Відео

not that i know of

then i would restart the process. seems like it didn’t work right for you.

Sorry, I just read the comments further and saw that you did not torque the bolts. I have done the oil pan and didn't torque those and no leaks so far.

@@samtheman1957 Good job! I would just tighten them down as best you can if that’s what you did. Doesn’t need to be super tight just tight enough. Hope this helps.

@@how2foryoudiy Just wanted to say thanks again, finished the job earlier today, with no leaks, and tensioned with 3/8 drive regular ratchet and a long extension. MUCH smoother shifting, and also cleaned MAF and throttle body! I used a small amount of weatherstri adhesive to hold the gasket and it worked like a charm. Enough for one day!

Yep

only for 4th gen toyota rav4 2013-2018

I apologize my camera wasn’t working well that day. But yes, this is a diy job. It takes a bit more work than let’s say your standard oil change but you can do it if you follow these steps. Not worth $300 imo.

So let me first say, they are aftermarket parts. That being said, they stay on all the time and there’s no way to adjust them with the headlights or be dimmed. I’m actually going to make another video soon about some issues I’ve been having with them. They work fine overall, but since they’re not OEM there’s little you as the consumer can do about it. Follow my channel for a more updated video on these soon. There could be another manufacturer that make these with to be dimmed or on & off with the car’s lights but I haven’t found one yet. Very few out there. So for me, them staying on and not dimming isn’t really a problem. But if it is for you, I understand. For me, the problem is that within 2-3 months after I installed the parts, I noticed that the window lock up/down switch would not engage. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t. This problem is still ongoing. The other problem is that when you push the auto up/down switch for any switch other than the drivers window, it would dim the aftermarket light for the handle that I also installed and coupled together. You can remedy this by slightly pulling up or down after the auto push of the window switch. This is also still ongoing and I think maybe the two parts just aren’t communicating with each other. The third and final one is that sometimes the auto up/down switch can be finicky when you press it, the window will either not go down all the way, up all the way, or it may go down and then quickly go back up. This one really upsets me and is still ongoing. To be honest, I’ve never really reached out to the manufacturer because I hear so many horror stories about how there’s no customer service for these kind of companies and imo it’s just cheap aftermarket Chinese junk. I’ll keep them on my car until let’s say maybe one day they do just end up failing. They still do their job, kinda, but they’re never gonna be a good solid, reliable part like an OEM made in Japan. It just never will. I hope this helps and hope this doesn’t happen for you. But if it does, please keep me posted on what you find and try to do with fixing it.

Wakarimasen

You are welcome! So glad it helped!

So your SD Card is missing or when you load it into your car it does not have the navigation? I would suggest replacing it if that’s the case.

Awesome! So glad you like it! The seat is also a Specialized - The Cup Gel: www.specialized.com/us/en/the-cup-gel/p/174229?color=278380-174229&searchText=27320-0550

i don’t see why not and try it out

@how2foryoudiy but you know How i do It?

@@Swittzu if you want to copy one sd card to another you first need a computer and a hard drive or some type of external drive to load the files from the sd card onto. then just copy one to another.

I agree. Those retainer clips, if that’s what you’re talking about, are almost impossible to get back once they’ve been pushed in. I actually made a video on that - ua-cam.com/video/chiWoqpRaRg/v-deo.html You can get a metal clothes hanger with a bit of double sided tape attached to it and pray that you’ll get it out, but basically if it’s stuck in there then good luck! As for the quality, yeah it’s not great, as you saw I had to change out the fuse and my light also does kinda flicker when the door almost closes. That’s aftermarket quality for ya. It’s never gonna be like OEM.

I would try restarting the process over. If the screen continues to not come back on then there’s some sort of electrical issue, or maybe the update messed something up it’s hard to say. You might also see about taking it to the dealership to see if your car is still under warranty and maybe they can fix it. I’ve never heard of that happening but I’m sorry it’s happened to you.

