My passenger side rear is gone as well. 228k I guess I cannot complain. Just a tip for others out there, if you have a bushing being stubborn you can thread the bolt back in just far enough to not damage threads and smack it with a hammer and it will generally drop out.
The "Trick" is to leave about half the bolt in the bushing (to protect the threads) and wack it with a 3 lb hammer, they knock the bottom plate right out and you can continue to remove the bolt. Then work the rubber (It most likely will still be in useable condition making you question why you removed it) off and slide on the new bushing.
I’m only changing out the #4 position (close to the bed) cab mounts. Do I have to loosen the #3 position (bolt behind the front seats) cab mounts to get the clearance to remove the mounts at the #4 position? Btw, on my 2005 F350 SRW the #4 position bolt is a 24mm (13/16) and the passenger side is a 21mm (15/16) for the life of me I don’t understand why Ford would do that. I’m also going to take the surface rust off, paint the hardware & the frame areas to protect it. Energy Suspension is definitely the way to go. S&B cab mount kit is a complete unit including new hardware & bolts but the $700 price is steep! Thanks Justin for all you do! Your videos are very detailed. I appreciate how you explain the process, tools & tricks!
After 2000, some explorers have the exact same problem! My 96 has rubber doughnuts that are all in tact but the lower metal washer rusted out on one, have to replace it soon.
Very helpful I'm about to replace the ones on on my 06 f350. Just keep thinking as soon as I do replace them I will have a break down and the cab would need to be lifted for repairs" head gaskets,oil cooler,ect and have them replaced then, hope that doesn't happen. I purchased new in 06 and noticed they started looking bad after just a few yrs, I also keep my truck garage and 80k miles I just started get the rear cab hitting when driving over slopes. Thanks for the info.
You could also used the cad mounts from a older model 04 and older all of them are all rubber OEM. What is the part number for the Energy mounts? Any squeaking?
Nice work!!! Glad to see someone doing work instead of just complaining about it. Did you ever get any impression of the ride quality now?? Any issues?
I have to do mine, but for some reason mine has torx bolts in it. Next is your egr and oil cooler for a truck that will last forever, Well that's my plan anyway,
I just watched another video that said you have to take the steering column loose on the driver side. ?? this guy didn’t do that. Is that overkill? Or can I still do it without it? I’m getting ready to do this on my truck. I was under it last night and looked at these and realize where that clunk has been coming from
I did not personally take any steering components loose... only jacked up cab off of frame as high as what was needed... no problems for me have put almost 9k miles on truck since this... no problems yet... but now I’m not sure on different year models (newer or older) than 2005-2007 could possibly be different... but mine is 2006. And I did not take any steering loose. So 2005-2007 should all be the same.
I may be late in asking a question though here it is: another video from S&B showed the front seat being taken out. Was it any more difficult leaving your front seats in?
I'm in the process of doing the same thing. However I'm stuck on the front passenger bolt under the battery. The nut is off the bolt but it appears the bolt is also threaded into the metal plate on top of the rubber and it just spins when I try to back the bolt out. Can you tell me how to get a grip on that plate to keep it from spinning?
The front mounts are actually rubber and their design is super hard to remove from the truck without pulling cab from what I’ve read up. I left mine alone since their rubber didn’t need replaced anyway
Removing the front bumper helps a ton for the front mounts if you do want to remove them. I have a video on my channel on removing front bumper as well!
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH Thank you very much for the reply. IF the bumper isn't too big of a job then I just might do that. At the moment there is no way I can get that front one to stop spinning because I cannot get a grip onto it. I'll check out your bumper video. Thanks again. -Scott
They age fine cause they’re not foam anymore , they’re like a polymer/ synthetic material so they won’t deteriorate supposedly. They’re holding up great.
I bought a set and they havent held up very well. I'm about 3 years in and they need to be replaced again. I'm going with S and B mounts this time. They cost about 4 times as much but should be good for the life of the truck.
Thanks for posting. On the middle rubber mounts, I thought I'd seen before where folks used a prybar to separate them. Seeing the inside hardware on those was very helpful. On the front mounts, did you have to take the front bumper off to get to the bottom half as it looks like it is Inside the frame?
No sadly not cause you have to get it high enough to remove them and replace them with new and you cannot do that without loosing them and jacking the cab up I wouldn’t think.
You definitely didn't try very hard. As others have stated you can use the bolt and hit it with a 3lb hammer or use a 1/2" extension and hit it with a hammer. And I used the same bushing kit. All you had to do was cut off the factory busings with a razor. The directions are 50/50 but they tell you enough to get the job done.
