How to Upgrade the 1x30 Idler Wheels
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- Опубліковано 7 кві 2018
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#sharpener #sharpening #knifesharpening #beltsharpening #mobilesharpening #harborfreight - Навчання та стиль
Excellent video: very sharp closeups; well organized information, great tips (such as using the drill press to true up wheels). love the bright color repaint job. I have a HF 1" belt sander, and now I understand why some of my efforts sucked.. Thanks for the effort involved, and happy I found this video. (Actually, wish I had found it at the beginning of the cold weather, I could have used my time better.)
L.p. O.o 8
This why I love buying HF tools. You can take a semi functional tool and make it into a great tool. Great video sir!
Or you can buy a WEN tool for the same price and it works perfect out of the box. lol
Just finished. Thanks so much Cliff. Made a huge difference. tracks straight, no wandering and runs smooth. Thanks
Recently received 2 replacement idler wheels/bearings for my HF 1x30" sander. You did a nice job truing the wheels. The unit runs a lot smoother and quieter than ever. Thanks for the parts at a fair price.
Glad I could help
Fantastic camera work. I love the lighting and angles. Great job. Thank you.
Thanks for going to this much detail on disassembly and reassembly . Really provide tips on how to use drill press to hood wheels as well to ‘true’ them as well .
Terrific! The care you take to make the video enjoyable and informative is remarkable. The detailed close ups and explanations are pro. This is art. Re the bearings not spinning freely - they shouldn't - the correct bearings for pulleys under load contain specially formulated grease to lubricate the balls for the clearances and load. A seal keeps the grease from being thrown out and contamination (dirt, metal dust) from getting inside. The seal is a friction fit on the outer race which prevents it from spinning freely. That bearing is rated up to 14,000 rpm. It is quite good. Carry on!
so are you saying the bearings he replaced were ok he didnt need to replace them
For others looking to true the wheels:
I used a Dremel with a carbide burr while the motor was spinning. Made the process go so fast. The wheel was ridiculously out of round. I used a dial gauge to measure and it was 2.5 millimeters off! I got it within .03mm which is pretty damn close to perfectly round. It's sooo much better.
I don't have any lathe tools, so the Dremel saved the day.
Great idea. Bracing seems to be the key. The drive wheels we have on our website out machine lathed to near perfect also out of polyurethane instead of the hard plastic but not sure that matters much as getting at least round!
awesome video your king on working those harbor freight tools thanks again
I cant believe how easy you bearing went on... Mine I hade to use a pulley puller and press them back in and it was the devil!
Great video! Thank you for your time and the education.
This is a fantastic video buddy! Congrats on the new shop
Good video. I have the Delta 1"x30" sander with the small sanding wheel . I wanted to run it slower so I removed the disk sander and put a variable speed drill on the shaft and I can use the drill at variable speeds without using the Delta motor. Works good.
Hi Dread Cat, that was exactly what I was thinking of doing. Any chance you like to show off the final product and talk about how you made and installed the shaft and bearing assembly for the drill to attach to?
Another great video, Cliff! It’s amazing what you can do with these little 1X30 sanders.
Thanks as always Garry, at the risk of sounding cocky...you aint seen nothing yet! Waiting for the UPS man to arrive with a few "special" deliveries that could change everything.
Man you did a hell of a job !!! thanks for showing us.
After a few uses, the unit started vibrating badly to where it would move around on the base it sat on. I tried truing wheels but that didn't help the vibration. I noticed that the tracking adjustment part was vibrating forward and back very fast and if I held it back the vibrating stopped. I tried stretching the spring but that didn't help. I was going to take the tension adjuster off when I noticed the bolt was not tight at all. I tightened the bolt and the vibration stopped. I had to tweak it a bit so I could still move it when changing belts. The unit runs fine again.
Great video. Thanks for making it.
Great video. Informative and easy to follow, thanks for sharing
Love the paint.
Awesome video. Helps me a lot. Thank you.
