Your First Engine Job - Making Judgement Calls For Your Build
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 січ 2023
- Every engine comes with its own issues, situations and expectations, and it's important to match your plan to the desired results and budget.
We talk about decisions we've made for our Jeep Six Banger concerning the cam and lifters and cylinder head as well as answer comments and questions from the previous video.
MERCHANDISE:
Get Your UTG T-Shirts Here: uncletonysgarage.com/product/...
Get Your UTG Stickers Here: uncletonysgarage.com/product/...
OUR STORE: uncletonysgarage.com
*SOCIAL MEDIA:
Facebook: / uncletonysgarage1 - Авто та транспорт
It's your fault that I rescued an old YJ from the woods at my in-law's house, assembled a 4.0/4.6 stroker for it, for the wife to drive, and am now building a 1968 Rambler into a gasser.
Thanks for the practical nature of yoir channel. For 20+ years I was hesitant to start certain projects for want of the "right time and resources".
Well, there is no right time better than now.
Thanks.
Yep, no better time than now to get as many toys as you can... The hard truth is it's only going to get harder to enjoy being a gearhead.
@@allurared9029 for sure. I had not paid much attention to price and availability of parts for the stuff want to build for about 10 years. Wow, was I shocked.
Junkyards have dried up (around here anyway) and new parts, if you can find them have tripled in price.
Yay.
I've got a pretty strong desire to hoard now. Haha
@Phillip Merrill Yep same here. I'm 19 and got into this 3 years ago. I'm amazed looking back at the prices then compared to now. People think what should be a parts car is worth restoring and worth $3000. Especially higher trim models or muscle cars.. we are in the era of $5000+ for a rusty shell. Michigan is especially short on parts, a lot of cars got so rusted and rough they went straight to the shredder rather than become a parts car in a yard.
like David Freiburger says "Don't get it right, just get it running"
My first engine job was a big block Chevy 402 out of a 2 door 71 Caprice I had in high school. It was using a quart of oil every 100 miles and had a main bearing knock on start up. A turned crank and a new set of rings with a 280 duration and .563 lift cam and 750 double pumper later it was all better. The motor was so heavy, I had to pull the heads off first and install them last so the oak tree limb wouldn't break. 🤣🤣
Back in the 1960s when I was learning to rebuild engines under the shade tree, we mixed up all the valve springs, rockers, pushrods, and lifters in a bucket of gasoline to clean them. When everything was clean, we took chassis grease and lubed the crank and rod bearings, and everything else that moved. Put everything together. Who knew that parts should go back where they came from? The engine fired up and ran just fine which was amazing. We were 14 and 15 year old kids then and we surprised ourselves. The engines we worked on were old flathead Mopars and Chevy sixes. The V8s would come later. But we all learned. And the cars kept running. And we never heard of a torque wrench either.
I agree wholeheartedly. We all make judgment calls everyday and we don't realize it even on the simple things.
Sometimes however the decision is made for us.
A good example of this is when I used to work on forestry equipment the bolts that hold the cutting knives in place on the brush chippers, the manufacturer recommends reusing the bolts once. And always use torque oil on the threads and tighten to 210ft. lbs.
And because of the liability involved, I kept record because a lot of customers wanted to keep reusing they're old bolts. I understand even back then they were expensive but so is a broken knife revolving thousands of RPMs. I have seen the blades open up like a can opener the 3/16" plate the chipping chamber was made out of. This was on a Vermeer BC1000 considered a smaller machine. The BC1800 is what I worked on most. They are a no joke machine.
I'm 64 and have been a mechanic forever working in many situations including a engine remanufacturing facility and never once had to break in a cam stock or mild performance. A lot of regroups cams used aswell. For whatever reason I never had a cam failure so other than quality or the early oils we had at the time not sure what changed.
It was not a problem till they took zinc out of the oil, because of catalytic exhaust and most modern engines use roller camshafts.
I seen my dad when I was young. He worked away from home he could rebuild the 292 in his old Ford unibody with out pulling motor new rings and bearings going valves by hand and it was running in 2 days.he drove thousands of miles over the years and it always worked for him .
My buddy did that he rebuilt a chevy 350 the same way. I was dubious. But that engine ran strong for I don't know how many miles. The truck rusted out and the engine went into the corner of his garage in running condition.
I seen my dad when I was young too.
