Repairing Stripped Spark Plug Threads in Aluminum Heads Without Removing them. EASY
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
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Fixing stripped spark plug holes are usually easy with these rethreading kits. The kits below are for fixing 14mm 1.25 pitch (most common modern spark plug thread). These are a heli coil alternative. (much easier and safer to use)
Here is a good kit like the one I used
amzn.to/3Fbw1Or
Additional inserts for the kit above
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Loctite Automotive 271 (6ml)
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Loctite Automotive 271 (36ml)
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Below is a very nice advanced kit if you need to repair often (14mm)
amzn.to/3isVt8f
Never use a air power ratchet to tighten spark plugs-i cant believe i just seen this because i really thought this guy was better than this
Air powered? Lol. I can’t remember the last time I’ve used one of those. That’s good advice for an amateur for sure, but a troll comment in general. I do see why they put directions on everything in the comments section.
youre supposed to remove the spark plug after installing the insert and then use the other tool to flare out the knurls that are at the top of the insert... thats why your spark plug doesnt come even with the insert. its also going to cause your spark plug to be insanely stuck next plug change, or be loose enough to get shot out again.
Awesome video. I have seen a bunch of old timers cover the tap with grease and use the grease to hold the chips and swarth, but I have always preferred the vacuum method like you use. I haven't tried cutting a hole in the hose line, though. I like that idea. Always learning new tricks on your channel!
Thanks!
Time-Sert is better. Those Save-A-Threads can pop out.
Just picked up a 5.4 triton f150 and blew a plug on way home thought i was gonna have hit up my parts truck but you just saved me some time and money thank you
Hope it helps! These should work!
When reading the title of this video....the first car brand going through my head was Ford🤣🤣
The thread inserts I used were actually the same as the ones for the famous ford 5.4 threads. So you weren’t wrong.
Very true I get same problem with my ford
Technically this isn't repairing the thread, its re-threading the said thread :D because you are creating a new one. Btw, have you tried restoring the thread instead? Our product rotary thread (shameless plug) can fix/restore it, and it works on different thread pitch, inch, metric & pipe.
Btw, my concern on working with machine especially sparkplug, what if the engine catches all the metal dust after? I am sure the vacuum cannot get them all.
I'll check it out. Thanks!
I checked out what I believe you are talking about, and unfortunately that wouldn't have worked on this one. I had no threads to repair. I feel like I may have looked at the wrong product though, because that what I looked at would have been worse for introducing metal dust into the cylinder.
@@DeathTollRacing ah if there's no thread to begin with, the tool you used is better :)
I'd say it was cross threaded at some stage before but what would I know.
I think you're right.
The problem is most newer v6s ect have the plugs back and under the motor, none are the same angle and I have little to no space to get back there.. I've had a hell of a time and definitely couldn't fit no vacuum or air hose back there. This car with these tools would be easy peasy lemon sqeezy.
You can try and pack grease on all the tooling so hopefully the metal chips will all stick to it if the vacuum isn’t an option.
Using the vacuum cleaner isn't going to keep chips from falling in unless a valve is open to let air enter the cylinder. Some of it blew out when you hit it with the blow gun, but it's unlikely to have removed them all. A blow gun with a long thin tube that'll go into the cylinder helps.
I pack the tap with grease and it holds the chips. I've checked with a bore scope and nothing went in.
I mentioned the grease method in the video. In my experience the grease method makes sticky chips that if any fall in they are really hard to get out. To each their own though. In the end it’s just aluminum.
did you forget to tap the insert with a hammer to get the traction on the side of the threads so it wont come out next time?
This style was retained by loctite if I remember correctly. It’s not a huge deal if it comes out next time, all the hard work is done.
No. Don't use those. Use Time-sert kit. Get the extended kit. Timesert physically locks the insert in the head. Thread-saver relies on the swaging tool and loctite. They can pop out. Time-Sert has an extended kit for gasket and taper inserts.
Can you please fix my ford spark tread and how much will it cost
@@isaacnyamekyeadomako9767 Get the Timesert kit. It's expensive. Get the extended kit. Get Loctite green and tap oil and wheel bearing grease. You need the right length inserts.
Where can I buy the tread kit from?
www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMHL1C/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_BCB3SPRFSKY9B87H5PVA?linkCode=ml2&tag=deathtollraci-20
Top of the insert doesn’t need to be swedged after installing? Many have a knurled ring at the top to bite into the head. 🤷
These don’t, but others may. Worst case is it unthreads out with the plug next time you change them. But I’ve never had one come out.
What cause that to happen ?
Most likely someone over tightened it at some point.
Was looking for this for my 5.4 f150 lol
Very common on those. But once you fix them they usually won’t have a problem again.
If only it were this easy on a sports Trac
😢 I’m not sure on that one. But they do make some long reach versions if that’s the issue
.
What is the thread size of the tap? Not the spark plug thread size.
Thanks
I measured it because nothing says, and it appears to be 5/8-18
It's 14 x 1.25 and 18mm on the large tap.
Great job I hope I never have to do that
😂 thanks!
Man, I'm glad you made this video. I can honestly say that this is the first video for this on UA-cam for the track/kicks! keep up the great work!
Thank you! I don't know how common that is on one of these, but I'm hopeful it will help someone!
Awesome job man....
Thanks!
I love the vacuum cleaner trick ive done this repair 4 or 5 times over the years always gobbed grease on the thread chaser then blowed the cylinder out but i bet using a shop vac catches a lot more of the meta filings great idea,great video to take care.
I’ve done the grease too and found that if any does fall in it’s really difficult to get out.
That is an exceptionally masculine shirt. 🦒
I know, right?
When installing rear axles should they take a serious beating to get them to "set" in?....i can not get mine back in.
Are they spinning the driveshaft when you turn the axle or are they not to that point yet?
The bearing is tight in the housing but it shouldn’t be crazy tight. It does take finesse to get the axle in the carrier turning the axle and and lifting the end of the axle to go in the carrier from the hub end since that’s all you can hold onto. Then just a rubber hammer should be enough to get it in.
that sounds better ...... 👍👍😜👍👍
Lol. Yeah that was an embarrassing drive home.
@@DeathTollRacing 😂🤣😂….. probably sounded like death’s toll 🤪