Great video. I too enjoy "re-engineering " so-so tools.
Nice - and helpful. Glad you're still making videos. My machine is still in the box. Someday I'll get it on the bench and then will go back to these videos for sure.
P.S. Hope I didn't offend you last time. I realized pidgin comments might not sound right being read. Also realized the "cracks me up" comment could be misconstrued. I just meant it's cool that you're getting work from local hunters. I'm sure they're grateful to have you as a resource. Aloha.
Dylan Grey kk
Great job on the editing and voice-over! My H.F. sander is coming back to life. Just fixed the switch. Now to go true the wheels.
By the way, the motor drive wheel was REALLY off. Tried a wood chisel, but quickly dulled. Ended up using a wood rasp and it worked great. Top bearing needs replacement (ordering), but I lubed it with some Tri-Flow and it spins freely now. Thanks again.
Excellent. Thank you so much. So I’ve just slackened the main bolt for the trueing wheel and I now have much more movement. Consequently the leather honing belt now is not too stretched and works well. I’ll check the wheels later but in the meantime thank you again and sub’d 👍
great video. this will be very helpful!! thanks.
Just want to thank you. I just did the drive wheel and then both smaller wheels as you did on the drill press. Worked out perfectly. Now my sander runs much smoother and quieter as I installed new bearings in the wheels. Big differance !
Great to hear! Thats really the best news I can get is that is what useful information to someone at least.
@@CurryCustomCutlery I will add that of all the so called fixes, your method not only made sense, was easy to do and accomplished the best results. Even using a wood turning tool for the drive wheel is dangerous but the results are not close to doing it on the drill press. With me also replacing the bearings, I cant imagine a machine being any smoother or quieter . Now I just turn it on just to not hear the noise any longer. Now, my unit was the one with the disc sander. That thing was a disaster. I doubt they could have done worse if they had tried. First time i turned the sander on i had to grab it before it fell off the table. The disc was out of round, wobbled and the weight distribution was way off. As a temporary fix i just took it off. Then the sander was reasonably ok. I have since adapted a 3in wire wheel to the side. Get enough use out of it to justify the work doing it. Later on I machined the disc flat and round. Then I balanced the disc by drilling holes and adding in small screws. I used a home made propeller style balancer to get it to a pretty good balance. But it stays off because I use the wire wheel more. Anyway, I'm thrilled that you posted your fix and glad, more than glad that I found it. Happy new year to you !
Beautiful ob, and as always a superb tutorial!
Thanks, Many dont understand the real learning curve is trying to make good videos. The pros make it look easy but so much time and editing...
Look forward to the video on this!!
Hey Cliff, hope you get this message. Thanks for this video. I purchased a Grizzly 1x30 grinder, disc sander. It cost a bit more than HF and others but I wanted a larger motor and variable speed. Long story short...motor and variable speed is great....but the 1x30 is terrible. It would not track and moved hard right when starting up. The HF 1x30 is better built and stronger. I watched your video, did everything you did in video including straightening the bracket that holds tracking adjustment. WOW, what a difference. Took me a long time to true wheels but all is good now. Thanks, thanks, thanks. Jack D
Hey Im really happy it was able to work out for ya. I have heard that the grizzly build quality was lacking over the similar Rikon. Dont forget we got you covered for belts n supplies when you need. Website is getting a full remodel and new products added this weekend!
Aloha, Cliff
Really Nice Video! Great Restoration and truing of the cheap wheels. Just so you know you should never beat on a bearing unless removing it for replacement. It will work to install, but you can but dents into the balls or race. If you can, use the jaws of the vise as a press with sockets or pieces of pipe only to install new ones. Not trying to nitpick, but its how to do it correctly. I know most folks don't have a press. If you know somebody that does most will be happy to press them for you for free. I had a friend that worked for a huge bearing warehouse he informed me of this. I was not doing it correct myself. I had put a bad spot into a bearing that was brand new. If there is no other option, there's always a hammer, but its somewhat risky. Back then I had no idea , so I thought I'd pass this on. I will follow your video as a guide, I just ordered a 1x30 HF to grind some 1911grips fit that need the backsides ground out. I plan to sharpen with it too. I had been using a ken onion but its not the most precise sharpener at all. Awesome video !
