In a world where UA-cam is being taken over ai/robo channels; finding your thoughtful and informative channel is like an oasis in the desert. Thank you for doing what you do!
Pet Rock, I am so thankful for this video!! I just replaced my power steering rack and pinion on my 1994 Mustang by watching your video step by step! My two friends took it off on the first night, the second night we put it back in, and tonight we put the tie rod ends and tires back and test drove it. I am so thankful to God for you bro! I pray that He blesses your family, your life, and that He would reveal Himself to you in a special way. Share Your Bright Light!! -Derrick
This is an outstanding video. Probably the best video I've ever seen on you tube about anything. I am a Ford certified tech and have done these on many vehicles, and this is training worthy. Well done sir.
Just wanted to say, thank you for this video. I have a 95 GT and was dreading getting into this job, my rack was falling apart. This video really helped ease my mind and I was able to do it fairly easy. Glad I came across your channel. Thank you for all of the videos.
Great video, very helpful. Just did it today on my 2003 V6. No major issues; bleeding anything is a pain, this is no less. Took a minute to get the rack and steering linkage lined up but plenty of room to maneuver it. Watched and rewatched the video as I went and took pictures of everything as well. Now off to the shop to get her aligned. Thanks again!
You are the best. I tried replacing the high pressure line but couldn't get my hands to get a bite on the threads. Now I see I'll need use everything you so expertly demonstrated. Except I may need to see who can loan me a torque wrench.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. You can rent a torque wrench from most auto parts stores. You get 100% of your money back when you return the tool. Good luck.
btw, if you are just replacing the high pressure line you don't have to touch the tie rod ends. Just unbolt the rack from the subframe, pop it off its mounting posts, drop it down a little and support it with some jack stands. That should give you enough clearance to get access to the hex end of the high pressure line going into the rack. This way you don't need an alignment afterwards. Good luck.
Very well done sir! Saved me a ton of cash. Easy to follow. I loved the detail you put in for the spots you anticipated folks would be stuck on trying to perform.
I got stuck on installing the steering onto the rack. I dont know what it was but I just couldnt get it. It was one of those things where I kept trying and trying like an idiot. Took 5 mins break and went after it again and it popped right on! Definitely operator error. Dunce moment. Car is good. No leaks. No pump whine. I saved some dough. Thanks again!
Nice video. I have swapped my 88 GT rack several times, replace a stock, then a FR manual, then a stock, and now finally an 03 GT rack rebuilt at turn one. I have lost count of the threads long ago. I cannot find anywhere that shows how to figure out the count of turns starting from scratch, not counting off the old rack for the tie rod ends. also is the count supposed to be the same on each side.? I've got a great rack now, just need to get it set right. Thanks, I think this is the best video I've found on doing a rack.!!
If you get the rack centered with the tie rod ends disconnected you can then eyeball the number of turns to get the wheels to point straight-ish. You'll never get it perfect or properly aligned yourself. Just get it so you can drive it immediately to your local alignment shop and have them do the rest. You can tell if the rack is centered by measuring the length of the bellows boot on either end of the rack. They should be roughly equal when centered. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Thanks for the video! I was wondering if you would know… today while changing my control arm. I took the control arm bolt out and nicked the bellows boot and oil/fluid dripped out of the boot. Is there supposed to be oil in that boot or is the rack leaking ?
@@petrocksgarage Oh it definitely will. Finished up the control arms and springs today. There was brown fluid coming from the rack boot. Weird thing is the pwr steering fluid is still full but the brake fluid seemed below the full mark. Is there anyway brake fluid can mix with the power steering with the hydro boost system?
@@jamesa6272, I'd be extremely surprised if brake fluid was getting into the power steering system or vise versa. The only way I can think of it happening is if some lines/hoses were mixed up. The power steering lines shouldn't go anywhere near the brake booster. I'm not aware of a Hydro-Boost being available on '79-'04 Mustangs from the factory, but there are aftermarket kits around apparently. Either way, does the fluid that came out look anything like the fluid in the power steering reservoir? If not, then are you sure it was oil that came out and not dirty water? If it was dirty water, then you don't need to replace the rack. Just the boots and the clamps holding them on.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I also watch videos of projects I know how to do. You never know if a new technique or tool is available to make the job easier or some new gotcha to look out for.
As long as the intermediate shaft is connected to the rack and pinion, is it possible to break the clock spring? For instance, lets say you have both outer tie rods off, but with the shaft still connected to the steering gear; if you turn the wheel, will the rack and pinion stop it at full lock? I'm kinda scared because I turned the wheel before I went to release the passenger-side tie rod, and it almost felt as though it turned past full lock. (The driver's side tie rod had been removed already.)
If you have the steering wheel connected to the steering rack then the clock spring should be safe (assuming it was installed correctly). The steering rack can only go so far in either direction, so I think you are ok. Just recenter everything and strap down the steering wheel before you disconnect the intermediate steering shaft. Good luck.
Thanks for the video - I'm doing this, soon, with my Crown Victoria, but I'm a bit nervous around the serpentine belt; can't I just have someone turn the engine over while I'm standing by with fluid that's ready to pour into the reservoir? I'm then thinking of bleeding the system afterwards, by removing the cap on the reservoir and turning the wheels left and right (engine running, wheels off the ground).
