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Great stuff Rob! Any questions, you know where I am ;-)

@@stringdoctor6238 Cheers Jon! Heidi's loving the new Technifibre string👍👍

@@TactileRacquetPerformance I think you can use without the stand. It has a flat base and some stoppers which weren't needed when putting together with the stand. I haven't tried this yet but will check it out!!! Re. V2's, they're great rackets. Glad you like them!

Excellent! Sounds like it might be. If so, it'll be a top contender for my next machine

@@yung1523 hi there, I will do a video the next time I get one in. I occasionally string Yow's rackets when he's back in the UK, so maybe next time I get his, I'll record it!

@@좋은세상-e4b hi, the best tension range for this racket, I think, is 22lbs (power) to 27lbs (control). That is my choice but some people may like different tension. 24lbs is what I play with.

@@level27xrock it's a really good machine. I've strung quite a few rackets on it now, having spend the last 3.5 years on my Baiardo L. Took a little bit of getting used to but flying now. Rails and clamps excellent and puller very smooth!

Awesome! Glad to hear it. I know you experienced my problem on the Baiardo with doing Racketball rackets and the posts and billiards not always being able to fully mount and touch the frame at the very top or the very bottom since the Baiardo towers are not adjustable, is this no longer a problem on this machine? It is why I switched to the current Head machine, I've been meaning to make a video on it too

@@level27xrock plenty of reach on this machine. One of the longest heads in racketball is the head radical (they do a few other similar wave pattern rackets with hidden grommets too), and this one easily mounted with room to spare.

Love it!

Not on this machine. Most of the latest top end machines don't have curved rails. Babolat machines obviously do but the top of the range Yonex, Wilson and Tecnifibre machines don't.

@@antonyharkin2010 hey Antony, if you go directly to the Parnell Knot website, they ship to the UK.

@@antonyharkin2010 ps. Many thanks for the comments 😀

@@stringdoctor6238thanks!! I'm also looking to get some better fixed clamps, what would you recommend?

@@swbrim Hi Scott, as you say, there are trade off's but this is a method that's worked well for me and as long as good care and attention are given to the strings then it's fine doing it this way. One of the reasons for allowing the final 3 crosses to be done with the remaining short side string is to ensure as little tension slip on the last short side main as possible, which is more likely with only one cross being made after coming down the last short side main. But these are fairly minor points and funnily enough on the Dunlop revelation 125's with the slots on the bumpers/side strips, I do it the way you've mentioned, to ensure there are no strings left exposed outside the slots. Key thing is to just ensure the crosses are head to throat.

It depends how much stringing you do. Also worth noting that second hand machines hold their value pretty well, so there's always a decent chunk to put towards it from the sale of the old machine.

@@benlaw277 yeah, the trend is definitely lower now, with 24/25 being fairly common

@@heathdonnelly7501 thanks Heath. I'm certainly not a pro UA-camr but like to do what I can!

@@badmintontuneup good call out. Yes, will see what I can do.

@@dontmesswiththecricketfreak head Revolution. Colour really pops out!

@@A.Tim3 funny you should mention that as I did a couple of badminton rackets last night on mine and, yes, the plastic adapters are tight to remove and flip over. I have a feeling that this will get easier once they're used more though. Little tip, I used the thin end of a spoon handle to gently prize it open a bit then it made it much easier to remove.

@@stringdoctor6238 did you manage to get the supports to be flush with the arm because right now I have slight gaps between the arm and the supports, I thought of sanding down the tips that join so it goes in more easily so it’s not so tight to make it flush but right now there is a gap

@@stringdoctor6238did you manage to get the support flush with the arm because I’m putting a lot of force into it and there’s still a slight gap between the arm and support I’m considering sanding down the tips that connect to make a smoother fit and hopefully make it more flush

@@nellynelson965 this machine will be roughly the same cost I believe. I'll record some videos of stringing rackets on the new TF machine, so you can see what it looks like in real life!

@@prim0pyr0 ha ha, yes indeed. Will see if he switches back again as there's a huge difference in how the two patterns play. Personally I think it could be good for him to have both options in his bag, with the fan pattern being good to use in hotter, bouncier courts for more control.