@@bartsarton2212 isn't that something. I 'saw' mine as well.
I'm going to have to come back and watch this. Blues Brothers is on tv and it's too hard to pay attention to both. 🤣
Tony, the oil filter adapter- it SHOULD be a T50 Torx, but word of warning, its a pain to get loose, but almost a requirement when doing a refresh. Most gasket kits dont come with the O-rings for it, (my last felpro didnt) and you sometimes need to order it seperately. Best way to get it off is give it some heat, and work that torx back and forth. Theres a roll pin from the block to the filter adapter that will snap if you go full beans on the wrench (the adapter will spin instead of the torx bolt). Just a tidbit of hard earned AMC I6 knowledge. The water jacket ports you mentioned were a carry over actually from the AMC 4.2L I6 heads, the 4.2 has the corresponding ports in the block if I remember correctly. Keep up the good videos bro!- The Kikendall
It was always a T60 on the ones I've done, which is a pain for some people because most basic torx sets stop at T55. In the vehicles that use the adapter there's not enough room for a standard length T60 to fit, so you often have to cut one down. It is a pain to get off without heat like you said, which I've been told is due to factory thread locker. It makes sense, since you don't want your oil filter adapter to start loosening at some point in its life, but it does make getting it off in the vehicle a knuckle busting affair. In the vehicle, it comes out easier on a hot engine, but outside of it without the frame rail in the way it is much easier and you can just hit it with an impact. Luckily if you live in the rust belt and the exposed part corrodes you can still get a mopar part for it.
Not all are Torx, my '93 has a cap head bolt needing an allen key and I know that was installed on the production line.
Something to consider on the valve stem heights. If you are working with a older engine that may have had several valve jobs the valve seat and valve face probably have been reground, several times. This will show up when comparing the valve stem heights.
I broke an ARP head bolt on a small block Chevy race engine once. Not having another I dug around in the bolt bucket. Found a stock one. Threw it in and never looked back. I rebuilt that engine every year. And continued to use that stock bolt. Just out of spite
If you are going to re-use valve springs on a 100K mile engine that has most likely overheated more than once, I think it would make sense to check the pounds at both open and closed installed height, compare them to factory specs--THEN make your decision. Maybe the reason some of the valves started leaking is because the springs overheated and lost tension? You could get a decent spring rate tester without overspending and for newer guys who may not have the equipment, any decent machine shop will measure them for you for a fee. I think it's a fools errand to just "chuck 'em back in" on an old engine that you want to be reliable and go the distance. XJ 4.0 are popular, a basic single spring set can't be more than $150 max.
My first engine was a 460 ci ford I put into an 79 f-600 rollback still running and I proud of it😂😂😂
Great Content Tony. Real talk about how to make judgment calls is definitely worth listening to!
Tony, my son and I did a rebuild on a 2.8 (I think) liter 84 Cherokee in our basement. Why? Because he wanted to and he wanted to learn. I’m not a engine builder but I do have some experience in doing it. All said and done it ran very well. This was in 1998. He joined the Army and took engineering and became crew chief on black hawks then on to build jet engines. You just never know how many people you are helping In life with sharing your unselfish knowledge. 🙏🏽👍🇺🇸✌🏻
The 2.8l would have been a GMC V6 which are only found in the early ones. Cherokees also came with a 2.5l I4 and the 4.0l I6
@@gundude82 thank you for informing me that 2.8 was GMC.
7:03 after learning about engine building from books only throughout my teens and twenties, I didn't do a top end rebuild on anything until I was 30 years old with a 3.3L Intrepid engine with 157K miles. Imagine my surprise when the forums and how-to's about an otherwise perfectly normal pushrod V6 engine talked about replacing head bolts and intake manifold bolts. I thought it was ridiculous...until I looked at the bolts I pulled and you could see the difference between the stretched portions and the unstretched portions of the threads. So I bit the bullet and bought sets of bolts from the dealer. Waited 3-4 weeks for them to come in. Got the heads back from the machine shop, got a bolt extracted from the intake, received all the gaskets and things I needed. Finally the bolts show up and I do my reassembly and everything's fine. Drove the car for a bit, sold it to a friend, she moved across the country and had it at least 3-4 years. Traded it at 225K miles on a new car, regretted that 4 years later out of warranty when the engine in the new car locked up. She ran into the girl at work that SHE sold the Intrepid to and it was doing fine at 260K.
