Відео

Much better than the lrp carb

According to reds: Short needle > higher mid to top, long needle higher low to mid. I havent noticed that kind of difference in the power range but long low speed needle carbs are Usually easier to tune. Most people prefer long needles. I like both.

Thank you Robert! Yes its a shame, and now I hear many people complaining about this issue...I am worried

Thank you! ✌️

Thank you! The gt2 is already ready to run again 💥 Redsm5r GT 😯 A very nice engine

Thank you ✌️

I have a reds air boost backplate on my Silver edition SV!!! pretty sure it will fit the maxys. I am going to try to install it right now :) The gt2 gears are 0.8 mod

@@TastyBRC I’m 99% positive it will work :) . Ahh , some Gt are mod 1 like the IGT8 and I thinkkkk Xray Xgt went to or was a mod 1 at some point ..I maybe not be accurate w that one but I know Genius - X-ray based , is also Mod1

Thank you! Yes 120 is perfect, 12% nitro! But.... I was slower.. average lap time 1sec slower. And I think that my tune was perfect. Yes that was the second spur gear.... really sucks I hope it was just a gear mesh issue

C'est effectivement compliqué de régler correctement l entredent, c'est tellement plus facile sur une voiture sans boîte 2... l'entredent de la deuxième est facile à régler mais celui de la première est toujours plus écarté 🫤, je n'est pas d'explication à ça.. sur cette voiture c'est du mod 0.8. Je pense que tu as raison, ça mériterai bien un essai avec un rapport un peu plus long, le comparatif des chronos sera intéressant.

I love it!

Merci à toi! A moins de mettre la voiture sous la fenêtre des voisins, avec le tuyau et le bidon vide tu ne les dérangera pas! Et tout reste propre 👌

Thank you! I dont know anything about 3d printing.. sadly, it would be very usuful in the backyard. Hope to see more videos from you!

Send my a PM with shipping info and I will send you one. My PM is in the description in the dyno video

Thanks for the comment Robert 👍

Same stuff! Slightly better tunability with the stock carb (this one). I just got another hobbytech!! a brand new one from a French subscriber, I will modd it too, I would like to fix that weak bottom end power issue, I wish a had a dyno to compare the before and after modds power :)

Hey Kings, noticable torque difference but that's it. I should have tested with a larger venturi. I will start testing 12% with different offroad engines, if they run as good as my maxys with 12, I will be happy with it, stop mixing fuel and burn my 25% stock just for fun.

Thank you! Yes 25 wins but barely. I made larger holes and now cooling is perfect even with 12. I watched a lot of gt videos and they never open large holes on the shell.. very weird, I am pretty sure that they rather run hot than ruin aerodynamics, how do you open your onroad bodyshells?

@@TastyBRC I understand that formal racers wouldn’t care as much with heat as you and I might. They rebuild or get new engines often so, they wouldn’t care as much to put big holes in the body or have the engine over heat I have had good luck with a front single windshield holes of 45-50mm in diameter (depending on windshield and head size) and the back depends on the style of the body. Some bodies allow for the head to stick out, some don’t so, the cut really depends (as you know) - When I can have a normal rear hole/circle then, I normally go about 6-12mm larger in diameter than the front hole Also, if the body allows for it, I like to keep the back of the body more open (bumper area - cut more of the bumper out) to allow for turbulent air flow to escape easier out the back - At this point in my RC life, I do not cut any of the side windows out. That tends to add turbulence and/or doesn’t seem to add any cooling benefit Just some of my thoughts

I cut the dide Windows for extra airflow but also to refuel, left side window gives acces to fuel tank. How do you refuel?

@@TastyBRC Just depends on the car (location of the fuel tank) and the body design. I do have some bodies that have portions of the windows cut. We just do what we have to do at times but, I try not to use windows if I can help it - Sometimes I can use the front window hole to reach in to fill. I don’t see anything bad on your body and it’s most important to help the engine healthy (keeps our stress level down too lol)

With a piece of lexan, tape inside, decals outside

Thank you ✌️ minimal différence, the hobbytech was a bit easier to tune. Both carbs are very similar, made by force

Agreed! Very good for the price ✌️

Il marche très bien pour le prix et je le sais durable et qualitatif. Le 521 est mieux, plus équilibré le b213 est très creux en bas, en vitesse pure c'est surement très similaire mais le 521 a une meilleure courbe de puissance

@@TastyBRC ouais on l'entend que en bas il galère un peut mais en haut il envois après entre le 521 et le b213il y a une grosse différance de prix. tu conseille quelle ligne pour gommer un peut le manque en bas avec le b213 ?

J ai testé différentes lignes, ma ligne qui me donne le meilleur couple, la 2135, sur la dernière vidéo ne suffit pas à compenser son manque de couple mais ça reste la plus appropriée pour ce moteur.. sur la dernière vidéo je roulais aussi sans venturi. Je vais en recevoir un neuf bientôt, qu'on m'envoie pour être modifié. Je vais essayer d'améliorer le bas régime. Vidéo détaillée à venir ✌️

@@TastyBRC ah cool tu pense qu'avec la venturi sa sera un peut gommé ? hate de voir la vidéo alors

Hey Jeremy! 2 years!!! It happened to me too but we always end up responding to the call of nitro. I use Donuts Racing Oring grease, pretty sure that you will easily find another oring grease brand.

@@TastyBRC life’s crazy man. Can’t wait to run again! And yup, I made a few videos 6-7 months ago but I legitimately have not ran my platforms. Praying my engine bearings aren’t covered in copious amounts of rust and sludge. Probably gonna go with a Moly grease for the o rings. Thanks man 🙏

Hey Sakis, I hope that you are doing well, thanks for stopping by

Thanks Tony, Stock clutch, 3 shoes and 1.2 springs, thicker springs ever, very difficult to install. Looking forward to see you GT!

