I added light to a N Scale Caboose with a similar method, but used 26 gauge solid copper wire. with about six winds around the axles . It took a little trial and error to get the winds not too loose or too tight. The small size of the n scale caboose added some difficulty. I screwed around with it for about a week before I had good enough results . Thanks for the video.
A good tip thankyou. It is a simple lever effect, akin to putting larger brakes on your car but in reverse. The wiper contacting on outside of wheel acts like a set of large brakes whereas a contact wiper set against the axle is similar to tiny brake rotors. The...cadence...though,.... of....the.... narration ....was....a....Little hard to ....handle. The tip however was nonetheless useful and appreciated.
I think I'd use thinner wires to carry the current from the bogie to the inside, or have a terminal block near the bogie. Then the thinner wire would impede the rotation of the bogie less than the ones shown. An alternative is to have a loop in the wire from the bogie, under the coach, so that the rotation of the bogie is less-impeded.
could brass tubing be used besides copper?..This a great idea but i'd think the wires would restrict the bogies left to right movement, 3:22 unless real thin wire...hmm
Yes. Brass could be used. A bit more expensive and harder to cut. Copper conducts just as well. Yes. Leave some slack in the wire to allow for bogie turning. Check this after installing.,
@@robertwilkins1765 Hi Rob thanks for the info...So only one per truck, two wires leads connected to positive/negative leads on motor...Or can i solder a wire to each truck axle, one for negative side and other for positive...same thing i spose. edited...figured it out, works flawlessy..added power to a tender on a small 0-4-0..it is smooth over any switch frogs
The brass color are actually the copper collars described in this video . They are specifically prepared.Check the website modeltrainsounds.com for availability.
I really like the idea of copper tubing on the metal axle but I am hesitant to take apart my wheel/axle assemblies. I'm going to try using the tubing but I will slit the tubing to fit over the axle. Then I will crimp the tubing on the axle and solder it. Pre tin your tubing and soldering the wires will go easier.
When not using proprietary wheels, all wheelsets are insulated. One would have to drill thro' one wheel and insert a wire, then take it and wrap it arond the axle to de-insulate it.
All modern metal wheel sets have one insulated wheel (to prevent shorts between the two rails) and one non-insulated wheel. An area of the collar will always be physically touching along the length of the axle as the wheel spins. With the non-insulated wheel contacting the rail a circuit is made to supply power.
The idea is good, but, your method divides the number of grabber wheels by 2. The 4 wheels never touch the rails at the same time, which is shown by your video where the LEDs flash. In addition, it is always dangerous to disassemble the axles, despite the use of appropriate tools.
A good point . The capacitor works to help avoid flickering by storing voltage. Larger capacitors are too bulky for the carriage interior in HO scale. I use 2200uf Caps on O scale cars.
@@hartleymartin Of course the friction is nearly the same (depending on the pressing force), but the wipers on the axles act in a smaller radius than on the wheels. And so, following the lever principle, the braking force is also smaller. Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
ist auch nicht des rätsels lösung, eher sogar schlechter. das problem ist der staub, der mikrofeine staub setzt sich zwischen achse und röhrchen fest , was bereits nach wenigen betriebsstunden passiert. und die räder drehen sich schwer oder gar nicht mehr.ich kann draht kontakte eher reinigen als diese lösung. übrigens haben wir das schon vor fast 50 jahren ausprobiert , nämlich mit messing kugelschreiberminen, für die 4farb kugelschreiberminen. thumbs down für deine lösung---negativ.
I added light to a N Scale Caboose with a similar method, but used 26 gauge solid copper wire. with about six winds around the axles . It took a little trial and error to get the winds not too loose or too tight. The small size of the n scale caboose added some difficulty. I screwed around with it for about a week before I had good enough results . Thanks for the video.
I haven't tried the collars on N scale. It's on my project list.
@@robertwilkins1765 it is easier to use copper sheets bent into wiper spring - what they use on kato
I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thank you Rod.
A good tip thankyou. It is a simple lever effect, akin to putting larger brakes on your car but in reverse.
The wiper contacting on outside of wheel acts like a set of large brakes whereas a contact wiper set against the axle is similar to tiny brake rotors.
The...cadence...though,....
of....the.... narration ....was....a....Little hard to ....handle. The tip however was nonetheless useful and appreciated.
Thanks for the comment.
Brass tube from K&S Brass, USA, of the correct internal dimensions is available at most Hobby Stores.
Wow it's freely move 😮😲😲
I think I'd use thinner wires to carry the current from the bogie to the inside, or have a terminal block near the bogie. Then the thinner wire would impede the rotation of the bogie less than the ones shown.
