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@@davidsilos7241 yes, can definitely be done as one piece. However, head recommend two piece stringing and for this racket, with its hidden grommets, I would absolutely only do two piece. Otherwise you might get some pretty severe tension slip on the long side.

@@bbulla try the ATW pattern, it genuinely makes the racket play a lot better, but as you say, sure they didn't design it to be complicated - most likely the stringing tie offs etc were an after thought.

@@canadiantennispro if you measure 18 racket widths of string, that will comfortably cover the strings and tie offs for it 👍

@@merylambrou2751 hi there, yes I got mine with a machine cover. Hopefully you should be able to get one from where you bought your machine.

@@snorlaxsam8334 there are a few different ways to string it, this being one. As long as it plays ok and there's consistency when doing multiple rackets, that's the main thing... and obviously the strings stay in the slots! Guessing you'd need to enlarge 2 or 3 grommets to make this work?

@@naradneblett7719 hey there, thanks so much for the kind words. Yes I will certainly do more videos. Any rackets in particular you'd like to see?

@@stringdoctor6238 the technifibre xtop v1 & v2 maybe a few more dunlop rackets too

@@harv21 using a stencil and ink 👍

@@Rackets-sports both are great machines. I prefer the new TF machine for the extra functions, like electronic height adjust and also prefer having a diabolo on the tension head rather than the beak, but everybody has a different preference. I know very good stringers who use the head machines but also the TF machine is currently being used at major events too. The TF rails and clamps (especially) would probably edge it for me.

@@stringdoctor6238 thank you very much for your replay do you have any ideas about gamma machines model els 9900

@@ross7731 hi Ross, thanks for getting in touch and glad you like the channel. So a big part of the feel comes from the natural gut in the mains. If not wanting to spend too much money you can replace with a thinner gauge multifilament (ideally) or if trying to save even more money, a synthetic gut string like Prince Duraflex. But a full bed of poly won't give you the powerful but soft feel that a hybrid gut/poly will give you. If it's for a 95 frame, I would just reduce the tension a bit too as it's a smaller head. Hope that helps a little.

Hey Pete, glad you like the machine. And re. Supports, these ease up after a few switch arounds. Much easier now thankfully.

@@stevewilson8088 hi Steve, the pattern is different to the new radical, but exactly the same as the speed 135 SB I did a video on (exactly the same racket aside from weight/balance and colour).

@@stevewilson8088 thanks Steve, much appreciated.

@@gregtippings4542 no problem. Racketball designers like testing us!

@@RitchES where are you based? If in UK you can buy through Smash Sports (UK Tecnifibre distributor). Feel free to mention me. Or if elsewhere in the world, send a message through the main TF website and they should be able to help.

Great stuff Rob! Any questions, you know where I am ;-)

@@stringdoctor6238 Cheers Jon! Heidi's loving the new Technifibre string👍👍

@@TactileRacquetPerformance I think you can use without the stand. It has a flat base and some stoppers which weren't needed when putting together with the stand. I haven't tried this yet but will check it out!!! Re. V2's, they're great rackets. Glad you like them!

Excellent! Sounds like it might be. If so, it'll be a top contender for my next machine

@@yung1523 hi there, I will do a video the next time I get one in. I occasionally string Yow's rackets when he's back in the UK, so maybe next time I get his, I'll record it!

Hey there, just to let you know I've just uploaded a video of me doing the Revelation 135.

@@stringdoctor6238life saver 🫡

@@좋은세상-e4b hi, the best tension range for this racket, I think, is 22lbs (power) to 27lbs (control). That is my choice but some people may like different tension. 24lbs is what I play with.

@@level27xrock it's a really good machine. I've strung quite a few rackets on it now, having spend the last 3.5 years on my Baiardo L. Took a little bit of getting used to but flying now. Rails and clamps excellent and puller very smooth!

Awesome! Glad to hear it. I know you experienced my problem on the Baiardo with doing Racketball rackets and the posts and billiards not always being able to fully mount and touch the frame at the very top or the very bottom since the Baiardo towers are not adjustable, is this no longer a problem on this machine? It is why I switched to the current Head machine, I've been meaning to make a video on it too

@@level27xrock plenty of reach on this machine. One of the longest heads in racketball is the head radical (they do a few other similar wave pattern rackets with hidden grommets too), and this one easily mounted with room to spare.

Love it!

Not on this machine. Most of the latest top end machines don't have curved rails. Babolat machines obviously do but the top of the range Yonex, Wilson and Tecnifibre machines don't.