It's definitely better I just bought one and I'm going to do the same thing .Thank you for the nice video!
Dude! Great video. Thank you.
Thanks man, I really really tried on this one. Editing is harder the sharpening...
Oh man this is exactly what I need to do!!
Thanks for the video. I purchased the tool yesterday at harbor freight. Yep, all the wheels are out of round…now I will figure out how to true them up. Very good series of videos thanks!
We have high quality poly idlers wheels for sale on our website for $12....work amazing!
Great Video! I just replaced the motor bearings and installed a new power cord on the same Delta sander. Just ordered the wheel bearings. Thanks for the detailed instructions.
That's what I need to do, replace the motor bearings. The motor is making a real racket, a buzzing sound, loud. Any pointers as to how to do this?
You’ll need a bearing puller but it’s really not a hard job. The toughest part was to realign the cases so the bearings and case were in the correct position.
Excellent job on your machine
! I just bought an old Rikon single speed and I'll have fun doing the same. I think I'll paint it forest green.
Good video. You did a great job truing up wheels and overhauling the whole unit. The yellow paint job looks good !...I bought a HF 1x30 and it seems to run pretty good. I'm sure my wheels could use truing also but for now it runs fine and quiet.
We now sell even better idler wheels on our website perfectly manufactured and ready to go
How would you tighten up that pivot joint on the tracking? I took mine apart due to the belt moving too much. Anything you can put in there?
Great video !!!! I love sharpening and have always used stones or manual machines like the Lansky. I recently purchased the Workshop Precision Adjust system but have been watching all your videos ane hope to purchase a machine like the Rikon VS-161 you deministrated but may have to settle for the Harbor Freight machine and rebuild it like you did with a speed controlled motor. I am in Upstate New York North of Albany and am retired living on a fixed income or you would get a visit for training classes. Keep up the great work and videos for us old timers who love sharpening to a razor edge. Best wishes from the North Country Bob Traver
good content and good quality audio video 👌
Did you replace the bearings for higher upgraded ones or standard ones?
Yery good video indeed 👍👍👍perfect sound and editing for sure, l wish l had the skills for that...Thanks for sharing 😊
Reviving the "Real Mc.Coy" Good Stuff !
what size bolt does a 1x 30 belt sander use the one that goes to the flat adjustable metal part
Thanks so much for another informative video.....I appreciate you sharing your experiences because it helps me so much! (one more thing, no complaints here....just sayin' )
thanks for this video, I have the same delta set up w/side table but replacing the bearings is the job at hand. Top bearing is rough. belt tensioner was informative, thanks for showing how to remove and replace. I have a HF 1x30 also. It's next. . Where do I get the bearings automotive parts maybe? We have Advance Auto in my town..
Use "Dupont Chain Saver" to eliminate bearing noises. I have an old delta 1x30 (so old that the main roller wheel is cast aluminum) but still in good condition. The idler wheels were making all sorts of gritty scratchy noises. Now they are smooth and verrry quiet. Used it on the motor bearings and anything else that moves. Now I only hear the belt and motor hum! This lube is waxed based and has teflon and molybdenum (so no dust attraction). Try it!
While watching this video, I thought about how "lubricating the bearings" would help... I never heard of the "Dupont Chain Saver", but thought of using Ballistol as I use that for a lot of things... going to see if I can find the DCS locally and check it out.
What's the easiest way to true these without a drill press or mill?
Lots of rust I see from that tropical weather. Have you tried the rust preventative called Corrosion-X? It's the best product for rust I have used.
