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Probably Can't Fix it
United States
Приєднався 2 січ 2022
Trying to learn how to troubleshoot and fix electronic things.
Відео
Nintendo switch wont boot and then would not read games
Переглядів 320Місяць тому
This was a confusing Switch Lite.
Trying to fix a Switch Wont Boot
Переглядів 246Місяць тому
This is a journey into getting a switch out of RCM mode but I did not know that at first.
Repairing an Orbit B-Hyve Automatic Sprinkler Controller- No AC Detected
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Місяць тому
My control unit broke, so I fixed it.
GBA SP Aliexpress Install
Переглядів 732Місяць тому
I wanted to try a cheap shell and IPS mod from AliExpress to see if I could save some money. GBA SP Kit: www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800168965036.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.72e2140fLuVCZW&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa I thought it was good quality and easy to install.
Trying to fix a Nintendo Switch Lite from Ebay
Переглядів 5432 місяці тому
Nice little short video. Royalty Free Music: Bensound.com/royalty-free-music License code: ZFZFLQ8VCDW35OSG
Lenovo Ideapad 500s Trying to Understand the BIOS
Переглядів 2192 місяці тому
I put a lot of stuff in this video in hopes that someone can tell me what I did wrong. This is not a how-to guide because I am still lost; I just understand the tools better.
PSP 3001 Not fully Booting
Переглядів 1752 місяці тому
This console has a partial boot and then turns off.
GBA SP Missing Power Switch and more
Переглядів 6842 місяці тому
Trying to fix a Gameboy Advance SP with multiple faults.
PS5 Part 3 Manipulating the BIOS
Переглядів 2,1 тис.3 місяці тому
I learned how to read and write BIOS in this episode.
Gameboy Advance SP Internittent Power on (Simple Fix)
Переглядів 1183 місяці тому
Gameboy Advance SP Internittent Power on (Simple Fix)
Trying to fix a PS5 Won't Install Update
Переглядів 5613 місяці тому
Trying to fix a PS5 Won't Install Update
Revisit Can I fix 3 PS4s Faulty Southbridge
Переглядів 6024 місяці тому
Revisit Can I fix 3 PS4s Faulty Southbridge
Trying to Fix another Nintendo Switch
Переглядів 6755 місяців тому
Trying to Fix another Nintendo Switch
Atari Part 2 Trying to Understand Audio Circuit
Переглядів 3109 місяців тому
Atari Part 2 Trying to Understand Audio Circuit
Atari HDMI Quest Part 1 Fix the Atari and Probing Audio
Переглядів 699 місяців тому
Atari HDMI Quest Part 1 Fix the Atari and Probing Audio
Thank you
It's been a while since your last video. I am not pushing for another video, I just wanted to say that I hope you are ok.
Doing good, just super busy with work. Going to try and record some videos soon. Thanks for checking in.
@@probablycantfixit6426 It is good to hear that you are ok. I will keep an eye out for future videos.
Thanks my original nintendo gameboy has that same problem I bought another one off ebay it has a working cpu backboard
That is awesome.
with all of the reflowing you did, I'm surprised you didn't try to reflow the emmc. Emmc and ram seem to be the biggest problems with these, when it's not a charging problem...
Thanks so much! My diode was short circuit the wrong way as well. I also happened to have the same 1A, 40V shottkey diode on hand, as you did. Took 5 minutes to fix it. I was just going to buy a power board from ebay, but they don't have them anymore and nobody seems to carry them. I have 2 of these timers. I expect the other one will eventually fail.
My Orbit B-Hyve never worked right. The unit would constantly lose WIFI and it never watered my grass correctly. I also got a "NO AC" fault after several months since purchase. The transformer output is 30 volts but the unit is dead. The old turret worked for 25 years with no issues. What a mistake buying an ORBIT product. Junk. Let me try this...
I hope you get it fixed. It sounds like you have an intermittent problem, which is tricky to figure out. The diode may help but it is hard to say. Let us know if you get it fixed.
