Whoever runs this channel thanks a lot, usually these streams are buried with a bunch of garbage in the runtime or hard to search on UA-cam but here it’s always simple and clean. Really appreciate it!
She definitely couldn’t and wouldn’t be able to compete against the men. I don’t know what’s wrong with you kind of peoples’ thinking. These boulders are made easy because if for women. Don’t be fooled, men’s boulders are built completely harder
I’d love to see more. What a gracious performance and an amazing result. Once you started rolling in the second round top 3 felt like the exact surprised result I thought you’d obtain based on your intro. Watched the entire thing. Superb job Magnus!
i 'm not a climber but i really love these videos (and every sport in fact) but that move at 2:46:56 defies logic... Absolutely insane from a world class athlete!
Its amazing right XD? Boulders and holds are set in a way to push the athletes in certain directions. But to come up and do moves others can not, shows how great Adam Ondra is.
It's like doing a pistol squat while pushing really hard with your stretched leg, all whilst holding your body weight on some edges the size of 1 fingertip.
it's weird to suggest that these boulders are limit boulders for these athletes. If they were, than of course they would not be able to climb them consistently in 1-3 tries. w
yeah, some pro climbers say that they enjoy training more than competitions because they can actually push to their limits. this is something to remember with showcases of all skills, that the showcase is just a snapshot of someone's abilities on that day. All of these athletes can all probably complete all of these boulders a few hours; maybe it's even easier for them in training because of less pressure
Edit: never seen this sport b4. This is only my second day watching this sport. It's awesome to watch and appreciate the strength ( of just a toe muscle or a finger muscle) of these men and women. Side note: the strength and determination of these women just make them more beautiful in my eyes. ✌️😊
Cool comp. Usually watch the IFSC stuff and this was a nice change of pace. Still confused on the scoring change tho... what was the objection to the previous format?
The current IFSC scoring system for bouldering is obviously very flawed imho, having only two scoring points on each problem (Zone & Top) makes it impossible to capture all the progress the climbers make on a problem. Here they've added one more zone, allowing for more granular separation among climbers. Also incorporating the number of attempts directly into the score, making it easier to compare and understand. Not saying this format is perfect, but it's a good experiment to do.
As for scoring, I wish the graphics team would learn from games like golf that provide a score that is easily compared across different completed elements (holes vs boulders). One easy way would be to show the average total of completed boulders (with the completion count) and the current boulder's score if you're the active climber. For instance, here's one point in time in the women's competition where the graphic shows Janja Garnbret in 3rd place when she's really in 1st (and a couple other climbers change rank too): # Name Total Graph (each digit from 0-3 is the bar height count) 1 KRAMPL 80.9 3323 2 KAZBEKOVA 80.6 3323 3 GARNBRET 75.0 333 4 CAULIER 58.9 3321 (active on boulder 4) 5 MEUL 56.0 332 6 PILZ 55.9 332 7 MORONI 39.3 3221 8 ADAMOVSKA 36.7 322 My suggested graphic would be (perhaps with the total or the graph bars added on): # Name Avg * #Done + Active Score 1 GARNBRET 25.00 * 3 2 KRAMPL 20.23 * 4 3 KAZBEKOVA 20.15 * 4 4 MEUL 18.67 * 3 5 CAULIER 18.63 * 3 + 3.0 6 PILZ 18.63 * 3 7 ADAMOVSKA 12.23 * 3 8 MORONI 9.82 * 4
That's like saying that the person starting on hole 1 of a golf course is 63 shots ahead in the points standing compared to someone finishing hole 18. It is a false view of the actual standings. Garnbret had 3 perfect boulders, and nobody else was even close to her in their performance. The entire point is that total points is a very poor measure of where someone is in the standings if you're comparing those who have completed differing amounts of the competition.
All I can say about this is we got a LOT of fantastic lady sports vids to watch in the future. Damn these girls are GREAT! Throw in the World Cup of Internation Football (Soccer in my world) and wow do we have a lot to look forward to. Thank you Bouldering TV for uploading this. I'm not a fan of watching "two climbers sending at the same time" but... I'll take what I'm given.
Climbers sometimes purposefully put chalk on their shorts before climbing to get some chalk on their hands without a chalk bag. Sometimes they do it just to wipe off sweat too.
@@jackshi ya that’s not what’s going on clearly. They put the chalk on the front of their qauds or on the side of them. You can see she has her hand in the shape of grabbing for chalk behind her
The directing is awefull at times. No we don't need a close up the first time a boulder is tried, no we don't need to see the coach while a guy comes to the critical part. Just stick to the main camera and show slowmo and stuff when they are not climbing..
