Thea, boulder 2, the judges are insane to say she didn't have control of the top. If you are able to hold with 1 hand while slapping the hold with your second hand and your body doesn't move, you are in full control. Chloe was less in control than Thea was. Pure robbery
It's always been a rule that you have match for a few moments to show control. I agree its stupid but the rule has been there for years and it's her fault for not doing it.
It wasn't a control issue. She didn't do a proper 4 point start, she stepped into the first move. Judge should have stopped the attempt right at the beginning instead of letting her continue the route.
@@knokn @25:50 On boulder two she did have control when she started...what are you talking about? One hand in the pocket, one hand and two feet on the volume.
@@frenchchilla The 4 pieces of start-tape are all on the volume. She needs to be in a stable position with all four limbs touching the volume. The pocket isn't a start hold.
I know A lot of people don't like when they bring in a judge that doesn't know anything about bouldering, but it's really cool to hear them over the comp become really familiar and start to fall in love with climbing a little bit. It's a very very unique sport compared to everything else, and I find it fascinating to watch these people learn about it
I agree she was firmly holding the last hold, but patting the last hold not counting as a top ("in control") was a high profile rule change that happened about seven or eight years ago. At the time it was the cause of many unfortunate and high profile "failed tops" just like this one. There is no way a climber as good and accomplished as Thea did not know that she couldn't tap the last hold without first showing static "control." It is still unfortunate that she couldn't make it back up after though.
It wasn't a control issue. She didn't do a proper 4 point start, she stepped into the first move. Judge should have stopped the attempt right at the beginning instead of letting her continue the route.
@@knoknI thought that too but I looked closely and there is a green tape coming off the first pocket. She started correctly. So it really was the matter of her finishing not to their liking 😔
If Thea's discounted top was an appeal that teams Gould be absolutely ashamed of themselves. And if it was a nearly 10 minute late judges decision the judges need to be reprimanded. Embarrassing.
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The commentary was among the best I’ve heard at any level. Well done.
Is it me or the audio is out of sync? The reactions are late.
Thea, boulder 2, the judges are insane to say she didn't have control of the top. If you are able to hold with 1 hand while slapping the hold with your second hand and your body doesn't move, you are in full control. Chloe was less in control than Thea was. Pure robbery
even the judges clipboard was up
It's always been a rule that you have match for a few moments to show control. I agree its stupid but the rule has been there for years and it's her fault for not doing it.
It wasn't a control issue. She didn't do a proper 4 point start, she stepped into the first move. Judge should have stopped the attempt right at the beginning instead of letting her continue the route.
@@knokn @25:50 On boulder two she did have control when she started...what are you talking about? One hand in the pocket, one hand and two feet on the volume.
@@frenchchilla The 4 pieces of start-tape are all on the volume. She needs to be in a stable position with all four limbs touching the volume. The pocket isn't a start hold.
What are these commentators
I know A lot of people don't like when they bring in a judge that doesn't know anything about bouldering, but it's really cool to hear them over the comp become really familiar and start to fall in love with climbing a little bit. It's a very very unique sport compared to everything else, and I find it fascinating to watch these people learn about it
Damn Thea is climbing in Jyncos
1:11:27 increíble
Thea was robbed, I understand the rules, but come on, a little common sense as well ; she was clearly in control on that boulder ... anyway
I agree she was firmly holding the last hold, but patting the last hold not counting as a top ("in control") was a high profile rule change that happened about seven or eight years ago. At the time it was the cause of many unfortunate and high profile "failed tops" just like this one. There is no way a climber as good and accomplished as Thea did not know that she couldn't tap the last hold without first showing static "control." It is still unfortunate that she couldn't make it back up after though.
It wasn't a control issue. She didn't do a proper 4 point start, she stepped into the first move. Judge should have stopped the attempt right at the beginning instead of letting her continue the route.
@@knokn that makes alot more sense, thanks alot!
@@knoknI thought that too but I looked closely and there is a green tape coming off the first pocket. She started correctly. So it really was the matter of her finishing not to their liking 😔
1:11
If Thea's discounted top was an appeal that teams Gould be absolutely ashamed of themselves.
And if it was a nearly 10 minute late judges decision the judges need to be reprimanded.
Embarrassing.
who did AV sync in this vid? its awfull >.
You need some expert commentators. These guys aren’t up to it. Spoils the video
The guy doing on mat commentary was awful. He exclusively just cheered for the female competitors while paying no attention to the male participants.