I was pleased to see you do the top two crosses with the short side, so the mains are symmetric. These days I do that on essentially every racquet where appropriate. It's been hard to persuade others this is a good idea.
Thanks Scott. Yes, essential that the mains are all tuned properly and this is a great way to ensure it. In tennis, something like 70- 80% of the playability comes from the mains, not sure it's quite that high in squash but it certainly shows the importance of getting them right.
Jon please please do a video on how to string the Sonic Core Revelation 135, it’s blowing my mind on how to do it from top to bottom, the manual from Dunlop does from the bottom to the top, it’s a mind boggling experience
I strung a couple a few days ago and thought I should have recorded it. The are a few tricks. I do Yow's rackets when I see him, which have the same pattern (he just uses the older frame with his signature on).
Can you please do a Sonic Core Revelation 125 at some point? I'm not sure how to finish the mains at the head of the racket on this racket? I've tried using the ATW pattern, but it doesn't seem to stay in the notches this way. The only way to keep the strings neat in the notches is to string mains throat to head? Any assistance is much appreciated!
@@antonyharkin2010 hi Antony, if you use the same principles as the Farag video I did, this will work. You just need to keep an eye on where the top tie off is done and adjust which side you want as your long/short side. Also, instead of coming up the final main ok the long side, do 2 more crosses before you come up. This should leave only 1 cross to do from the short side string. This will keep the string in the notches perfectly. Just pull a bit more string through on the long side to compensate.
I have now mastered this thanks to you! Thanks again 🙌. I can definitely see the benefit of using the ATW method for all racket where possible. Legend 👊
When you tie off on mains / crosses do you always add on 10% extra to the last tension pull to take into account tension loss? Or only on last cross string?
It really depends. With squash, I very rarely tie off on a main - I will either use the short side for a couple of extra crosses at the top - to keep the last mains tensioned evenly (if so, will add an extra 10% and pull through any tension loss) or I will use an ATW pattern which doesn't require main string tie offs. One thing I would note is that, in squash, it's not always a bad thing to leave a little tension off at the top cross. This allows a kittle more cushioning for hits off the wall - less chance of string breakage at the head from shots close to the wall. Tennis though... always add minimum 10% - 20% on last mains/crosses before tie off. Much more tension loss and also no need to protect against wall shots (aside from the odd shank).
Thanks for getting back to me and this is very helpful. I Re String a lot of Racketball Rackets (mainly Head & Karakal Rackets), as Racketball is very popular at my club, hence why i use the two piece stringing method for these Racketball Rackets. Would you recommend adding 10% onto both main tension pulls before tying off on a Racketball Racket? Or just normal tension for the last main?
Hey Jon, i've recently begun to string rackets and with technifibre 305 1.20mm @22 pounds, and i've found that the finished racket seems to always have strings that are sort of stuck together. With some strings already seeming to be frayed by the time i've finished. I was originally told I was pulling the crosses to fast and not moving the strings up towards the other end of the racquet while I pulled them through. I began to do this and saw little improvement in the finished racquet as the strings still seemed to be in poor shape. When I hit with the rackets they seem to feel quite stiff and seem to vibrate as i hit them (Most unpleasantly). Am i doing something wrong still or could it be that the string i've got isn't great (Brand new reel)
Good question. It may be that your reel of string is defective or has been stored incorrectly in the warehouse or where you bought it from. It would also be worth checking your clamps to make sure they're not too loose (slipping grates the strings) or too tight (which will crimp it). Also, try using a tooth brush with some alcohol to clean the clamp teeth to ensure there's no string residue that could damage the string you're clamping. Your reel should have a white stick on it with some number. The last two digits are year of manufacture. It will look something like 123456/24 (24 meaning it's been made this year). If you've been sold a reel of string that's old, the chances of it being defective increase.
@@stringdoctor6238 Thanks! I'll have a look at the string and check when it was made. Also probably worth mentioning that i'm stringing on a brand new technifibre X-Cord so it would be unlikely that i have any issues with the clamps themselves. but it's worth checking out. Appreciate the advice!
@@stringdoctor6238 I've had a look at the reel and it appears that it is from 2023. Not sure what this means for the string exactly but ill have a go with some other string from this year and see if it turns out differently
I was pleased to see you do the top two crosses with the short side, so the mains are symmetric. These days I do that on essentially every racquet where appropriate. It's been hard to persuade others this is a good idea.
Thanks Scott. Yes, essential that the mains are all tuned properly and this is a great way to ensure it. In tennis, something like 70- 80% of the playability comes from the mains, not sure it's quite that high in squash but it certainly shows the importance of getting them right.
