Thank you! You are the only instruction that shows the parallel live wiring, including the manufacturers instructions! No wonder I could not get mine to work. Thanks again.
Thanks a million for the diagram. I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work but I hadn't linked the input power to heat terminal 5. Working perfectly now. 👌
Ignorance is bliss, so in my naivity I messed up and ensured my trip to heaven. Thanks to this clip, in the mean time, my fish remain at a stable 24,2 - 24,8 degrees C.
Decent video. Thanks for sharing. If I can suggest you don't bother with the background music though, it's a little irritating IMHO. Also, a couple of shots of the actual wired connections in each step would be useful as your hands block the view of what you're doing quite a lot so, make the connection then move your hands out of the way to show what you've done, rather than just cutting to the diagram. Thanks for doing this though. After a few watches I figured it out 👍
Thank you very much, I was about to smash 2 STC-1000 and 1 STC-3008, brand new.. But... 4 hrs going on, and the damn thing didn't wanna power on any of my heat/cold devices.. Thank you.
Good video help with wire and confirm I done it correctly I got a unit says 220volt but UK is 230-240v, I turn my unit on and then unit trip off then reset the replay and continues the cycle? Any suggestions
So just to clarify, with the ground you are literally using one of the chocolate block things and joining the ground wire of the stc1000 power supply, the heating ground and the cooling ground?
Hello, this wiring works well. I have mine installed and it’s working fine, however, the whole fridge switches off. Is there a way the light remains on when the temp cuts off supply to the compressor?
Personally I wired some 12v LEDs in to the normal fridge door on/off switch and ran these off a separate power supply to the fridge. When the STC is off, there's no power at all to the fridge, so you need a standalone supply for this purpose.
Hi, Thank you for your video, It was really helpful, I was just wondering, if we don't use any heating or cooling device, how do we do the grounding for the temperature controller? or do we just connect neutral and live from the power socket? and don't do grounding? Thank you!
Hi I have just bought kne of these on the back the wiring diagram says 1 and 8 and 2 and 7 connect am I missing something I'm using mine to convert freezer to fridge so do I follow your method leaving out the heating
YES, almost universally ~ the GREEN is GROUND... Always best to "bond" them well! But then again, in DC Circuits BLACK WAS negative until the STUPID people at Harbor Frt decided to make BLACK the "POSITIVE" color for AA and AAA Batteries! How dumb.
Could you connect a relay or contactor to it? I am not sure what load the STC can handle. If I need to use it to switch an element of say 3000watts on, then I suppose I would need a relay or something which can handle the amps.?
I wont risk connecting more than 1500 W. Why? if you are not afraid of fire, then you can connect what your soul wants. Although, you can buy another contactor and use STC 1000 as temperature metering unit. More over there is written 220 V and 10 A = 2200 VAC = 1800 W... Maybe 2000 W, depends what you connect.
Thank you! You are the only instruction that shows the parallel live wiring, including the manufacturers instructions! No wonder I could not get mine to work. Thanks again.
Thanks a million for the diagram. I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work but I hadn't linked the input power to heat terminal 5. Working perfectly now. 👌
Ignorance is bliss, so in my naivity I messed up and ensured my trip to heaven. Thanks to this clip, in the mean time, my fish remain at a stable 24,2 - 24,8 degrees C.
Thanks a lot, wiring wasn't intuitive at all. Your diagram saved me
Decent video. Thanks for sharing. If I can suggest you don't bother with the background music though, it's a little irritating IMHO. Also, a couple of shots of the actual wired connections in each step would be useful as your hands block the view of what you're doing quite a lot so, make the connection then move your hands out of the way to show what you've done, rather than just cutting to the diagram. Thanks for doing this though. After a few watches I figured it out 👍
Thank you very much, I was about to smash 2 STC-1000 and 1 STC-3008, brand new.. But... 4 hrs going on, and the damn thing didn't wanna power on any of my heat/cold devices..
Thank you.
No worries Lars, glad you got it sorted!
hello...I guess that the wiring you made is also valid for 24v or 12v...I mean positive negative wires...thanks
You are a star! Thank you for the easy to follow wiring instructions, really helped.
Does it not get hot that box? Looking at getting the 30a version for starting a couple of 2 hp fans, do you think it would be up to it?
Where can i get the 30a version? I’ve been looking for it and I only see the 10amp ones
@@naturalsIV thanks
Do they have a timer build in?
