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I have a 1.4 tdci cranks no start new sensors crank and cam fuel rail etc had ecu into another car ran other car spot on changed nearly all sensors checked timing etc starts from easy right away just not off its own diesel any help

I have an 2010 audi a5 2.0 tfsi quattro and recently once the car gets to temp while driving the revs drop for a split second . It does it intermittently but on every drive. The idle seems a bit low too 700/800 rpm. I also get occasional stop/ start function unavailable messages and the epc light which goes off once started the next day. I have 2 codes, p032200 and p008800. After some reading i suspect the crankshaft position sensor but I'm a novice. Any thoughts pls? Any help would be greatly appreciated 👏

Excellent video thanks,, keep it up 👍

My diagnostic mechanic mate said you don't even need to reprogram in the new injectors so just plug and play the new or used one, simple, don't pay for a rip off mechanic for a two minute reprogramming folks

So could you just map out the egr valve?

Its not clear

Terrible video ,poor lighting and insight

Great expert video

Thank you,so what is major problem solving please.

Wiring is pants on these caddy should be compensated by vw

Poor injector design...

Traduci italiano

After I had some issue with my engine power my mechanic changed one of my injector, after one year the issue returned so I add liquid moly to my diesel and after one month I decided to check if my mechanic changed the code in ECU, and I found that he didnt, so I changed the injector number in ECU by myself to correct numbers, and what I probable made wrong I restarted all injectors. After that the engine in my Ford C max 1.6 tdci is not responding. I know that I have errors in 1 and 4 cylinder low pressure, the third injector was substtitute by my mechanic, I kmow that injectors works in pairs, so I suppose I have foulty injector 1 or 4, and I changed code of 3 rd injectors. I am about to clean injectors, I hope they are not all need to be removed. Is it worth trying ? Should I now remove all errors from the ECU ? or wait until I clean injectors ? By the way, I am plumber not mechanic.

Did you replace with a bosch part (about £100-130) or a genuine VAG part from TPS? I've replaced with the bosch unit and had not improvements at all... so frustrating

Mobile Automotive Service, can u tell me please the Injectors torque and the grade, the bolt's tight setting please. I need this Information ASAP because tomorrow I want to change the injectors! Thank you in advance

If your injectors "stop working" (1 or more, 1.4tdci) and everyone is baffled - check the 4 pins on the ECU that control the injectors - far rhs of the ecu as you look at the connections, they're numbered 1 to 4 beside the output pins. Check them with a multi-meter, there should be no continuity between the paired pins. You may well find there is continuity, which means the ecu is shorted internally. Reading the codes will only show "injector wiring injector X short circuit" - which may lead to a wild goose chase checking wires etc etc. It's the ecu... open it up & you will see white crusties. They're the problem. Easiest done by first removing the headlight/battery tray so you have good access. Send the ECU off to "We Fix ECU's" or similar.

You interview your customers? 😂😂🤡🤡

Mine failed last year put a new aftermarket cat in and it passed and it failed again this year will check the map sensor. Is it on the side of the intake manifold? Thanks for your help 👍

Same issue here. Toyota LC D4D 2005. Called AA. They couldn’t find any faults. Currently waiting for a pickup truck. Can you help with the part number and where you bought the suction valve from ? I’m going to try to change it on my own. Was it easy to change ? Many thanks.

That's a PSA dv6c and the earlier dv6 and this dv6c engine and cylinder one is at gearbox end u know being a Citroën technician and know that engine well

Hi what type of manual you used to find the wiring diagrams?

Horrid engines them tbh! Not even a ford engine, but PSA.

Hi buddy get some contact details I would like you to diagnose mine it does my nuts.. I have spent approx 2k at VAG specialist... And still same problem ... They said ... Timing chain.. VVT valves plus body... Then crank breather... Then crank sensor... .. now they said injectors are faulty.. but i have lost trust in them.. btw. No faults on the dash it is 2.0 TFSI 2015. . Rough idle sometimes but it getting more frequently now..

If I just clean the injector and put it back do I have to program it again?