Yes, STAY AWAY FROM DAYSTAR, boy what a mistake that was. I have to take them out because it's like riding a stagecoach and when you get on a dirt road the noise will drive you nuts and the clunking. They're suppose to be universal but they're not. They don't fit good at all. STAY AWAY if you don't wanna have to do this job twice. 😡😠🤬
The fronts are actually rubber bushings not foam , so I didn’t even replace them. They were a pain to get to anyway. Just took nuts off so I could lift cab up
now that you've got that done next is your factory oil and egr cooler, then you;ll have a truck that will last forever. better invest on some air tools for that one.
TABOOVSKNOWLEDGE sadly after the 7.3 possibly early early 6.0, they swapped to the “foam” bushings for “better ride characteristics” than rubber... horrible idea. Should’ve just left them rubber. But luckily for you , your 2012 will be even easier to change than mine cause you don’t have to take anything apart on the interior if I’m not mistaken, your bolts go in from the bottom and go straight up into the cab. So if the little clips hold you literally just pull all your bolts, jack up the cab, throw new in and put bolts back thru and done! Saves you $1200+ and gets rid of those rotted cab bushings. Good luck!
TABOOVSKNOWLEDGE I purchased energy suspension poly bushings I think they were about 180 bucks. A lot cheaper than OEM replacement. Idk why the OEM are so expensive. Guess that’s ford parts for ya...
It was only the cab of the vehicle. And only went up about 3 inches. So no harm even if something was to move or scoot and fall. But appreciate you checking it out thanks !
I've watched a bunch of videos on this topic and no one shows the removal and install of front mounts. Y'all talk about it, but then never show it in the video...
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH The front frame arms around the engine on my 2006 f350 are boxed with the 2 bottom body mounts and washers/sleeves inside the frame with no visible way of removing old or installing new. They are not like the rear 6 which mount to tabs that are welded to the outside of the frame for easy access...
Thank god a actual video showing how to do this on 2003-2007 f250 trucks!! Thank you!
one of the reasons I created this video! THANKS hope you enjoyed!!!!
Did you replace the front ones?
My passenger side rear is gone as well. 228k I guess I cannot complain. Just a tip for others out there, if you have a bushing being stubborn you can thread the bolt back in just far enough to not damage threads and smack it with a hammer and it will generally drop out.
Best video out there on how to replace bushings! Thank you!!
The "Trick" is to leave about half the bolt in the bushing (to protect the threads) and wack it with a 3 lb hammer, they knock the bottom plate right out and you can continue to remove the bolt. Then work the rubber (It most likely will still be in useable condition making you question why you removed it) off and slide on the new bushing.
thread the bolt from cab (top) or from the bottom? Currently got a #3 position stuck exactly as he showed it in this video.
I’m only changing out the #4 position (close to the bed) cab mounts. Do I have to loosen the #3 position (bolt behind the front seats) cab mounts to get the clearance to remove the mounts at the #4 position?
Btw, on my 2005 F350 SRW the #4 position bolt is a 24mm (13/16) and the passenger side is a 21mm (15/16) for the life of me I don’t understand why Ford would do that.
I’m also going to take the surface rust off, paint the hardware & the frame areas to protect it.
Energy Suspension is definitely the way to go. S&B cab mount kit is a complete unit including new hardware & bolts but the $700 price is steep!
Thanks Justin for all you do! Your videos are very detailed. I appreciate how you explain the process, tools & tricks!
Great job! Now I feel confident to tackle it myself!
After 2000, some explorers have the exact same problem! My 96 has rubber doughnuts that are all in tact but the lower metal washer rusted out on one, have to replace it soon.
Doing this on mine in a week. I had the same issue. Rear passenger mount was missing. .
Fantastic video. Extremely helpful. Thanks!!!
Just ordered my bushings. Thanks for the detailed video...
Thanks for the feedback !
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH i have buy mines from O reilly.. it will be a work for this weekend.. thank you for showing how to do it.
Very helpful I'm about to replace the ones on on my 06 f350. Just keep thinking as soon as I do replace them I will have a break down and the cab would need to be lifted for repairs" head gaskets,oil cooler,ect and have them replaced then, hope that doesn't happen. I purchased new in 06 and noticed they started looking bad after just a few yrs, I also keep my truck garage and 80k miles I just started get the rear cab hitting when driving over slopes. Thanks for the info.
i 64 old man 2006 F250 Cab mount bushing replacement
Did u jack one side first replace them and then do the other side?
You could also used the cad mounts from a older model 04 and older all of them are all rubber OEM. What is the part number for the Energy mounts? Any squeaking?
Nice work!!! Glad to see someone doing work instead of just complaining about it. Did you ever get any impression of the ride quality now?? Any issues?
no issues yet rides great !
detailed video! best one i can find.