Don't be nervous about the serpentine belt. They are super easy to get on/off. I haven't worked on a Crown Vic in a while, but if memory serves, there is TONS of room in the engine bay to get your arm down there with a wrench to turn the tensioner to get the belt off. Just make sure not to let go of the wrench and let the tensioner snap back after you remove the belt. You could damage the tensioner. There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood with the belt rout on it. If not, take a picture before taking it off, or draw it on some paper so you don't forget. I wouldn't bump the motor to bleed the system. I think I mention that in the video. Even a quick pump will turn it over a couple hundred times and can quickly drain the reservoir. That will let air into the system and you'll have to start bleeding all over again. Its easier to do it by hand like I show in the video.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks for the reply. I'll try dealing with the belt. What I wonder is how tight to torque the tensioner once I am finished. Also, once I have the required amount of fluid in the system, isn't it still a good idea to bleed the system with the aforementioned method?
@@petrocksgarage Again, many thanks for the video and your help. I feel more confident to get on and do the job now. Of course we all have time on our hands as we go through this difficult time with Coronavirus. Take care, stay safe, stay home. This will pass.
Like most things it all depends on where you buy them and the quality of the parts. I buy from a variety of places. Whichever is cheaper or has it in stock locally. www.rockauto.com is a good place to start if you don't mind waiting for the parts to be shipped, then compare the parts to your local auto parts stores to see which is cheaper. If you absolutely need the parts now your best choice is your local auto parts stores. Good luck.
Where’s the best place to get a new complete rack and pinion assembly?? I have a 2004 3.9 Mustang and I see different prices on the assembly..What do you recommend as a fair price to pay?? Or where would you recommend I purchase from?
There is no 'best place'. They all get the part from somewhere else. I've used Cardone & Autozone/Duralast remanufactured racks on this car. The Autozone one has been in the car for a number of years and I have no complaints. Keep in mind that some places have a core charge/deposit, so you send your old rack back to them for a refund. Wherever you get it from (rockauto.com, Autozone, Napa, etc) make sure they have a warranty and know what the warranty covers in case it starts to leak. Leaking shortly after install is a common issue with reman racks. Good luck.
Great video. I'm doing a rack in pinion on my 95 mustang gt. I managed to get it off, but didn't hear the part where u said NOT to turn the steering wheel. So I lost track of where its center is. How would I get it centered again without messing up the clock spring? I have not put in the new rack and pinion yet.
That is a very good question. The clock spring is pretty fragile. It doesn't take much to break it. One P.I.T.A., but sure fire, method would be to remove the clock spring, center the clock spring rotor, center the wheel and then re-install everything. Make sure to disconnect the airbag fuse so it doesn't accidentally go off in your face while you are working. There might be another way that I'm not aware of though. If you find an easier way I'd be interesting in knowing how to do it. Good luck.
Very good Video. Can't think of anything you missed. Also a question. My steering on my 2000 GT Mustang is getting stiff. What would you recommend for figuring out what's wrong? I turned the steering wheel side-to-side at least ten times to purge any air and also checked the reservoir. It's the original gear and never has been touched.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re: stiff steering, it sounds like your power steering pump is on its way out, or you might have a collapsed power steering line between the rack & pump. The high pressure lines are notorious for collapsing internally over a long period of time, but looking normal on the outside. If your lines are over 10 years old, I would consider replacing them. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks. Actually, a few hours ago I learned there is a steering shaft u-joint on the car and that it could be freezing up. I found it and sprayed with a lightweight lubricant and then went for a drive. It may have solved the problem because the steering is way better and after turning the wheel and letting go, it centers back. But take some credit because your video got me going on this! So do you think it will stay freed-up or do I need to have it replaced?
@@ninemilliondollars, interesting. I wouldn't have thought the steering shaft joint would have caused your problem. Glad you figured it out. Who knows if it will last. But I'd just keep an eye on it. If it starts binding up again, I'd replace it. Apparently you can replace just the u-joint. At least the part is available on RockAuto.com. Good luck.
The small rod at the front of the rack, do you have any idea what it is? The same part fell out of mine, so trying to see if it is replaceable, or detrimental to the rack and pinion.
If you mean the rod that goes into the little knub on both bellows boots on either side of the rack? If so that is a vent rod. When you turn the wheel, the bellows boot on one side collapses and the other side expands. The rod equalizes the air inside them so it doesn't produce a vacuum. I wouldn't leave them open for long. You don't want water/dirt getting in the boot and messing things up. I would try to find a replacement if you can't find yours. Maybe a junk yard? These racks are pretty common, and used in a lot of different model fords for many years. So you should be able to find one fairly easily. Good luck.
Hi, so far so good. Got to the part of removing the two bolts securing the rack to the frame. The bolts on my 1996 3.8 are reversed. i.e bolt heads at the rack bushings with the nuts behind the frame. Is this normal ? or is it possible someone has changed the rack before - somewhat unlikely as relatively low mileage, although after 23 years it could be possible.
No, that's not normal or factory spec as far as I am aware. Someone must have either replaced or removed the rack on your car at some point. There are tons of reasons a rack could have been unbolted let alone replaced. e.g. accident repair, to gain access to some other component, someone thinking they new better, etc etc. The list goes on. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just put it back the right way when you are done. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Yep, I did figure that your video was the way it should be - thanks for the confirmation. Whoever did it didn't have your video to show the way it should be done. I ran out of daylight here in Spain. So will finish of tomorrow . Just got to add the ATF - following you instructions. Again, many thanks.
