One of my uncles is a antique furniture restorer in Brazil and he works with Ipe quite a lot, From what I have personally seen Ipe is some really impressive stuff.
I used this stuff to make a 54" x 60" x 4qtr Ipe slab that I installed outdoors under an exterior doorway. After six years where there was movement only the wood fibre failed. The III is water proof and the II is water resistant. I've also made 6" thick Angelique wood beams out of 8qtr stock. This stuff holds great.
Great video I was looking for a glue for my snooker cue project using ebony & rosewood, and these glues where in my short list seeing the results I will be using Titebond 3, many thanks 👍
@@1958dbc excellent glue, I did prep the faces of the ebony to ensure good adhesion, I made my snooker cue and I’ve had some decent breaks with it, kind regards mike
I work with violin family instruments. The traditional wood used to make the bow has been recently banned for export by the country of Brazil, where most of it is grown. Ipe is considered the most likely wood to replace pernambuco for the making of bows. Since I’ll eventually will need to repair them, I’m interested in what glues stick to this wood. I’ll also need to test if CA glue sticks to it well, I often use this fir bow repairs.
I hand-carved a carving ax handle out of Ipe and it is tough stuff. A lot of extra sharpening of my spokeshaves, chisels, and card scraper, but the result was well worth it. Going to make a cutting board next.
@@garrettjones1699 It actually turned out great, except for the booger on one side due to operator error with the chisel. Oh well. The balance is super and using its own weight against it makes carving much easier. Good luck.
Someone on an archery forum recommended to degrease Ipe with soap and water instead of acetone. He wrote that the harsh treatment with acetone would cause the oil in the wood to flow back to the surface.
Good feedback! I honestly couldn't tell a difference anyway, the oil on this Ipe I have didn't seem to affect the glue strength at all. I suspect the issue may be over hyped.
Ipe trees are stunning in full bloom. They were my favorite trees when I was staying in Brazil. Too bad they grow too slowly to be commercially viable for plantation culture around the world like eucalyptus and acacia, since the wood is so freakishly durable.
Titebond 3 has been my favorite for over 10 years. I use it on all my wood projects. One of my cutting boards is over 10 years old and has never broken. We use it every night. Great video!!
You're a very interesting person, most people, and manufacturors shy away from making speaker boxes out of Real Hardwood because of swelling and contracting during cliamate and humidity changes. If there's a will, there's a way. I've heard this ipe wood and ironwood doesn't shrink or expand because of their high density.
Nice video Thank You! I am making a ipe guitar body Looking at info for gluing the boards together before I shape the body Need something strong! Thanks in advance for your help Edit Looks like t bond 3 Since I will be using 1x6 glued, stacked Then doweled and gluing together then shaping Ty
Unfortunately today I got a bottle of tb3 glued up a bunch of wood. Took the clamps off and could pull the wood apart with little effort. I have used tb3 dir many years with great success. I believe that this bottle had been stored in an area that was subjected to freezing temperatures. We have not had those temps all week. Glue residue turned white not normal for this glue. Have you had any problems like this?
Wow Michael I have not! TB3 is one of the better wood glues I've ever used, but in CA we never get freezing temps (certainly no indoors or in the garage), so yes I suspect that could be your issue. I'd suggest getting some new glue and doing a test before proceeding. Keep me posted!
When a glue "Chalks" (turns white) it is a definite sign that the glue and ambient temperatures are too cold. I received this information from TB, and a bad experience.
You should have used the same size wood on the TB2 to give it a better chance, I like it better than 3 because it’s really strong but also more pliable, like rubber, after it dries. And prettier. TB3 is like a rock, strong as hell but hard and ugly when it dries.
I've had serious failure with Gorrilla Glue on a maple bow I made--total delamination. I've heard that other polyurethane glues are excellent. I can't speak for Titebond polyurethane glue. I like the other Titebond glues. I have many years of experience with WEST epoxy in boat building contexts. It is great glue, but does not glue Ipe at all.
Personally I think folks having trouble are either using the wrong glue, not using enough glue in the joints or using Ipe that hasn’t dried enough. I have no problems glueing this stuff.
Don't use TB3 for speakers, musical instrument production or for anything that will be subject to lots of vibration. TB3 dries semi elastic, it doesn't dry hard like TB1. It's designed this way for making boats and glueing waterproof things that require a little movement in the structure. If used for speakers or building guitars, the woods can creep (ask me how I know). Even after only a week or two the surfaces can creep and not line up. Also, the elastic properties of TB3 act as a dampener for vibration transmission between surfaces. You should watch a video by Beau Hannam guitars where he demonstrates these properties in a practical test with TB3 Vs TB1 and you'll see straight away why TB1 is the right glue for the job.
