Your First Engine Job - Pulling The Head And Assessing The Damage
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- Опубліковано 15 січ 2023
- Our 4.0 has definitely seen better days! This time around we find stretched head bolts, sunk and burned exhaust valves, evidence of severe warpage and our first look at the cylinder walls and one of them is showing signs of real piston trauma.
#classiccar #engines #autorepair #musclecar
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2 suggestions......
1:more videos like these .... I like the investigative process finding what is bad and good
2: get a small LED light when filming.... a small light would have lit that #1 cylinder so we could see the condition . just FYI. :)
When I rebuilt my ford 300 inline 6 engine, I tried to get a remanned head but they were and are still unavailable. Mine was cracked so I had to go buy one from a salvage yard and get it machined. When it was all said and done it was actually cheaper or about the same as a remanned head. So, while yes a remanned head will save you time and maybe some money, the availability is something to take into consideration.
That motor was ran into the ground.
Then it looks like all sorts of rebuild kit in a can gunk was fed into it and ran into the ground some more
The bolt stretch is 100% correct, this happens when the bolt's yield (and likely ultimate tensile) strength is exceeded and it begins to neck. It will lengthen at the expense of diameter and that relationship is described by Poisson's ratio.
My materials class finally coming in handy :D
In Australia a 6 cylinder Ford 4.1 liter was only $500 to $1000 most of them were new heads, all the best to yous and your loved ones
The "blocked water passages" that you pointed out are not water passages. They are sand casting drain holes. They are only there for sand removal after the casting process. As you can see, the head gasket does not have through holes for those "blocked water passages". The only water passages that are active on this engine are the two in the very rear, the one circular hole in the very front and the small 6 holes on the cam side for each combustion chamber.
Yes..I realized that after we shot this and Kathy had finished the editing. I'll mention it in the next installment.
@@UncleTonysGarage man tony, where would this channel be with out dead eye master techs from the land of comments? Love what you do man, I've learned A lot from you, and you lead me onto David V and now I'm checking out his new channel. I'm glad he makes videos about the book I got, because honestly he takes a bit to get to the point and I'm more visual than a reader. Lastly, I love xjs and the 4.0. and Chevy inline 6s, and the big ford, I don't think anyone made a bad inline engine. Thanks again!
4:23 I would lean more towards PCV dumping into the front half of the intake.
I was thinking the same thing.
or EGR
definitely, They are known for being oily mess inside the intake. I put a filter on the pvc line to try and slow it down
@@sometimesleela5947 no I would not go that way the exhaust has already burned the oil and it would be a sooty deposit.
Interesting comments there is NO PVC Valve on that motor What EGR
my thoughts are a Poorly Done in frame Overhaul with a lot of miles
That gas trick is smart, im so used to sending heads out at the shop I work at. This is great for DIYer's
I've got a 1968 jaguar 3.8 that's locked up. It's been soaking for months and I've finally resigned myself to having to open it up. Looks like I'll be watching this series of UTG on repeat over the upcoming winter. (Southern Hemisphere)
Looking forward to it if I'm honest
What's in the inlet port is also EGR and PCV residue.
Thanks UTG - I liked the gas in the combustion chamber testing for valve leaks
Tony wasn’t smoking this time while pouring the gas .
I agree just order a reman head. Be way ahead in time and money. But I understand you're using this as a teaching part.
For anyone wondering why reman is cheaper, think about this. Reman people are highly specialized. I toured the Certified Transmission plant. The rebuilder there rebuilds maybe two or three transmission models. That's it. Those people become really good and really efficient at doing those things.
@@kart70 also the economy of scale.
PLEASE add something in the description or title that indicates which number in the series these videos are. I'm thinking about those that may stumble on to this invaluable series years from now, and the importance of easily identifying which video is next.
Excellent channel! I've rebuilt one engine so far, an International Harvester 345 V8. My daily driver is a '98 Jeep XJ with a 4.0 so I'm especially interested in this series.
best down to earth explanation of bolt stretch i have ever seen...nice...
soaking in all the practical knowledge you share, thank you.