What was the reason you had to replace the "re-manufactured" rack & pinion? You replaced the tie rod ends 6 months prior. And why did you use the same manufacturer? Either way, awesome video. Thank you! John
I replaced it because it was leaking. I used the same manufacturer because the part was available in the time frame I needed it, and its no-ones fault when a seal starts to leak. It just happens. I don't have brand loyalty when it comes to parts.
@@petrocksgarage ; Again, I thank you. My son has a 98 Mustang GT. Fluid has been dripping the last couple of years. It has the original unit with 186,000. So it's time. If a part is a shoddy rebuild, I would consider a different brand. You replaced the factory unit. Then tie rod ends, 6 months later, the whole unit. Yeah, I'd consider a different brand. I'm not being a smart ass. Your video is the best tool. John
@@cobracharmer6178, yeah, it does sound like it's time for your sons rack. Re-brands: I haven't had to replace the rack since I filled this video, which was actually a few years ago. But choose whichever manufacturer you like. Also, tie rod ends don't come with the rack. I think you might be thinking of inner tie rods, which are a different animal completely.
Not all o-rings are created equal. They would need to be able to resist ATF fluid, which can deteriorate some plastics/rubbers. It also has to withstand high pressure, which not all rubber o-rings can. So in short use the nylon o-rings. They should come with your new rack.
@@petrocksgarage Many thanks, a closer look in the package and I found them. Almost ready to do the job now I have watched you super video a couple of times. Some nice tips there so should not have any surprises. Great video. Now subscribed.
Hi question is why did you change the rack I want to know if I need a rack on my 1996 mustang my problem is when I turn the streering wheel the rack gets a poping sounds
@@brown8493, I replaced it because it was leaking. Before condemning the rack, make sure the popping is not coming from the tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, steering shaft or anything else that might get hung up as you turn. Shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose with a friend turning the wheel back & forth as you look underneath looking for any movement that shouldn't be there. Good luck.
this is a great video! changing my rack on '95 MUSTANG GT. going with a Flaming River power rack. I have a question tho. My old rack was missing the input shaft dust boot , which you say to swap to new rack. I have called Flaming River, my new one didn't come with one, they say I don't need with theirs? Ive tried to search the part out, I think its difficult to get. Do you have any idea of a part # or where I might order? or should I just install, as Flaming River says, without it?
I'm not familiar with Flaming River power racks. The dust boot just helps protect the input shaft seals from debris to help prevent damage & leaks. I'm not sure on a part number, but you might be able to find one in a junk yard. However, if Flaming River says you don't need it with their racks then you can probably just install it without it. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thank you, for taking the time answer my question. That's what im going to do. I'll install without as I can't find anyone who even knows what im taking about. LOL
Heat is your friend. Heat up the part of the knuckle that the tie rod goes through. It will likely melt the tie rod end boot, so the tie rod end will need to be replaced. If you don't have a torch, you can pick one up at your local hardware store or home improvement box store for around $30. Well worth the money, IMO. Good luck.
@@dinadeira, good luck. You'll want MAP gas (yellow canister). It runs hotter than propane (blue canister). Get the knuckle part nice and hot (does not need to be glowing) and then hit it with a hammer. Biggest hammer you can get your hands on. I use a mini-sledge hammer. That should knock it loose. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage worked like a charm! Power steering rack has been changed out, and it no longer sounds like beehive in my engine bay, thanks again! :D
My 97 gt has light or sensative steering. When you replaced the rack did it firm up the steering at all? I want to firm up my steering wheel but I do not know if a new/reman rack is the answer.
I'm not sure what you mean by light or sensitive steering. Most people don't want much, if any, resistance when turning the steering wheel. So sensitive steering is often the desired effect. A stiff/firm steering wheel is typically a sign of a bad power steering pump.
@@petrocksgarage I had a 03 mustang with firm steering this 97 is like the older Gm’s. Can turn the steering wheel very easily… I replaced ball joints/ inner/outer tie rods, brand new steering shaft, brand nee rack bushings. Reman rack was put in 7 years ago. Was thinking about just putting in another rack hoping to firm it up.
@@jamesa6272 it honestly sounds like you're used to your old '03 mustang, which likely had/has a bad power steering pump. You should be happy that the steering is nice and easy and that the steering system is working as designed in your new (to you) '97 mustang. It is expected/desirable that you should be able to turn the steering wheel with a couple fingers. The only way that I can think of to make the steering wheel harder to turn is to do a Power Steering Delete of some kind. Maybe with a shorter serpentine belt that bypasses the power steering pulley? I'm not sure. I've never done one. I also wouldn't recommend it so do it at your own risk. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage with the amount of tramlining this 97 convertible does coupled up to the loose/sensative steering(with no play) it feels dangerous while driving. It felt good when I put the ball joints in when they were tight but as they broke in the sensitive steering feel came back.
@@jamesa6272, could one of the ball joints gone bad? Tram-lining, with no play in the steering wheel, is often due to tire tread. Some tires track the grooves in the road more than others. Are the tires different between your '03 and '97?
im pretty sure my pump went out yesterday, i was doing a 3 point turn and the steering wheel got stuck. If i tried to turn it would just whine so i just forced it so i could get the car out of the middle of the road but my steering is stiff unless im going 40-50
There are many different signs. Oil leaking out is the most common. The wheel sticking in spots when turning and other mechanical issues are less common but can occur. Hope that helps.