An alternative is to have a loop in the wire from the bogie, under the coach, so that the rotation of the bogie is less-impeded.
Can the led just be connected and it will work? nothing else needed?
could brass tubing be used besides copper?..This a great idea but i'd think the wires would restrict the bogies left to right movement, 3:22 unless real thin wire...hmm
Yes. Brass could be used. A bit more expensive and harder to cut. Copper conducts just as well.
Yes. Leave some slack in the wire to allow for bogie turning. Check this after installing.,
@@robertwilkins1765 Hi Rob thanks for the info...So only one per truck, two wires leads connected to positive/negative leads on motor...Or can i solder a wire to each truck axle, one for negative side and other for positive...same thing i spose. edited...figured it out, works flawlessy..added power to a tender on a small 0-4-0..it is smooth over any switch frogs
Great idea.
Thanks
Toooob? Sodderd? Do you mean Tube and soldered?
Ok I give up....where can I buy the axle covers and how mutch???
Where do you get the wheel sets for pickup for the 8 show with the brass colors on the axles
The brass color are actually the copper collars described in this video . They are specifically prepared.Check the website modeltrainsounds.com for availability.
id like to see how you can do this with a bluetooth speaker on pick up wheel on a excursion car
Where trains wheels are available for buying
Lube the axle with graphite, which is conductive.
would this work on directional lights going forward white then red backwards
It would depend how you set up the circuit as current is running in 2 directions, a bridge rectifier cannot be used with the system I use.
You can buy red/white bidirectional LEDs. Reverse the current direction to change the colour.
I really like the idea of copper tubing on the metal axle but I am hesitant to take apart my wheel/axle assemblies. I'm going to try using the tubing but I will slit the tubing to fit over the axle. Then I will crimp the tubing on the axle and solder it. Pre tin your tubing and soldering the wires will go easier.
Maybe you can wrap a few turns of wire around the axle. Whichever way you do it it looks a lot better than wipers I will experiment with this too
I have found InterMountain and Bachman make metal wheels with insulation inserts .
Use Intermountain wheels. Separate gently.
If you crimp the tubing, you probably won't need to solder it.
Will brass tube work as well?
It should.
what size diameter copper tubing are you using ?
The copper collars have an OD of 5/32" and ID of 1/8"
I use 1/8 ID , 5/32" OD The Outer diameter should not touch the wheel backing on the insulated side.
Good, but it requires disassembly and reassembly of the wheelset, which honestly requires special equipment
The only 'special' tool needed might be an NMRA track gage.
You neglected to explain how to make an electrical connection between the pickup-side wheel and the axle.
i think that the axle and 1 wheel are made as 1 the other wheel is insulated and press fit. does this make sense? not sure im explaining it well
Check the website for Caboose and passenger car lighting ... modeltrainsounds.com
When not using proprietary wheels, all wheelsets are insulated. One would have to drill thro' one wheel and insert a wire, then take it and wrap it arond the axle to de-insulate it.
All modern metal wheel sets have one insulated wheel (to prevent shorts between the two rails) and one non-insulated wheel. An area of the collar will always be physically touching along the length of the axle as the wheel spins. With the non-insulated wheel contacting the rail a circuit is made to supply power.
This method halves the number if pickup points though
The idea is good, but, your method divides the number of grabber wheels by 2. The 4 wheels never touch the rails at the same time, which is shown by your video where the LEDs flash. In addition, it is always dangerous to disassemble the axles, despite the use of appropriate tools.
A good point . The capacitor works to help avoid flickering by storing voltage. Larger capacitors are too bulky for the carriage interior in HO scale. I use 2200uf Caps on O scale cars.
@@robertwilkins1765 - I wonder if wipers onto the axles would have less friction than wipers on the wheel-sets.
@@hartleymartin Of course the friction is nearly the same (depending on the pressing force), but the wipers on the axles act in a smaller radius than on the wheels. And so, following the lever principle, the braking force is also smaller. Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
ist auch nicht des rätsels lösung, eher sogar schlechter. das problem ist der staub, der mikrofeine staub setzt sich zwischen achse und röhrchen fest , was bereits nach wenigen betriebsstunden passiert. und die räder drehen sich schwer oder gar nicht mehr.ich kann draht kontakte eher reinigen als diese lösung. übrigens haben wir das schon vor fast 50 jahren ausprobiert , nämlich mit messing kugelschreiberminen, für die 4farb kugelschreiberminen. thumbs down für deine lösung---negativ.
The drag from regular wipers just isn't that much - negligible at worst, non-existent at best.
Sir i m from India plz send me all dimension of wheels plz...............Plz...
You can use standard 33" or 36" wheelsets. See the reply to the size of the copper collars.
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