Good video. My only comment would be tell folks to take a picture of the dials' positions at the beginning of the video since you told us at the end we needed to put them back.
At 73 and a car hobbiestI , I've done a lot various projects. I don't think I've ever scene anyone explain a procedure as clearly as you have. Thanks so much.
@@petrocksgarage I am a little embarrassed. After watching your excellent video I removed the actual gage faces and removed the needles. I did take a picture. After making a bigger problem than I started with, do I have to have the gages recalibrated? Thanks
Excellent, thanks for the detail. I try to do the same with my videos. It's real frustrating when people make videos and skip over so much. Telling us the tool sizes and explaining exactly how something like the light switch knob comes off really helps those of us who have never done it before.
Thank you so much for this amazingly made video. Great step by step that gave me the confidence to do this repair on my own. Only thing missing that left me insecure was putting back headlight knob.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. The knob should just slide on and click into place. Basically the opposite of how it was removed. Hope that helps. Good luck.
I just wanted to tell you that I watched CJ Pony Parts video on the same thing. When I replaced everything. It still didn't work.... But then when I watched your video.... You could see your video 100% better and noticed that on their video the little gear was turned upside down vs. yours. When I turned it the way you had it on your video..... It worked! Thank you very much
Thank you very much for making your step by step video, and it was extremely helpful that I didn't break anything by knowing first hand by your video how to do it exactly like you did it. Nothing broke that was my main concern. These types of videos help you to be a DIY, and saved money not taking it to a mechanic or even worse the dealer $$$$$. Once again thanks for this helpful video.
Excellent tutorial video. This really helped me fix my odometer. Also reading through the commons how much the gear kit is compared to now is berserk, but you still can’t find it cheap on Amazon. Thank you. I appreciate the tutorial video.
Great video. I use a small, round, felt polishing pad on a Dremel to rotate my odometer forward. Use low speed on the Dremel and lightly touch the pad to the drive gear. A 45 minute job adding 500 miles then becomes a two minute job.
I got the same problem ,I guess I will get to it on a weekend, thanks bro you showed me exactly what I need to do. This video is very informative thanks alot for the upload.
excellent video saved me a lot of trouble but 1 thing you may want to do a little research on dielectric grease as it should never be put on the electric contacts themselves. at least thats my understanding because the grease itself does not conduct. thanks for the video.
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out. Re Dielectric Grease: the definition of Dielectric via Google is "a medium or substance that transmits electric force without conduction; an insulator." Therefor Dielectric Grease does not conduct or resist electricity and is therefor safe to use on electrical contacts. It insulates the contacts from the elements to prevent corrosion without adversely effecting the electrical connection. Hope that clears things up for you.
Thanks for the info video really do appreciate the time you have taken through this service process it is people like you that are a great inspiration for The Diy!! Thanks!!😳🔔🔥🙌👍👍👍
Awesome video tutorial Pet Rock. Very in depth and detailed instructions. Kudos to you for such an informative video. I have a question though. To your knowledge, would the C82001 part number be the same for a '94 Thunderbird or Cougar ? I have a '94 Mercury Cougar with exactly this same problem. If you know whether it would take the same part number or not, it would be a great help. Thanks again for the awesome video. Keep up the great work. Happy New Year and Blessings to you and your family.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re C82001: I am not sure. But according to rockauto.com, you want Dorman part # 926322 which looks completely different than the one I installed in the video. Hope that helps.
Hey I just wanted to know if you got to fix your cougar ,and was the part number the same, I also have a 1994 mercury cougar and I got the same problem, please if you got to fix it what's the part number so I can order it ,thanks God bless you 🙏.
Wow that was chewed up. My digital cluster is about $1200 to replace on my F150 , it's like a computer more so then the old style like yours. Nice fix. 👍👍
Thanks a lot. The gear was literally crumbling in my hands. 20 years of heat cycles will do that I guess. I was very happy it was a fairly inexpensive fix. My Durango is digital too. Thankfully I haven't had many electrical issues with it. (fingers crossed).
Thank you sooo much. I really appreciate this Sir. Great video. Sir,. If it's not to much trouble. By any chance would it be ok to see a video on how to remove the top fuel lines near the AC tank on the passenger firewall side. I'm having trouble and it's leaking. Any help you extend is greatly appreciated Sir.
