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I'm going to Home Depot tomorrow to buy a t60 torx 3/8 socket and see if I can get that screw off. Any suggestions? Your video shows you using an Allen but my truck has a torx. Was your bleeder screw easy to remove?

​ @Jbe_theName420 , these motors are 'special' in that they have this bleeder screw because the thermostat is towards the bottom of the motor. Most cars have the thermostat towerds the top so they don't need the bleeder and can be bled by letting the motor run with something like the no-spill funnel I use in this video (or repeated hot-cold cycles from normal driving). As long as the motor hasn't overheated since you changed out the radiator you haven't done any damage to the motor. Make sure the coolant is topped off at the radiator cap and reservoir every couple days, and before a long drive. Run with the heater on to make sure air isn't trapped in there (good thing it's starting to get cold outside). It should bleed itself out after you get a good amount of milage on it. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge and pull over and shut off the engine the moment it starts to get too hot (i.e. outside the 'Normal' text on the gauge). As for the stripped screw: I'd start with penetrating lube and lots of it. Let it soak in there for a couple hours, reapplying periodically. Maybe also soak a rag or paper towels in penetrating lube and wrap the rag/towel around the bleeder to help keep it moist? Might help to get the motor up to operating temps before trying to turn the bleeder so the heat from the motor can help to break it loose. Avoid drilling it out or heating with a torch if the bleeder housing is still on the motor. You don't want shavings getting in the engine or the housings gasket or other plastic bits around it melting or burning. If you can take the housing off then have at it! Home Depot sells Map (yellow) and Propane (blue) gas torches that work well. Map gas runs hotter than propane. Propane will get the job done, but will just take a little longer. I have not seen them with a torx head. Always with a hex. Yes, mine has always been easy to remove. They shouldn't be on that tight because they are standard pipe threads. Maybe yours got replaced at some point and over tightened? If you replace it, make sure to replace it with one that is the same type of metal as the housing (steal?). Dissimilar metals can weld themselves together over time. Maybe pick one up from a local junk yard or pick-n-pull type place. Chrysler 4.7L V8s are in a TON of makes and models over many years, so one should be available. Good luck!!!

Sorry it didn't work out for you. 12 years is a really good run for any TV. It is probably really tired. Sounds like something failed on one of the circuit boards (i.e. a blown capacitor). Try to take it to an electronics recycler in your neighborhood so it can be turned into another TV. Some stores will even take your old TV and recycle it for you if you buy a new TV from them. Good luck!

Wow thanks for your quick, kind and thoughtful response! I never know what feels better: when an appliance mysteriously craps out like this or having it be knocked down / exploding due to electric current / etc. Oh well. Guess the silver lining is that Black Friday is next week. Cheers.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Much deserved! Great job 👍🏻

It depends. If the ribbon is soldered to the board on both ends then it could be desoldered and a new one soldered in its place by someone experienced soldering small electronics. If the ribbon is connected via a clamp connector think on both ends then you could just swap out the cable. The trick is getting the replacement ribbon. But it could also be an issue with the circuit board which could also be replaced, but they can be expensive. Good luck.

In the board is connected like the tv on this video, not soldering, and in the interior is glued whit some grey silicone. Also i check the resistors right above the clamp conector and the 3.3 k.0 grows up to 7.3. I thought that was the problem but i change the resistor and start the problem again. Definitly is the ribbon but how could fail, there is no way to repair it? 😕

@@Omartic0, the ribbon could have a broken or damaged wire internally, inside the rubber/plastic insolation. The ribbon could look fine from the outside, but inside the wires could be severed. I wouldn't try to repair it, I would try to replace it. Good luck.

@@petrocksgaragethanks for the answer, now am tom cruise trying to find this ribbon. 😅

@@Omartic0 Good luck!

You're welcome.

The brake line isn't the limiting factor in this case on my bike. There is enough bend in the flexible hose without touching the tab (more on that below). The caliper physically will not fit between the rotor and inner diameter of these stock rims without removing the pads to rotate the caliper out. Trust me, I tried a lot. Your bike may have rims with a bigger inner diameter or thickness, or rotors with a smaller outer diameter that make it so you can remove the caliper that easily, but others may not. As for the tab, I wouldn't advise bending it out of the way for this job if you don't have to. With how often the rear wheel will be removed throughout the life of the bike (assuming its not a garage or trailer queen and is actually ridden) that thin piece of metal could easily break off from metal fatigue. If that happens it's a big P.I.T.A. to fix correctly. So I wouldn't advise bending it if you don't have to. But you do you. It's your ride.