@@simondennis101 it's not cheap, but TF looked after me a little with it.

@@kgwilliams6808 will record a stringing session on it soon!

Correct. But never used to actually pull the knot!

@@antonyharkin2010 hi Antony, if you use the same principles as the Farag video I did, this will work. You just need to keep an eye on where the top tie off is done and adjust which side you want as your long/short side. Also, instead of coming up the final main ok the long side, do 2 more crosses before you come up. This should leave only 1 cross to do from the short side string. This will keep the string in the notches perfectly. Just pull a bit more string through on the long side to compensate.

Thanks for the help! I will take a look at your Farag video and see how I get on :)).

I have now mastered this thanks to you! Thanks again 🙌. I can definitely see the benefit of using the ATW method for all racket where possible. Legend 👊

@antonyharkin2010 that's great. Really happy to hear 👌👌👌

@@stuartpreston8173 my Pleasure. It's a great machine! I'm actually going to be receiving the new Tecnifibre X-Cord machine very soon, so I'll review that one too.

It really depends. With squash, I very rarely tie off on a main - I will either use the short side for a couple of extra crosses at the top - to keep the last mains tensioned evenly (if so, will add an extra 10% and pull through any tension loss) or I will use an ATW pattern which doesn't require main string tie offs. One thing I would note is that, in squash, it's not always a bad thing to leave a little tension off at the top cross. This allows a kittle more cushioning for hits off the wall - less chance of string breakage at the head from shots close to the wall. Tennis though... always add minimum 10% - 20% on last mains/crosses before tie off. Much more tension loss and also no need to protect against wall shots (aside from the odd shank).

Thanks for getting back to me and this is very helpful. I Re String a lot of Racketball Rackets (mainly Head & Karakal Rackets), as Racketball is very popular at my club, hence why i use the two piece stringing method for these Racketball Rackets. Would you recommend adding 10% onto both main tension pulls before tying off on a Racketball Racket? Or just normal tension for the last main?

@@antonyharkin2010 on a two piece then yes, especially on the mains and when you have higher tension and a less dense string bed (compared to squash).

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for clarifying!

Hi Rik, that's very kind of you to say. I think 305 and Biphase go well with it baby racket, but I suspect that Biphase 1.18 at around 22lbs will be amazing in this racket, as will 305 1.10 at about 24lbs (might not break as easily as in some frames due to the close string pattern). I'll have to test when I have chance!

Short side will finish crosses at the throat, yes.

Ok. Cool. So obviously you pulled enough to cover that. Thanks for the quick response!

@jamesr.cookejr.5168 yep, only a little extra though (so about 8 head lengths worth on the short side).

Perfect. Thanks again.

Would normally do this racket at 30lbs (smaller head, with denser string pattern than most RB rackets).

5lbs is a lot of extra. If 10 - 15lbs this could break the frame. Recommended 'extra' tension if you do use extra tension before tying off is 10% on squash rackets - so around 2.5lbs. Tennis you will sometimes go up to 20% (about 10lbs) as tennis frames are stronger. The dead feeling you get is likely because you've put too much tension through the string.

Yes, sound could be a little clearer. It's ok on most videos but could definitely improve on the sound. The short side is the side which has the shortest length of string use and is typically only for main strings on that side (and sometimes a few crosses). The other length of string does the mains on the other side plus the majority of the crosses. I generally measure 5 and a little bit full arm spans of string to be able to string a racket of this size. I'm 6ft 1 with long arms, so you may need to adjust. I measure with racket head lengths for the short side, plus a little extra and the rest of the string will be long enough to compete the rest. The reason for tying off at the throat first is due to having both clamps available for security. Always best to have two clamps in use in case one slips and to keep best tension. To tie off at the head first, you would need to use one of the clamps. Plus, it's more efficient to tie off at the throat first as you are already there. Hope that helps, Jon