So while I understand the desire to have durable parts that can work in a looser engine many times, I also understand the need to have less than durable parts to allow them to work REALLY WELL one time maybe two times. And if it means I have to buy a $120 set of bolts for a head gasket and valve job to get 150k or more out of it rather than not spend it and be doing the job again in 60K miles...well...I don't mind spending that money.
I work in an auto shop, had a spare motor to build to replace my smokey 350, tore the motor down, scheduled with the machine shop, hit two deer, sold the motor fixed the body, drove smokey for another year bought a crate long block.
Rebuilding an engine is excellent reason for buying a set of mikes(inside and out), a dial indicator, and a good vernier caliper. I remember being taught to test the bottom of lifters with the side of other lifters. On many of the old Chevy s, I had to use a special lifter pulling tool. Good video and discussion. Good Luck, Rick
Instead of a lifter puller push them out the bottom. If those lifters are really bad they could be mushroomed and will gouge the lifter bores if pulled out the top.
If you invest in all these nice measuring devices ,send "em out once a year to a metrology lab and get them calibrated to NIST standards. Otherwise the micrometers are just C-clamps
@@kevinmcguire3715 My mics are 40+ years old. The trick is to have standards to measure against and adjust the mics. As long as everything is at 68* there shouldn't be any trouble.
@@richardross7219 :I ran a metrology lab here in Silicon Valley for some years until I retired .You might be amazed at what micrometers can be checked for.. Visit a lab and check it out . They don't give you optical flats in your micrometer case for example. How would you know your micrometers anvils are parallel . Those little bars they give you in the mike box get checked also for squareness and accuracy .Tenth mikes are worth keeping in periodic cal especially if you want to do buisness in today's biz world as it is generally required. When I started out in machining as a kid, measurement devices were calibrated to a platinum -iridium bar kept in France. Nowadays they utilize light waves of Krypton 86 and are quite portable.
@@kevinmcguire3715 That's in a lab not in a garage. The tolerances really weren't that tight on Chevy 250s, 283s, 350s, and 396s. A lot of it was plus or minus several thousandths. The only really tight specs were the bearings. I use Plastigauge on them. I rebuilt several dozen engines and all ran for many years. The cars rotted around them. The last time I rebuilt a Chevy 350 was 22 years ago. Its in my C-30 Chevy and runs fine but is only a yard truck because of body rot. Since then I mostly do small engines. When I need them, I have a 250, 283, and a 350 in my basement waiting to rebuild. I always do an oil change after only a 15 minute break in. Then one at 4 hours. I also put Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in the gas. I experimented with MMO in 1970 when I was playing with a '63 283 to put in my '64 Chevelle for drag racing. MMO does a great job of cleaaning combustion chambers and freeing piston ring grooves. Good Luck, Rick
This why you are awesome Tony. You correct the things people say that may not be completely right but you also understand that we never stop learning and you have no problem being corrected on things you may not have learned yet. This 8s the reason I love your channel. It's real and honest. I've learned a TREMENDOUS amount from you since I've been watching you. Thank you for sharing your real world knowledge!
Glad you brought some of this stuff up. Disposable Headbolt Theory, Camshaft break-ins, these weren't even a thing back when we were going through an old 327. Now on the Camshafts in an older smallblock chevy, I really drag the breaks on replacing one. If it aint broke, don't fix it.
(rant here)
What I find to be nuts is, whether it is a change in oil or metal, instead of the manufacturer of either one correcting it, the general public has just accepted it and roll the dice on a camshaft shaving its parts into the oil pump and wiping out their crank shafts or whatever else these particles make their new home. Then you proclaim your happiness when a vender hands you a replacement camshaft, for the replacement camshaft you just bought. While you are going to eat the rest of the damages inside the engine and the time to tear down and replace the cam again.
And, to my knowledge, for the past 20 years we have accepted the unacceptable. Representatives from the camshaft companies, who did farm these out overseas on us, pointed fingers at the oil manufacturers and said, "sorry, try another camshaft, it's the best we can do". As though now it was on you the consumer to battle the oil company and prove it was the oil's fault. And we all went along with it. The truth is, people should have gotten together when this stuff began and hammered on the camshaft makers, and made them prove it wasn't their failing product. Which, again, had just failed. Because to me, what has been accepted, is really unacceptable. Either one of the products, or both, is failing to do the job it was designed for and being presented to the consumer. Tip of the day, don't buy parachutes based on this standard.