As I mentioned in the video, there are many different exhaust systems out there. How easy it is to gain access to the axle shaft & caliper bolts is entirely dependent on how the exhaust was designed. Some may have shorty exhaust that don't reach the rear swing arm and therefore the exhaust doesn't even have to be touched during this job. If your exhaust has detachable mufflers then great! The job is that much easier for you. Others may not be so lucky. My exhaust shown in the video, for example, doesn't have detachable mufflers. It's all one solid pipe from the motor to the tip. So I have to do more to get access to the axle and caliper bolts. Hope that helps.

Tape will work, assuming your window is clean and enough tape is applied without damaging the paint. Another method is string and a couple suction cups or magnet hooks. There are many way to hold up the window. Use whatever gets the job done. There is no 'right or wrong' way.

No problem. Glad to be of service, Enjoy your new (to you) ride.

Cool. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video is helping you out. Good luck!

Following the steps I show in the video should get you there. But either you've got air in the system and need to bleed it via the bleed screw like in the video, or you've got a coolant leak somewhere. Could be external or internal. If, after bleeding, you still have low coolant I'd rent a radiator pressure tester from your local auto parts store and try to find the leak. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Do you mean the side rear window that lines up with the main windows? If so, yes. I don't have a video on that though since mine have not had an alignment issue (yet). Or do you mean the rear window you look out through the rear view mirror? If so, no.

Yes the little rear side window

@@SoHood414, ok. Yes, those can be adjusted. I don't have a video on it though. Good luck.

You're welcome. Glad to be of service.

It means you didn't start the car before turning the wheels lock to lock. Its normal. You shouldn't turn the steering wheel without the motor on and the pump spinning. The fluid will go in the direction of least resistance, which is out the pump reservoir otherwise. If you leave the cap on when you do it the fluid will shoot out the top pretty far too... ask me how I know. 🙂 Just make sure the clean it up with brake clean really well. Especially make sure the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipes are clean. You don't want it smoking or possibly catching fire, nor do you want some drips making it look like a leak when there isn't one. Good luck!

@@petrocksgarage I see. I had just put in a new rack in my stang was doing the flush and thought I messed up. Thanks, appreciate it.

@@Thatsn95girl, no problem. Enjoy the new handling!

No problem. Glad to be of service.

Uh... ok.

So applying grease to stop the bubbles, as shown in the video a few moments later, did not solve the air bubble problem for you? Thats literally the main point of the video. But in the end, use whatever method you like. There is more than one way to do most jobs.

@@petrocksgarage I did exactly this. Bubbles would sometimes go away but not always. Leaves you guessing if it's the threads or real bubbles. Just sucked for me.

It sometimes takes some finesse to seal up the base of the screw, especially if the screw is loose & wiggly. Sorry it didn't work for you, but glad to hear you got it done in the end. And I like the (unintended) pun at the end. This job does suck.

No problem. Glad to be of service. IMO, the age of how-to videos doesn't matter. If the information in it is still helpful then the video is timeless. It's not like the method to change the oil on a 30yr old truck is going to change anytime soon. It's not like a current events, pop culture or political video that ages out within hours sometimes.

No problem. Glad to be of service. Rubbing alcohol, or (better yet) electrical contact cleaner will work.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. Sadly, I don't have a video on fork seals. The seals on my bike are working fine, so I have not had to replace them (yet). When/if I do start to leak I will be making a video about it.

Great vid, one question. My 1994 softail doesn't have a dip stick. Would 22 fluid Oz be sufficient? Or should I purchase an after market plug?

@@rudeboyfood1755Holmes Thanks a lot, I appreciate it. I would check out the capacity and full-ness procedure in your year bikes owners manual (or service manual if you have one). Different years & models have different capacities and methods to check the level (i.e. on kickstand vs not). If you don't have an owners manual, it might be available on HD's web site, from your local dealer or an HD forum. The trans on your bike is a different case & part than mine (Evo vs V-Twin) that the capacity is likely different. Good luck.

No problem. Glad to be of service.

No problem. Glad to be of service.

I'm not sure what you're talking about, but around @8:18 you can see the part number on the bottom of the box I use as a funnel and its kn171b. Also, the exploded view of the filter on K&N's web site clearly shows the rubber blow-back thing on the kn171b filter that you are saying shouldn't be there. Also also, the specifications for the kn171b on the web site state it has the 'Anti Drain Back Valve'. Per the K&N web site the kn171b is the correct filter for my bike ('06 HD FXSTBI). The kn170b is listed for Sportsters, pretty much exclusively. www.knfilters.com/kn-170-oil-filter www.knfilters.com/kn-171b-oil-filter

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my videos are helping you out.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.