Are they short on money or why do they make multiple people climb at the same time? Wtf is the point of that? Am I supposed to watch each with one eye or something?
It's only the attempts it took them to get to whatever score they end up with. So if they top it's -.1 for all unsuccessful attempts but if they only get to one of the zones it's -.1 for the number of attempts it took them to get that zone.
@@StuermischeTage No, check out en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adam_Ondra#Climbing_European_Championships, it says he came third in bouldering, there's no combination.
@@samhitchcock3560 the wiki page here for whatever reason doesn't show the combination finals. here you can see, it was lead, boulder and combined: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2022_IFSC_Climbing_European_Championships
@@enha6008 Thank you for the link, but it only supports my confusion. This video is about bouldering finals. At 2:47:04 you see the final standings -- Ondra on top. On the wiki page you sent, it ranks Ondra third in "Men's boulder" category. There is a separate entry for "Men's combined" where he is ranked second, so the "Men's boulder" entry clearly refers to bouldering alone. But according to the standings at 2:47:04 he should have been first in this category.
I expect that there wasn't a dedicated bouldering event for the combination besides the "pure" bouldering finals, no? Wouldn't make sense to me if there was, why should they have to boulder twice..
Do climbers still lose points for an attempt even if they don't reach the next zone/top eventually ? Let's say they flash up to the first zone, then do 5 attemps but never reach the second zone, will they lose 0.5 point ?
If it's like the Japanese scoring style then no, they only count the attempts it takes them to get to their final score. So if it takes them 3 attempts to get to the 6pt and then they try for the top another 8 times but fail only the 3 attempts will be deducted, because it only took them that many attempts to get to the score they did.
Matt is making excuses for poor routesetting. The setters made the problems too easy. No excuse for 1 fall out of the first 9 attempts. It should be even easier to get separation with this format than the world cup where the only scores are zone and top.
Whoever runs this channel thanks a lot, usually these streams are buried with a bunch of garbage in the runtime or hard to search on UA-cam but here it’s always simple and clean. Really appreciate it!
Janja is just insane, makes everything look easy
It's absolutely amazing how these 8 boulders are way way way better than the ones at the Olympics !
olympics were shit, the boulders and the overal competition format
@@dnch maybe its cuz the olympics host teenage athletes. you dolts.
@@dnch yeah wasn't that sun shaped "boulder" that was impossible for everyone at the olympics? also scoring made no sense, of course
1:07:33 Oh come on, what on earth is up with this woman, how can someone be this strong and make it look this easy....
I literally laughed out loud... just ridiculous
Imagine being Hannah and watching her come back so fast, id lose it
W3 really showed how much stronger she is than all of the other competitors. That wasn’t even close.
janja is from another planet, she could easily compete in the men's section.
She definitely couldn’t and wouldn’t be able to compete against the men. I don’t know what’s wrong with you kind of peoples’ thinking. These boulders are made easy because if for women. Don’t be fooled, men’s boulders are built completely harder
Adam switching his hands dynamically on that 2nd zone of the last boulder was amazing. He cruised that one
Even the audience made a sound that was just like "Oh now come on, you can't do that"
Janja is above all other female boulders! Elegant and technical!
Haven't seen a competition since IFSC made the stupid deal. Thx for airing this
What deal did the IFSC make? Is it an exclusive broadcasting rights or smth?
@@FamilyRoyalty yes, even though I'm funding through my license, shameful
I’d love to see more. What a gracious performance and an amazing result. Once you started rolling in the second round top 3 felt like the exact surprised result I thought you’d obtain based on your intro. Watched the entire thing. Superb job Magnus!
i 'm not a climber but i really love these videos (and every sport in fact) but that move at 2:46:56 defies logic... Absolutely insane from a world class athlete!
You should try it yourself, climbers are the frendliest people i ever met.
Its amazing right XD? Boulders and holds are set in a way to push the athletes in certain directions. But to come up and do moves others can not, shows how great Adam Ondra is.
It's like doing a pistol squat while pushing really hard with your stretched leg, all whilst holding your body weight on some edges the size of 1 fingertip.
such a great comp and well put together video. Also, I love this points system!
Proud of our French climbers ! Great job Avezou and Schalk !