Doing very well. Installed a 6-speed trans a few months back (no video though, sorry). Absolutely love it and kick myself for not doing it 80-90k miles ago. Put 400 miles on it up in the mountains the first day. Only problem I had was forgetting that I had a 6th gear to play with on open stretches. :-)
GREAT VIDEO as always!!! I have a question, My 20 GT has really stiff steering, but no noise at all when steering. How do I know if it is my pump, rack, or both? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
Its most likely the pump. But to verify, I would jack the front of the car up off the ground, start the car and rotate the steering wheel back and forth a few times. If it is still hard to turn then the problem is in the rack, tie rod ends, ball joints, possibly the struts (if your year has mcpherson struts like older years) or a combination of those. But if it is nice and smooth, then the problem is the pump. Your car is a 2020, so it should still be under warranty, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them fix it for free. Good luck.
I don't have access to that vintage mustang at the moment, but if memory serves from when I worked on my brother-in-laws '07 GT500 some years ago, the rack is set up very similar to the Fox Body & SN95 mustang racks for this video. So this video should be able to get you the majority of the steps & info you need. Good luck.
Make Sure to put those washers on the high and low pressure lines on flush because if you re-use the old ones you will feel air blowing from the hood once you start the vehicle haha
The low pressure line doesn't have washers. Its just straight hose. But yes, the washers are 'one time use' only and need to be replaced if you remove the high pressure line. I get the feeling that there is a good story behind how you came upon this nugget of knowledge. :-)
No I don't. I've never really had a need for one. In this case spinning the power steering pump pulley, like I show in the video, will prime it quite nicely.
Sorry, I haven't edited it yet. In short, disconnect the low pressure hose from the rack and plug it with the ceramic end of an old spark plug or similar object. Put one end of another fuel line hose (or similar) on the low pressure tube on the rack and the other into a clear plastic bottle. Then pull up the reservoir with fluid, rotate the power steering pulley with a wrench like I show in the video. Stop before the fluid gets too low. Fill it again and repeat the process until clean fresh fluid comes out into the clear bottle. Then remove the extra hose and put the low pressure line back on and fill up the reservoir. Then start the car and make sure there are no leaks. Hope that helps.
@@petrocksgarage ahh very kind, took it to a shop my buddy works at. Figured id be getting a steering alignment anyways and could not get the steering shaft disconnected.
That rust belt is called rust belt because industry died out not for weather conditions. Things will rust here in Florida or anywhere in the country depending on the amount of iron that gets oxygenated. The whole country is almost on even terms as far as potential to rust.
I've lived in a number of states over the years. Everything rusts near the ocean. Nothing rusts inland in Southern/Middle California, Arizona and Nevada. Everything rusts north east of Pennsylvania. Especially in places with a lot of snow and/or use salt on their roads. Either way, you are right re why its called the rust belt. I'll make sure to clean that up in future videos. Thanks.
I've had hit/miss with Cardone. In this case, I had to get the car up and running quickly, so I got it from my local AutoZone. I think it was their Duralast brand reman rack.
Thanks for the tip. I'm not a professional speaker or video editor, so I assume hearing/seeing the cuts & splicing is better than hearing ummms & uhhhs. You can please some of the people all of the time, you can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time.
In a world where UA-cam is being taken over ai/robo channels; finding your thoughtful and informative channel is like an oasis in the desert. Thank you for doing what you do!
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.
I am sure you have no idea just how much you actually help other guys get their shyt done!
Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I make these videos to help people. Pay it forward.
Pet Rock, I am so thankful for this video!! I just replaced my power steering rack and pinion on my 1994 Mustang by watching your video step by step! My two friends took it off on the first night, the second night we put it back in, and tonight we put the tie rod ends and tires back and test drove it. I am so thankful to God for you bro! I pray that He blesses your family, your life, and that He would reveal Himself to you in a special way. Share Your Bright Light!! -Derrick
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
This is an outstanding video. Probably the best video I've ever seen on you tube about anything. I am a Ford certified tech and have done these on many vehicles, and this is training worthy. Well done sir.
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate it.
Just wanted to say, thank you for this video. I have a 95 GT and was dreading getting into this job, my rack was falling apart. This video really helped ease my mind and I was able to do it fairly easy. Glad I came across your channel. Thank you for all of the videos.
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
😅It. loo8vv88gy77gfcgcccg
Great video, very helpful. Just did it today on my 2003 V6. No major issues; bleeding anything is a pain, this is no less. Took a minute to get the rack and steering linkage lined up but plenty of room to maneuver it. Watched and rewatched the video as I went and took pictures of everything as well. Now off to the shop to get her aligned. Thanks again!
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for (re)watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Sweet. As always thanks for the video. Us young guys gotta learn somehow and it helps when it's free and a quality guide.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Pay it forward.
nice video. nice explained 😊😊😊
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
This is absolutely beautiful!! Dude knows what's up!! Thank you so much!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
You are the best. I tried replacing the high pressure line but couldn't get my hands to get a bite on the threads. Now I see I'll need use everything you so expertly demonstrated. Except I may need to see who can loan me a torque wrench.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. You can rent a torque wrench from most auto parts stores. You get 100% of your money back when you return the tool. Good luck.
btw, if you are just replacing the high pressure line you don't have to touch the tie rod ends. Just unbolt the rack from the subframe, pop it off its mounting posts, drop it down a little and support it with some jack stands. That should give you enough clearance to get access to the hex end of the high pressure line going into the rack. This way you don't need an alignment afterwards. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thanks
@@georgelogreco8810 no problem.
