Best video ever!!! all other videos, talk way too much and complicate everything my God you have simplified it to where anyone can do this. Thank you man.
Thanks!! I think this is the most straightforward tutorial video I've found (I've watched 3 so far). I'm trying to rig this up for sourdough proofing box with Mangrove Jack heat mat.
I have a 30amp digital thermostat arriving in a few days and my plan is simply to bypass my fridge's old mechanical thermostat. There is a metal cover on the back of the appliance, which covers the wires going to the existing thermostat inside the fridge section. I will clip off the two connectors to that thermostat, then run two new wires (of sufficient gauge and length) into the cabinet and wire nut everything accordingly. I'll then replace the temperature probe and feed those wires through the same portal. I want to site the digital box on top of the fridge, so I can check the temp, etc. as needed. The only thing to keep in mind ... check the electrical specs of the old mechanical thermostat, as the LRA ratings for some fridge compressors are quite high. My fridge shows an LRA value of 21.5! ... hence buying a 30amp model thermostat. LRA ("locked-rotor amps") is the amount of amps required to actually start the compressor motor, when the fridge kicks on. (Once the motor has started spinning, the amperage draw is much lower).
Excellent video sir! I'm trying to bypass the thermostat on a water chiller.. so it seems like I can just take the thermostat on the chiller out of the circuit and just use the STC as a relay pretty much right I shouldn't have to provide any additional power? That's the chiller already has its own power supply I just want to talk a little thermostat on and off. Am I on the right track?
I have no problem wiring the brain and getting it to work, but I have tried 2 different cords now with the ports 7 and 8 to use my mini fridge in a similar way to you, and both times, with both cords, the circuit has not worked. Any suggestions?
@@robfaris26 hey just wanted to share with you I took it up just like you did yours and it is doing what it was supposed to do. Thank you so much I don’t know why you don’t have your videos just did not get to the point and simplify. Thank you.
You still need to disconnect your fridge temperature sensor, don't you? I have a problem of trying to build a meat aging refrigerator and my fridge temp. sensor on/off window is way too wide, 7 degree, I think. I plugged the fridge into the Bayite BTC-201 and the BTC-201 into the wall outlet. The BTC-201 sensor inside the fridge and set the BTC to turn on at 38 and off at 36 (gave it a 2 degree window). But it didn't work, because even when the fridge turns on by the BTC, it still has to go through the fridge internal thermostat. So, the 7+ degree on/off window's still there (I set the fridge at max and this fridge can go all the way down to 32).
Daniel - I believe that in most applications there is no need to modify the fridge -- just set the fridge to its lowest setting and allow the external controller to turn the fridge on and off. The external controller uses hysteresis to avoid fridge cycling. Your particular application might be different.
robfaris26 I am building a beef aging refrigerator. So, a constant temperature is very important to me. I just figure out a simple way to bypass the fridge thermostat (electronic one), by just shorting the wire of the sensor together.
I'm not an electrician, but my understanding is that black is "hot" and white is "return". The circuit breakers and switches in your house (and house appliances) all make/break "black" or "hot".
Okay what about the ground wire, I guess you don’t even have to connect the ground to the unit? Just connect the ground on all three units or just connect the ground to the outlet if your going to connect it like that
Best video ever!!! all other videos, talk way too much and complicate everything my God you have simplified it to where anyone can do this. Thank you man.
I was looking 2 days proper video about this and finally i found it, big thx man !
Other videos confused me awesome video thank you so much.
Thank you for confirming the isolation between the brain and the switch(es). Excellent video.
Thanks!! I think this is the most straightforward tutorial video I've found (I've watched 3 so far). I'm trying to rig this up for sourdough proofing box with Mangrove Jack heat mat.
Jules Verne
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Merci pour
Few days looking to make it work and found this! thank you!
Perfect video. Told exactly what I needed to know. THANKS!!!
Worked for me. Thanks.
I have a 30amp digital thermostat arriving in a few days and my plan is simply to bypass my fridge's old mechanical thermostat. There is a metal cover on the back of the appliance, which covers the wires going to the existing thermostat inside the fridge section. I will clip off the two connectors to that thermostat, then run two new wires (of sufficient gauge and length) into the cabinet and wire nut everything accordingly. I'll then replace the temperature probe and feed those wires through the same portal. I want to site the digital box on top of the fridge, so I can check the temp, etc. as needed. The only thing to keep in mind ... check the electrical specs of the old mechanical thermostat, as the LRA ratings for some fridge compressors are quite high. My fridge shows an LRA value of 21.5! ... hence buying a 30amp model thermostat. LRA ("locked-rotor amps") is the amount of amps required to actually start the compressor motor, when the fridge kicks on. (Once the motor has started spinning, the amperage draw is much lower).
thank you this really cleared up my confusion
Excellent video sir!
I'm trying to bypass the thermostat on a water chiller.. so it seems like I can just take the thermostat on the chiller out of the circuit and just use the STC as a relay pretty much right I shouldn't have to provide any additional power? That's the chiller already has its own power supply I just want to talk a little thermostat on and off. Am I on the right track?
Good and clear tutorial !
I have no problem wiring the brain and getting it to work, but I have tried 2 different cords now with the ports 7 and 8 to use my mini fridge in a similar way to you, and both times, with both cords, the circuit has not worked. Any suggestions?
I was looking for a video on how to set the thing can’t find one anywhere
Wouldn't it be better to wire the ITC so that it just bypasses the refrigerator thermostat ?
To hook up a 12 v fridge can you use the same steps?
yes same steps to switch 12 V - the controller doesnt care what it is switching
@@robfaris26 hey just wanted to share with you I took it up just like you did yours and it is doing what it was supposed to do. Thank you so much I don’t know why you don’t have your videos just did not get to the point and simplify. Thank you.
You still need to disconnect your fridge temperature sensor, don't you? I have a problem of trying to build a meat aging refrigerator and my fridge temp. sensor on/off window is way too wide, 7 degree, I think. I plugged the fridge into the Bayite BTC-201 and the BTC-201 into the wall outlet. The BTC-201 sensor inside the fridge and set the BTC to turn on at 38 and off at 36 (gave it a 2 degree window). But it didn't work, because even when the fridge turns on by the BTC, it still has to go through the fridge internal thermostat. So, the 7+ degree on/off window's still there (I set the fridge at max and this fridge can go all the way down to 32).
Daniel - I believe that in most applications there is no need to modify the fridge -- just set the fridge to its lowest setting and allow the external controller to turn the fridge on and off. The external controller uses hysteresis to avoid fridge cycling. Your particular application might be different.
robfaris26 I am building a beef aging refrigerator. So, a constant temperature is very important to me. I just figure out a simple way to bypass the fridge thermostat (electronic one), by just shorting the wire of the sensor together.
I have a device INK BIRD ITC 1000 220V, sorry I can not program it I need help, thank you very much
This didn't work with my cord. The cool dot is on, but it isn't completing the circuit.
Why do you cut the black? Why not the white? Does it matter?
I'm not an electrician, but my understanding is that black is "hot" and white is "return". The circuit breakers and switches in your house (and house appliances) all make/break "black" or "hot".
How would that work for a window unit
Okay what about the ground wire, I guess you don’t even have to connect the ground to the unit? Just connect the ground on all three units or just connect the ground to the outlet if your going to connect it like that
What if I just want to use the heating
Just connect the heating output and not the cooling output - the device can control either cooling, heating or both
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