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@@johnalleneteveswe147 are you able to reach out to my Instagram so I can explain in detail. It's listed on all my videos in social "hondaland88"

Sorry for the confusion. In this video I'm demonstrating how you can set up a secondary set of maps to essentially turn the popcorn off on the fly. In this scenario when you're activating the secondary maps it's taking off the ignition table retard that causes the popping. The parameters are still the same though. This means fuel cut is still disabled and it's still dumping fuel when you're decelerating. The best way to truly have a popcorn mode on and popcorn mode off is to use two timer which is where your chip has two separate tunes allowing it to have a whole set of different parameters as well. Versus just secondary fuel and ignition maps.

P72 obd1

Sorry for the late reply but I'm not currently working on ECU's at the moment you will have to hit up one of the great people such as Jason Waters tuning or Jamie Owens at Boosted NW. HA Motorsports as a third.

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4300 / 9300

I personally love my Demon II. Those are discontinued now so you can only find them in the markets now. But they are the closest to hondata without being it. Mainly due to the on board datalogging. A feature some don't want to disconnect from. Most tuners love this feature because it's recording during pulls and they can go back and look when there's an error. Yes you can log with a wire or wirelessly and just use a chip. Just take the laptop with you on each trip. Did many cars like this with a chip and burner and datalogger. It's only easier from there getting a emulator that has a logger built in like cobra and the others. That way you can change values while you log. I'd recommend starting from a base map. If you're used to making changes you will be able to hone in a map in no time with the air fuel table and the suggested changes it offers when setting up a command table. Just like hondata does

@@hondaland_ Appreciate the response. Yes I'd start with a basemap and tune on the fly. I am going to learn tuning on my stock D16Y7 then apply what I learned to my B16 I built.

@@JohnSmith-uz3zj very nice. Love my b16

Same mount only one that changes is that transmission mount all others are shared between auto and manual / b series

Gracie is the best kittie. Glad my video could help. Feel free to dm on Instagram if you have any questions. Hondaland88

You have to have it put out a good amount of fuel and you have to configure the map to make a pop before it dumps It's a little tricky

The Bluetooth is only for data logging so it will replace the hulog if you want one single cable. But the ostrich has to plugged in for realtime changes to be made. The only unit that offers Bluetooth everything (so datalogger and Real Time Changes) is Hondata s300. Cable is always going to be a cleaner signal and no packet loss. You can use a USB hub for your hulog and ostrich to be one cable as a hack as well.

Thanks for that! I definitely know that my video creating abilities were lacking back then and you had to stick it out through the videos to learn what you needed to but I tried to cover all the things that were very hard to find within the internet especially with people wanting to gate keep knowledge and sometimes only due to a bad attitude. I found even making a whole different account with a different name and profile picture I could trick the same person being mean to me into providing me the info that I needed through a question. So anytime I ran into a situation where it was really hard to figure something out, and then at the same time run into a bunch of grumpy people not wanting to share the simple answer. Once I learned it I tried to set it up into a video. I just never got to get to the turbo content yet due to life but soon I will get there!

@@hondaland_ I'm in fort Worth area too check out my HTS 2 step videos 👹🔥🔥I'm a noob with editing but I've got content and more to come too just rewatched one of your videos while I was going through a tune on my CRV and I appreciated the knowledge and wanted to say thank you my ninja🤙🤙

@@GoldenEraHondaProduceGarage nice! I like the Odyssey flames

Glad I could be of service to you 🫡

You will have to convert to obd1. pm5, pm6, pr3, pr4, pw0 - are the obd0 computers you can chip. HTS doesn't support obd0 from what I know. If so it may be upon request. TurboEDIT is the program for obd0. If you want to use HTS you have to upgrade to multipoint injection and then upgrade to obd1. Then aquire one of the many obd1 ECU's. p05, p06, p28, p30, p73, p75 Socket the ECU and use an emulator or chip burner. If you want to use obd0 and turboEDIT then you need to still convert to multipoint injection and aquire a multipoint ECU that accepts a secondary program chip. You would need to socket the ECU for a chip and have access to a burner for said chips. Emulator for obd0 will probably be ostrich

What do you have for a burner?

@@hondaland_ A Moates AutoProm.

Awesome glad you got it going! Great work at being resourceful!