According to the FSM on 4.0’s if you reuse head bolts they should be marked. Marked head bolts should be discarded and replaced when removed.
Since 4.0s are subject to overheating I suspect that head has been off a time or two and the bolts weren’t replaced.
Tony, In a future video, could you pull those burned valves and compare them to good valves? Because I couldn't tell what the difference was. Thanks.
The clue is they are slightly off circular- as soon as you see that, you know when you take them out they will be worse.
Flip the head over and add a liquid to the chamber. See if the level drops. That will show you sealing. But, take them out and look at them.
HA, I didn't watch the video before posting this🙃
What don't you get he told you which valves are f***** up without having eyes in the combustion chamber Superman with x-ray vision couldn't have done a better job at diagnosing this problem but we're human we're not Superman we don't have X-ray vision diagnosing the problem is a five-step process Step One machines f***** up Step2 what part is it out of the Thousand Parts it could be and isn't is it. Step 3 is research if you don't have experience ask somebody step four is getting the correct Parts on hand in the proper Machining the correct the problem step five reassembly is opposite of disassembly so pay attention and take notes throughout the process and a lot of times you can't even see a sunken valve when you lay eyes on it 3 1 thousandths of an inch is the threshold where the human eye stops seeing is the width of your eyelash a little bit less than a human hair not trying to be a dick just want to help you expand your mind and knowledge peace
@@kevinpatton3950 I don't have the resolution to see it on my screen. Maybe he can't either
The valve literally starts to burn from getting too hot.
It can vary from being slightly out of round, to looking like someone gouged it with a torch.
good job uncle tony sir.!.
This series is invaluable…love it UTG…I always wanted to learn about this process. And see something complete from start to finish…
When checking the seal of the valves I like to put the gas in the runners not the chambers. The test is the same. But I think it's just a bit easier to watch the valves weep.
That's what I do also it's extremely easy to see when there all carboned up
If it had overheated, the valve seals are now toast anyway
Valve seals are not in the runners. But yes I'd pop off the valve spring and replace the seals. Even test the spring rate.
I have not had good experiences with reman 4 liter heads. I had one refreshed at a machine shop for less than 300 bucks. Cleaning, valve job, springs, seals. Ready to paint and install, and I knew what I was getting. Why would anybody bother with a gamble on a reman.
we need to get these videos numbered i cant tell which one i see next lol
Great advice on getting a reman head if the teardown sees trouble. I once had a Chevy Cavalier that needed valves ground. Due to cracks between the spark plug and exhaust valve (those engines were known for them) It took 3 heads to get one that was good enough for the machine shop to rebuild...by which time I had almost exactly the cost of a reman head in it.
Thank you Uncle Tony for this, I have a 99 XJ myself and Im planning on keeping her as long as I can and I know there will come a time that this may happen.
Thanks Tony but you need a flashlight when you're trying to show us something; keep on smiling.
The #1 cylinder is the one that overheats on these engines. On a totally unrelated note I have some good stock valves and pistons from a no longer complete engine I could probably ship your way.
TY Tony for the shop class . love this stuff.
I would say the oil in the intake passage came from the PCV valve. Those 4.0L came in all the time and the air filter would be soaked with oil from the breather.. idk if it was just excessive blow by, bad PCV valve or just a poor PCV system design in general on those jeeps but with some miles on them it was impossible to keep them from soaking the air filter and the breather filter in the air box.
Lot's of water. 👏 I think new head bolt's is a really good investment. That just My opinion. 😎👌
Sweet getting it done, brother.
WHen I was wrenching on racing 2 stroke motorcycles, we used to turn down the plain part of the cylinder bolts - the the threads were a bigger diameter., so as to eliminate the stress riser. Because otherwise you had a teardown or 2 and you went to tighten a jug up and *jink* you broke a bolt, I think the later factory bolts did exactly this. This was on early Yamaha TZR350s and 750s btw..