I'm looking for a 12vokt version with build on timer. 🤔
No timer that I'm aware of. There are guides to flashing the firmware which might achieve this. Otherwise buy an Inkbird. Pretty sure they do.
Good video help with wire and confirm I done it correctly I got a unit says 220volt but UK is 230-240v, I turn my unit on and then unit trip off then reset the replay and continues the cycle?
Any suggestions
Awesome, much clearer to me now how to set this up. Thank you!
Is the probe needed if box is inserted into unit?
Yeah. The unit can't sense temperature on its own. It needs a probe (although it can be shortened).
Is there any disadvantage by soldering wires together instead of using a terminal block?
Hi, we are trying to wire 1 of these up, but we have a brown/ blue, yellow/orange and 2 black wires (sensor) . How do we wire it up please?
So just to clarify, with the ground you are literally using one of the chocolate block things and joining the ground wire of the stc1000 power supply, the heating ground and the cooling ground?
And all the wires in ports 5,6,7 and 8 are all positive?
Hello, this wiring works well. I have mine installed and it’s working fine, however, the whole fridge switches off. Is there a way the light remains on when the temp cuts off supply to the compressor?
Personally I wired some 12v LEDs in to the normal fridge door on/off switch and ran these off a separate power supply to the fridge. When the STC is off, there's no power at all to the fridge, so you need a standalone supply for this purpose.
Good videos
Just an update for people I bought one of these this week and the menu has changed there is no F but it’s all in the box with the new menu
Thanks that helped
thank for your help
When are you going to do part two of the motorcycle clock please :)
Hi, Thank you for your video, It was really helpful, I was just wondering, if we don't use any heating or cooling device, how do we do the grounding for the temperature controller? or do we just connect neutral and live from the power socket? and don't do grounding?
Thank you!
Hi I have just bought kne of these on the back the wiring diagram says 1 and 8 and 2 and 7 connect am I missing something I'm using mine to convert freezer to fridge so do I follow your method leaving out the heating
@@naturalsIV thanks for reply I was just worried because the wiring diagram is different on the back
@@naturalsIVit's number on eBay UK 222009063678 plz check it out
I don't want to mess up lol
Very useful video👏
The one you test isn't the one you built in the video? clearly a different enclosure ?
Hi where can I buy an enclosure the same as yours?
Is that the dc 110-120v variant?
what gauge wire did you use sir?
Can I fit a 3 wire temp probe with this? If yes which wires to use from black, red & yellow?
NTC 10k ohm thermistor rather than the usual k-type thermocouple.
Do you reckon this would be safe on the end of an extension lead or risky?
@@naturalsIV cool. Thanks! :)
What is the maximum wattage this can control?
can that apply to stc 1000 good job for solar use😂
does the wiring diagram suit a 12v system and do you wire the same as I cannot find any wiring info for 12v
Go to GOOGLE and search for: "stc-1000 temperature controller wiring diagram" and select "IMAGES" below the search bar!
Thanks
Hi was the green the ground wire? And the brown wire was the positive that needed to be split? Thanks
YES, almost universally ~ the GREEN is GROUND... Always best to "bond" them well! But then again, in DC Circuits BLACK WAS negative until the STUPID people at Harbor Frt decided to make BLACK the "POSITIVE" color for AA and AAA Batteries! How dumb.
Could you connect a relay or contactor to it? I am not sure what load the STC can handle. If I need to use it to switch an element of say 3000watts on, then I suppose I would need a relay or something which can handle the amps.?
I wont risk connecting more than 1500 W. Why? if you are not afraid of fire, then you can connect what your soul wants. Although, you can buy another contactor and use STC 1000 as temperature metering unit. More over there is written 220 V and 10 A = 2200 VAC = 1800 W... Maybe 2000 W, depends what you connect.
Thanks for the reply. Will check Amazon
I looked at it again and looks like I need to power 1800watts. So will look into it or look for a different controller. Thank you for the advice
thanks!
Couldn’t quite hear the music. Can you turn your vocals down please?
Can I use this for an egg incubator.
Of course you can
Does anyone know how to get the controller out of efrost mode that I think mine is in? The lights are flashing all the time?
😊😊
Cheers
Thank you for your video. What if the heating source only has 2 wires? I can't find anything safer than a heating mat here and it only has two wires.
@@naturalsIV Thanks so much and once again great video.
good job!
I love you ...
how the hell do we open the box, nothing works,
Anyone make there own e nail?