@@how2foryoudiy okay. I appreciate ur response. We’ll be trying to replace it into carplay. Hope it works. Thank you

Hold the power button for 10 seconds to force a reboot and try the update again

@@chadhardy6058 already tried this but didn’t work.

@@betinamatias4207Hi sorry for the delayed response, something similar happened to me and I disconnected the battery let it sit for 10 minutes and reconected it again. It reset the car’s computer and the stereo. Sorry if this is hard to understand english isn’t my first language.

No problem! Glad to help!

Nu Finish is best but any sort of coating on the blades will help to prevent noise. Also going to make a video on this soon, but wiping down blades with WD-40 can help prevent streaks and give longevity to the wiper blades. Definitely give that a shot.

A drain and refill is not the same as a flush. A flush is cleaning out all of the transmission fluid, dirt, debris etc that is in your transmission. It takes a certain type of high level machine that only some mechanics have. Some of those things in your transmission (like older fluids and debris) are actually necessary for your transmission to not slip (keeps friction). That’s why when you hear about people doing a flush and they drive their car again it starts to slip instead of operating normally. Only drain and refill. Meaning, what I’ve done in this video - let old fluid out and then fill new fluid back in. I’m not really sure what you mean about what I used to keep the gasket secure from moving during reinstall but I just installed the new gasket to the pan and then attached it back and it was secure. Hopefully that explains things for you.

@@how2foryoudiy ok so a flush is probably the vacuum system they offer at Jiffy lube, Valvoline oil shops. And about the gasket, I thought many you need a special hot glue to secure gasket in place. Thank you for your reply. And if you have any other useful tips please comment them:)

@@22cecegirl Most likely. Just don’t do it. Only drain and refill. Most good mechanics know this. As for the gasket, no glue. Thank you.

No problem!

A drain and refill. Do not do a flush. I would highly recommend changing the gasket and filter since you’re doing all that work anyways. I would just recommend following the steps like this video, all of them are important and necessary.

Which jack point exactly? Front, back, side? It should be there.

@@how2foryoudiy for front

Have not heard that this is possible. Welcome to give it a try to see then lmk. I figure they make it this way because they want you to pay ofc.

This isn't how to update it. This is how to replace it. To update it you put the sd card I to a computer and use the app on the SD card to download the update.

Yes, at some point you need to change the thermostat but when doing a normal coolant change this is not necessary unless something is broken or you noticed your engine is continuing to overheat.

It's Toyota. As long as you replace coolant interval correctly, thermostat will last really long.

So glad it helped!

You do not need to change the thermostat when changing the coolant. Unless your thermostat is broken or something’s wrong I have not heard of needing to change it during a coolant change.

Yes. Both can use the Valvoline SAE 75W-90 that I talk about at 4:08

So glad this video has helped you!

No problem! Glad to help.

Well right off the bat, I would say that if you’ve made all your connections correctly, and it’s your third time buying this product from that specific manufacturer then I would just not buy from them. Sounds like a manufacturing defect. First of all, you’re sure you made all the right connections? And second, why not try buying from the link that I provided: cartrimhome.com/Power-Window-Switch-Auto-Down-Up-for-Toyota-RAV4-2013-2018-LHD?search=Rav4

but i didn’t :)

Sorry it happened to you but hopefully the video was helpful!

Thanks so much. I believe the part number is PT278-42151 but I would always check Toyota online for the OEM part number: autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/roof-rack-cross-bars-pt27842151?driveline=AWD%202.5L%204-Cyl.%206AT&grade=Platinum%205Dr.&series_name=RAV4&model_year=2017&model_year_code=2017:4476

Good question but I’m showing these jacking points (including the rear side) to show you how to jack up the car in different ways. So, yes, if you choose to use the pinch weld location for jacking points you need to place a jack stand near the jack point after to support the car. I have not seem damage to the pinch welds. They are very strong and designed to take the load. Hope this helps.

lol no kidding