GENIUS!! Mine had exactly the same problem and I fixed it by replacing the Schottsky diode. Thanks for making a great video. Let us know if yours stays fixed, and I will as well.
That is awesome. I will update you if it breaks in the future.
This totally worked for me. I even tried finding a new power board on ebay which is no longer available. Thanks a bunch!
Awesome, glad to hear it.
I’m going to order the diode from Amazon. Which one should I get? Thanks!
These should work: www.amazon.com/100-Pieces-1N5819-Schottky-Rectifier/dp/B079KG1TN2/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1W621ZZ56IFK2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.rBj13yxgvFV-ZJI7yhUAGk02FxazEfOqW_iJAYPkyOQx6g1ZIZE2YgXK77wI95pG9zY0gaqr-mg-E77YME_2XmKTnP-W-XGovpez83sQuHD84SDkLqfY96UY8Tj-USndf1SkzrP_-9JHYYVuVtMzlvRhwCHlUX0WJmSA1e92lL_a5E6fEa1DtU6S1rlPg4fLLAVzpzfKW8etoITk8ga3MoShWMhQtpNmg1EByjg3Prs.8jlF0giIN3gMitzFxfcx9CKmt8ur7hjKBstZVaPjDlY&dib_tag=se&keywords=1+amp+60+v+schottky+diode&qid=1716135406&sprefix=1+amp+60+v+shottky+diode%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-11
I had similar problem. Luckily I found this video. Exact same diode like in this video, was showing short when I despise red one leg and tested. Pulled UGP10D diode from on old junk device and replaced. Connected it back and all works great. Thank you so much for such detailed video
You are quite welcome.
ok, listen carefully: there are 5 pairs of test pads that goes from apu to the screen connector. they are located top side left corner of the apu, right side of the emmc, right below the screen connector. there are 5 pairs of golden test pads. you can see if they are connected to the apu by simply check in diode mode. if connected you get a reading and means that the balls are connected from apu to the board. and the problem is elsewhere. my readings for these points are all the same 0.23 you can obviously have slight variation but you need to see a value. if not the apu ball had some issue and is not attached to the board in that specific line
I understand. I will verify when I am finished with work. Thanks for the tip.
Nice try, seemed like it was close to working.
Thank you. I am still trying to get it to work but each time I remove the APU, more solder pads are weakened. This will most likely be my last attempt to get it right.
you didn't check the screen connector. only because you work on the apu it doesn't mean you can exclude a possible damaged connector. you know those are fragile and problematic, especially when you assembly various time in a row. if the console boot is ok and you need to focus on the connector
I have a similar problem, it sounds but no image, need to check the screen conector (or replace it) before to buy a new screen
@@joseramonmartinezmedina1174 you need to check the backlight circuit first. on the lite version are more frequently the problem of "sound but no image" problems
@@RVNR2022 I did, I have backlight but no image
@@joseramonmartinezmedina1174 ok then. Screen connector is the next step
I did replace the screen connector (did not record) as I had that same thought. It did not help the issue.
apu balls size are actually 0.35mm. the stencil say 0.2 only because when used with solderpaste the balls are 0.2mm when they are completely formed. i think...
Ahh, that makes much more sense. I noticed that when I put the .3mm solderballs, they seemed smaller than the balls from solder paste.
Maybe you don't have a cape (SAY NO TO THE CAPE!) but I'm certain that the remainder of your attire is a super hero uniform. I'm getting zero across D2 also. I don't have a replacement on hand, that I know of, but I'm certain that I have the exact same problem.
That is awesome. They are pretty cheap on Amazon, so if you give the diode a try, it might fix the issue. No cape, tattered sweats, 🙂.
I enjoy watching your videos I find them relaxing. Glad you managed to get this one working.
Thanks very much.
Nice fix man.
Thank you.