Awesome comp and edited version- thanks
Must be really depressing if youre a competing athlet and see Janja come back from the boulder after 10 seconds every time. :D
Great competition. The Queen and the King won
Ok. It's almost disrespectful how fast Ondra flashed those last two.
He’s actually insane 🤣
Video shooting is very good, bloggers are creative
I really hope Janja's back is okay.
😢❤
@@Сидор_Прокопыч meh 🫤 she can get over it
Janja is gorgeous ❤❤❤
it's weird to suggest that these boulders are limit boulders for these athletes. If they were, than of course they would not be able to climb them consistently in 1-3 tries.
w
yeah, some pro climbers say that they enjoy training more than competitions because they can actually push to their limits. this is something to remember with showcases of all skills, that the showcase is just a snapshot of someone's abilities on that day. All of these athletes can all probably complete all of these boulders a few hours; maybe it's even easier for them in training because of less pressure
Бельгиская спортсменка - настоящий мужчина!
Edit: never seen this sport b4.
This is only my second day watching this sport. It's awesome to watch and appreciate the strength ( of just a toe muscle or a finger muscle) of these men and women.
Side note: the strength and determination of these women just make them more beautiful in my eyes. ✌️😊
I am a big fan of Janja, Ai Mori and Brooke Raboutou.
-we can split the screen
- damn yeah, we'll do 3 !!!
Cool comp. Usually watch the IFSC stuff and this was a nice change of pace. Still confused on the scoring change tho... what was the objection to the previous format?
The current IFSC scoring system for bouldering is obviously very flawed imho, having only two scoring points on each problem (Zone & Top) makes it impossible to capture all the progress the climbers make on a problem. Here they've added one more zone, allowing for more granular separation among climbers. Also incorporating the number of attempts directly into the score, making it easier to compare and understand. Not saying this format is perfect, but it's a good experiment to do.
I believe it's also the next Olympic format
@@mikemoore-hehim1149 this is indeed the Paris 2024 format
USA climbing has been using the full-expression of this scoring system for many years now ua-cam.com/video/JYMjq4_Odkc/v-deo.html
I kinda like this format. Second zone is great for separation, and the decimal system seems simple enough
💪🙏👍🙂❤🇺🇦
Доброго вечора !
Stop having 2 athletes compete at the same time!
if running two boulders at the same time, doesn't it give unfair advantage to the climber watching another competitor climbing the next boulder?
Damn, the first top of nr 2 was AMAZING
As for scoring, I wish the graphics team would learn from games like golf that provide a score that is easily compared across different completed elements (holes vs boulders). One easy way would be to show the average total of completed boulders (with the completion count) and the current boulder's score if you're the active climber. For instance, here's one point in time in the women's competition where the graphic shows Janja Garnbret in 3rd place when she's really in 1st (and a couple other climbers change rank too):
# Name Total Graph (each digit from 0-3 is the bar height count)
1 KRAMPL 80.9 3323
2 KAZBEKOVA 80.6 3323
3 GARNBRET 75.0 333
4 CAULIER 58.9 3321 (active on boulder 4)
5 MEUL 56.0 332
6 PILZ 55.9 332
7 MORONI 39.3 3221
8 ADAMOVSKA 36.7 322
My suggested graphic would be (perhaps with the total or the graph bars added on):
# Name Avg * #Done + Active Score
1 GARNBRET 25.00 * 3
2 KRAMPL 20.23 * 4
3 KAZBEKOVA 20.15 * 4
4 MEUL 18.67 * 3
5 CAULIER 18.63 * 3 + 3.0
6 PILZ 18.63 * 3
7 ADAMOVSKA 12.23 * 3
8 MORONI 9.82 * 4
She was 3rd in ranking pointwise at that specific moment lol.
That's like saying that the person starting on hole 1 of a golf course is 63 shots ahead in the points standing compared to someone finishing hole 18. It is a false view of the actual standings. Garnbret had 3 perfect boulders, and nobody else was even close to her in their performance. The entire point is that total points is a very poor measure of where someone is in the standings if you're comparing those who have completed differing amounts of the competition.
All I can say about this is we got a LOT of fantastic lady sports vids to watch in the future. Damn these girls are GREAT!
Throw in the World Cup of Internation Football (Soccer in my world) and wow do we have a lot to look forward to.
Thank you Bouldering TV for uploading this. I'm not a fan of watching "two climbers sending at the same time" but... I'll take what I'm given.