Thanks. I don't have a video on hand for that at the moment. However, if you just want to disconnect the fuel line you'll need a disconnect tool like this: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-9-pc-a-c-and-fuel-line-quick-disconnect-tool-set-ac501/9010298-P Just find the one that fits the line you want to disconnect and slide the tool in until it clicks and then pull the lines apart. Pretty simple. Make sure to have the fuel system purged though otherwise you'll get a face full of fuel when you disconnect the lines. You can purge it a couple different ways, but the easiest is to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it dies. Hope that helps.
Getting ready to do the same on my stepson's 96 gt . You're very thorough , however would you not add a little lithium grease to new gears or leave dry ?
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. For those who may stumble onto this comment, the answer to Rick's question is: "I smeared the grease that was on the old gears onto the new. You don't need a lot,. Whatever grease you use needs to be plastic safe. Regular chassis grease (the grease used to lube ball joints & tie rod ends), for example, is not plastic safe. Brake caliper grease would work. Hope that helps."
Replaced the gears and it still dosen't work-the speedo and tach do-does the odometer and trip meter[which also doesn't work]have an electrical component also or is it just the gears-what makes it work?Thanks for the help.
If the original gears were not damaged or broken, then they are not your problem. Yes, there is an electrical component that sends power to the odometer/trip meter motor in the cluster. It's one of the many wires going into the connector on the back of the cluster. Different year mustangs have different connector configurations, so I can't tell you which wire to look at first. Good luck.
I'd start at zero. :-) New (to you) car, new milage. :-) But seriously, any value is fine. IMO, as long as it is accurately ticking away the files then its fine. I primarily use the odometer to know when the next maintenance operation is due, and the trip meter to keep track of my MPG. Up to you.
No, it won't reset. The fuel gauge doesn't use a stepper motor. You'll have to move it back to roughly where it was when you took it off. Hopefully you've got a good memory or took pictures before you took everything apart. Good luck.
So I replaced the gears. The odometer and trip meter are working again. All my gauges work except the tac. I sat the cluster face down while I was trying to replace the gear and accidentally broke the pin that holds the tac needle when it’s at zero. I super glued it back on but realized the needle was underneath it. So I wound it back counter clockwise and let it rest on the pin. I’m thinking that maybe if I were to wind it back in the original direction that might make it work again. Thoughts?
No, it won't. The speedometer is a completely different component than the odometer/trip meter. The two are not mechanically connected. They are indirectly electronically connected though. So if the odometer & speedometer stopped working at the same time I would suspect an electrical issue, not mechanical. It could be a bad fuse, bad wire(s) going to the instrument cluster, a bad solder joint in the instrument cluster, bad instrument cluster... the list goes on. If you aren't comfortable tracking down electrical issues, I'd suggest finding a shop that is good at electrical stuff and have them diagnose it. Please don't just throw parts at the problem (like a new instrument cluster). Thats like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. If it does turn out to be an instrument cluster there are companies that refurbish instrument clusters for cheaper than a new cluster. Good luck.
Hi, so my fuel, oil, battery, odometer and speedometer all stopped working so i replaced those parts like you did and they still don't work. So this would then be an electrical problem right?
Just replacing parts when there is a problem will just waste a lot of money over time. Its like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. Yes, it sounds like an electrical problem given that all of those things failed at once. It could be as simple/cheap as a blown fuse or complicated/expensive as a broken/damaged wire, corroded connection, bad console or a combination of those. It would definitely not be the gears I show how to replace in this video since those gears don't effect the fuel, oil or battery gauges. If you aren't good at electrical diagnostics take it to a shop to diagnose it. Once you know the problem you can decide to fix it yourself or have them fix it. You'll save money in the long run this way. Electrical issues can be a P.I.T.A. to diagnose & fix sometimes. Good luck.
PLEASE HELP! What if I replaced the gears and the miles too my car still won’t go up and the trip odometer won’t spin either? Could it be the speed sensors? Or could it be the cluster printed circuit board is probably messed up?
It could be any number of things. It could be the cluster, wiring to the cluster, the speed sensor, the wiring from the speed sensor, bad fuse etc etc. The list goes on. Don't assume it's a part that is wrong when it could just as easily be a bad wire. Jumping straight to a part as the problem is like playing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bullseye. I'd recommend taking it to a shop that is good at electrical diagnostics and have them diagnose it. It might be something you can fix, otherwise pay them to fix it. Good luck.
fuel odometer? Do you mean the fuel gauge? The fuel gauge is controlled by the fuel sending unit attached to the fuel pump in the fuel tank. It could be misbehaving for many different reasons. Most likely would be a damaged/corroded wire between the gauge and the sending unit, or a bad sending unit. If you aren't good at tracking down electrical problems, I'd advise taking it to a shop to diagnose it. Good luck.