Thank u bro for real for real... couldn’t get anybody to work on my car, this saved me time money and headaches
Glad to be of service. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Very well done sir! Saved me a ton of cash. Easy to follow. I loved the detail you put in for the spots you anticipated folks would be stuck on trying to perform.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Awesome video thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome job
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I got stuck on installing the steering onto the rack. I dont know what it was but I just couldnt get it. It was one of those things where I kept trying and trying like an idiot. Took 5 mins break and went after it again and it popped right on! Definitely operator error. Dunce moment. Car is good. No leaks. No pump whine. I saved some dough. Thanks again!
Everyone has moments of genius & stupidity. Brag about the former. Learn from & laugh about the latter. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
Great video, super informative and in depth, as well as straightforward. Thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I’m 21 broke and really needed to find this video gracias bruh
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great upload! Thanks 👍👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome video. Thanks for your hard work! It save me a great amount of time!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice video. I have swapped my 88 GT rack several times, replace a stock, then a FR manual, then a stock, and now finally an 03 GT rack rebuilt at turn one. I have lost count of the threads long ago.
I cannot find anywhere that shows how to figure out the count of turns starting from scratch, not counting off the old rack for the tie rod ends. also is the count supposed to be the same on each side.?
I've got a great rack now, just need to get it set right.
Thanks, I think this is the best video I've found on doing a rack.!!
If you get the rack centered with the tie rod ends disconnected you can then eyeball the number of turns to get the wheels to point straight-ish. You'll never get it perfect or properly aligned yourself. Just get it so you can drive it immediately to your local alignment shop and have them do the rest.
You can tell if the rack is centered by measuring the length of the bellows boot on either end of the rack. They should be roughly equal when centered. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Giving my like for the cat special appearance! great video non the less!
Thanks a lot. Vinnie & I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video! I was wondering if you would know… today while changing my control arm. I took the control arm bolt out and nicked the bellows boot and oil/fluid dripped out of the boot. Is there supposed to be oil in that boot or is the rack leaking ?
No, there shouldn't be any oil in the boot. Your rack is leaking and needs to be replaced. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thank you
@@jamesa6272 No problem. Good luck. Hopefully my video helps you out.
@@petrocksgarage Oh it definitely will. Finished up the control arms and springs today. There was brown fluid coming from the rack boot. Weird thing is the pwr steering fluid is still full but the brake fluid seemed below the full mark. Is there anyway brake fluid can mix with the power steering with the hydro boost system?
@@jamesa6272, I'd be extremely surprised if brake fluid was getting into the power steering system or vise versa. The only way I can think of it happening is if some lines/hoses were mixed up. The power steering lines shouldn't go anywhere near the brake booster. I'm not aware of a Hydro-Boost being available on '79-'04 Mustangs from the factory, but there are aftermarket kits around apparently.
Either way, does the fluid that came out look anything like the fluid in the power steering reservoir? If not, then are you sure it was oil that came out and not dirty water? If it was dirty water, then you don't need to replace the rack. Just the boots and the clamps holding them on.
Excellent job. You covered it all.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I can replace this part with my eyes closed but that's a great video with additional details i might miss thank u
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I also watch videos of projects I know how to do. You never know if a new technique or tool is available to make the job easier or some new gotcha to look out for.
As long as the intermediate shaft is connected to the rack and pinion, is it possible to break the clock spring? For instance, lets say you have both outer tie rods off, but with the shaft still connected to the steering gear; if you turn the wheel, will the rack and pinion stop it at full lock? I'm kinda scared because I turned the wheel before I went to release the passenger-side tie rod, and it almost felt as though it turned past full lock. (The driver's side tie rod had been removed already.)
If you have the steering wheel connected to the steering rack then the clock spring should be safe (assuming it was installed correctly). The steering rack can only go so far in either direction, so I think you are ok. Just recenter everything and strap down the steering wheel before you disconnect the intermediate steering shaft. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage That's what I was thinking: the steering rack definitely shouldn't go further than designed. Thank you for your response.
Thanks for the video - I'm doing this, soon, with my Crown Victoria, but I'm a bit nervous around the serpentine belt; can't I just have someone turn the engine over while I'm standing by with fluid that's ready to pour into the reservoir? I'm then thinking of bleeding the system afterwards, by removing the cap on the reservoir and turning the wheels left and right (engine running, wheels off the ground).
Don't be nervous about the serpentine belt. They are super easy to get on/off. I haven't worked on a Crown Vic in a while, but if memory serves, there is TONS of room in the engine bay to get your arm down there with a wrench to turn the tensioner to get the belt off. Just make sure not to let go of the wrench and let the tensioner snap back after you remove the belt. You could damage the tensioner. There should be a sticker on the underside of the hood with the belt rout on it. If not, take a picture before taking it off, or draw it on some paper so you don't forget.
I wouldn't bump the motor to bleed the system. I think I mention that in the video. Even a quick pump will turn it over a couple hundred times and can quickly drain the reservoir. That will let air into the system and you'll have to start bleeding all over again. Its easier to do it by hand like I show in the video.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks for the reply.
I'll try dealing with the belt. What I wonder is how tight to torque the tensioner once I am finished. Also, once I have the required amount of fluid in the system, isn't it still a good idea to bleed the system with the aforementioned method?
Many thanks. I'll check the packaging. Regards from Spain.
No problem. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Yep ! I found them in a little bag. One other question: Can I use Valvoline ATF DEX/MERC when refilling?
@@mikethorogood8085, yes, it should work fine in your power steering system.