Number 1 cylinder from gearbox, pal

Hi can you help same problem I bought new module and I still have same problem

Thanks

Hey so I was driving and felt my car loosing power so I pulled over turn the car off and the car never started back again it cranks but that’s it I notice that while it was losing power my epc light came on I put the scanner on and it just said it was misfiring I change the sparks and coils and it still doesn’t turn on do u know what it could be can u pls get back at me with ur opinion pls I have a 2008 Audi a4

I own an 2012 ford focus with the same error exactly on the same injector.I tested with forscan to find out why motor is starting to shake bad .In a few days i will go to the mechanic in order to resolve the problem.Thanks for the explanation here, because in my situation i will go with my homework done to the mechanic,to know what is dooing to the engine

Hi I have the same problem on my audi a4 b8 2.0tdi 88kw caga rough idle but runs perfect no codes just p200800 If I change the high pressure fuel regulator will it fix the problem thanks for your reply.

What are the tightening torque and degrees specifications for the injector clamp bolt?

Hello, many thanks for your sharing video. It helped a lot, but I ran into a problem after the exchange. After replacing the injection with a refurbished one, the injector now knocks. Can you please tell me how many NM you tightened the injection holder on. Or do you have no advice on what could cause this knock after the injector replacement? There was no knock before the exchange. Coding new one is done. Thank you

hi mate citroen peugeot dealers not very helpful

Excellent, Thank You ! Been loathe to do this job, but maybe I can. Daughter's 2004 C-Max (with the PSA 16V engine) shows signs of fuel starvation but has no Primer

Hello can u tell us what is name of tour diagnostic plss

Great video mate! I’m just glad you mentioned the cylinder number and said which way they’re numbered lol. I’m not thick on the spanner’s usually but I know the firing order and cylinder layout are different on the french motors sometimes. My 2012 focus has a number 2 injector issue too and I couldn’t fathom whether number 1 was on the left or right. I’m following your lead as 1 is on the left. By the way,great tip cutting that insulation,saved me a bucket of pain getting to the built! Keep up the great tutorials pal👍🏻

For myself it was the N290, when replaced cured. However it came back again. The replacement was a used part. So I sourced one from ebay, apparently genuine. Didn't work immediately, sorted itself after some driving then came back again. In the end used VCDS to reset learned metering values and good up until now. I've read many people say this problem is related to metal in the fuel system. 🤔

I have the same car with the exact same problem, please help me mate, thought TDCi don't have the safety pin or did you make one yourself?

Hi have you any contact details I’ve an A6 with a rough idle replaced the cam shaft sensor but it’s nearly worse

Hlo my car ford Figo not starting

I have a caddy that goes in to limp mode turbo diesel should we look for the wires also its a common issue?

What part was replaced?

I have a 2007 Audi A4 Avant S-Line 2.0L Turbo Petrol. Very recently [approx 1 week ago, since the weather has turned much colder] the 'tick-over' revs - which had always been approx 1000rpm suddenly started 'surging' up to 1300-1400 rpm. This only lasts a few seconds then the revs fall back to 800-900 rpm and the car will start shuddering slightly. Then the revs will surge up again...and repeat this 'cycle'. I have checked the oil and that's fine but I haven't got a diagnostic testing kit to check the engine management system. Do you have any advice what the problem is - and how I can fix it? Thanks! PS the car doesn't cut out or misfire at all - just this constant surging and dropping of the tick-over when the engine is idling.

Hi I have ame problem on fiesta van I wud be greatfull if I cud have a still shot were to put the pin thanks

Very good video my friend appreciate the upload

What is the part name that you replaced? I have the same thing going on

Jebus this one baffled me completely

Good vid .

Hi 👋 , Great video. I have a similar issue. What is the name of your garage ?

Thorough job mate. But for anyone else watching this you can make an earth lead out of jumper cables by snipping the crocodile connection and crimping a ring connector. And it doesn't even need to go back to battery just a good chassis biting point as the body is grounded direct to battery. That will save you time on removing all those housing bits. Just make sure where you route the new cable its away from moving parts.