I speared the grease that was on the old gears onto the new. You don't need a lot,. Whatever grease you use needs to be plastic safe. Regular chassis grease (the grease used to lube ball joints & tie rod ends), for example, is not plastic safe. Brake caliper grease would work. Hope that helps.
Ok i have a 1998.ford mustang.3.8L,V6, standard.....my speedometer.stopped working.directly on top crossing the highest point of . Bridge taking you to Galveston island....I removed the whole odometer cluster panal.. opened it all up.. the gear was broken..the worm I replaced any ways......I also replaced.the speed sensor..twice thinking the first one was bad.. Everything on the odometer cluster is good I've managed to calibrate the needles light up the panel.and I cleaned up behind where u install the bulbs.. I straightened out any bent copper lines going to where your connections go....but no working Mph.Needle.the check engine light stays on ...which says no reading from sensor...or faulty connection... what am I missing.or what do I do next.cuz I went balls out an replaced all lifters , pushrods.rocker arms .I bought a all out gasket I got everything.i replace all three of the different freeze plugs.i resurfaced the heads.... painted anything I could old Ford blue... like head covers.brackets an..I cleaned the air intake inside an out I got a new transmission.withba resurfaced flywheel....I installed a racing clutch.. there are three things I need to do.1is find any gear debris.. overlooked...an clean it again....2clean abs sensors on all four wheels.an ...3make sure the gear that slides into the transmission.is good an verify if it's the correct one....
A lot of things could cause the speedometer to stop working. Broken wire, high resistance somewhere in the circuit, bad connection, bad electric motor for the needle etc. It is hard to diagnose from my keyboard. I doubt the mods you did to the motor had any effect on the speedometer, unless you pinched/damaged a wire somewhere during the install. If you are handy with a volt-meter you could probably trace it down and find the problem. I'd get the wiring diagram for the cluster from www.bbbind.com, if you don't have the factory wiring diagram book. Back-probe the signal pin for the speedometer motor and see if it is getting a signal when you drive around a little (or put the rear up on jack stands and just put the car in drive to let the wheels spin freely a little, don't go nuts on it though). Then work from there (checking powers & grounds to the speedometer motor etc). If you aren't good with a volt-meter then I would recommend taking it to a shop that is good with electrical issues. Good luck.
I wonder what's the difference between SMP #C82001 and DORMAN #924388, which Rockauto suggests as the only one? It seems only the price is different (i.e. 20€ vs. 40€). Nice job! Finding the other SMP part number saves me 20€ + tax + P&P. Thanks! :-)
I have no idea what the difference is. Probably different supported vehicles/models? Dorman 924388 apparently comes with two sets of gears where the SMP comes with only one. Maybe there are vehicles/models that need two gear sets? I'm not sure. I'm glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
HI, I have a ford explorer 98 XLT and all the gauges are fine except the one that shows the speed, I already replaced speed sensor and still my speed gauge does not work, any suggestion?
You've ruled out the speed sensor, but that is only one of the many different causes. It could be a damaged/broken wire between the speed sensor & PCM or PCM and instrument cluster, or the electric motor to turn the needle in the cluster could be bad, or the cluster itself could be bad. Best to find someone who is good at diagnosing electrical problems and have them investigate. Just throwing parts at it will likely be a waste of time & money. It's like throwing darts in the dark and hoping for a bulls eye. Good luck.
I’ve took out my cluster & the gear was not broken. Both of my odometer n speedometer aren’t working. I then took off the speed sensor on my rear diff lock but it was not broken n I wiped off. But still nothing is working.. any help? 98 ford ranger 4x4 v6 3.0.
It could be a lot of things. Chances are high that it's a broken or damaged wire somewhere, but I also wouldn't rule out a bad sensor. If you are not proficient in using a multi-meter or volt-meter, I would take it to a shop that is good at tracking down electrical problems like this. A good tech should be able to figure it out in an hour or two. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@FOPEZ, as I mentioned, it's highly likely that its a broken/damage wire. Especially since two electrical components are out at the same time. I wouldn't just throw parts at the problem. That's like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. Find a good shop that can diagnose it properly. You'll save yourself time, money & headaches that way. Good luck.
If the gears were broken and you replaced them but the odometer still doesn't work, then chances are that there was a secondary problem in the instrument cluster or in the wiring to it. Good luck.