I APPRECIATE IT THANKS FOR WATCHING!
This just earned you a sub my dude
I didn't see you replace the 2 very front rubber ones. Did I miss it?
I bet he didn't replace them or never found them hiding inside the frame! Lol
@@JB-om1hp he didn't replace them , they're made from rubber and were still in good condition
I have to do mine, but for some reason mine has torx bolts in it. Next is your egr and oil cooler for a truck that will last forever, Well that's my plan anyway,
MAXIMUSISADOG oh yeah she’s done got a fresh oil cooler, and egr delete.... updated stc fitting, blue spring mod, 6.4 banjo bolts, coolant filter kit, 5” exhaust, etc....
I just watched another video that said you have to take the steering column loose on the driver side. ?? this guy didn’t do that. Is that overkill? Or can I still do it without it? I’m getting ready to do this on my truck. I was under it last night and looked at these and realize where that clunk has been coming from
I did not personally take any steering components loose... only jacked up cab off of frame as high as what was needed... no problems for me have put almost 9k miles on truck since this... no problems yet... but now I’m not sure on different year models (newer or older) than 2005-2007 could possibly be different... but mine is 2006. And I did not take any steering loose. So 2005-2007 should all be the same.
Good job on repair and video!!!!
Put bolt back in middle mount and use hammer and go to town mount will come out mine was rusty and took a while but came out
Did u smack it from the top or from the bottom ? To loosen up?
I may be late in asking a question though here it is: another video from S&B showed the front seat being taken out. Was it any more difficult leaving your front seats in?
No they do not need to come out
How has this brand held up?
Thanks for the video. I have clunk too.
Thanks for watching !
had the exact same problem with my 05. what was the part number for the new middle rubber bushing and piece
that slides up from the bottom
very helpful
What are the part numbers for those center mounts that you got from Ford? TIA
off topic question: what size speakers do you run and where do you have the box set
What year and size are your rims tire size looks nice
ramon rodriguez 20 inch stock lariat f250 wheels off of 2011 f250. With 35” x 12.50 mud tires !
Awesome video thanks!
No problem glad you enjoyed!
Great video. How did you heat the old mounts
Map gas bottle with torch attachment
Hi. Do you remember what size Allen you used to hold the bottom? Looks like it said 12.
Great job
Did you disconnect the steering linkage bar assembly?
Ryan Macfarland no I sure didn’t. I lifted the cab up one side at a time and only jacked up cab as far as I needed to
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH yah I read somewhere that you had to. Just didn't know how to do it or even if I need to. Mine is a 2006 F350. Cab mounts are shot.
Did you experience loud clunking noise like a bowling ball bouncing?
Yes!
Great Video, do you have the part numbers to the bushings you ordered from Ford?
I'm in the process of doing the same thing. However I'm stuck on the front passenger bolt under the battery. The nut is off the bolt but it appears the bolt is also threaded into the metal plate on top of the rubber and it just spins when I try to back the bolt out. Can you tell me how to get a grip on that plate to keep it from spinning?
The front mounts are actually rubber and their design is super hard to remove from the truck without pulling cab from what I’ve read up. I left mine alone since their rubber didn’t need replaced anyway
Removing the front bumper helps a ton for the front mounts if you do want to remove them. I have a video on my channel on removing front bumper as well!
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH Thank you very much for the reply. IF the bumper isn't too big of a job then I just might do that. At the moment there is no way I can get that front one to stop spinning because I cannot get a grip onto it. I'll check out your bumper video. Thanks again. -Scott
Hey your truck is clean. I have an 06 as well. Do you have a lift? I saw your bilstiens in the front. Also, what kind of tires are those?
Yessir it was a 2.5” leveling kit with bilstein shocks. Fury country hunter MT tires
Hey Justin, great video. Do you know if 2005 f250 will be the same as your 2006?
Glen Hale for sure! Absolutley. To my knowledge this is pretty much 2004.5 trucks all the way to 2007!
Did you really need to remove the rear seats? Seems like just pulling the carpet back would allow access to the bolts.
Yessir you cannot get to the middle one without removing back seats. Back seats allow you to fold the carpet up far enough.
Since this vid has some age on it now. How are they holding up? About to do my 07. Always watch your detailed videos!
They age fine cause they’re not foam anymore , they’re like a polymer/ synthetic material so they won’t deteriorate supposedly. They’re holding up great.
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH I will be ordering a set ASAP. Thank you for your reply.
So how have those cab mounts help up over the years? I'm thinking about doing mine and those are a lot cheaper than the s&B set.
I bought a set and they havent held up very well. I'm about 3 years in and they need to be replaced again. I'm going with S and B mounts this time. They cost about 4 times as much but should be good for the life of the truck.