This is an unpatched console. Interesting that it always goes into RCM mode once it gets power, meaning that AutoRCM was turned on by the original owner. By design, the Switch is only meant to go into RCM if either the operating system fails to load or it's triggered manually by shorting specific pins on the right joy-con rail and holding Volume Up (Switch Hacks Guide has more detail). But as is, it can't boot normally and sits on that black screen until a payload software like Hekate (community-made) is injected. This console can still work, it's not bricked, but not as one that will officialy work on Nintendo's online servers. A working reference, for the electrician, and a clean slate for a software dev.
I think you are right. Previous owner modded it, got it banned, set it to AutoRCM, and then sold it as faulty assuming the buyer would not figure out the problem. I think I am going to learn how to install Atmosphere on it. I bought the Jig that shorts the pins on the right joycon rail so I can get back into RCM mode. Thanks for the comment.
Hello Sir, I'd like to really thank you for your video here. I bought a shottky diode (1A 100V) for 1 euro here in Rome, Italy, and... success!! The diode was indeed the issue and therefore I repaired my B-Hyve successfully thanks to your troubleshooting! A new one costs around 250 euro, and the warranty just expired...so thanks again!!
You are quite welcome, I am glad you were able to fix it.
thanks man. i was thinking that the error code only appears when you try to connect online with the account or a game. this is much simple to see and check
You are welcome. I think you are correct because the reason it fails is due to the fact that it needs to contact Nintendo to remove the old accounts. Since the console is banned, Nintendo refuses the connection. It was an interesting experience though. I suppose I will load atmosphere on it and see what that is all about.
@@probablycantfixit6426 yes, it's interesting to see what the console can do now without connecting to the official servers.
@@RVNR2022 I was able to initialize it by getting into maintenance mode (Power+ vol +/-) and it allowed me to initialize back to factory defaults. I am sure the console will still be banned but it is a start.
@@probablycantfixit6426 so you cannot even reset the console if is banned? what a stupid thing 😆
@@RVNR2022 You can, but you have to do it from the maintenance mode. When I tried to do it while the other peoples account was linked, it would not allow me because it will not connect to the Nintendo network.
Full transparency: I attempted to initialize the console to factory defaults and it told me that it was banned. I am unsure if I am the cause or the previous owner was the cause. Not sure what to do with it.
it's not your fault. the console was certainly modded and i'm sure the owner connected to the online nintendo's servers while the mod was running so nintendo detected it and instant ban it. now it is only an offline console. every online features that a game can have is no longer usable. you can still use it with cartridge games or a software mod to install games and thats it. i'm curious tho to see a picture or a little video of the message. i've never seen a banned nintendo switch before and i'm curious to see it.
it could be worse tho. i've seen a lot of unpatched console with corrupted original firmare because they messed up with the configuration or settings of the software and they finished to have a totally bricked console that nobody can restore. at least you have a working board to use as a reference, for the future, for other faulty consoles.
@@RVNR2022 Yeah, that is true. I just uploaded the error code that I get.
Good Job 👍👍👍
Thank you.
"Probably"... this comment is off topic but I can't help but be curious what your response might be. About the same time my B-Hyve Control Board failed, the control board in our GE Dishwasher (a few years old) also failed. Part nbr "ge265d1462g501mp00". Ordered a new one (a little less than 200 bucks) and installed it. Dishwasher operational again. But when I examined the old board I found that 5 capacitors were kinda 'glued' to whatever component was close. The 'glue' was kinda opaque and I had to gently pry them away. This board lives directly on top. So I am wondering if the heat from the washing process could heat these caps up to the point where the covering melts and glues itself to the nearby component. (And also causes a failure). All that said, and if the heat from the water/steam could be an issue I am thinking... what if I spliced in extensions to all the wires connected to the board and mounted the board in the area under the sink. (Oh... my wife thinks I am crazy!).
