Відео

Indeed, the good news being at least it's a cheap fix. I nearly went to the straight to skip option before discovering actually how fixable a thing this is!! Hate to think the amount that have made it to landfill on the basis of a glob of tomato on the fancy cardboard.

Thanks for the insight. Yes, they're such a classic little piece of kit. Proof positive that in a world of cheap tat and conspicuous consumption you can still buy quality things made in europe for a relatively small amount of money.

Apologies. Hadn't noticed that. Should definitely be silicone grease. Stuff marketed for plumbers is readily available.

Ta for the comment but would differ on that one. For a raincoat absolutely but not a shelter. A lot of quality tents, MSR Hubba, Big Agnes copper spur have sub 2000mm HH. I think the context of use is important so wouldn't worry too much about that for a sub £30 emergency or lunch shelter.

Hi Stewart, no there are many many different sizes which is one reason why it is difficult to find the right size replacements.

Fair does you are right. I have not had to replace that one for some reason and didn't include as can't vouch for size. Small O-rings are pretty hard to measure accurately with calipers as the size differences are so small but the bottle one less so. There are some references scattered around the web so tried some of those to find what worked. A suggestions for the bottle o ring is size 213 which is outside diameter of 1.199 or 30.45mm and 0.139 cross section. not got my pump to hand as away from home this week but will sense check that.

Not had noticeable issues here but given the nature of the mechanism to push the cards in a fanned fashion I would think possible especially with non standard card thicknesses. Not something have found a concern though within life of my bank cards.

Not much. Maybe try accessing through the top with the throttle plate opened. Would certainly not want to grip too hard with the pliers to avoid damaging the brass .

Not sure how accurate these things are but that is pretty thin so would try 1/min first.

Yeah to be honest these little carbs are really just a collection of brass bits with various holes, jets etc. if you take it apart, clean it up and reassemble without damaging it you should be good. There is probably a specific terminology for each part but not quite like a classic car carb am more used to.

I couldn't say for sure and wouldn't want to open myself up to guarantees. However the vapour pressure of 60/40 versus 70/30 is going to be something like 10% higher at normal temps. Given the operating range of temperatures the canister is designed for will almost certainly have some leeway I suspect you would be fine with a canister in good condition but would have to make your own judgement. A check on the gross weight of the canisters will give an idea on how much steel is in them. I.e. are the 60/40 built heavier.

@@bigskies2202 Thanks for your reply. No worries, I wouldn't hold you to anything 👍 Strangely the 60/40 gross weight is 351g whereas the 70/30 one is 381g. I'm in Scotland so it's likely I wouldn't be subjecting it to relatively high temperatures. The 70/30 cannister I'd be refilling is practically brand new, I purchased it last year. I think I'll give it a shot but maybe only try filling the 70/30 cannister to approximately 80% the first time. Thanks again for your response 👍

Glad to hear it. Yes I found it surprisingly difficult to find the info!

@@bigskies2202 Thanks again I already got them in the mail this morning, perfect fit. I put two new o-rings in and the stove is like new. I Found a website in the Netherlands where you could even order one single ring if you wanted to. The small size was €0.13 and the bigger one €0.19 a piece the postage was minimal as they fitted a regular envelope.

Is there an easy way to clean the filter? Just rinse with water? Or can they be found cheap? As one comes with the kit.

Ha. I Know the feeling after setting fire to my feet. Glad to help.

Thanks Chris. Agree, super dependable.

Thanks. No problems. As said I'm not a pro but firmly in the tools I would save first if the shed was on fire category.

Thanks @daveys. Great to hear about the usage from someone who has put these to the test in an MR team.

Nice review, thanks

Good tips thanks @TheWhiteleather.

Thanks @thedoctor8381. Will add a note to that effect to the description. These are complex little carbs versus something like an SU on a classic car and there seems to be little info online. But a total stripdown and clean certainly seems to make the difference.

You're welcome. I feel the pain!

😂😂😂

Thanks Brendon, nice to hear positive reviews from people who use them in a professional capacity.

Has to be said, yet to find a better sock than wool!

Good luck Sammi 💪

In the UK so a badger is the closest we get. It held it's own!! 💪

Hi James, yeah saw that link a while back. To be honest, as a lot of the comments say, the review misunderstands the point of the product. Luke would have been in far worse condition for 3 hrs outside the shelter than in. Mountain rescue teams carry and use these all of the time in the UK for good reason.

couldn't you just prop up a corner (small prop up) to let in more air to cut down on condensation??? i have seen these in windy conditions and i can not see how condensation would be a problem in high or low winds???

@@stuartaminion511 I think it needs much better venting at the top to allow the moist air to escape just like on any tent. Opening at the bottom might promote air flow, but the humid air can't get out that way. And cold air may blow in (unlikely to have a cold sump or snow wall around it). Perhaps several mesh sections with covered vents near the top, but then the vents need to be kept open which is difficult and allows rain in - like in Luke's review. It seems basically the same as taking refuge in a large plastic bag. I wonder if a proper bivvy bag with a warm liner - ideally a sleeping bag - would work better for such a situation? Might be worth looking around at what others use to reduce condensation when 'battened down' for awhile.

@@bigskies2202 Thanks. Interesting. I guess it depends how long they keep someone inside it. If for a short time until say a chopper arrived or the casualty could be moved then maybe OK, but if you were trapped in an alpine area with a blizzard and you needed emergency protection for an hour or more then this isn't going to do the job. I agree that you would be worse off exposed, but only up to a point. Once the condensation builds up and you need to move around or lie down, you really need to get out of that at the microclimate it creates is just as bad, but without the direct wind chill. There must be some better survival/rescue shelter out there which ticks more boxes, but I guess then you are really looking at an alpine hiking tent almost.

It's a good debate, thanks James. Yes a lot of the venting issues are solvable IMO. Lifting the sides up a foot and giving it a waft will remove stale air. Would be an interesting design project to engineer a better ventilated version or make a few adaptions. Maybe will have a play with that this winter and run some tests. If you want a comparably lightweight way to shelter multiple people and potentially a casualty only other option seems to be a tarp which loses most of the practicalility, ease of setup and added value of the bothy.

Yeah the number 5 is such a handy little tool to have in the pocket day to day. As you say for all those little tasks non locking is fine.

Thanks. I have definitely been very happy with mine. The weak spot after some years is the note sleeve plastic and also the glue for the cardholder but both of these are easily remedied.

Sadly not. The way it works is heat exchange, it doesn't create any new heat energy as with a resistive heater. So one side pumps out hot air. The vent cold.

Thanks@@bigskies2202

Yeah it's a solid little beast.

Probably depends a bit on the specific part. Machine mart and some.other retailer sell a few bits. eBay is probably a reasonable place to spot a few more either new or from broken units.

Hi jay, hoping to pop down at the weekend. Will take a couple of photos.

@NYGOLD a very good point. I like the thinking and certainly hope to get a lot more life out of her yet. As you say maybe one for a future post. Also have a seized Heuer stopwatch that was my grandfather's that hoping to attempt to fix as the next watchy project!