MSK Guitars, thanks for the comment! I'd like to respond by saying keep in mind a speaker is not an instrument, instruments do resonate and the body of the instrument does create sound, I can completely agree how your comments would apply to an instrument. A speaker cabinet, however, is not an instrument, the drivers themselves are the only part of the speaker enclosure that should resonate or create sound. The cabinet we want to be completely silent and non-resonant, and in that light TB3 does work very well for speaker building, I've used it extensively. All woods and glues do creep a little and I haven't noticed any excessive amount compared to TB2 which is what I use as my staple. I actually don't use TB1 as I really like TB2. Thanks for the conversation!
Wash the 2 parts you want to glue with muriatic acide (let the acid eat the wood for a bit before washing off) Wash it very well then rewash it to make sure To the touch it should feel rough Then you can glue the 2 parts together Ps i make a putter out or walnut and a IPE core Now working on the full IPE driver 👌👍
When you see almost 100% wood failure, that is actually an industry test result. I knew the guy who invented the resorcinol glue that is the standard glue used in all US exterior grade plywood. It is marvelous stuff for gluing wood. He was required to test it using an industry tester. He glued together two pieces with grain running 90 degrees one to the other, and then tried to split along the glue line using a spec metal dull knife. Then they measure the amount of wood failure vs glue line failure. Your test is just fine, although using cross grain would be better.
Great news! You have been nominated for a Nobel Prize for this glue up!
One of my uncles is a antique furniture restorer in Brazil and he works with Ipe quite a lot, From what I have personally seen Ipe is some really impressive stuff.
Really cool wood, so dense and hard!
@@javadshadzi4824 that's what she said? Lol
I used this stuff to make a 54" x 60" x 4qtr Ipe slab that I installed outdoors under an exterior doorway. After six years where there was movement only the wood fibre failed. The III is water proof and the II is water resistant. I've also made 6" thick Angelique wood beams out of 8qtr stock. This stuff holds great.
Have you tried glueing the end grain? I need to make returns to wrap around a post and I was going to miter the corners.
Great video I was looking for a glue for my snooker cue project using ebony & rosewood, and these glues where in my short list seeing the results I will be using Titebond 3, many thanks 👍
Awesome! Glad I could be of assistance
well how did the ebony glueing workout.. I have a 1.5 square here right now i want to incorporate in a bow riser
@@1958dbc excellent glue, I did prep the faces of the ebony to ensure good adhesion, I made my snooker cue and I’ve had some decent breaks with it, kind regards mike
Beautiful wood,I use it on my boat for exposed backing,trim and steps,,makes beautiful lattis
I work with violin family instruments. The traditional wood used to make the bow has been recently banned for export by the country of Brazil, where most of it is grown. Ipe is considered the most likely wood to replace pernambuco for the making of bows. Since I’ll eventually will need to repair them, I’m interested in what glues stick to this wood. I’ll also need to test if CA glue sticks to it well, I often use this fir bow repairs.
I hand-carved a carving ax handle out of Ipe and it is tough stuff. A lot of extra sharpening of my spokeshaves, chisels, and card scraper, but the result was well worth it. Going to make a cutting board next.
How did it turn out? I'm making a Jatoba, tigerwood and Cumaru cutting board soon. I've heard its pretty similar to Ipe
@@garrettjones1699 It actually turned out great, except for the booger on one side due to operator error with the chisel. Oh well. The balance is super and using its own weight against it makes carving much easier. Good luck.
@@rosshollinger8097 Awesome. I love the heaviness of those brazilian woods its amazing
RIP knives
Someone on an archery forum recommended to degrease Ipe with soap and water instead of acetone. He wrote that the harsh treatment with acetone would cause the oil in the wood to flow back to the surface.
Good feedback! I honestly couldn't tell a difference anyway, the oil on this Ipe I have didn't seem to affect the glue strength at all. I suspect the issue may be over hyped.
Ipe trees are stunning in full bloom. They were my favorite trees when I was staying in Brazil. Too bad they grow too slowly to be commercially viable for plantation culture around the world like eucalyptus and acacia, since the wood is so freakishly durable.
Titebond 3 has been my favorite for over 10 years. I use it on all my wood projects. One of my cutting boards is over 10 years old and has never broken. We use it every night. Great video!!
You're a very interesting person, most people, and manufacturors shy away from making speaker boxes out of Real Hardwood because of swelling and contracting during cliamate and humidity changes. If there's a will, there's a way. I've heard this ipe wood and ironwood doesn't shrink or expand because of their high density.