You skipped the very front ones how do u do them
Thanks for posting. On the middle rubber mounts, I thought I'd seen before where folks used a prybar to separate them. Seeing the inside hardware on those was very helpful. On the front mounts, did you have to take the front bumper off to get to the bottom half as it looks like it is Inside the frame?
Imma be honest the front ones are rubber so I didn’t even change them
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH Did you have to loosen them?
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH did u have to loosen them up??
If I just need to replace the rear mounts would I be able to replace just those and not loosen all of the rest
No sadly not cause you have to get it high enough to remove them and replace them with new and you cannot do that without loosing them and jacking the cab up I wouldn’t think.
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH I also just wanna do the cab 6 ones and not the front ones mine r still good do I still have to take or loosen up the front onez?
How to remove a bodymount on 2006 F350 that spins
Where did you get the metal sleeves?
What metal sleeves
You definitely didn't try very hard. As others have stated you can use the bolt and hit it with a 3lb hammer or use a 1/2" extension and hit it with a hammer.
And I used the same bushing kit. All you had to do was cut off the factory busings with a razor. The directions are 50/50 but they tell you enough to get the job done.
Good video...
Where did you get your front fender f250 emblems
i have a video on my channel in detail... on amazon with link also show installing.. called new badges for the f250
How was the ride quality after ?
It’s great
Yes, STAY AWAY FROM DAYSTAR, boy what a mistake that was. I have to take them out because it's like riding a stagecoach and when you get on a dirt road the noise will drive you nuts and the clunking. They're suppose to be universal but they're not. They don't fit good at all. STAY AWAY if you don't wanna have to do this job twice. 😡😠🤬
👍🏿
You didn’t show the fronts… was there even a bushing on the front?
The fronts are actually rubber bushings not foam , so I didn’t even replace them. They were a pain to get to anyway. Just took nuts off so I could lift cab up
How do you separate the mounts from itself, the upper separate from the lower?
Reviewerguy1228 mine just pulled apart using a flat head screw driver
I cut mine then twisted them apart
now that you've got that done next is your factory oil and egr cooler, then you;ll have a truck that will last forever. better invest on some air tools for that one.
Those energy suspension bushings suck! They sqeuak bad. Love ur video but I'll never buy energy suspension again
Do you know the part number
I sure don’t but these seem quiet squeaky now for some reason
Why do Ford bushing have such short life?
All my F350 2012 are gone!
TABOOVSKNOWLEDGE sadly after the 7.3 possibly early early 6.0, they swapped to the “foam” bushings for “better ride characteristics” than rubber... horrible idea. Should’ve just left them rubber. But luckily for you , your 2012 will be even easier to change than mine cause you don’t have to take anything apart on the interior if I’m not mistaken, your bolts go in from the bottom and go straight up into the cab. So if the little clips hold you literally just pull all your bolts, jack up the cab, throw new in and put bolts back thru and done! Saves you $1200+ and gets rid of those rotted cab bushings. Good luck!
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH It's a single cab! bachelor style! Thanks' man, going to help a lot! Now, why the hell are they so expensive?
TABOOVSKNOWLEDGE I purchased energy suspension poly bushings I think they were about 180 bucks. A lot cheaper than OEM replacement. Idk why the OEM are so expensive. Guess that’s ford parts for ya...
past participle
How’s the ride quality?
SouthTexasOutdoors great!
SouthTexasOutdoors no more loud thud when I hit a bump.
JUSTINHAWKSMITH awesome! Thank you man, I just returned my day stars and ordered these! Very helpful man, thanks again
Have you ever watched alf
Thanks for the vid. But P L L E E E E E Z Never, EVER jack up a vehicle like that again !! 🙏
It was only the cab of the vehicle. And only went up about 3 inches. So no harm even if something was to move or scoot and fall. But appreciate you checking it out thanks !
I've watched a bunch of videos on this topic and no one shows the removal and install of front mounts. Y'all talk about it, but then never show it in the video...
already showed it on all the other mounts.. no need to show it so many times. just alot of extensions and jacking it up like any other of the mounts.
@@JUSTINHAWKSMITH The front frame arms around the engine on my 2006 f350 are boxed with the 2 bottom body mounts and washers/sleeves inside the frame with no visible way of removing old or installing new. They are not like the rear 6 which mount to tabs that are welded to the outside of the frame for easy access...
@@deerhunter972 has your cab ever been pulled
@@deerhunter972 You have to remove the front bumper to access them from the front end of the boxed section of the frame.
You can access the top nut through the wheel well..I pulled the plastic back and used an 18mm combo wrench to take off the top nut