​@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for the reply. One more question if you don't mind- Even after stringing your way, on a machine similar to your's (Wilson) the racket has come out narrower in width and taller by about 3mm compared to a factory strung racket. Is the factory using a different machine that might be clamping the racket from inside the frame widthwise, and does such a machine exist? To resolve the reduction in width, after tensioning the main strings, I am thinking of relaxing the top/bottom clamps, then relaxing the width clamp so the frame expands widthwise. Then on tensioning the cross strings the frame should revert to unstrung shape. This is how we used to string in the pre machine era 30-35 years back! I realize this may put the frame under uneven stress. Kindly advise if there is a better way, or should we just accept a minor change in shape? Also a tip- for Carboflex type rackets that have a finishing knot at the top for cross, there will be some release of tension in the last string when we finish the knot. This leads to a dead spot at the top, where a lot of shots are played from, especially on tight balls. This is also apparent in factory strung rackets. To resolve this, I increase the tension in the last string by about 10-15lbs (depending on how stiff or flexible a string I'm using). So the tension in the top string then becomes similar to the rest of the strings.

@@amitojsingh7899 Hi, the rackets at factories are very poor, stringing is done for speed only and often only every 2 or 3 strings may be tensioned. Don't adjust the posts when stringing rackets, aside from minor adjustments if the frame rattles in the posts too much. Rackets will always change shape when stringing. In terms of the last tie off. There is actually a reason for not adding additional tension, this is to slightly soften the impact point for wall shots and also helps to reduce breakages off mishits. Also, the head is generally a lot weaker than the throat area, so it's not always a good idea to add extra tension, as I would normally do with tennis rackets. Badminton employs the same tactics, with the top cross strings being reduced in tension rather than increased. I hope you don't increase tension by 10-15lbs. Do you mean %?

​@@stringdoctor6238is there any way of clamping the width from the inside?

Ok, noted. Thanks again.

Hi Antony, You can do 2 things. I count how many crosses there are and work out where the final cross will sit. I.e. pushing against the mains on the last cross. This will determine if I start the first cross under the first main or over. I also just do a quick 'over, under, over, under' count down the grommets to physical check.

So if it finishes going over the last main then you would start the first cross with an over? Make sense to me if that's correct? Thanks!

@antonyharkin2010 the last cross at the throat has to be suppressing the mains (so either pushing down or pulling up, as opposed to gliding through without resistance). Depending on how many crosses there are on a racket would determine whether you start under or over the first main. Power rings are the best rackets to trial this with.

Hi Peter, you can use 2 pieces if you like but the around the world 1 piece version is generally the best as it ensures totally accurate tension across the mains. If you do a 2 piece, just make sure you start the crosses always from the head in squash and tennis. It's only badminton where you would start the crosses from the throat and this is due to the head shape of a badminton racket.

Yep, PC used the regular pattern for a bit but has gone to the AFP. Definitely one of the more intricate ones!

Pretty much, yes. If the mains finish at the throat then certainly.

Thanks!

Thanks Antony. Let me know if there are any rackets you're keen to see on here and next time I get one in, I'll record!

I know on some of the older models and the Xenon variants there were some slight differences with grommet positioning, but the principles should be exactly the same. Just keep an eye on which grommets to skip at the head. Do a quick scan and make some notes before you go for it 👍

@@stringdoctor6238 4 questions: 1) can I use 1.20 gauge stringing it that way or does it need to be 1.10? 2) what tension does Paul have it set at? 3) does 305 fare well with this pattern? 4) do you see a better durability stringing it this way?

@squashduos1258 305 1.20mm will work well in the racket. Definitely helps with durability as the strings won't move as much. I don't generally share the tensions for the pros unfortunately, unless they've publicly stated it, but this setup works best under 25lbs in my opinion.

@@stringdoctor6238 I have a green reel of 1.10 305 but they don’t tend to last very long (my breaks are consistently good ie no close to frame break) I am a bit worried about asking for this pattern but let’s see if he can do it. I currently play with a 22.5 lbs set up.

@squashduos1258 1.10 will last longer in this pattern than in other patterns.

I strung a couple a few days ago and thought I should have recorded it. The are a few tricks. I do Yow's rackets when I see him, which have the same pattern (he just uses the older frame with his signature on).