@@jorickearlbastian253, if your speedometer is in km then so too should your odometer. White digit represents one tenth of one km/mile. So if the white digit is 5 it represents half a mile/km.
is it the same gear for miles an hour or kilometers an hour ie canadian or american cars i replaced still not woorking does the worm gear have a certian direction
Yeah, its the same gear for kph & mph. The computer just rotates the gear at a different rate for kph vs mph. If the gears all lined up when you re-installed it then it should be in correctly. If it still doesn't work, make sure that the gear is spinning when the rear wheels are spinning (jack the rear wheels off the ground, chuck the front wheels so it doesn't role, and start the car and put it into drive. Let it spin the rear wheels at idle. If the gears don't spin then the problem is electrical (either in the cluster, wiring to the cluster or the computer). Good luck.
Those are electrically controlled by the ECU and the needle moves via a little stepper motor. It doesn't use gearing like the odometer & trip meter. So if they are stuck then its an electrical problem either in the gauge cluster, gas & temp sensors, wiring, or ECU. There is no silver bullet fix here. It needs to be diagnosed by someone who is good at diagnosing electrical problems. If you are, then you can get the wiring diagrams from bbbind.com and do a series of voltage drop tests to find the electrical fault. Shouldn't take more than an hour if you know what you are doing. Good luck.
Ford should have their dealers do this...they just seem to just want to do oil changes and sell tires!! One said get a new cluster and bring 2 keys. What do keys have to do with it? Another won't touch anything old and you MUST have a service record with them. Shame on them!
Most dealer mechanics are just parts changers. Time is money and it's faster to replace a part than fix it. They don't 'fix' anything. A good independent shop might fix it, but you may end up paying more in labor than just buying the new (or used from a junk yard) cluster and having them install it. It's kind of a crap shoot really. Im not sure what the keys have to do with it. I don't think the keys are paired with the cluster. PCM/ECM yeah, but not the cluster on this era mustang. But I could be wrong. Maybe that dealer service writer was confused about models/years? Re not working on old cars, yes that is a thing and perfectly within their right to refuse to work on older vehicles. There can be a bunch of different legitimate reasons. A dealer tech friend of mine told me once that at their shop it's because older vehicles tend to be more fragile. Plastics often brittle. Metal rusted. Something could break while trying to do a repair and the shop would be on the hook to pay for it (assuming the shop is ethical). They might work on some stuff like interior, suspension & maintenance, but no engine or transmission work. Too much risk.
Good video. My only comment would be tell folks to take a picture of the dials' positions at the beginning of the video since you told us at the end we needed to put them back.
Thanks. Good tip. Hopefully people watch to the end before starting a job like this. 🙂 But I realize that might be rare.
@@petrocksgarage Good point. "Read all instructions before starting the job". I should have. I usually do.
@@garrettottoaz6170, sometimes the excitement of starting a job gets the better of us.
At 73 and a car hobbiestI , I've done a lot various projects. I don't think I've ever scene anyone explain a procedure as clearly as you have. Thanks so much.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it,
@@petrocksgarage I am a little embarrassed. After watching your excellent video I removed the actual gage faces and removed the needles. I did take a picture. After making a bigger problem than I started with, do I have to have the gages recalibrated? Thanks
Excellent, thanks for the detail. I try to do the same with my videos. It's real frustrating when people make videos and skip over so much. Telling us the tool sizes and explaining exactly how something like the light switch knob comes off really helps those of us who have never done it before.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thank you so much for this amazingly made video. Great step by step that gave me the confidence to do this repair on my own. Only thing missing that left me insecure was putting back headlight knob.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out. The knob should just slide on and click into place. Basically the opposite of how it was removed. Hope that helps. Good luck.
What a excellent video, you have done a super good job of explaining and showing this repair. You are a natural at this kind stuff. Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
This video is incredible. Thanks for taking the time and being so thorough!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Glad to be of service.
I just wanted to tell you that I watched CJ Pony Parts video on the same thing. When I replaced everything. It still didn't work.... But then when I watched your video.... You could see your video 100% better and noticed that on their video the little gear was turned upside down vs. yours. When I turned it the way you had it on your video..... It worked! Thank you very much
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Thank you very much for making your step by step video, and it was extremely helpful that I didn't break anything by knowing first hand by your video how to do it exactly like you did it. Nothing broke that was my main concern. These types of videos help you to be a DIY, and saved money not taking it to a mechanic or even worse the dealer $$$$$. Once again thanks for this helpful video.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Excellent tutorial video. This really helped me fix my odometer. Also reading through the commons how much the gear kit is compared to now is berserk, but you still can’t find it cheap on Amazon. Thank you. I appreciate the tutorial video.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Thank you for this video! You've given me the confidence to fix my odometer. You are an excellent teacher :-)!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video. I use a small, round, felt polishing pad on a Dremel to rotate my odometer forward. Use low speed on the Dremel and lightly touch the pad to the drive gear. A 45 minute job adding 500 miles then becomes a two minute job.