@@petrocksgarage Again, many thanks for the video and your help. I feel more confident to get on and do the job now. Of course we all have time on our hands as we go through this difficult time with Coronavirus. Take care, stay safe, stay home. This will pass.
I’m fairly new to stuff like this can you tell me about how much it would be to get all the parts
Like most things it all depends on where you buy them and the quality of the parts. I buy from a variety of places. Whichever is cheaper or has it in stock locally. www.rockauto.com is a good place to start if you don't mind waiting for the parts to be shipped, then compare the parts to your local auto parts stores to see which is cheaper. If you absolutely need the parts now your best choice is your local auto parts stores. Good luck.
Where’s the best place to get a new complete rack and pinion assembly?? I have a 2004 3.9 Mustang and I see different prices on the assembly..What do you recommend as a fair price to pay?? Or where would you recommend I purchase from?
There is no 'best place'. They all get the part from somewhere else. I've used Cardone & Autozone/Duralast remanufactured racks on this car. The Autozone one has been in the car for a number of years and I have no complaints. Keep in mind that some places have a core charge/deposit, so you send your old rack back to them for a refund. Wherever you get it from (rockauto.com, Autozone, Napa, etc) make sure they have a warranty and know what the warranty covers in case it starts to leak. Leaking shortly after install is a common issue with reman racks. Good luck.
Great video. I'm doing a rack in pinion on my 95 mustang gt. I managed to get it off, but didn't hear the part where u said NOT to turn the steering wheel. So I lost track of where its center is. How would I get it centered again without messing up the clock spring? I have not put in the new rack and pinion yet.
That is a very good question. The clock spring is pretty fragile. It doesn't take much to break it. One P.I.T.A., but sure fire, method would be to remove the clock spring, center the clock spring rotor, center the wheel and then re-install everything. Make sure to disconnect the airbag fuse so it doesn't accidentally go off in your face while you are working. There might be another way that I'm not aware of though. If you find an easier way I'd be interesting in knowing how to do it. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thank you so much. I have been looking online and can't find any other way. I will try this later. Great videos and tips.
@@code494, no problem. Good luck.
ty for making this video, very helpful
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Very good Video. Can't think of anything you missed. Also a question. My steering on my 2000 GT Mustang is getting stiff. What would you recommend for figuring out what's wrong? I turned the steering wheel side-to-side at least ten times to purge any air and also checked the reservoir. It's the original gear and never has been touched.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Re: stiff steering, it sounds like your power steering pump is on its way out, or you might have a collapsed power steering line between the rack & pump. The high pressure lines are notorious for collapsing internally over a long period of time, but looking normal on the outside. If your lines are over 10 years old, I would consider replacing them. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks. Actually, a few hours ago I learned there is a steering shaft u-joint on the car and that it could be freezing up. I found it and sprayed with a lightweight lubricant and then went for a drive. It may have solved the problem because the steering is way better and after turning the wheel and letting go, it centers back. But take some credit because your video got me going on this! So do you think it will stay freed-up or do I need to have it replaced?
@@ninemilliondollars, interesting. I wouldn't have thought the steering shaft joint would have caused your problem. Glad you figured it out. Who knows if it will last. But I'd just keep an eye on it. If it starts binding up again, I'd replace it. Apparently you can replace just the u-joint. At least the part is available on RockAuto.com. Good luck.
Rick solid video! Thank you!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
The small rod at the front of the rack, do you have any idea what it is? The same part fell out of mine, so trying to see if it is replaceable, or detrimental to the rack and pinion.
If you mean the rod that goes into the little knub on both bellows boots on either side of the rack? If so that is a vent rod. When you turn the wheel, the bellows boot on one side collapses and the other side expands. The rod equalizes the air inside them so it doesn't produce a vacuum. I wouldn't leave them open for long. You don't want water/dirt getting in the boot and messing things up. I would try to find a replacement if you can't find yours. Maybe a junk yard? These racks are pretty common, and used in a lot of different model fords for many years. So you should be able to find one fairly easily. Good luck.
Thank for this video you are my hero
Thanks. Glad to be of service.
Hi, so far so good. Got to the part of removing the two bolts securing the rack to the frame. The bolts on my 1996 3.8 are reversed. i.e bolt heads at the rack bushings with the nuts behind the frame. Is this normal ? or is it possible someone has changed the rack before - somewhat unlikely as relatively low mileage, although after 23 years it could be possible.
No, that's not normal or factory spec as far as I am aware. Someone must have either replaced or removed the rack on your car at some point. There are tons of reasons a rack could have been unbolted let alone replaced. e.g. accident repair, to gain access to some other component, someone thinking they new better, etc etc. The list goes on. I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just put it back the right way when you are done. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Yep, I did figure that your video was the way it should be - thanks for the confirmation. Whoever did it didn't have your video to show the way it should be done. I ran out of daylight here in Spain. So will finish of tomorrow . Just got to add the ATF - following you instructions. Again, many thanks.
@@mikethorogood8085. Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
What was the reason you had to replace the "re-manufactured" rack & pinion? You replaced the tie rod ends 6 months prior. And why did you use the same manufacturer? Either way, awesome video. Thank you! John
I replaced it because it was leaking. I used the same manufacturer because the part was available in the time frame I needed it, and its no-ones fault when a seal starts to leak. It just happens. I don't have brand loyalty when it comes to parts.