Good video 👍 I have just bought one and there is vibration because wheels are not true, I will definitely be doing what you did in the video
Hey cliff I noticed on 1 of ur "awesome videos" that your 1x30 when running something caught my attention in relationships to mine which really got me wondering when using the thick abrasive belt . The one you mentioned having to remove the angle guide.. It was sounding ruff but didn't notice anything out of wack. Yeah yeah I kno how you stress the bearings lol
I'll try to send ya a clip of it and maybe you can catch something..
I'm not that Tech savvy but I'll work on it..
We did this before when u helped me on the angle guide, you probably where out signing autographs and don't remember lol
Keep up the great work you share with like minded individuals you seem to take care of the rookies to the bigger boys with your always informational advice and experiences with your videos..
All the Best
From the Ozarks.
Great video, I did all these mods and it turned out great. Did you ever find a better set of bearings that would free wheel ?
Shielded bearings will turn freely. Rubber sealed bearings have quite a lot of friction, relatively, and aren't necessary for the idlers.
great.. i have one but im not skilled enought to keep up with all that.. thanks..
Be nice to drop most background music and more vocal instruction could be heard but like contents
Thanks for helping
Are the bearings something hardware store should have on stock?
What size
Just found your channel. Loving it! You look younger with shorter hair. I know the video is old 😆 Thank you for all your instruction. You have helped me a lot. Subbed
Thanks for subbing!
Awesome thanks 😊
We now offer precision ground polyurethane sealed bearing wheels as replacements on our website.
Www.currycustomcutlery.com/shop
Hey Cliff thanks for all the great info.. You mentioned the bearing info but do you recommend any of the brands listed on ebay or your experience with one over the other as far as performance..?
I just got some sealed ones off of Amazon. Made sure the RPMs were within spec range. Its an improvement from stock but by FAR the biggest comes from truing the wheels out, however you get it done.
How did you attach the wheels to the drill press. I'm not sure how I missed that but I would like to try the same thing.
I got a large nut and bolt from hardware store and used it as a spindle that I then chucked up.
Where did you get the bearings,# number , thanks . Great job
Excellent cid sir! Also, what is the ID of those rubber wheels after the breaing set is removed? Thanks!
6202-2RS is the bearing size
Great job, thanks, I enjoyed watching your mods. & upgrades. :)
Really appreciate all your comments. Im hoping to take some of these new video skills and make a series of (hopefully) high quality sharpening lessons next.
The *sharpening lessons* would be great, especially if you'd do one on sharpening *Lawn Mower Blades* . Thanks. :)
Nice tutorial
Great video, thanks. Should the wheels be perfectly flat? Why are the crowned?
From the factory wheels are crowned to allow the belt to stay on center and be adjustable.
Hey there.I have a problem with spring mechanism.It is not moving forward .How can I fix it?
Thanks .
Id refer to my oldest video on mods done to my hf 1x30. In that video I discuss the arm not moving free forward. First make sure the pivot nut is loose enough to allow movement, then behind the swing arm when the spring lives look for mfg defect of extra little bit of frame material. Use your eyes(not sarcastic) n feel to picture n see where it needs to move. Something is blocking back there. Ive seen it before. Good luck!
I've got the Harbor Freight model and also the idea arm is stiff as yours and seems most people easier to load their belts and mine barely lines belts after seems like the handle will break if turned any further. Plans to remove clean all paint adding your Teflon trick will probably solve my problem. The sound of your voice was drowning out earlier but later I didn't struggle to hear your teaching.
Great video for mostly but earlier volume. Thanks for showing me
It was first attempt doing a voice over a few years ago. Harder the it seems.
How did you get the bearing off the tracker, I noticed you passed that up. I’m having a time with mine.
They can be a little sticky...small puller or couple cats paw at same time...
I see the angle guide and parts URL, but I don't see the bearing. Do you have that part number, or did I miss something? Thanks.
Sorry to all for not having that info in there.