Thank you!

You are right, Ifmar rules limit the venturi to 7mm! That is certainly the reason why she was not making more speed, as you said. I did not think about that. Next Im going with 8mm or no venturi and remove a head shim. Im not on IG.. messenger 🤙 Thanks for the comme Kawi 👊

@@TastyBRC Give her all the air she can injest!! When you head out to test again bring a couple plugs cooler than you have, I know the Maxy like Picco plugs but I have ran Rp6/Rp7 plugs in the GT1 Picco w great success. This way you have the ability to control ignition. As far as shims go ,you can use the OS R21 .15 shim in conjunction with the Picco ones, this way you can reduce the amount by .05. I did this with my Picco GT1 and it was much angrier, but on low nitro I'm sure you can yank .10 maybe more just read the plug and do go lean and the plug will survive. If you try that, use the Picco shim to be in contact with the button for the best seal and the R21 shim on top....no worries bro I get you a vid of that monster of an engine in time one way or another lol. I'm actually in the process of assembling another tonight to finalize the concept but this time ported backplate, flow mods and lightened crank..no timing changes yet but its already king daddy as it sits. In the event it all works as planned I'll then sprinkle in a bit more timing. Again, when you see it and hear the way it runs you will say to yourself "ooohhhhhh now I get it" lol. Later bro and the rest of the nitro fam

@@TastyBRC Oh I forgot to add, when I was talking about using the OS .15 shim ,I also used a liner shim ...

So colder plug and -.05 head shim, but what about the liner shim you mentioned ?

@@TastyBRC ok , so if you use a liner shim sayyy .20 , in order to keep the compression in check you have to pull .20 from under the button - you already know this but if I want to increase compression and I don’t have. .05 worth I typically install a .20 liner shim and install a .15 , then regear if needed .

Yes, I checked for those air filters but not for the noise reduction but to run in wet conditions. Problème is the price!

Thank you! Its easy, just takes a lot patience..

Hello Kawi, I havent but I will, dusty + 2186 + reds xs manifold.... maybe it will work

@@TastyBRC Heck Yeah it will Jammmm!!!!!! Excited to hear your thoughts on it bec I already know the outcome, shoot you will be able to add some more gear to it mark my word! Later Bro

ua-cam.com/channels/7YvV6y3WlqwqBRGVStdFeg.htmlcommunity?lb=Ugkxr3ggI_Veqcu87xIdkkqNAS2te3gDLwaf

This engine is on a different level, its not just a matter of power but fuel mielage, power delivery. It is a much more advanced engine, check y review video of the ad3 and the xrb, you will see the internals and the timing differences.The AD3 is very linear, some people dont like this kind of engine and prefer a more responsive on the bottom engine like a b2104

Salut, bien que je n'ai pas eu à me plaindre des reds, les avis sur ces moteurs sont mitigés. Je choisirai picco sans hésiter. Le 521 a une architecture très similaire mais le picco est plus travaillé avec des contrepoids sur le vilebrequin, un timing plus élevé. Le 521 est l'entrée de gamme de la marque après tout.

Sworkz gt2

! Difficult question. The lrp overall quality is better (still not great but better than the original sh) Their quality standards are higher. The SH is cheaper and comes with a better carb. Better option : lrp + a decent carb, best spend a few extra $ and get a picco rebel xl if you need a pullstart or a argus 28 for a budget engine, argus k3 budget race engine 👌

The reds pipe is not the most balanced pipe but all my engines run very consistent with this pipe, and the temp is always perfect. It is a top end power pipe so fits the lrp very well as it has tons of torque..

Salut, la ligne prévue par une marque pour un moteur spécifique n'est Jamais obligatoire! La ligne que tu choisira changera forcément la courbe de puissance et cette nouvelle courbe pourra te plaire ou pas. Essaie ta picco elle pourrait très bien te convenir avec l'OS. C'est très rare qu'un moteur ne fonctionne pas avec une bonne ligne d'échappement. Mais ça peut arriver. Je roule reds et hipex sur mes OS, je n'ai pas une seule ligne OS

@@TastyBRC ah ok, merci à toi. Je vais tester alors

B21!

Thank you Texas 🙏

Thank you ✌️

Salut, envoie moi une vidéo sur messenger que je puisse me faire une idée de ce qui ne va pas sur ce moteur! (Tastee Brc)

@@TastyBRC Merci. Je vais essayer de passer au circuit ce week-end. Si j'y arrive je te fais une vidéo.

Salut Hervé👊

Exactly, thats the way I prime the engine. Try!

2 gallons its basically new! i am not surprised by the pinch. A regular force will have much less pinch as its a rtr engine, my f4.6 has less than half that pinch and ran only about a gallon.. but this is definitely a (entry level) race quality engine

@@TastyBRC interesting

Thank you Tony!!

Nitro content is restricted in some European countries. 16% is the highest in some.

@@VacantPixel yes I heard that. Does that mean you can not import higher content . 16% would be better. I never heard of 12 in a buggy.

@@neontetra1000 16% by weight is the only fuel allowed in Europe. 16% by weight (of nitro in the fuel mixture) equals 12% by volume... (nitro is heavier than methanol and oil) that is why I call this fuel 12%, the previous 16% nitro fuel, was 16% by Volume! wich equals more or less 20% by weight, that one is banned.

Interesting thought

Easy tune with a new plug, sometimes you spend hours trying to tune a finicky engine and the solution to the problem is simple, a glow plug, a faulty bearing, or a fuel line

When the rear bearing is done it sounds like a grinding noise, pay attention you will hear it, you can also check my reds r5r video, the sound was way worst and at that point it will damage the internals

Sometimes the mysteries of nitro are impossible to elucidate 😆