaches the top, refit the cap and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.
@@dmacfishing6971 Not really, when this mesh filter gets clogged, the header tank on the engine stops filling up off the large tank, the only way to be sure, is to take the tank out, undo the fixing cap, lift out the pick up pipe and examine it. If blocked, just spray brake cleaner down the removed pipe and flush it clean. Another reason for header tank not filling is the crankcase pressure pipe has no pressure with the engine running, ie the pipe is trapped somewhere, kinked or split. Apparently the DFI oil can cause this gelling action on the filter. Hope this helps.
In case you haven't found out that white device on the in hose to the reservoir is not a check valve but a oil filter, I also thought it was a check valve because of the flow arrow , after I bought a new one found it is a filter!
Maybe you can help so my oil tank on the engine is about 3/4 full. It’s like the oil doesn’t pump in, but I’m not losing it and I get the alarm. I even cleaned the screen that goes from the oil tank in the bilge and still no results. Do you think that could be a float problem?
With the engine running you can unscrew the cap on top of the oil reservoir and it should fill fairly quickly. You want it filled to the top. If not, disconnect the air line from the engine to the remote oil tank and blow air into the tank to see if it holds pressure. Use low pressure. Check for air leaks. That should also push oil to the engine. Give those a try. Good luck.
Do you have your oil tube going through your rigging tube? I put a rigging tube on my boat as I ran the shift/throttle cable, oil tube, battery wire through. Now I am getting oil alarms ever since I relocated the oil tube. First time out I got an overheat alarm and water flow smartcraft sc1000. I change the impeller and that was fine. Went back out got pass the marina and beep beep beep beep. Then I pulled the cover and bleed the oil tank until it over flowed. Put the cap back on and did not tighten all the way. No alarm but I had oil running out the back. I did not know until the marina called and said I was leaking oil on the boat under my rack. Again my problem did not start until I moved my tube inside that rigging tube. I have a 150 efi sw 2003
We ended up replacing the oil line and check valves and it worked great for about 5 months. Then it happened again. Found out that I had some bad oil that coagulated and plugged the pickup screen in the remote oil tank. Dumped that oil, replaced the pickup tube, cleaned the tank and put in some fresh oil. Been fine for the last few times out so only time will tell.
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I've had this problem twice now, it's the DFI oil in the large tank, for some reason over time the oil coagulates on the fine mesh filter on the bottom of the pick up pipe, this is the black cap with the 2 pipes on it, (the engine pressure pipe and the oil outlet feed pipe). Note which pipe goes where and then remove them, lift the pipe out and wash off all the coagulated oil from the filter on the bottom of the pipe, I used brake cleaner. You can either waste the oil in the tank, wash out the tank and use brand new oil or drain the oil through a very fine mesh sieve, i know this oil is very expensive. Refit the cleaned pick up pipe and refit the 2 pipes on top, remove the cap off the engine reservoir, start & run the engine (with water cooling) and the reservoir on the engine should start to fill up, once the oil reaches the top, refit the cap and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.
Thanks
Is there a trouble shooting method to know if this is the problem or the oil pump itself
@@dmacfishing6971 Not really, when this mesh filter gets clogged, the header tank on the engine stops filling up off the large tank, the only way to be sure, is to take the tank out, undo the fixing cap, lift out the pick up pipe and examine it. If blocked, just spray brake cleaner down the removed pipe and flush it clean. Another reason for header tank not filling is the crankcase pressure pipe has no pressure with the engine running, ie the pipe is trapped somewhere, kinked or split. Apparently the DFI oil can cause this gelling action on the filter. Hope this helps.
In case you haven't found out that white device on the in hose to the reservoir is not a check valve but a oil filter, I also thought it was a check valve because of the flow arrow , after I bought a new one found it is a filter!
That white part is a oil filter, not a check ball. Hope you got your problem solved.
Maybe you can help so my oil tank on the engine is about 3/4 full. It’s like the oil doesn’t pump in, but I’m not losing it and I get the alarm. I even cleaned the screen that goes from the oil tank in the bilge and still no results. Do you think that could be a float problem?
With the engine running you can unscrew the cap on top of the oil reservoir and it should fill fairly quickly. You want it filled to the top. If not, disconnect the air line from the engine to the remote oil tank and blow air into the tank to see if it holds pressure. Use low pressure. Check for air leaks. That should also push oil to the engine. Give those a try. Good luck.
Do you have your oil tube going through your rigging tube? I put a rigging tube on my boat as I ran the shift/throttle cable, oil tube, battery wire through. Now I am getting oil alarms ever since I relocated the oil tube. First time out I got an overheat alarm and water flow smartcraft sc1000. I change the impeller and that was fine. Went back out got pass the marina and beep beep beep beep. Then I pulled the cover and bleed the oil tank until it over flowed. Put the cap back on and did not tighten all the way. No alarm but I had oil running out the back. I did not know until the marina called and said I was leaking oil on the boat under my rack. Again my problem did not start until I moved my tube inside that rigging tube. I have a 150 efi sw 2003
All the hoses and wires go through the tube.
Hey we were at berryessa mothers day weekend and the 125 had a constant tone not a beep still ran well, any idea what the could be???
Sorry, but haven’t came across that issue before. Good luck.
Hope you find the problem but I wouldn't over look the possibility of an oil pump problem....good luck.
What was the fix?
We ended up replacing the oil line and check valves and it worked great for about 5 months. Then it happened again. Found out that I had some bad oil that coagulated and plugged the pickup screen in the remote oil tank. Dumped that oil, replaced the pickup tube, cleaned the tank and put in some fresh oil. Been fine for the last few times out so only time will tell.
What did the alarm sound like. Was it ever 1 long beep?