Відео

Toooob? Sodderd? Do you mean Tube and soldered?

I'm wondering if this pwm controller can cause any damage to either newer Hornby motors or the ringfield motors.

Lube the axle with graphite, which is conductive.

I think I'd use thinner wires to carry the current from the bogie to the inside, or have a terminal block near the bogie. Then the thinner wire would impede the rotation of the bogie less than the ones shown. An alternative is to have a loop in the wire from the bogie, under the coach, so that the rotation of the bogie is less-impeded.

ist auch nicht des rätsels lösung, eher sogar schlechter. das problem ist der staub, der mikrofeine staub setzt sich zwischen achse und röhrchen fest , was bereits nach wenigen betriebsstunden passiert. und die räder drehen sich schwer oder gar nicht mehr.ich kann draht kontakte eher reinigen als diese lösung. übrigens haben wir das schon vor fast 50 jahren ausprobiert , nämlich mit messing kugelschreiberminen, für die 4farb kugelschreiberminen. thumbs down für deine lösung---negativ.

Thanks for doing this video. I’ve used your original one many times and have a ton of rolling stock using this setup. 👍

I just received this kit and haven't quite mastered the programming part yet. I have an end-to-end light rail model and don't know the run time, I would just like the N-scale unit to get to one end, pause for two or three seconds, then head the other way. It's challenging to know how many seconds to program each cycle to make sure the train makes it.

I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.

I'm excited because I ordered this from you and it's on its way to me now. I'm using Kato N Scale track, is that OK or do I need to find a way to use the track sections you send? I hope the instructions will explain where to solder the diodes (I presume at the joint between the last two sections at each end of the line) and how to program the systems for time delay.

I added light to a N Scale Caboose with a similar method, but used 26 gauge solid copper wire. with about six winds around the axles . It took a little trial and error to get the winds not too loose or too tight. The small size of the n scale caboose added some difficulty. I screwed around with it for about a week before I had good enough results . Thanks for the video.

Just made a setup that fits in a window sill for a Christmas Train, The reversing unit came with good Documentation, but nothing like watching a video. The segment in your video on using the program button I watched a half dozen times. Video was well done. Working on this in June to be ready for the Christmas season this year. Thanks.

could brass tubing be used besides copper?..This a great idea but i'd think the wires would restrict the bogies left to right movement, 3:22 unless real thin wire...hmm

I wish you would learn to pronounce the word correctly.. it is.. SOLD-ER.... not ... SODDER...!!!>.. there is an L in the word not double D's..... and why have you fitted the coupling upside down ???

This is awesome! I've been toying with the idea of making a little diorama but don't have the space for a circuit. Love the idea of using two of these and having two straight lines going through a station back and forth. Would be a great amount of motion for a tiny layout :)

Need one of these for the trolley running in the town of my layout.

You do Not mention that the LED will get brighter as the power is increased and dimmer as the power is decreased in the track and thus it would be much better to be powered from a separate power supply or from the controller's other continuous supply source when used in the DC mode. It does Not work for DCC as the track is powered with an alternating current AC.

Thank you for the video. Just acquired one of these. Very informative.

Can i buy this whole set off you?

What are the specs of the diodes, there are many to choose from on amazon.

Is this only for DC track or will it also work for DCC?

Where do you get the wheel sets for pickup for the 8 show with the brass colors on the axles

ty ty ty so love this explains what ive been trying to figure out so much i am now going to look at yourr kit great work my friend ty for such an easy explanation

I just stumbled across your video. Ingenus. So many times I have had a piece of baseboard in my hand it never occurred to me that this would make a great train display. I built your basic display for my HO collection. And I like floating shelves. I have put up a few in my house.

Hubby has been working on installing this all day...we get the trolley to go in one direction and stops but then once the relay kicks to go to reverse, the trolley doesn't move. Any idea what we did wrong?

Robert, just received mine. When you estimate the run time. Ex mine is about 10ft of track at a slow speed. Say that would take 10sec. But you want it to sit in place for a few minutes. Do you hold the key down for that amount of time to program it?

Good job

I’m having a difficult time understanding the programming. I can’t seem to “clear “ the board to start over. My off time is ok. However my run time is only about 5 seconds. And I want 25 seconds.

The drag from regular wipers just isn't that much - negligible at worst, non-existent at best.

Is this possible to perform on an AC layout?

Hand held cams sucks

Love the clarity of the instructions. Been looking for this for quite some time. Where can I find this kit for purchase? (I'm an N-scaler)

Will this work with 00 gauge?

Why does programming the thing have to be so hard?

Ok I give up....where can I buy the axle covers and how mutch???

Where trains wheels are available for buying

Can’t order if their isn’t a website shown??

Where is the website?

Hi

I use a mini full wave rectifier, a 3300uF capacitor and LED strip lighting whereby the LED's can be cut apart at every 3rd LED. There is no need for a resistor between the rectifier and the LED strip. Ballast (dropping resistors) are built into the LED strips. I've used this method to change all my incandescent lighting on coaches to LED lighting. I even made some wheel pickups out of some copper I salvaged from an old computer. I lit up an REA (Railway Express Agency) coach but my LED's were bright white. The wife said it looked to fake so I had to take it apart and using some yellow acrylic paint, I painted each of the 12 LED's yellow. That really toned down the bright white and it looks like old gas lighting from the period. I use the blue putty to hold the cap and the LED strip has adhesive backing to stick to the underside of the interior roof. My trains are DC so I don't have to worry about all that DCC crap. Cheers from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee

Can Hornby's locomotive still work, keep moving back and forth if installed HM7000 DCC Sound Decoder?

Look to do this with a Rapido DC GO Train 🚆

thanks for you info

Can this relay be programed for more than 10 seconds and on a longer track?

I used a 3rd diode and 100 uF capacitor to power the relay board Vin/GND pins with the same PWM voltage that goes to the P+/P- pins. Relay works fine from full power PWM (12V in my case) down to less than 1/3 full PWM. Besides not needing batteries, when I stop the train (i.e. 0V PWM), I don't hear the relay clicking.

Where can I buy one of those control boards?

You should do an auto points switching project

can you combine this with the auto reversing relay?

It looks cool but you built it backwards the lights are on the wrong side

I bought that from your ebay

Super helpful for wiring cheap signals found on Amazon and eBay as well. Thanks