🏆 good stuff Tony ! Basic common sense, bad worn bits out - good unworn bits in, job done, wash the lot in a bucket of diesel, new oil pump, box of gaskets, few tube’s of jollop, spanner’s, sockets, torque wrench, steel ruler and a set of feeler gauges, that is really all you need, clean cylinder bore’s by HAND using fine wet & dry and your diesel, cross hatch pattern, just take the glaze off, don’t imagine your honing your own bores, if you have a wear ridge at the top of the bore you can detect with your fingernail it probably needs a re-bore, crank ? Your old bearings will tell you what’s happening there, run the finger nail across the journal’s, you can simply re-ring pistons but a new set is preferable and if they are press fit have them professionally pressed on the rods, let the machinist have a look at your crank while your in there perhaps !
Go mad and bung a new timing chain set on too 👍
I don't like to replace anything unless I absolutely have to. I don't care if you're supposed to or not. If it's not broken, I'm gonna try to reuse it. Unless I'm planning on upgrading to a performance part. I've wanted to get a new cam kit. But after everything I've seen and heard. I'm scared. I can't afford to do it once, so twice is out of the question
Love the channel brother you do a great job. Keep up the great content 👍. So love the 66 charger brings joy to my heart.
I like the idea of an assembly line with a bucket of sealant and them loading a magnetic socket, dipping and ripping it into place
there just isn't a ruler big enough to slap the engineers who designed it that way.
-another eng.
After doing a lot of research on flat tappet camshaft failures most experts explain after testing the metals and finish on both lifters and cam that the problem lies in trying to add Zinc to modern passenger car oils because it won't mix properly . The experts tell us that using a non detergent oil plus adding the fines or a race specific oil like Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn type oils will insure the proper break in and wear patterns without pre mature wear . Case in point , My brother runs successful bracket cars with mechanical camshafts for years and never has any camshaft failures using the oils i mentioned .
Hi Tony, very good videos on this subject and you are very clear in the way you covering it. On the valve lengths being the same, I have worked on many engines tover the years, that had adjustable tappets so surely this wouldn't be the same issue? I never worried about it and the engines ran well. The engines I worked on were all just family type cars and not racers. Cheers Ian - New Zealand
🐿 On an old AMC 196 just plan on retorquing the head bolts occasionally according to the schedule in the manual ☺ When I get around to rebulding mine I am planning on using ARP studs 😁 And I am learning some things thanks to UTG 👍
Great info and attitude!
Everything you’ve said about this rebuild makes big sense! This design is a real work horse! Just to get down the road with easy durability! Great call UTG! ❤️👍🏾💪🏾😊💯
just like pop would say: chrome don't get ya home
Great content!
Subaru head bolts (my particular engines) can be reused, but there is a different tightening spec for pre-stretched bolts (used) vs. new.
Cummins n14 head bolts torque to 90 ft lb, 240 ft lb, + 60 to 120 degrees.
I have the plastic go-no go gauge for measuring head, rod, and main bearing bolts.
There are ones for the L10 and M11 as well.
Great info!👍
I had head bolts from a 60's chevy 6 i used as a pin for the thumb on my backhoe, they would last for years, i was stunned.
I love your videos, me also being a older time mechanic or more a classic car mechanic, mainly Chevrolet and Fords, but I find your insight into the small details is great, stuff they just don't teach todays mechanics, very informative, I so happen to be rebuilding or restoring my 2002 WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee, of course my 4.0L is running great but in this video I saw one of your engine blocks painted yellow, and I love that color and will go with my color scheme with my Jeep, oddly I didn't even think about that color until I watched your video.
Anyway I do plan on rebuilding my 4.0L in the near future since trying to stick a V8 in WJ's is a completely different headache in itself unlike old classics that are no Brainers and not much trouble.
Anyway keep up the great informative videos. 👍
My first car 87 cavalier. Blew head gasket. Dad said "wanna replace it or scrap the car?" I said replace. He sighed said "ok"
We took head off and found a crack. We surfaced the block and head with a air angle grinder and 3m pad, slapped the head back on with new gasket, re used the head bolts. Threw some bars leak in and it ran like a top!