@@petrocksgarage ; Again, I thank you. My son has a 98 Mustang GT. Fluid has been dripping the last couple of years. It has the original unit with 186,000. So it's time. If a part is a shoddy rebuild, I would consider a different brand. You replaced the factory unit. Then tie rod ends, 6 months later, the whole unit. Yeah, I'd consider a different brand. I'm not being a smart ass. Your video is the best tool. John
@@cobracharmer6178, yeah, it does sound like it's time for your sons rack. Re-brands: I haven't had to replace the rack since I filled this video, which was actually a few years ago. But choose whichever manufacturer you like. Also, tie rod ends don't come with the rack. I think you might be thinking of inner tie rods, which are a different animal completely.
Can I use regular rubber O rings, for the low & high pressure lines, or should I get nylon ones ?
Not all o-rings are created equal. They would need to be able to resist ATF fluid, which can deteriorate some plastics/rubbers. It also has to withstand high pressure, which not all rubber o-rings can. So in short use the nylon o-rings. They should come with your new rack.
@@petrocksgarage Many thanks, a closer look in the package and I found them. Almost ready to do the job now I have watched you super video a couple of times. Some nice tips there so should not have any surprises. Great video. Now subscribed.
Hi question is why did you change the rack I want to know if I need a rack on my 1996 mustang my problem is when I turn the streering wheel the rack gets a poping sounds
Turn left or right anyone can answer
@@brown8493, I replaced it because it was leaking. Before condemning the rack, make sure the popping is not coming from the tie rods, ball joints, control arm bushings, steering shaft or anything else that might get hung up as you turn. Shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose with a friend turning the wheel back & forth as you look underneath looking for any movement that shouldn't be there. Good luck.
this is a great video! changing my rack on '95 MUSTANG GT. going with a Flaming River power rack. I have a question tho. My old rack was missing the input shaft dust boot , which you say to swap to new rack. I have called Flaming River, my new one didn't come with one, they say I don't need with theirs? Ive tried to search the part out, I think its difficult to get. Do you have any idea of a part # or where I might order? or should I just install, as Flaming River says, without it?
I'm not familiar with Flaming River power racks. The dust boot just helps protect the input shaft seals from debris to help prevent damage & leaks. I'm not sure on a part number, but you might be able to find one in a junk yard. However, if Flaming River says you don't need it with their racks then you can probably just install it without it. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thank you, for taking the time answer my question. That's what im going to do. I'll install without as I can't find anyone who even knows what im taking about. LOL
@@JCCOLE1996 Sounds like a reasonable plan. Good luck.
Is this the same process for a 2010 ford mustang?
The part is slightly different (so nuts/bolts might be different sizes) but the the general process is the same.
@@petrocksgarage great, thanks!!
Any advice if one of the tie rod ends is refusing to come out? I've tried hammering and penetrating fluid
Heat is your friend. Heat up the part of the knuckle that the tie rod goes through. It will likely melt the tie rod end boot, so the tie rod end will need to be replaced. If you don't have a torch, you can pick one up at your local hardware store or home improvement box store for around $30. Well worth the money, IMO. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage I'll get one soon and try it, thank you for the quick response! Your videos have been very helpful :)
@@dinadeira, good luck. You'll want MAP gas (yellow canister). It runs hotter than propane (blue canister). Get the knuckle part nice and hot (does not need to be glowing) and then hit it with a hammer. Biggest hammer you can get your hands on. I use a mini-sledge hammer. That should knock it loose. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage worked like a charm! Power steering rack has been changed out, and it no longer sounds like beehive in my engine bay, thanks again! :D
My 97 gt has light or sensative steering. When you replaced the rack did it firm up the steering at all? I want to firm up my steering wheel but I do not know if a new/reman rack is the answer.
I'm not sure what you mean by light or sensitive steering. Most people don't want much, if any, resistance when turning the steering wheel. So sensitive steering is often the desired effect. A stiff/firm steering wheel is typically a sign of a bad power steering pump.
@@petrocksgarage I had a 03 mustang with firm steering this 97 is like the older Gm’s. Can turn the steering wheel very easily… I replaced ball joints/ inner/outer tie rods, brand new steering shaft, brand nee rack bushings. Reman rack was put in 7 years ago. Was thinking about just putting in another rack hoping to firm it up.
@@jamesa6272 it honestly sounds like you're used to your old '03 mustang, which likely had/has a bad power steering pump. You should be happy that the steering is nice and easy and that the steering system is working as designed in your new (to you) '97 mustang. It is expected/desirable that you should be able to turn the steering wheel with a couple fingers.
The only way that I can think of to make the steering wheel harder to turn is to do a Power Steering Delete of some kind. Maybe with a shorter serpentine belt that bypasses the power steering pulley? I'm not sure. I've never done one. I also wouldn't recommend it so do it at your own risk. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage with the amount of tramlining this 97 convertible does coupled up to the loose/sensative steering(with no play) it feels dangerous while driving. It felt good when I put the ball joints in when they were tight but as they broke in the sensitive steering feel came back.
@@jamesa6272, could one of the ball joints gone bad? Tram-lining, with no play in the steering wheel, is often due to tire tread. Some tires track the grooves in the road more than others. Are the tires different between your '03 and '97?
im pretty sure my pump went out yesterday, i was doing a 3 point turn and the steering wheel got stuck. If i tried to turn it would just whine so i just forced it so i could get the car out of the middle of the road but my steering is stiff unless im going 40-50
Yeah, that sounds like the pump. Good luck.
Would u have to get an alignment after?