I bought a 1997 Jeep xj last summer with a broken piston skirt. It only had 170K ton it. I just pulled the oil pan and head. It was the #3 piston. I just ordered a piston and gasket kit from Rock auto. Though I failed to order a new pan gasket was able to clean the old one with RTV! It all works great. No leaks and runs good. I’m 56 and this is how I have fun. I put 4.5” lift and 35” milestar mud tires and wheel that were close to new from market place for cheap.
NICE, HAVE FUN, SIR.
I also like to surgically fix my own stuff. No need to rebuild an entire engine, trans, rear end if its not necessary.
I like to see how good I can make something for the least amount of money. I still want to be kid of cool 😎. Even though it’s kinda silly. My daily is a 2007 v8 4Runner with only 290k I bought it 2 years ago for $4500 put in all new suspension CV axles Tires and detailed it’s been 100% reliable and for what is it kinda fast I do have 33” tires on it.
Thanks for the teaching.
egr and pcv puts gunk in intake
Thanks for the new series UT. This perfect for me. I’m sorta starting to become fascinated by the IC engine invention, in general, and only now appreciating just how many explosions are actually happening per second in an engine🤯Then it’s all timed!?! 🤯and how strong the block is?!🤯 etc. Its cool to see this step by step breakdown and series. 👍🏻
Man I have learned so much from this guy thanks got all my old junk back up an running 😂😂😂 thank u
I was exposed to the Machinery's Handbook when rebuilding my first engine.
Very useful for checking whether standardized parts - like fasteners - are in spec.
You are absolutely correct . As a machinist i agree 100 %
The Machinery's Handbook is the Bible to most engineering and mechanical designers. Invaluable information on math, geometry, iron, steel, fasteners, machine tools, tooling, fits, tolerances and interferences for assemblies, speeds and feeds for machining, coloring steels, material properties and so much more.
I own two, the standard toolbox size and the LARGE PRINT version that was "handy as a pocket" as I neared the end of my career in mechanical design.
I highly recommend the Machinery's Handbook to anyone that builds anything.
@@dadstillsurfs Dang, I have one but haven't seen it in years. Good summer project rummaging through my machine shed.
Finding the Fugly...
4.0s toward the end had cracking cylinder head issues, prior to, if you were good about oil and coolant changes you could count on 220 - 250k miles before the rings were ready for retirement.
Another cool thing is the reward for using good oil - #1 cylinder stays near round and with near no ridge - not bad for the cylinder right behind the water pump!
Do you think that gak in the coolant passage might be stop leak?
Lots of the issues look related to overheating.
Stop leak is such trash
I cant believe he wasted $50 worth of gasoline just to check the valves and seats! LOL
How clean is the intake valve?
Jeeps original injectors are single hole and are designed to hit the intake valve with raw fuel and clean the valve.
If you have bad injectors and the spray is off or weak then the valve will not be cleaned.
The ports also suffer with carbon buildup.
Note: Four hole injectors also don’t clean the valve either
I appreciate the info. Thanks UTG!
Great Video Tony!!!
Almost wish I'd skipped these videos so far, so I could watch 'em all together.
Always like these how to and why classes...one canadian watch for you!
Thanks U T
Learning every day thx
Years ago I had an 83 CJ7 4.2L six with a cracked head. A friend brought me a head he had in his shed. My head bolts were 1/2" diameter, but the replacement head bolt holes were 7/16" diameter. So we put the head on a drill press and made the holes 1/2". The head bolted right on and the engine ran. But it was way down on power. The only thing we could think of was that the head was from a 4.0L and had lower compression. And it only got 10 MPG!. But I had to get it running because it was my only vehicle at that time. That's when I swapped in a SBC 350 with an adapter plate. The 350 got 15 MPG with double the power.
Heads are very suspected cracking also
Looking forward to this whole series. As a guy who has never done an engine but would discount doing one in the future if the chance arises.