I think it was a 6022. The video is 5yrs old. Now I sell perfect trued idlers with bearing for $15 in my shop
Hi Cliff what is your opinion on the AMK 75 1x30 belt sharpening they sell?
Its a motor that turns a belt. Its horizontal only. Its edge trailing only. It uses the "clamp on a stick" method which is slow so many just free hand. If thats the case you could turn a $150 rikon on its back and do the exact same thing,
where is the best place to get replacement motors/parts for these units?
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/machine-parts
Would skate board wheels be good as a replacement for the two idler wheels?
No really, the shaft dimensions are different and other things. The stock wheels are fine and can easily be upgraded in the bearings and trued if desired.
So how did you get the bearing off the idler assembly so it could be pulled through the housing. I'm stuck at that point and you jumped right over it in the video. Guess I will be looking for a small puller of some type.
Yeah sorry if I missed a detail somewhere. The tracking/tension idler tire with bearing can be stuck even after you take the snap ring off. Ive had to use a small puller best I could before. Once I get them off I always use a bit of sandpaper to smooth the shaft down a bit so it goes on n off easier.
where did you get the replacement bearings? also how do i know the size ect...?
I think the information's in the video description?
I just bought one of these sanders. To be honest not much vibration at all. Only issue is thebelt speed and the belt joint chatter from the invoices elcheapo sanding belt included. I ordered some quality belts and Timkin bearings for the idlers. I'm researching sewing machine motors to replace the high speed motor included. Can you offer any help as to narrow/shorten my search/time for such motor? Thanks for the time you spend on the videos, good content, subscribed!
Sorry I missed your question. Sewing machine motors and penn state lathe motors are the goto options out there. Email or message me for more info if needed.
Will the idler wheels you offer for the HF 1x30 belt sander require trueing like the original wheels?
The ones I sell are trued better then factory. I do the work here in house.
better than ya can buy !!!
I can’t seem to get my belt to adjust enough to cover the right side of the platen. Could that be from my wheels being off like yours were?
Top Idler is a fixed point. Can adust the drive wheel out to match belt coverage...then after that Id try to adjust platen to align behind a belt thats been properly centered as just described. Hope that helps...
Thanks. I didn’t think to adjust the drive wheel.
Hi Cliff
Your video has given me the incentive to rip my HF 1X30 apart and give 'er a good goin' over. What are the sizes of the bearings and where did you find them? Mine seems to run pretty decent, but MAN does it click and chatter right after I tighten the main drive wheel set screw. It sounds like the set screw is just hitting the very edge of the shaft flat, but close inspection says no it isn't? Not sure what the heck causes that sound? It's a clacking sound like a tooth missing from a gear? Everything seems to be tight? Thanks again for your great videos. Keep 'em comin'.
Merry Christmas.
God bless:
Stoney, Dave
Move your main drive wheel out a faction and clack should go away...
@@theIndoCurrys Thank you. Will do.
Stoney
Truing the wheels is only the easiest thing if you have a drill press:) can you suggest another way without a drill press?
Colin I sent a batch out to a machinist. Waiting now for them to return and then I will be offering kits.
What brand(s) of belts do find are the best.
Ceramic for material removal and trizact for smooth finish
I haven't trued up the wheels on my HF 1x30 but it seems to run straight. Should I still take it apart and check them? Is truing the wheels just for getting the belt to track straight or does it have other benefits? Thanks for the video!
Truing the wheels is a secondary thing that allows the belt and machine to run a little smoother and a tad but quieter. That is all. Not critical but some wheels are way out of whack so it can help.
Cliff, based on your approach I took a treadmill motor and fitted it to my HF 1X30. In doing so I needed to increase the bore size of the main pulley to 17mm on my drill press. Once re-installed the main pulley has a slight wobble which causes the belt to move side to side by about 1/16+ inch during operation. The belt stays firmly on the pulley during operation but I would like to fix it. I did a little truing of the main pulley but without a solid fixed "orthogonal" reference I did not want to make it worse. It seemed to get a bit better. Any ideas from anyone ?