Thanks Tony
Thanks very much for your wisdom Tony. I am following along with this series as I begin rebuilding a Kawasaki motorcycle engine from the 90s. Parts are about 10x harder to come by compared to automotive and more expensive sometimes too, so I appreciate you thinking of viewers who cannot just go out and replace everything (price would exceed the value of an entire running bike).
I like these little engines I have garage and roadside rehabbed quite a few of these very easy to work on just don’t forget the sealer on that one bolt lol
Thank you Sir👍
I just run nasty bore taper in Canada like a mad man because machine shops think it’s acceptable to charge $600 alone for a bore, 350 for a hot tank wash, 200 for cam bearing install, 300 for press fit rod install/ resizing etc. Plus ordering off Summit, Jegs and Rock auto these days with shipping and the exchange rates makes it hard for a guy to work on his hot rod. Not that I’m on an extreme budget but I cannot justify and normalize spending nearly $2000 at the machine shop alone on every build…
Looking forward to tomorrow👍👍.
Easy to tell a tty bolt is the degree angle after a numbered torque spec, if it says to finish with an angle it’s a torque to yield….however my 350k mile Honda has had the head off multiple times on factory bolts without issue
If a part has lived in an engine for 20 years and is in good condition it’s good to go for another 10 years as it’s proven its self. That’s my judgement call.
I got to do a valve job in high school auto shop, but I don't remember getting all of this information. All I remember is the valves were worn on the seat area and took a bit of grinding, and that the shop teacher said the customer was happy with how it ran afterward.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Some of the oil build up in the ports is, in fact, from the CCV system. The breather from the valve cover is actually routed to the intake air duct. The line from the intake manifold to the valve cover is the fresh air inlet into the engine. The Jeep straight 6 one of the last mass produced passenger car engines that doesn't feature some kind of air/oil separator. All Jeep owners must install an oil catch can. Oil in the intake air charge is never good under any circumstance.
East Bongosqueegee?
That's where the Mammyjackers come from!
I once helped put a whole V8 Buick together to find out the lifters wouldn't slide in from the top of the bore
Out came the cam the crank and the cussing
I like to plumb the PCV to the port on the back of the carburetor. If there's any blow-by ( even a little) it mixes with the main intake stream. I you plumb to a port on the back of the intake ( V8 ) it might pollute two or more intake runners.
When I’ve done DIY motors at home for daily drivers, I’ve always been sucked into the conundrum of the motors out…… the clearance is a little bit too much “so I might as well do it properly”
Bore it out and put new Pistons then put new this and put new that….
all under the guise that you might as well do it now while the motor is out
and you end up spending waaay more than you wanted to to start with
so I don’t know what the answer is but you have to be careful to not replace stuff under the guise of reliability……
...TTY bolts..had a late 80's escort 1.9L ,replaced the head, reused the head bolts..using a flat washer torqued to spec.. ran like a charm..no issues..like Tony says that always doesn't work in every situation.
According to my factory shop manuals, on my 1998 Ford E250 Van with the 4.2 engine, there are 6 bolts that fasten the torque converter housing to the engine block and 3 bolts that fasten the torque converter housing to the oil pan.
5 out the 6 bolts have a torque range of 50-68 Nm and the 3 oil pan bolts have a torque range of 40-55 Nm.
The sixth engine block bolt has a torque range of 40-55 Nm.
Lucky for me I had my trusty Harbor Freight torque wrench at hand to get the job done!
(Whups, don’t tell the customer that you fixed their vehicle using Harbor Freight tools)
Those are great motors.
Ye in the old Holden's and Ford's never had to replace the head bolt's until EA Falcon I think 80's then they are talk to yield, X amount talk then 90 degrees +90 degrees, but I use them to make pully pullers or guide bolt with head cut off to line up and fit gearbox's ,engine etc ideal as hook's in pullers, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Tony in the past you have literally told us about the nut trick, would have been one of the storage unit videos I think it was possibly around the time when you did the roller 360 for swinger.
Good video
I could be wrong, but i always thought the newer head bolts are torque to yield because the designers want to minimize the cyclic loading on the bolt, which causes fatigue. The head bolt and cylinder head can be though of as two springs in parallel, so the softer spring would give more, less cyclic load, for a given clamp force. To do this , one uses a long bolt with minimum cross sectional area. The softer spring clamp force would also vary during with differential thermal expansion.