I have seen a lot of your videos. Wish I had your knowledge. To me it's a hobby. But with your skills it'd be a great career! Keep up the good work and thank you.
As always good video. I can't do a valve job so with a head with substantial use I take them to the machine shop and have them do it. Never been a waste of money. Taking chances doesn't pay
Now THAT'S a pry bar!!
Strange it looks just like the central shaft of a prosthetic leg.
4.0 is known for blow by which causes the oily intake. I had one so bad a ran a garden hose along the frame and dumped it on the ground. HOW DARE YOU !
I had to do that with a tortured 460 I ran in work truck for a while. Left a gnarly sludge pool wherever I parked her too
Haha pcv fumes are about one of the nastiest smells , I love my diesels but open pcv freakin reeks to heck!
One of em I routed out the grille ,only bad part was the oil mist getting to the windshield 😂
@@MrTheHillfolk you can always plumb the pcv into the air pipe feeding the turbo. That is how my old Mercedes’ diesel is. Never any fumes
@@bcbloc02 yeah it was loading the intake with alot of oil because it was tired.
I later rebuilt it and put in some total seal top gapless rings and they worked awesome.
I had to do this with my old Chevy 305, it would burn about half a quart of oil just driving 20 miles to work. Cloud of smoke rising out of the crankcase when I sat at a red light
Another thought about the gak in the intake ports could also be from the PCV valve. Depending on where it is located on the valve cover, and where the vacuum hose for the PCV valve is located could cause that build up. I could be wrong, but that could be the build up in those ports.
Good vid UT.
So sunken valve seats do happen quite often with aluminum cylinder heads. Also valves like to "tulip" or stretch because the seat area of the valve will get beaten away from the valve stem.
That’s a lot of head to keep cool and straight
If you want some good content along the same lines of your other quality control videos, buy that remanufactured cylinder head from the auto parts store. I sold them for 10 years, the quality was absolutely despicable, and very very few heads I sold were good out of the box. Also, my parts store offered three different brands of cylinder head, they were all equally terrible.
That pretty much describes all auto parts out of the big box auto parts stores. I have a local machine shop that my parts go to. I would slap a used head on before a REMAN POS from Autozone.
That's what sucks about keeping up with old cars. It's never the 30 year old part with 400,000 miles on it. It's always the same replacement parts over and over. I put a reman cylinder head on my jeep 6 or 7 years ago and I haven't had an issue but I totally believe they are done poorly. Basically no good options anymore
For reference in 2018 I had my 99 XJ long block rebuilt by an engine shop after the wife overheated it and cracked the head. They found a used replacement head. All new pistons etc. $1700. I did the removal and install myself with new 4 hole injectors and exhaust manifold which was cracked as they all do being horribly designed with inadequate exhaust hangers IMO
The dodge neon injectors?
No doubt Uncle's right about just replacing the head to save time and money, but I'm hoping he does a rebuild on it himself.
It's like you read my mind. I got a car that needs a new seal head gasket seal.
Uncle Tony could you make a video about the use of a torque plate when honing an engine people have free handed it for years but let's talk about what happens when the cylinder heads on in the bolts are tightened
Be careful on those 4.0 some of the bolt holes for the head go into water jackets you must use silicone Or liquid Teflon
Nice! You got me for a second, I thought you had a very odd slant 6 head there 🤣
Let's say you do end up going down the route of a remanufactured head. Can you list out what exactly you should take with you to the place you ordered from, in terms of what a proper "core" is they're looking for? Like would the remanned head come with rockers, or would it stop at valve springs typically?
15:35 Careful Uncle T, thar ain't the one!
Anytime I remove oem head bolts I throw them in the scrap bin, head bolts are cheap enough to buy a new set and have peace of mind.
Be kinda cool to see a slant 6 vs 4.0 I know it's apples to oranges but still think I'd be cool
That was his plan, if you had happen to catch the first video of this series
Sorry, you cannot accurately determine bolt stretch with the caliper. The .001 figure you said is less than the typical accuracy of a Vernier. You would have to measure the initial length and compare that to the length after torqueing using a micrometer. Rod bolts are typical torqued with a rod stretch gauge which incorporates a dial indicator. Not necessary for a street motor. If you are concerned with bolt stretch, just buy new bolts.