@@antonyharkin2010 hey Antony, if you go directly to the Parnell Knot website, they ship to the UK.

@@antonyharkin2010 ps. Many thanks for the comments 😀

@@stringdoctor6238thanks!! I'm also looking to get some better fixed clamps, what would you recommend?

@@swbrim Hi Scott, as you say, there are trade off's but this is a method that's worked well for me and as long as good care and attention are given to the strings then it's fine doing it this way. One of the reasons for allowing the final 3 crosses to be done with the remaining short side string is to ensure as little tension slip on the last short side main as possible, which is more likely with only one cross being made after coming down the last short side main. But these are fairly minor points and funnily enough on the Dunlop revelation 125's with the slots on the bumpers/side strips, I do it the way you've mentioned, to ensure there are no strings left exposed outside the slots. Key thing is to just ensure the crosses are head to throat.

It depends how much stringing you do. Also worth noting that second hand machines hold their value pretty well, so there's always a decent chunk to put towards it from the sale of the old machine.

@@benlaw277 yeah, the trend is definitely lower now, with 24/25 being fairly common

@@heathdonnelly7501 thanks Heath. I'm certainly not a pro UA-camr but like to do what I can!

@@badmintontuneup good call out. Yes, will see what I can do.

@@dontmesswiththecricketfreak head Revolution. Colour really pops out!

@@A.Tim3 funny you should mention that as I did a couple of badminton rackets last night on mine and, yes, the plastic adapters are tight to remove and flip over. I have a feeling that this will get easier once they're used more though. Little tip, I used the thin end of a spoon handle to gently prize it open a bit then it made it much easier to remove.

@@stringdoctor6238 did you manage to get the supports to be flush with the arm because right now I have slight gaps between the arm and the supports, I thought of sanding down the tips that join so it goes in more easily so it’s not so tight to make it flush but right now there is a gap

@@stringdoctor6238did you manage to get the support flush with the arm because I’m putting a lot of force into it and there’s still a slight gap between the arm and support I’m considering sanding down the tips that connect to make a smoother fit and hopefully make it more flush

@@nellynelson965 this machine will be roughly the same cost I believe. I'll record some videos of stringing rackets on the new TF machine, so you can see what it looks like in real life!

@@prim0pyr0 ha ha, yes indeed. Will see if he switches back again as there's a huge difference in how the two patterns play. Personally I think it could be good for him to have both options in his bag, with the fan pattern being good to use in hotter, bouncier courts for more control.

@@simondennis101 it's not cheap, but TF looked after me a little with it.

@@kgwilliams6808 will record a stringing session on it soon!

Correct. But never used to actually pull the knot!

@@antonyharkin2010 hi Antony, if you use the same principles as the Farag video I did, this will work. You just need to keep an eye on where the top tie off is done and adjust which side you want as your long/short side. Also, instead of coming up the final main ok the long side, do 2 more crosses before you come up. This should leave only 1 cross to do from the short side string. This will keep the string in the notches perfectly. Just pull a bit more string through on the long side to compensate.

Thanks for the help! I will take a look at your Farag video and see how I get on :)).

I have now mastered this thanks to you! Thanks again 🙌. I can definitely see the benefit of using the ATW method for all racket where possible. Legend 👊

@antonyharkin2010 that's great. Really happy to hear 👌👌👌

@@stuartpreston8173 my Pleasure. It's a great machine! I'm actually going to be receiving the new Tecnifibre X-Cord machine very soon, so I'll review that one too.

It really depends. With squash, I very rarely tie off on a main - I will either use the short side for a couple of extra crosses at the top - to keep the last mains tensioned evenly (if so, will add an extra 10% and pull through any tension loss) or I will use an ATW pattern which doesn't require main string tie offs. One thing I would note is that, in squash, it's not always a bad thing to leave a little tension off at the top cross. This allows a kittle more cushioning for hits off the wall - less chance of string breakage at the head from shots close to the wall. Tennis though... always add minimum 10% - 20% on last mains/crosses before tie off. Much more tension loss and also no need to protect against wall shots (aside from the odd shank).

Thanks for getting back to me and this is very helpful. I Re String a lot of Racketball Rackets (mainly Head & Karakal Rackets), as Racketball is very popular at my club, hence why i use the two piece stringing method for these Racketball Rackets. Would you recommend adding 10% onto both main tension pulls before tying off on a Racketball Racket? Or just normal tension for the last main?