Nice video Thank You!
I am making a ipe guitar body
Looking at info for gluing the boards together before I shape the body
Need something strong!
Thanks in advance for your help
Edit
Looks like t bond 3
Since I will be using 1x6 glued, stacked
Then doweled and gluing together then shaping
Ty
Thanks for sharing your test bro!
Nick Porter you got it!
Unfortunately today I got a bottle of tb3 glued up a bunch of wood. Took the clamps off and could pull the wood apart with little effort. I have used tb3 dir many years with great success. I believe that this bottle had been stored in an area that was subjected to freezing temperatures. We have not had those temps all week. Glue residue turned white not normal for this glue. Have you had any problems like this?
Wow Michael I have not! TB3 is one of the better wood glues I've ever used, but in CA we never get freezing temps (certainly no indoors or in the garage), so yes I suspect that could be your issue. I'd suggest getting some new glue and doing a test before proceeding. Keep me posted!
Use when temperature, glue and materials are above 45°F.
When a glue "Chalks" (turns white) it is a definite sign that the glue and ambient temperatures are too cold. I received this information from TB, and a bad experience.
Heiiow! master!
Ipe or Iroko, Lenke for Djembe wood?
Thank you!
You should have used the same size wood on the TB2 to give it a better chance, I like it better than 3 because it’s really strong but also more pliable, like rubber, after it dries. And prettier. TB3 is like a rock, strong as hell but hard and ugly when it dries.
I've had serious failure with Gorrilla Glue on a maple bow I made--total delamination. I've heard that other polyurethane glues are excellent. I can't speak for Titebond polyurethane glue. I like the other Titebond glues. I have many years of experience with WEST epoxy in boat building contexts. It is great glue, but does not glue Ipe at all.
Personally I think folks having trouble are either using the wrong glue, not using enough glue in the joints or using Ipe that hasn’t dried enough. I have no problems glueing this stuff.
Fun fact, ipe has the same fire resistance rating as steel.
Don't use TB3 for speakers, musical instrument production or for anything that will be subject to lots of vibration. TB3 dries semi elastic, it doesn't dry hard like TB1. It's designed this way for making boats and glueing waterproof things that require a little movement in the structure. If used for speakers or building guitars, the woods can creep (ask me how I know). Even after only a week or two the surfaces can creep and not line up. Also, the elastic properties of TB3 act as a dampener for vibration transmission between surfaces. You should watch a video by Beau Hannam guitars where he demonstrates these properties in a practical test with TB3 Vs TB1 and you'll see straight away why TB1 is the right glue for the job.
MSK Guitars, thanks for the comment! I'd like to respond by saying keep in mind a speaker is not an instrument, instruments do resonate and the body of the instrument does create sound, I can completely agree how your comments would apply to an instrument. A speaker cabinet, however, is not an instrument, the drivers themselves are the only part of the speaker enclosure that should resonate or create sound. The cabinet we want to be completely silent and non-resonant, and in that light TB3 does work very well for speaker building, I've used it extensively. All woods and glues do creep a little and I haven't noticed any excessive amount compared to TB2 which is what I use as my staple. I actually don't use TB1 as I really like TB2. Thanks for the conversation!
Wash the 2 parts you want to glue with muriatic acide (let the acid eat the wood for a bit before washing off)
Wash it very well then rewash it to make sure
To the touch it should feel rough
Then you can glue the 2 parts together
Ps
i make a putter out or walnut and a IPE core
Now working on the full IPE driver 👌👍
Tite bond lll is not water proof its not to be into water it says it on the direction folder that come with it do not immerse in water
They list the glue as waterproof:
titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af
@@javadshadzi4824 read the leaflet that come with the glue IT SAYS NOT to be in water its only water resistance for out door use read it
@@javadshadzi4824 do not immerse in water
@@ronaldrice4085 they call it “waterproof glue”. What they say is it’s not to be submerged for long periods. They call TB2 “water resistant”.
Too late now
Michael Edlin 😥
No measurements, no test.
Joe Care it elaborate? Clearly this wasn’t a scientific test as I mention, what would measure?
Hater!
When you see almost 100% wood failure, that is actually an industry test result. I knew the guy who invented the resorcinol glue that is the standard glue used in all US exterior grade plywood. It is marvelous stuff for gluing wood. He was required to test it using an industry tester. He glued together two pieces with grain running 90 degrees one to the other, and then tried to split along the glue line using a spec metal dull knife. Then they measure the amount of wood failure vs glue line failure. Your test is just fine, although using cross grain would be better.