Thats a pretty good idea. Work smarter not harder.
Thank you, great attention to details!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I got the same problem ,I guess I will get to it on a weekend, thanks bro you showed me exactly what I need to do. This video is very informative thanks alot for the upload.
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Thanks for this video, specially the close up onto the press fit gear ⚙ orientation 👏
No problem. Glad to be of service. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
well done bro this common failure for ford @130k to150k miles i expected to see many more vids on it, thanx 4 one good one.
Thanks a lot. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Brilliant, thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Wow Good attention to Details, Good Job!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
excellent video saved me a lot of trouble but 1 thing you may want to do a little research on dielectric grease as it should never be put on the electric contacts themselves. at least thats my understanding because the grease itself does not conduct. thanks for the video.
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Re Dielectric Grease: the definition of Dielectric via Google is "a medium or substance that transmits electric force without conduction; an insulator." Therefor Dielectric Grease does not conduct or resist electricity and is therefor safe to use on electrical contacts. It insulates the contacts from the elements to prevent corrosion without adversely effecting the electrical connection. Hope that clears things up for you.
Did a great job explaining everything very thorough thank you
Thanks a lot,. I appreciate it.
Thank you 🙏 made my mustang repair simple exactly what was wrong👌
No problem. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great video in both content and quality! Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the info video really do appreciate the time you have taken through this service process it is people like you that are a great inspiration for The Diy!! Thanks!!😳🔔🔥🙌👍👍👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awesome video , Straight to the point and very well done Thanks !!!!!!!!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice job explaining the process.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Thank you this was very interesting, I hope when it’s time to repair mine it’s as easy lol
Thanks. I appreciate it. Good luck.
Awesome video tutorial Pet Rock. Very in depth and detailed instructions. Kudos to you for such an informative video.
I have a question though. To your knowledge, would the C82001 part number be the same for a '94 Thunderbird or Cougar ?
I have a '94 Mercury Cougar with exactly this same problem. If you know whether it would take the same part number or not, it would be a great help.
Thanks again for the awesome video.
Keep up the great work. Happy New Year and Blessings to you and your family.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re C82001: I am not sure. But according to rockauto.com, you want Dorman part # 926322 which looks completely different than the one I installed in the video. Hope that helps.
Hey I just wanted to know if you got to fix your cougar ,and was the part number the same, I also have a 1994 mercury cougar and I got the same problem, please if you got to fix it what's the part number so I can order it ,thanks God bless you 🙏.
@@petrocksgarage I did look it up and yes 926322 is the part number for my odometer thanks for the info
Excellent video
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great job, saved me a trip to the junk yard
Thanks a lot. I'm gad my video helped you out.
Wow that was chewed up. My digital cluster is about $1200 to replace on my F150 , it's like a computer more so then the old style like yours. Nice fix. 👍👍
Thanks a lot. The gear was literally crumbling in my hands. 20 years of heat cycles will do that I guess. I was very happy it was a fairly inexpensive fix. My Durango is digital too. Thankfully I haven't had many electrical issues with it. (fingers crossed).
Thank you sooo much. I really appreciate this Sir. Great video. Sir,. If it's not to much trouble. By any chance would it be ok to see a video on how to remove the top fuel lines near the AC tank on the passenger firewall side. I'm having trouble and it's leaking. Any help you extend is greatly appreciated Sir.
Thanks. I don't have a video on hand for that at the moment. However, if you just want to disconnect the fuel line you'll need a disconnect tool like this:
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-9-pc-a-c-and-fuel-line-quick-disconnect-tool-set-ac501/9010298-P
Just find the one that fits the line you want to disconnect and slide the tool in until it clicks and then pull the lines apart. Pretty simple. Make sure to have the fuel system purged though otherwise you'll get a face full of fuel when you disconnect the lines. You can purge it a couple different ways, but the easiest is to pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car till it dies. Hope that helps.
Getting ready to do the same on my stepson's 96 gt . You're very thorough , however would you not add a little lithium grease to new gears or leave dry ?