You rationale about thermal expansion in correct for smaller diameter bolts and everything else. But I don't think that's why they're torque to yield. You could achieve the same effect in the elastic zone(i.e. rod bolts)
I believe they're torque to yield because that's when you reach the maximum possible clamping force before it breaks.(look at a force/yield diagram, it goes up before failure)
Therefore you need less bolts for a given surface clamping force in the head. And also, if they fail (break)heads gotta come off. And if a "normal" bolt fails(stretch) heads gotta come of as well because it will have burnt the gasket. Also in both situations the bolts (stretched or broken) will both have to be replaced either way.
So technically better use of the material, less bolts with same clamping force.
Rod bolts for example are torqued to a point at which the fatigue stress in only unidirectional instead of both ways. That gives it longer fatigue life (and has everything to do with your example with springs). It's pretty ingenious. I do believe it's talked about in Heywood, IC fundamentals. Great book.
Agree 100% 🙂
I would clean all the valves, lap them, install the at the correct spring height, and check of leakage, Bob's your uncle.
I've rebuilt about a half dozen sbc engines and have reused the head bolts every time. I even reused some tty bolts on an ls cylinder head and never once caused a bit of trouble
Like the build series u do .. I have a Jeep 4.0 so watching close just need transmission info too think my solenoids may b acting up
Tony often on those old head bolts were actually often grade 8. Many machine shops have test equipment to ascertain the hardness of materials, basically a an press with a calibrated pressure gauge and appropriate pressure point. We had to test some of our fasteners and such due to an failure of something that simple could cost half a million dollars if it failed. Believe it or not we found some NEW fasteners did not pass muster. We had our own test stand due to the situation. Also got to be careful as a fastener that is to hard will be brittle and fail also. On these No new factory bolts available this test machines may be your best bet.
The factory head bolts I never really trusted so I'd replace after then a second use. The ARP head studs though I've used over and over. I think I'm on my 8th use on my boosted stroker and there are no signs of distortion on them, yet at least anyway. That front 'wet' bolt it is possible aftermarket bolts have a different threat depth. Best to check how far it goes in to thread seal appropriately, obviously lol. Also it is possible that an aftermarket bolt and and aftermarket waterpump CAN interfere with each other on assembly. You may end up shredding the end of a new or old pump, just to keep in mind. Also if you decide to clean it internally there are drainage holes near the lifter cavities and they can actually block right up and even look like normal but there should be holes there for drainage. Also at the back of the block sediment likes to build up inside the water jacket. Grab a good pokey jabby to dig out the cruft. I attached a tube to a vacuum to suck the junk out from back there through the ports at the back of the deck as I'm breaking it all up. You could also bump the compression a bit and not worry about it fuels today are way better, it is an anvil with cylinders carved out of it after all.
2 years ago I started to rebuild a Chevy 350, as I was tearing the motor down. I threw away the cam and the lifters. Then as I started to do more research, i found what you were talking about with the problem with Cam and lifters. I haven't touched the engine since because I'm scared to death. I'm going to get a shit cam or lifters. I wish I didn't throw those Cam and lifters away because there was nothing wrong with them.
Some of the 4.0's are notorious for cracking the head. Around 2000 models, casting 0331.
On my 1993 Cherokee the bolt on the oil filter adapter wasn't a torx, it is a 9/16's Allen or Hex fitting.
Alloy headed engine’s replace the head bolts due to the expansion growth of the alloy to the cast iron blocks.
They have to act like springs (grow) through cycles
Many bolts even the old ones act as a "spring," that is how many bolted connections are designed. There has to be pretension. Also these newer fasteners are torque to yield which ensure maximum reliable clamping taking into account block and head material and also thread condition, friction under the fastener head during installation.
Keep at it BOSS...
Thanks for your efforts..
UTG ...
@∅
Bravo
problem: intake gasket leak
solution: replace 1 hour, few bucks
car guy solution: 'well theres no point not upgrading the injectors while im in there, which means i need that fuel pump. But that means removing the tank.... ....ecu remap.... .decat.....
= off the road 3 year project and 5k in parts
my guess on the older headbolts is that those engines were designed for racing high/perf and then put on the street in production form. Also almost all the engines were thick deck iron heads & iron blocks. Once we got to thin deck aluminum heads on iron blocks (looking at you POS 3.8 Ford) head bolts became more of a big deal and tourque to yield is probobly better in an assembly line format. All that said newer engines like the 3.8 ford 3800 gm etc are designed for production first and like almost everything coming from Detroit all they care about is how it goes together the first time and we are on our own from there.