Good question. It may be that your reel of string is defective or has been stored incorrectly in the warehouse or where you bought it from. It would also be worth checking your clamps to make sure they're not too loose (slipping grates the strings) or too tight (which will crimp it). Also, try using a tooth brush with some alcohol to clean the clamp teeth to ensure there's no string residue that could damage the string you're clamping. Your reel should have a white stick on it with some number. The last two digits are year of manufacture. It will look something like 123456/24 (24 meaning it's been made this year). If you've been sold a reel of string that's old, the chances of it being defective increase.

@@stringdoctor6238 Thanks! I'll have a look at the string and check when it was made. Also probably worth mentioning that i'm stringing on a brand new technifibre X-Cord so it would be unlikely that i have any issues with the clamps themselves. but it's worth checking out. Appreciate the advice!

@@SnoozingMoose no problem. Yes, unlikely to be the machine/clamps.

@@stringdoctor6238 I've had a look at the reel and it appears that it is from 2023. Not sure what this means for the string exactly but ill have a go with some other string from this year and see if it turns out differently

@@SnoozingMoose should be fine if 2023. Worth you speaking with whoever you bought it from.

Thanks Scott. Yes, essential that the mains are all tuned properly and this is a great way to ensure it. In tennis, something like 70- 80% of the playability comes from the mains, not sure it's quite that high in squash but it certainly shows the importance of getting them right.

UltraNick does look good in these rackets for sure

A lot of the time it's when the string slackens in the gap and gives the impression more than it is - I.e the clamp doesn't move as much as it may appear to. But generally more noticeable on mains.

Hi there, yes I've used a few Yonex machines. Yonex machines are excellent but tend to be very expensive for the top machines. All I can say is that this is a great machine. I'm going to be getting the new Tecnifibre X-Cord machine very soon too, which I'm looking forward to!

@stringdoctor6238 how does the yonex models compare to this? I need a fast machine that's reliable, would u say that this machine is comparable?

@@GaryGao-l6b the Wilson machines are probably the most reliable in the business.

@stringdoctor6238 thank you, I'll buy it and try. I appreciate your help

Can be done as a one piece (comes from factory as one piece) but generally all power ring style rackets should be strung as two piece for tension maintenance and a more even spread as the tension creep from one piece isn't great on these type of rackets. Prince actually void warranties on their power ring rackets if not strung as a two piece.

@@stringdoctor6238 what would you think about doing the mains in a powerful string like TF VP for max power and then the crosses in a rougher string to cut the ball , say an ashaway unltranick? Would a rough string and a smooth string set up work do you think?

@@chrisport5549 personally I would say to keep it simple. Racketball is generally hit a bit flatter than squash and the difference will be marginal. Best overall string I use is Prince Duraflex (used on a couple of national champs rackets by me).

The 120 will be easier to manoeuvre but the 135 will give better control, especially at the front of the court. The 135 should have more power too as there is more weight in the head.

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for your kind advice! will give 135SB a shot.

Hi, I cover it in the video, but in short, Head recommend 2 piece on this racket, especially in this format. If you didn't do a 2 piece then you would need to do a fancy ATW (around the world) pattern as the mains finish naturally at the throat area. I've done an ATW on this racket but it just adds further complexity to an already complicated pattern for the average stringer - you need to factor in hard weaves etc into the mix too. The 2 piece on this frame ensures you can absolutely get consistent tension.

Currently using Kirschbaum Gut Feeling - really nice multifilament string.

@@stringdoctor6238 that’s the white one right

@@hamzakholy7528 it's clear/natural

Hello, it is a different technique, they both start at the head but the first two main (vertical) strings cross at the throat and switch sides.

The most tricky part is definitely the first few mains with the cross over. That's pretty uniformed on the Radicals and the Xenon's. Enjoy!

This set up is all about control, but lowering the tension to, say, early 20's will give enough power.

@@stringdoctor6238 He still cracks the ball ey. I guess that could be due to the lower tension as mentioned as well as the technique. Thanks for the rapid feedback.