From my limited experience, the glue placed on certain components is to prevent loosening from vibration, drop, etc. The times I have removed it, I used a hot air gun to easily scrape it away so I could remove what ever component was faulty. So from that standpoint, the glue is pretty heat resistant but that is not to say, your theory is incorrect. It is definitely possible that prolonged exposure to heat caused the malfunction to begin with. If they are electrolytic caps, then heat definitely affects the capacitance. As to your plan of relocating it, if you don't mind the hassle, I suspect it could prolong the life of the board. To have a backup, I would probe around the defective board with a multimeter and see if I could locate anything suspicious ie. shorts to ground on caps that go to power rails.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Great... thanks for the reply.
@@demiurgiac I just looked up that part number that you provided and I can see the glue you are talking about and it is around some of the electrolytic capacitors and two relays (they may be filters, it is hard to tell). You may have already checked this but if the tops of those capacitors are bulging then you should replace those as the capacitance and ESR are no longer within specs, and wont be able to supply proper voltage. I am sure you have checked all the fuses but if not, I am sure there are some on the board. In any event, it is most likely fixable.
Great video. Was having troubles finding anything about the 80810001 error for the Ps5 and this happened to be the exact fix. Test Panasonic encoder and it was shorted in the same spot and everything.
That is awesome.
4 months ago I published a YT video on how to replace the Power Board which, at the time was 20 bucks and change on eBay. Well, at least I now have a spare board... thanks to you! I don't have your diagnostic skills but I do fool around with electronics as a hobby. So after stumbling across your video I plowed around my parts bins and found a 3amp 40v Shottky diode... swapped it in to the failed board per your instructions and Bingo! Thanks Much!
That is awesome, glad to hear. Perhaps this is a common fault and it will help others.
I am curious if you were to run that timer long term, would that diode fail again? What caused the failure in the first place?
I am unsure. I know that we had a few days when the power repeatedly went out, sometime over the winter. I have ordered the correct component, and it should be good for another three years, :-). I think that I should invest in a small UPS for it, though, to ensure this doesn't happen again.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Thank you for your video and your feedback. I really enjoy your troubleshooting methods. Great learning experience!
@@karlconnolly4211 You are quite welcome and thanks.
1k sub! congratulation😉 i notice that you purchase the ips without the touch sensors. the seller have also a screen kit that doesn't need soldering and have 2 nice touch sensor to regulate brightness and color palette.
Thanks, man. I bought one for a game gear but am afraid to try and install it because I remember the last one was difficult...with instructions. I wasn't sure which one was the best for the SP, so I bought the cheapest lol.
@@probablycantfixit6426no problem. You bought the best anyways from the best seller. I always buy screen kit from them. For the game gear you only need practice. There is a kit that can make the install clean and easy I can send you the link if you want.
👍👍
People lie with such sincerity! 😄 Your videos are delightful and so insightful and inspiriing. Thank you for creating and sharing them with us.
They do, indeed. Thanks very much for the comment.
Sorry don't know how to help with PS5. Just commenting to feed the algorithm.
Thank you very much.
i can think of 3 possibility: 1st hdmi issue. you know that if the hdmi chip is faulty the console can complain about it. 2nd probably a ram or ssd with a broken connection o partial fault? 3rd if the console have really some problem with power failure can be a driver chip not working properly or a stupid resistor blown somewhere that can prevent the syscon and southbridge to have proper communication with the rest of the board. i know i practically said that could be anything. but at least you have something to work with.
Yeah, I thought the same thing. I swapped the HDMI encoder with a known good and got the same problem. I also swapped the 8-phase controller for V-Core, and it is still doing the same thing. I thought about the RAM, but it is Samsung RAM, lol. I now have 3 defective consoles with SK Hynix, Micron, and Samsung RAM, so I can't swap any around. I am still poking around to see if I can learn something.
@@probablycantfixit6426 did you have any error code related to ssd controller when you UART it? it's probably the next candidate at this point. the console can't load anything and the APU froze and give black screen because of this.
@@probablycantfixit6426 and the liquid metal situation? APU DIE situation? check if you can spot any crack or spillage under the protection sticker.
@@RVNR2022 I did check the APU for cracks but did not see anything. I did not remove the foam to inspect the capacitors beneath, but that is a good idea. When I have time I will do that.