Why do you say that? Please elaborate. Either way, the toe is going to be off, and you'll need an alignment, even if you use the same number if turns.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

No problem. Glad to be of service.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

@@kerryfromaj9032 good luck!!!

Yeah, its pretty handy for more than just brakes too.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it,

Yeah, these calipers catch everyone off guard the first time. Including myself. I'm glad my video helped you out.

@@petrocksgaragehelp a lot ✌️

@@jacasan2000 Glad to be of service.

I'm not sure. It depends how it broke. Super-glue or JB-Weld it back on? Good luck!!!

@@petrocksgarage Thanks for getting back.

@@tippimail1 no problem. hope you get it sorted out. Good luck.

Thats not a big deal actually and you don't need a new door. :-) You have a couple options: - Find/buy a used window from your local junk yard/pick-n-pull - Buy some window glue and glue the bracket back onto the window. Search for 'Window Weld' and you'll find a bunch of options that some autocrats stores carry. The key is in the preparation. The better you prepare the surfaces the better the glue will hold. Don't rush or skimp on the prep work. Good luck.

Mine did that, I it fixed with some JB clear weld glue epoxy, not the regular JB weld. There is also a guy on ebay who sells a new window with a better attachment system. You drill out the rivets get your old window out and replace it using 1/4-20 1/2" bolts to attach to the window regulator. So far my glue job works. Prep is key, get all the old glue off the window and out of the bracket, use goo gone, razor blade etc. Then alcohol clean and glue it together. I let it set 2 days.

Thanks for the tips!

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Convertible tops don't last forever, so it's very likely that it has been replaced at one point or another in the cars lifetime. The fabric doesn't really control the form it takes. It's the frame it is attached to. If I understand you correctly, when you open/close the door the window still catches on the top, right? That definitely sounds like an alignment issue. Check that the side rails are not bent, damaged or loose, also make sure the brackets are not bent. Other than that I'm not sure. I'd have to look inside the door. Good luck.

@@petrocksgarage You're right, the window still catches on the top when I shut the doors. I didn't think about the rails being bent, I'll check that after I get her back; I blew a coolant hose (brittle plastic the hose went over actually), so she's at the shop right now. Thanks for the suggestions, I will look into it again after I have her back!

Good luck. Hope you get it sorted out.,

Glad to be of service. Pay it forward and good luck!

​@@petrocksgarageI just have a question now that I've done everything that you instructed, my issue is that the grab point I guess is too soon like it jumps right into gear when I grab the clutch like I want more play in it how do I get more play in and is it at the cable or in the clutch basket??

​@@petrocksgaragethis is on an 02 road glide

​ @jerseytorres4454 , so when the clutch lever is pulled all the way into the grip and you start to let it out slowly the clutch starts to grab sooner then you'd like? Or when you aren't touching the clutch lever, and then start to pull the lever towards the grip the clutch starts to slip right away? If the former the fix is likely in the clutch pack. If the latter, it's likely in the cable.

@@petrocksgarage it was the first, and thanks to you the problem is solved. Thanks for getting back to me, super helpful- I'll be telling my buds to check you out for their bike repair diy instructionals! Rock on!!

I use regular chassis grease. I'm not familiar with the grease you use, but if you can slather it on and it doesn't run off it should be fine. You want a little bit of stickiness to it so it stays in place. If you still have air coming in at the base then apply more grease or smoosh the existing grease in more. Also make sure the hose isn't loose on the bleeder screw. You can test it by seeing if your setup can hold vacuum while the bleeder is fully closed. Good luck.

Yup.

If the original gears were not damaged or broken, then they are not your problem. Yes, there is an electrical component that sends power to the odometer/trip meter motor in the cluster. It's one of the many wires going into the connector on the back of the cluster. Different year mustangs have different connector configurations, so I can't tell you which wire to look at first. Good luck.

Sorry, I don't remember where I bought it. Probably on amazon. Search for "Cable Luber Tool". I saw a couple from BikeMaster & Tusk with a single screw that look promising. Good luck.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

Gravity & Murphy are cruel mistresses.

Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.

No, nothing special. I always have a grease gun of generic chassis grease laying around that I use for this purpose (and to grease ball joints etc).