I have knowingly drilled out head gasket holes on engines where there were only sand casting clean outs [since one was there on the block that corresponded with it] and in retrospect, I wonder if it might not potentially cause problems with the cooling because some engines are coolant ported in such a way as to ensure all of the coolant flows all the way to the back, so the back does not end up overheating...
In the future though, I will be certain to be much more wise and careful before drilling through my head gaskets.
Are you planning to use a later model horseshoe manifold with a carb on one of your 4 litres?
Th whole torque to yield business started with aluminum heads. And they figured if they sold a set of bolts with every head gasket that would be really good. I've been racing Neons for years and if I used new bolts every time I had a head off I'd be broke.
Tony, do you plan on decking the block and head? When I did my 300 and the couple 4.0s the machinist was telling me because of the length of the block they tend to distort and I really should cut it. Considering you had a blown head gasket it kind of makes sense.
Speaking of lifters, what’s your thoughts on the new comp evolution lifters?
Hey man I have a dumb question what is your break in procedure with the cam sense your reusing lifters and cam ? Love the videos man .
Hehe, I recycled used TW cylinder heads and arp head studs many times, even over different engines, Absolutely worth the money to have hard studs instead of the stupid tty stock head bolts (88 5,0 HO)..... I foind 90s Comp roller rockers that were used as well. They built shit HD back then.
every motor i cored at the yard i had coffee cans id save all the bolts ,never had any issues reusing any
2 questions
Do you torque the head bolts once, or repeat the sequence til they all stay tight?
Can we expect an AMC powered classic mopar?
I have a question. At what point do you decide to go to a machine shop and have the engine rebuilt? Is it possible to do bearings successfully at home that last??
What's a good way to identify a collapsed lifter? I know I got at least one, but which one/ones.
I use diesel oils in flat tappet engine,those lifters are small block 318,360 dodge
could you use a die to check the threads on the head bolts to see if they're warped ect? if the teeth start taking off material then they're bad ? when it comes to those bolts exposed to coolant I run thread sealer inside the threaded hole all the way and add sealer to the threads so when it's tightened up sealant will still be coated on the bolt threads and if not I rub thread sealant on the threads that are exposed . I use that small gray tube of sealant by permatex that is specifically for coolant
I witnessed same thing with my dad. Now I can't get my kids interested. Oh well. Great show on you tube.
Torque to yield bolts. Joys of aluminum blocks.
In valve springs will you match the pressure of the springs with shims?
Is there still such a thing as shimming old valve springs?
Probably your best video series . Pure information and judgment .
Tony, what was the ticking noise when you rolled the motor over prior to removing the head?
my wife makes judgement calls all the time, luckily I've not been too old and worn out yet to be thrown out and replaced with a new one yet :p
UT, wouldn't it be better to just buy a used head that isn't warped and has no bad seats or guides?
Also where is the id on the head saying what plant it was made in? Looking for a 92 or 93 head cast in New haven
Up until recently, new head bolts weren't readily available for Datsun L series engines.
Were is pegs leg?
Maybe install the head, and coat the bolt with sealer from inside the water pump cavity. Might do a better job of sealing the bolt. My 2 cents.
Thanks for doing this Tony. When you pulled the head and showed those blocked up water jackets, I was trying to get a better look at the block, because our Aussie Chrysler hemi 6 has the same setup, goes nowhere.
This series I think is ideal for the many who just want to see an extra 100,000 miles out of their engine on a budget. There are those who just have to, without exception, replace or machine every conceivable part, this channel really isn't for you. 😛
Tony, what are the yellow engine block and pinion carrier or whatever that thing is???
If those passages deadhead into the head gasket, why not fill/block the passages and reduce your number of opportunities for a head gasket leak???
How about a video on piston skirt knurling.
Do all aluminum headed engines use torque to yield bolts? The new kind that stretch? I re-used ours in a 230 Chevy, I didn't even check them, but I knew they were good ole bolts.
UT, since a brand new set of flat tappets may or may not be shit, would you recommend having the ORIGINAL OEM lifters refaced? A local regrinder, Delta Cams in Tacoma, does this. They gotta be better than Chinesium! P.S. Maybe DV should go that route with Mission Impossible.