Has janja ever failed a boulder
her tops % is 90, for reference most top climbers are in the 50-70% range
Why do the commentators keep saying how easy it is? Really off-putting when we all know the commentators wouldn't be able to manage the route
1:04:52 Hannah Meul busted off a cool figure 4!
Why the irritating music? Is that part of the championship? Or do you mix that in later?
Anyone else notice the imaginary of chalking at 26:30😂
Climbers sometimes purposefully put chalk on their shorts before climbing to get some chalk on their hands without a chalk bag. Sometimes they do it just to wipe off sweat too.
@@jackshi ya that’s not what’s going on clearly. They put the chalk on the front of their qauds or on the side of them. You can see she has her hand in the shape of grabbing for chalk behind her
Only thing janja didn't practice id how to manage a fall or impact of the fall. Girl isn't falling enough during practice.. legend
The directing is awefull at times. No we don't need a close up the first time a boulder is tried, no we don't need to see the coach while a guy comes to the critical part. Just stick to the main camera and show slowmo and stuff when they are not climbing..
That's a problem with a lot of sports broadcasting in general.
At 1:34:31 would they have awarded 2nd zone if he used it to touch the next one?
Ps: Thanks for the upload (:
i don't know whats going on but am hooked their all pretty 😳
💛💙
Are they short on money or why do they make multiple people climb at the same time?
Wtf is the point of that? Am I supposed to watch each with one eye or something?
So are the point deductions just a flat .1 per attempt?
It's only the attempts it took them to get to whatever score they end up with. So if they top it's -.1 for all unsuccessful attempts but if they only get to one of the zones it's -.1 for the number of attempts it took them to get that zone.
W3 могла покорить только Garnbret. Powerfull technical plastical women
Can you hire climbers to film? The close-up replay style is silly! Zoom out so we can see all appendages, and then some, please.
Wait. This is bouldering FINALS, no? So why did Ondra not win it? He was third according to IFSC (and wikipedia) results...
It's bouldering and lead combined. Both events provide a maximum of 100 points. Whoever gets the most points across both events wins.
@@StuermischeTage No, check out en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adam_Ondra#Climbing_European_Championships, it says he came third in bouldering, there's no combination.
@@samhitchcock3560 the wiki page here for whatever reason doesn't show the combination finals. here you can see, it was lead, boulder and combined: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2022_IFSC_Climbing_European_Championships
@@enha6008 Thank you for the link, but it only supports my confusion. This video is about bouldering finals. At 2:47:04 you see the final standings -- Ondra on top. On the wiki page you sent, it ranks Ondra third in "Men's boulder" category. There is a separate entry for "Men's combined" where he is ranked second, so the "Men's boulder" entry clearly refers to bouldering alone. But according to the standings at 2:47:04 he should have been first in this category.
I expect that there wasn't a dedicated bouldering event for the combination besides the "pure" bouldering finals, no? Wouldn't make sense to me if there was, why should they have to boulder twice..
what happens with both have 80.5 points????? Please if anyone has the answe4r
Beautiful women everyone truly a fun sport to watch and to watch WOMEN ROCK
😍💪💪👍
caulier climing in the lucky boxers of her boyfriend
Do climbers still lose points for an attempt even if they don't reach the next zone/top eventually ?
Let's say they flash up to the first zone, then do 5 attemps but never reach the second zone, will they lose 0.5 point ?
yes because they did not finish it
If it's like the Japanese scoring style then no, they only count the attempts it takes them to get to their final score. So if it takes them 3 attempts to get to the 6pt and then they try for the top another 8 times but fail only the 3 attempts will be deducted, because it only took them that many attempts to get to the score they did.
why is it split screen?
They are using this event as a test event for potential Olympic formats. Think it might have been an issue with time as the lead climb was afterward.
Matt is making excuses for poor routesetting. The setters made the problems too easy. No excuse for 1 fall out of the first 9 attempts. It should be even easier to get separation with this format than the world cup where the only scores are zone and top.
Except for Janja, the rest of the players need to increase their arm strength.
That’s like telling a swimmer they need to go faster. These are some of the strongest women in the world
Mia krampl is very good
wow they're pretty
I woke up here and then watched it (I was watchin kerbal space program vids)
Such attracting women
💥💥HANNAH MEUL on Top ▶ ua-cam.com/video/8f1PmI4yiXo/v-deo.html 👀👀
Janja is such a babe 😘
belgium not doing so good
lol
split screen bad for eyes
guys dont panic, the hotties are climbing
please title it female bouldering finals thank u
Why….it’s women and mens….women were just shown first