Type t r map. Not to run, but to start and get moving. Dial back timing

What do u mean by dial bacl the timing im ok with ajusting the fuel bit timing is scary

@@Jones9798 retarded timing is safest practice. So you can take a few percent off the top to be on the safer side if things feel okay and your not pinning you can raise them back up. But it's more or less to take out any sharp changes in timing that may exist from the stock type r map on HTS

Base maps should really be called startup maps because a lot of people feel like they are exact copies of the engines that are labeled on the map which is a misconception because they are only something that is merely close to it. It sounds like you simply need to highlight the whole fuel table and add about 5 to 10% to get your air fuel ratios closer to 14. 15 at idle isn't bad and even when cruising. It's whenever you are full throttle wanting as much power from the motor as it can produce that you don't want to see lean conditions because they are a hotter burn. When barely burning AKA the throttle blade is barely open. Idling or cruising. This can be managed with the thermostat of the coolant and so on. But if you're not able to take it to someone you're going to have to simply add fuel because it's better to be a little extra vs not enough. Now you don't want like to put the motor in the 11s or 10 air fuel ratio just cruising around because then you can end up washing your cylinders by dumping too much fuel. So in this particular scenario I would simply add 5 to 10% or maybe even just 1% at a time to the whole map and then watch your airfuel ratios. FYI: don't be that guy tuning on a narrow band either. Make sure you are using a wide band. Narrow bands are only used during cruising and at idle and do not report a correct airfuel ratio to tune on.

Feel free to find me on one of my many social medias listed in the description under every video. Instagram seems to be the easiest to get to me hondaland88

YW

You would need to input dead times for any injectors not preset to the program which in reality is just them having the dead times for those injectors already. I'd recommend getting something you know the numbers of if possible. From what I know you just put it on 750s for those injectors

That is correct you can have the parts installed and they will remain dormant until the tune is updated to activate them

Original ECU can be used but you have to open it and remove one resistor with a pair of snips and it turns it into a manual ECU

ECU has to have power but the engine does not have to be running. If you are using that particular device you may need to add more time out to the serial connection in the settings and I strongly recommend double checking your port settings to make sure they are set to run at the right speeds. When changing all of these settings you may need to restart your laptop just so everything is in line. Some laptops and Windows 10 on those laptops acts weird with the USB ports and HTS but I've personally learned that it is due to the device used within the ECU as once I swapped over to devices such as Cobra or demon I've never had a connection issue ever again but when using very cheap hardware it will time out all the time

@@hondaland_ I'll try the reboot it's doing the same thing in bmtunes

@@heyeddiefixthis7308 lol at your user name. I already know why it's like that haha. You must fix everything for everyone like me! Don't be afraid to try different USB ports. Also note that if it is a ARM CPU equiped windows machine vs Intel or AMD it will not be support on ARM architecture. The frame works mess up. Another thing to note is to have the most recent version of windows .NET framework on the machine as well

@hondaland9564 shits annoying lol i can't get it to log no matter what I don't understand I just put it back together fucking thing is temperamental

@@heyeddiefixthis7308 sadly that is a theme with BM. Everything I've purchased from them has always had problems and or broken and they leave you on read if it is an RMA. Looking at the BMulator it appears to be a reverse engineered cobraRTP unit that used wires to connect to the cn2 port. 1. Confirm your actually running a tune and not in limp mode. This can be done by turning the key to position 2 "lights on the dash" "engine off" press the pedal to the floor. You should get a solid check engine light. This is how codes are checked over HTS. And verifies the tune is running. 2. Make sure your two data log wires are not backwards. 3. Still won't work? Maybe try another data logger on the side of needed but you may need to confirm it is indeed running an HTS or BM tune on the emulator or data logging will not work. 4. Make sure your data logging resistors removed. If this is a USA ECU it is j12 it is a Japan one it's another number I don't have on hand but can be found online quite easily. Rectangle ECU is USA. Square is JDM

Meeeee

You will need to use HTS VIP which is the paid version. Paid version connects to the ECU over the OBD2 port. I will paste a link to the Facebook group that can help you. I do not have HTS VIP to help with your year CRV I am sorry... facebook.com/groups/2030595640557116/?ref=share

@@hondaland_

@@hondaland_ thanks bro

Correct once paired it will have com ports for "Bluetooth serial"

Feel free to contact me on Instagram. Links in bio

You will want to buy ectune

@@hondaland_ I got it all setup thank you brother 🙏 I made a video on my channel and mentioned you 🤘 thanks again.

@@ZT_Performance just watched it. Thank you brotha. All this activity just may make me start making videos again. Kind of hit a wall on life

@@hondaland_ oh man I feel that. I'm litterly in the same boat 🤣 I'm going to start recording all the shit I do with my cars and all the hoonin. Might as well right 😁 Less build these channels 💪

@@ZT_Performance yessir. I had the world of crypto take over me and then I took over it and the cars have been chillin waiting for winter builds. I'll be more active the colder it gets lol

Yup most just call it a p28 coverstion. This was my original Integras LS ECU. What I had running it before was a p28 that had the factory uv chip in the chip location. One day it stopped operation of the fuel pump so I added VTEC to my p75 backup ECU here.