Without seeing its hard but from what your describing Id do the sharpie around the perimeter and see if you have any high or low spots and remove those like I did or with course sandpaper and a block placed towards the back. If the wheel is wobbling side to side(also can be checked with a stationary sharpie) Id probably do something similar from the side. Worst case you can order a replacement wheel from grizzly.com for about $15 I think it was. I have some in with a machinist right now, thats another option as they should be able to get anything dead tru on a lathe. Good luck man!
Could I bother you for the bearings specs? Thanks
Last good quality I bought separate were:
6202-2RS from amazon
That would be awesome.....if you decide to do aiming thing like this I would be willing to send you mine for you to tune up and put a variable speed motor on it if it would not be to expensive. If so I can I contact you to discuss
All options on the table at this point but I think shipping costs could cripple it. I will be reviewing an out of the box variable speed machine in next couple days, keep an eye out for that. Its the first production 1x30 with variable speed Ive ever seen or heard of so very excited to check it out. cheers :)
Background Music Ruined any Pleasure watching this Video. A shame since the video content was Outstanding
Yep, learned alot making this video. What to do and not do. Not easy
Do you happen to know the size of these bearings? have no numbers on mine. Thanks bud
I believe it's 5022 and it should be in the description of the video
It’s not there that I could see. I will be hitting you up on your belts soon though. Thanks
"I OPEN and GREASE every bearing" ... (I hope you did / just pop the rubber 'race-cover' off) ... GREAT CLIP / Machine !.
Hey cliff. I was hoping you could help me with a few things...
I bought an old 1x30 dayton belt grinder 1/4hp motor with a bunch of old belts.
Tried to grind a fairly big blade with a 50 grit and belts keep breaking after a few sweeps.
Am I grinding wrong?
Are the belts too old?
Is the blade too big? 8inches long
Can i get away with putting a more powerful motor? 3/4hp?
Thanks in advance!
If its breaking at the joint and the joint tape maybe looks dusty, they be too old. Ive experienced that with a mess of 1x42 belts I received. Tried lots of things to reglue, clamped the joint down and used packing tape and 3m industrial spray glue was the best I got but a pain to do each belt and still not 100% reliable. Nothing like a belt popping to wake you up right?
Id think to order some fresh belts. Best part about a 1x30 is belts are inexpensive. For heavy stock removal you cant beat the orange norton blaze. Check my latest belt video for a full list of things Ive found. Cheers
Curry Custom Cutlery
thanks so much for the reply. I watched 2 videos of belt reviews yesterday. Ill be purchasing from supergrit.com today.
I think I sanded my drive wheel down too far... I notice two different replacements in your shop. What's the difference between the two? Is there any way to purchase a pre-trued wheel from you?
Both the stock and 15mm bored out drive wheels come trued up from us. Sorry to hear you may have went to far but a stock replacement is $15 so not too bad.
@@CurryCustomCutlery Excellent, thank you for replying! May just have to buy one from you. Now to figure out how to true the smaller pulleys with just a drill. Right now the darn thing is so chattery it's impossible to get a good edge on a knife.
@@andie_pants try the sharpie trick to see where the high n low spots are. You can do it while on the machine itself but its tricky
What's the replacement bearing #?
Its in the description above...WHEEL BEARING INFO: 6202-2RS
$55 + labor to get the HF in working true condition or grab new true idlers pulley for an extra $40 or grab the wen for $80? Judging from your review on the wen... The wen seem to be true?
The pulley on the HF is so bad the belt is sanding my angle guild.
What size pulley is the w small wheel?
Its a toss up honestly since they both run too fast at 3450 to make a true sharpening machine. The WEN did run smoother but the frame had more flex. The HF rubbing the angle guide is where you should adjust your platten back slightly I think. Good luck.