@@antonyharkin2010 on a two piece then yes, especially on the mains and when you have higher tension and a less dense string bed (compared to squash).

@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for clarifying!

Hi Rik, that's very kind of you to say. I think 305 and Biphase go well with it baby racket, but I suspect that Biphase 1.18 at around 22lbs will be amazing in this racket, as will 305 1.10 at about 24lbs (might not break as easily as in some frames due to the close string pattern). I'll have to test when I have chance!

Short side will finish crosses at the throat, yes.

Ok. Cool. So obviously you pulled enough to cover that. Thanks for the quick response!

@jamesr.cookejr.5168 yep, only a little extra though (so about 8 head lengths worth on the short side).

Perfect. Thanks again.

Would normally do this racket at 30lbs (smaller head, with denser string pattern than most RB rackets).

5lbs is a lot of extra. If 10 - 15lbs this could break the frame. Recommended 'extra' tension if you do use extra tension before tying off is 10% on squash rackets - so around 2.5lbs. Tennis you will sometimes go up to 20% (about 10lbs) as tennis frames are stronger. The dead feeling you get is likely because you've put too much tension through the string.

Yes, sound could be a little clearer. It's ok on most videos but could definitely improve on the sound. The short side is the side which has the shortest length of string use and is typically only for main strings on that side (and sometimes a few crosses). The other length of string does the mains on the other side plus the majority of the crosses. I generally measure 5 and a little bit full arm spans of string to be able to string a racket of this size. I'm 6ft 1 with long arms, so you may need to adjust. I measure with racket head lengths for the short side, plus a little extra and the rest of the string will be long enough to compete the rest. The reason for tying off at the throat first is due to having both clamps available for security. Always best to have two clamps in use in case one slips and to keep best tension. To tie off at the head first, you would need to use one of the clamps. Plus, it's more efficient to tie off at the throat first as you are already there. Hope that helps, Jon

​@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for the reply. One more question if you don't mind- Even after stringing your way, on a machine similar to your's (Wilson) the racket has come out narrower in width and taller by about 3mm compared to a factory strung racket. Is the factory using a different machine that might be clamping the racket from inside the frame widthwise, and does such a machine exist? To resolve the reduction in width, after tensioning the main strings, I am thinking of relaxing the top/bottom clamps, then relaxing the width clamp so the frame expands widthwise. Then on tensioning the cross strings the frame should revert to unstrung shape. This is how we used to string in the pre machine era 30-35 years back! I realize this may put the frame under uneven stress. Kindly advise if there is a better way, or should we just accept a minor change in shape? Also a tip- for Carboflex type rackets that have a finishing knot at the top for cross, there will be some release of tension in the last string when we finish the knot. This leads to a dead spot at the top, where a lot of shots are played from, especially on tight balls. This is also apparent in factory strung rackets. To resolve this, I increase the tension in the last string by about 10-15lbs (depending on how stiff or flexible a string I'm using). So the tension in the top string then becomes similar to the rest of the strings.

@@amitojsingh7899 Hi, the rackets at factories are very poor, stringing is done for speed only and often only every 2 or 3 strings may be tensioned. Don't adjust the posts when stringing rackets, aside from minor adjustments if the frame rattles in the posts too much. Rackets will always change shape when stringing. In terms of the last tie off. There is actually a reason for not adding additional tension, this is to slightly soften the impact point for wall shots and also helps to reduce breakages off mishits. Also, the head is generally a lot weaker than the throat area, so it's not always a good idea to add extra tension, as I would normally do with tennis rackets. Badminton employs the same tactics, with the top cross strings being reduced in tension rather than increased. I hope you don't increase tension by 10-15lbs. Do you mean %?

​@@stringdoctor6238is there any way of clamping the width from the inside?

Ok, noted. Thanks again.

Hi Antony, You can do 2 things. I count how many crosses there are and work out where the final cross will sit. I.e. pushing against the mains on the last cross. This will determine if I start the first cross under the first main or over. I also just do a quick 'over, under, over, under' count down the grommets to physical check.

So if it finishes going over the last main then you would start the first cross with an over? Make sense to me if that's correct? Thanks!

@antonyharkin2010 the last cross at the throat has to be suppressing the mains (so either pushing down or pulling up, as opposed to gliding through without resistance). Depending on how many crosses there are on a racket would determine whether you start under or over the first main. Power rings are the best rackets to trial this with.