Bro please tell me chip name 4501B SCLA W36C on xbox one motherboard or how can i buy it ,There is a capacitor in front and on the right of this chip, and I think there are 4 resistors on the left pls bro help me
Always a pleasure when you post a video.
Thanks very much.
tip: to get a perfectly alligned screen use the metal frame. put the new screen in the metal frame and then come with the front shell from the top
Ahh, I didn't think of that. See, that is why you get paid the big bucks.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Where? where are the big bucks you're talking about? i can't see any... 😅
@@RVNR2022 😀
i think i've see a slight sign of life in the on board screen in the first power on try. i wonder if you have a backlight issue with this laptop or a bad screen edit: yes you have a bas screen. white screen is caused because 3.3v is missing. 3.3v line carry the data for the screen. if it is present and you have a white screen you have a bad screen.
have you check the coils for resistance? first of all i'll check that everything is looking good especially the chipset and cpu circuit. i've seen some of sorin's videos with laptops doing the same. and the cause was a bad cpu or bad chipset. the EC chip is looking good to me. it have the 3.3v and read the power button signal. so it has to be one of these 3: bios, chipset, cpu (did you know for sure the ram is working?) if i'm not wrong the boot process is this: EC chip read the power on signal, than the EC chip read the bios chip, load the firmware and send it to the chipset, than the chipset process the bios information and activate the cpu and graphics. so the first step, as i mentioned previously, is to check the cipset to be sure is good. otherwise the pc will power on but is not processing anything. the second step is to reprogram the bios with a default one downloaded from the official sites.
Yeah, everything is measuring OK, and the computer will boot; it is just very slow. The problem is that Lenovo only releases the UEFI as an executable file designed for use in a Windows environment. I managed to extract the BIOS from the CAP file and pair it with a known good UEFI region, which I had cleared but this did not help. I am still working on the BIOS and finally realized that if I converted the ASCII serial number to hexadecimal and then did a search for the hexadecimal representation of the serial number using the UEFI tool, I could locate the information necessary to change serial, MAC address, etc. The screen is definitely bad, but I still want to fix it to the point I can load Windows, and it functions properly. The key is understanding how to build the correct BIOS which I am still working on. It has been a good learning experience, that is for sure.
This is not a how-to; this is me as confused as a person can be. If anyone can point me in the correct direction to better understand BIOSs, please do.
Can i dwonload the art?
nice fix!
PS5 consoles need the hdmi encoder to boot properly. otherwise it gives you "beep and no power" fault. it's necessary because apparently it have a power line "bridge" for other circuits. power come in the chip and come out to the rest of the circuit. unlike previous generations which could turn on even without an HDMI encoder present on the board
I was confused about it for sure.
You need another 1215a board to scrap parts from
Agreed.
Have you tried downloading the update file again on another flash drive?
I have tried with multiple flash drives, downloaded and re-downloaded the OS, and connected Cat 5 to the console. None of these work.
You need to use uart, why replace all the chips?
Awesome video nonetheless!!
Thanks.
12:26 broken pcb trace 😉
I will pull it back out and check. Thanks.
UMDs are notoriously loud. nothing to worry about from what I hear
I got scared for a minute, LOL.
this is the backup mini battery for data and clock settings. it's not a capacitor. the console use it only if the main battery is drained or not present. i think the original problem was the power switch. they tend to get dirty inside. and if not slide all the way up can cause no power issue. in your case the console switch off after few seconds because the switch was still partially stuck in power on mode and it forcing to shut down... this is what i believe
It is definitely possible that the switch was dirty and of course, that didn't cross my mind. That was a capacitor 3.3V .2F rating. Similar to OG Xbox.
Still working so I believe the capacitor was the fix it needed.
Will you replace the proper calibrated wire?
LOL, yeah, I ordered some fuses and am waiting for them to come in.
good job. i think someone slipped with the screwdriver and hit the legs of the cpu.
Ahh, I didn't think of that. I suspect you are right.