Jon please please do a video on how to string the Sonic Core Revelation 135, it’s blowing my mind on how to do it from top to bottom, the manual from Dunlop does from the bottom to the top, it’s a mind boggling experience
I strung a couple a few days ago and thought I should have recorded it. The are a few tricks. I do Yow's rackets when I see him, which have the same pattern (he just uses the older frame with his signature on).
Nice one Jon
Definitely going 24 lbs next time with the X-One Biphase
Can you please do a Sonic Core Revelation 125 at some point? I'm not sure how to finish the mains at the head of the racket on this racket? I've tried using the ATW pattern, but it doesn't seem to stay in the notches this way. The only way to keep the strings neat in the notches is to string mains throat to head?
Any assistance is much appreciated!
@@antonyharkin2010 hi Antony, if you use the same principles as the Farag video I did, this will work. You just need to keep an eye on where the top tie off is done and adjust which side you want as your long/short side. Also, instead of coming up the final main ok the long side, do 2 more crosses before you come up. This should leave only 1 cross to do from the short side string. This will keep the string in the notches perfectly. Just pull a bit more string through on the long side to compensate.
Thanks for the help! I will take a look at your Farag video and see how I get on :)).
I have now mastered this thanks to you! Thanks again 🙌.
I can definitely see the benefit of using the ATW method for all racket where possible.
Legend 👊
@antonyharkin2010 that's great. Really happy to hear 👌👌👌
When you tie off on mains / crosses do you always add on 10% extra to the last tension pull to take into account tension loss?
Or only on last cross string?
It really depends. With squash, I very rarely tie off on a main - I will either use the short side for a couple of extra crosses at the top - to keep the last mains tensioned evenly (if so, will add an extra 10% and pull through any tension loss) or I will use an ATW pattern which doesn't require main string tie offs. One thing I would note is that, in squash, it's not always a bad thing to leave a little tension off at the top cross. This allows a kittle more cushioning for hits off the wall - less chance of string breakage at the head from shots close to the wall.
Tennis though... always add minimum 10% - 20% on last mains/crosses before tie off. Much more tension loss and also no need to protect against wall shots (aside from the odd shank).
Thanks for getting back to me and this is very helpful.
I Re String a lot of Racketball Rackets (mainly Head & Karakal Rackets), as Racketball is very popular at my club, hence why i use the two piece stringing method for these Racketball Rackets. Would you recommend adding 10% onto both main tension pulls before tying off on a Racketball Racket? Or just normal tension for the last main?
@@antonyharkin2010 on a two piece then yes, especially on the mains and when you have higher tension and a less dense string bed (compared to squash).
@@stringdoctor6238 thanks for clarifying!
Such a shame your client didn't want Ultranick strings, would've looked so good
UltraNick does look good in these rackets for sure
Hey Jon, i've recently begun to string rackets and with technifibre 305 1.20mm @22 pounds, and i've found that the finished racket seems to always have strings that are sort of stuck together. With some strings already seeming to be frayed by the time i've finished. I was originally told I was pulling the crosses to fast and not moving the strings up towards the other end of the racquet while I pulled them through. I began to do this and saw little improvement in the finished racquet as the strings still seemed to be in poor shape. When I hit with the rackets they seem to feel quite stiff and seem to vibrate as i hit them (Most unpleasantly). Am i doing something wrong still or could it be that the string i've got isn't great (Brand new reel)
Good question. It may be that your reel of string is defective or has been stored incorrectly in the warehouse or where you bought it from. It would also be worth checking your clamps to make sure they're not too loose (slipping grates the strings) or too tight (which will crimp it). Also, try using a tooth brush with some alcohol to clean the clamp teeth to ensure there's no string residue that could damage the string you're clamping.
Your reel should have a white stick on it with some number. The last two digits are year of manufacture. It will look something like 123456/24 (24 meaning it's been made this year). If you've been sold a reel of string that's old, the chances of it being defective increase.
@@stringdoctor6238 Thanks! I'll have a look at the string and check when it was made. Also probably worth mentioning that i'm stringing on a brand new technifibre X-Cord so it would be unlikely that i have any issues with the clamps themselves. but it's worth checking out. Appreciate the advice!
@@SnoozingMoose no problem. Yes, unlikely to be the machine/clamps.
@@stringdoctor6238 I've had a look at the reel and it appears that it is from 2023. Not sure what this means for the string exactly but ill have a go with some other string from this year and see if it turns out differently
@@SnoozingMoose should be fine if 2023. Worth you speaking with whoever you bought it from.