You don't have to be accurate when the diameter is off by . 004-.005. but like you said, he needs new bolts anyway. The head torque loosening process is a good give away as well.
Maybe when you're talking about the accuracy of your average Harbor Freight calipers, the ones I use are good for 2 ten thousands .
@@brucejones2354 verniers? yeah, right
indeed..or get ARP stud set...ez peasy
@@rbotton6272 nah, just re-use if not stretched. The best parts came with the engine at the fact-tree. But arp are good insurance.
When an expert tells you to get something done by the pros? Listen... Thanks. 🇬🇧👍
I like this tony guy he is going to go places for sure.
He has already been places....
We just need to raise more young people like him now.
@@MrDJ217I see my sarcasm went over your head
The old joke was, "that man is going places, and the sooner is better".
@@mikekokomomike 😆
@@somewhatfast no time for sarcasm now days barely unfortunately. I'm being serious. Young people are highly uninformed. And its a big issue
I'm pretty sure one of those head bolts needs permatext when installing cause it protrudes into a water jacket
My local shop just told me that I should purchase the headbolt set of which is supposedly recommended with a headgasket set, despite my shop manual not recommending replacing these. The engine series following mine, however, does indeed demand replacing the headbolts. The second series is of a totally different design.
Thanks to your tutorial, I'll go out an invest in a precision micrometer, to make sure that my shop manual hasn't erred
For the cost of a head bolt set, I just always reccomend to my customers new head bolts. Although, most of my customers are driving cars with TTY headbolts anyways, but even when they aren't, I will usually just say "it's a good idea to just replace them anyways". It's a CYA move on my part, just in case. Never had a customer decline either. They usually trust me enough to trust my judgement. Besides that, you're talking between 40-50 bucks for a head bolt set, on top of a hundreds, or possibly over a thousand dollar head gasket job.
@@Spike-sk7ql this is a MUST it is cheep insurance and helps in the over all torquing and keeping the Cylinders uniform
I reuse head bolts unless the manual recommends them. Or if they are visibly damaged (you can put a straightedge on the threads to see if they are pulled in). Aftermarket parts may not be of the same quality as OEM parts.
@@mph5896 interesting Choice not the one i would make and it is easy to do a Rockwell test on a new bolt to test
@@claycoates5056 No, I am not spending money on another tool I don't need. I already bought a key duplicator that is sitting on my work bench🤣.
Honestly, dealers reuse head bolts all day long. Good enough for them, good enough for me.
Are you go to submerge the block in 55 gallon water and baking soda and electrolysis it to clean it inside and out ?
Hugh,I agree with you,you do a average build,parts and maching1500-2000,and now you don,t want to spend 50$ on bolts,go right ahead,watch that head gasket come out.Alot of times the threads at the top of the thread length are sitting above the deck in the head bolt holes,even if its just a couple,and over time,bad oil and gas and carbon gets in there and sits for how many years,as a example,you remove a head and the head bolts are covers in black crap sitting rotting the threads and the shank of the bolt away.After working on engines for 49 years form race cars,trucks,and aviation,you see alot of shit,and there can be badly made bolts on the factory line,god forbind that out of the 10,s of millions of bolts being made for as cheap as possible that there be a few thousand difference in the thread pitch or the diameter.Scott Preston/mrmopartech
Get the injectors checked or run them yourself to see if they sprayed properly.
It’s been lean possibly
Check fuel rail too
Easy way to check for a stretched bolt is to run a nut down it by hand with your fingers. If it binds or stops, replace the bolt..............
That's how I learned. First experiences were with wheel studs. I could tell when someone liked to overtighten their wheel nuts because the nut didn't feel smooth or consistent or bound when threaded.