Most definitely yes. I mention it a few times during the video.
Are all the rack & pinions the same 79-04
No, there are slight differences. But the procedure to replace them is the same.
Thanks Dawg!
No problem Bro
Good vid. Thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
How do you know when to replace the steering rack?
There are many different signs. Oil leaking out is the most common. The wheel sticking in spots when turning and other mechanical issues are less common but can occur. Hope that helps.
I was wondering why you were replacing your rack. What symptoms were you having?
It was leaking fluid.
How about on a 77 cobra
I WISH I could get my hands on one to work on. Just for the test drive alone.
How is the Nitetrain?
Doing very well. Installed a 6-speed trans a few months back (no video though, sorry). Absolutely love it and kick myself for not doing it 80-90k miles ago. Put 400 miles on it up in the mountains the first day. Only problem I had was forgetting that I had a 6th gear to play with on open stretches. :-)
GREAT VIDEO as always!!! I have a question, My 20 GT has really stiff steering, but no noise at all when steering. How do I know if it is my pump, rack, or both? Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
Its most likely the pump. But to verify, I would jack the front of the car up off the ground, start the car and rotate the steering wheel back and forth a few times. If it is still hard to turn then the problem is in the rack, tie rod ends, ball joints, possibly the struts (if your year has mcpherson struts like older years) or a combination of those. But if it is nice and smooth, then the problem is the pump. Your car is a 2020, so it should still be under warranty, I'd take it back to the dealer and have them fix it for free. Good luck.
Where did you order that power steering rack from? I can't find one for a 97' anywhere
rockauto.com, but Auto Zone & O'Reily's should have them too.
Have a 2007 mustang gt and can’t find a video anywhere for rack and pinion lol
I don't have access to that vintage mustang at the moment, but if memory serves from when I worked on my brother-in-laws '07 GT500 some years ago, the rack is set up very similar to the Fox Body & SN95 mustang racks for this video. So this video should be able to get you the majority of the steps & info you need. Good luck.
Make Sure to put those washers on the high and low pressure lines on flush because if you re-use the old ones you will feel air blowing from the hood once you start the vehicle haha
The low pressure line doesn't have washers. Its just straight hose. But yes, the washers are 'one time use' only and need to be replaced if you remove the high pressure line.
I get the feeling that there is a good story behind how you came upon this nugget of knowledge. :-)
you do not have a oil pump primer .. I use mine for everything
No I don't. I've never really had a need for one. In this case spinning the power steering pump pulley, like I show in the video, will prime it quite nicely.
Do you think the process won’t difference when changing the rack on an 09?
It should be very similar.
I cannot find the video for flushing it.
Sorry, I haven't edited it yet. In short, disconnect the low pressure hose from the rack and plug it with the ceramic end of an old spark plug or similar object. Put one end of another fuel line hose (or similar) on the low pressure tube on the rack and the other into a clear plastic bottle. Then pull up the reservoir with fluid, rotate the power steering pulley with a wrench like I show in the video. Stop before the fluid gets too low. Fill it again and repeat the process until clean fresh fluid comes out into the clear bottle. Then remove the extra hose and put the low pressure line back on and fill up the reservoir. Then start the car and make sure there are no leaks. Hope that helps.
Just a heads up. I just posted a video on how to flush the system: ua-cam.com/video/A5F4nPTh3cE/v-deo.html
@@petrocksgarage ahh very kind, took it to a shop my buddy works at. Figured id be getting a steering alignment anyways and could not get the steering shaft disconnected.
if jesus was adopting i'd vote you, wholesome man
Ummm... thanks.
MUCHO ROLLO MAESTRO!!!!!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
That rust belt is called rust belt because industry died out not for weather conditions. Things will rust here in Florida or anywhere in the country depending on the amount of iron that gets oxygenated. The whole country is almost on even terms as far as potential to rust.
I've lived in a number of states over the years. Everything rusts near the ocean. Nothing rusts inland in Southern/Middle California, Arizona and Nevada. Everything rusts north east of Pennsylvania. Especially in places with a lot of snow and/or use salt on their roads. Either way, you are right re why its called the rust belt. I'll make sure to clean that up in future videos. Thanks.
@@petrocksgarage it’s not important and I don’t know why part of me always does that. You have a great video and it helped me a lot
@@jamesdees6166, no problem. I appreciate the history lesson. Seriously.
What brand did you use? I bought Cardone and it was junk! I’m tired of wasting money on garbage products.
I've had hit/miss with Cardone. In this case, I had to get the car up and running quickly, so I got it from my local AutoZone. I think it was their Duralast brand reman rack.
Pet Rock's Garage Appreciate the response. I just purchased ACDelco from RockAuto.
65 Mustang
No, this video was on a 98 Mustang. or was that a question?
Great video but you might consider a different editing style. Those smooth cuts and spliced sentences are killer to listen to
Thanks for the tip. I'm not a professional speaker or video editor, so I assume hearing/seeing the cuts & splicing is better than hearing ummms & uhhhs. You can please some of the people all of the time, you can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all of the people all of the time.
He should have to put it back on more turns not less.
Why do you say that? Please elaborate. Either way, the toe is going to be off, and you'll need an alignment, even if you use the same number if turns.
Liar! My turns did not vary, exactly 24.5
heh... Thats pretty interesting yours were identical. I haven't seen that before.
I have to replace mine and I have an idea now..
You got a new subscriber thank you 😃 petrocksgarage
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out. Good luck.