These are things I need to do on mine...I did a little...but it needs more...it's definitely louder than it should be...I need to get fresh wheels for it...does anyone make aluminum wheels for them?
Just this year I secured manufacturing of precision replacement idlers wheels made out of polyurethane with sealed bearings. They are exceptional...
currycustomcutlery.com/shop/machine-parts/1x30-idler-wheel-trued-w-bearing/
@@CurryCustomCutlery Already have them bookmarked...lol
Great video. Ordered the bearings and immediately cracked the top wheel on my Delta 1x30 grinder. Any idea where reasonably priced replacement wheels can be found???
I think he has spare parts for sale in his website.
Ebay
I'm on the fence about the background music.
I ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO VERY MUCH .I OWN A SILVER STAG AND PRESENTLY AM HAVING ANOTHER ONE MADE SPECIFICALLY FOR FILLETING FISH AND GUTTING DEER , AND CUTTING UP STEAKS AND REMOVING SILVER SKIN AND CUTTING A COOKED STEAK IN THE FIELD .I AM NOT AGRESSIVE WITH MY CUTTING TECHNIQUE. MY FRIEND WHO IS VERY ACCOMPLISHED IN ELECTRONICS LIKE YOU WILL CONVERT THE 1" X 30" BELT SANDER TO VARIABLE SPEED ...MY QUESTION TO YOU .I DO NOT INTEND ON SHARPENING MY KNIFES ON SAND PAPER OR USING THE VARIOUS TYPES OF GRIT STONES. THAT LEAVES THE 1 X 30 BELTS. IAM THINKING 1 X 30 IN 220/400 THEN LEATHER OR 400/1000 THEN LEATHER .WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND PLEASE AND WHAT TYPE COMPOSITE CERAMIC , ZERCONIA ETC //THANK YOU .
Without removing more material then needed from the knife you will need to use at least one more agressive ceramic belt like 120 grit to remove damage, re-profile, & re-apex to bring up a burr.
A second step is a refinement and sharpening step. Prefer a structured abrasive like Trizact A30(600grit)
3rd and final step is a light stropping step. I have abrasives and angle guides available on my website:
www.currycustomcutlery.com/products
For the leather belt Id check Amazon.
Where can I get that scissor arm?
Scissor arm is from the Viel s-10 attachment. Best bang for the buck.
@@CurryCustomCutlery Where can I get one?
@@dennisandrews8485 www.elitetools.ca/en/product/scissor-sharpener-s-10/
u know it is time for yet another penn state......get it coming..........nice job.....yellow is good too - see ya
Haha too true Max, thanks!
Good enough video. Wish you'd have shown the wheel and bearing removal, which happened off camera.
Maybe you missed it? at 45secs into video I show step by step removing the top idler shaft, the removing the bear from the wheel and the shaft from the bearing. Also is shown the snap ring pliers being used to remove the rear one? Its pretty clear.
ua-cam.com/video/-84-QeuHMVo/v-deo.html
@@CurryCustomCutlery Yeah my apologies. I must have had a micro sleep or something, because I did totally miss it. I got it done in the end but it would have been easier if I'd payed attention : )
Cliff is there any way that you could possibly give us the bearing number please.
Yeah sorry Phil...I would have listed it below if I was totally stoked on them, I am currently not. They are not free spinning and developed heat quickly. We do have a local bearing company I want to go down and discuss with them ASAP and I will do a quick follow up video. At that point I should be able to recommend with confidence. Hang tight, sorry.
Curry Custom Cutlery thank you so much for looking into that it would be great I love my machine it does have some quirks though.
@@tofino50 6202-2RS...sorry it took me 8 months to get back.
It looks like a Delta bearing replacement, not HF. ??
Same components. Identical
Curry Custom Cutlery 👍thanks
Correct me if I'm wrong but this is not a Harbor freight belt sander.
Grizzly, Delta, and a hundred other names all are based off the Harbor Freight and the parts are identical. Grizzly may even have been first.