You been watching AvE ?😉
ua-cam.com/video/hMGzHQf1ANc/v-deo.html
What year is this engine & also a flashlight would be useful when showing us the piston walls. Thank You.
Very front head bolt (left) one is screwed in to a wet hole
What if there are ridges at the top of the cylinder wall. Could be just carbon buildup or what's the worst case. Something that catches a finger nail lightly
Harikasın tony
Why you swipe PEG'S LEG, Uncle TOny!!??? lol😉
Shop Class with our Uncle Tony..
Get some...
@∅🇺🇲
What is the casting # on the head ? Might want to do a little home work before rebuilding it. 0331 , not good ,different years have different port configurations. Make sure it will work with the intake on the jeep you're putting it in.
Most engines that run port fuel injection don’t have much ring ridge. This is due to the proper amount of fuel, not washing the cylinder when it’s cold. You look at most carbureted engines and they have a ridge.
Correct me if I'm wrong. Weren't all early slant sixes solid lifters? I don't think they did hydraulic lifters on sixes until '79 or '80
He's showing you a jeep 4.0 L engine, not a slant 6 mopar
New rings/inserts/gaskets/hone it and drive it. No race car. Sorry - I'm poor and the bare minimum worked. 35 psi on the oil / 140 psi compression - send it.
will you also do the valve leak test on them after you redo the heads to double check the seal?
YES
if i remove a head correctly without any overheat issues will the head always be straight? and how bad is it to not follow the star pattern?
A good rebuild would include new head bolts anyway! Valve job will take care of all the problems your
showing everyone!
Is grinding valves and seat's a thing of the past?
I’ve played with these 4.0 ‘s a lot ant the head are prone to warping and cracking. Certain ones are really bad.
It's the Chrysler heads for 00 and 01 as they were made poorly and too thin. The 0630 (pre 00) is really an amc head. Only time I've seen them fail is if stop leak was in the system at some point causing hot spots.
the suspense was killing me
I was building an engine from old parts. Just lined up headbolts by length from 3 different motors and used the shortest ones.
The scandinavian hot-rod standard engine is the volvo redblock. Known being inside in the highest miler car volvo p1800. I think it has the same burnchamber as in a buick.
Factory performance motors have around 1hp/cui, but they go up to 2hp/cui NA. Stock motor, with new rods can go 3hp with turbo. Record for this motor is in a dragster thay goes more than 800hp from a 2litre 4 cyl, desinged in the 1950s.
You could go and see this guy "David Bello" or another enthusiast.
I think you would enjoy seeing a teardown of a volvo b18/b20 while talking about similarities on american desings ;)
Does anyone know what is a good source of remanufactured heads? I am looking for one for a 2002 Trailblazer. non performance.
Eh, cut about . 080" of the deck, and about the same from the head, with the pistons out the block slight amount tgen clearance tge pistons, Mae get the cam reground, get a bit of spice , with about 10:1 maybe 11:1, and smooth out the runners , a ceramic coating on the ports, chamber and piston, port the intake match it to the head, a decent exhaust.. keep the heat from the intake a bit, with the coatings, it should be a spicy Daily driver, with a marine cam grind possibly, or maybe a towing cam, basically the only cost would be for the machine work and cam,. I have heard of using 3.8 cranks in the 4.0, building a stroker engine, they can nake decent power for a street engine,
I want to get a vortec 4200, and sneak a turbo on it, it would be awesome to have control of both cams also the duration, program the ECM to give overlap and some duration to give a choppy idle, but drop all that and revert to settings to make TQ by just off idle 800-900 rpm or so, upgrade to better rods and forged Pistons, 9.5:1 with boost aroubd 1-1.5 bar, keep your foot out of it, and it shoould be a good daily! Haha,
Put the threads together with a known good bolt and you’ll see the threads don’t line up together
Uncle Tony.
Why don’t you do the same test to try pistons that you do to the heads?
You can see the % difference displayed before our very eyes
all slant 6 engines were solid lifter except for one year
81-87 were all hydraulic....but, this is a jeep engine