I found my answer scrolling down the replies! Thanks ! Great video.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. For those who may stumble onto this comment, the answer to Rick's question is: "I smeared the grease that was on the old gears onto the new. You don't need a lot,. Whatever grease you use needs to be plastic safe. Regular chassis grease (the grease used to lube ball joints & tie rod ends), for example, is not plastic safe. Brake caliper grease would work. Hope that helps."
@@petrocksgarage I tackled this like a pro after viewing your video ! thanks again works like it should now !!
excellent
Thanks. I'm glad my video helped you out.
great job
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Excellent thank u
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Replaced the gears and it still dosen't work-the speedo and tach do-does the odometer and trip meter[which also doesn't work]have an electrical component also or is it just the gears-what makes it work?Thanks for the help.
If the original gears were not damaged or broken, then they are not your problem. Yes, there is an electrical component that sends power to the odometer/trip meter motor in the cluster. It's one of the many wires going into the connector on the back of the cluster. Different year mustangs have different connector configurations, so I can't tell you which wire to look at first. Good luck.
I just got my 96 mustang and the people I bought it from said the mile gauge needs fixed I’m just not sure how many miles off it is 😅
I'd start at zero. :-) New (to you) car, new milage. :-) But seriously, any value is fine. IMO, as long as it is accurately ticking away the files then its fine. I primarily use the odometer to know when the next maintenance operation is due, and the trip meter to keep track of my MPG. Up to you.
I accidentally moved the fuel gauge. Will it reset to the correct level when I fill the tank? You said something about stepper motor. Thanks!
No, it won't reset. The fuel gauge doesn't use a stepper motor. You'll have to move it back to roughly where it was when you took it off. Hopefully you've got a good memory or took pictures before you took everything apart. Good luck.
Great video!!!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
So I replaced the gears. The odometer and trip meter are working again. All my gauges work except the tac. I sat the cluster face down while I was trying to replace the gear and accidentally broke the pin that holds the tac needle when it’s at zero. I super glued it back on but realized the needle was underneath it. So I wound it back counter clockwise and let it rest on the pin.
I’m thinking that maybe if I were to wind it back in the original direction that might make it work again. Thoughts?
Sorry to hear you broke the tac. I'm not sure if your plan will work or not. It all depends on what broke & where. Good luck.
Will this also fix the speedometer that stopped working at the same time?
No, it won't. The speedometer is a completely different component than the odometer/trip meter. The two are not mechanically connected. They are indirectly electronically connected though. So if the odometer & speedometer stopped working at the same time I would suspect an electrical issue, not mechanical. It could be a bad fuse, bad wire(s) going to the instrument cluster, a bad solder joint in the instrument cluster, bad instrument cluster... the list goes on.
If you aren't comfortable tracking down electrical issues, I'd suggest finding a shop that is good at electrical stuff and have them diagnose it. Please don't just throw parts at the problem (like a new instrument cluster). Thats like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. If it does turn out to be an instrument cluster there are companies that refurbish instrument clusters for cheaper than a new cluster. Good luck.
Hi, so my fuel, oil, battery, odometer and speedometer all stopped working so i replaced those parts like you did and they still don't work. So this would then be an electrical problem right?
Just replacing parts when there is a problem will just waste a lot of money over time. Its like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. Yes, it sounds like an electrical problem given that all of those things failed at once. It could be as simple/cheap as a blown fuse or complicated/expensive as a broken/damaged wire, corroded connection, bad console or a combination of those. It would definitely not be the gears I show how to replace in this video since those gears don't effect the fuel, oil or battery gauges. If you aren't good at electrical diagnostics take it to a shop to diagnose it. Once you know the problem you can decide to fix it yourself or have them fix it. You'll save money in the long run this way. Electrical issues can be a P.I.T.A. to diagnose & fix sometimes. Good luck.
PLEASE HELP! What if I replaced the gears and the miles too my car still won’t go up and the trip odometer won’t spin either? Could it be the speed sensors? Or could it be the cluster printed circuit board is probably messed up?
It could be any number of things. It could be the cluster, wiring to the cluster, the speed sensor, the wiring from the speed sensor, bad fuse etc etc. The list goes on. Don't assume it's a part that is wrong when it could just as easily be a bad wire. Jumping straight to a part as the problem is like playing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bullseye. I'd recommend taking it to a shop that is good at electrical diagnostics and have them diagnose it. It might be something you can fix, otherwise pay them to fix it. Good luck.
What if the FUEL ODOMETER indicator shows the wrong reading and doesn't go to 0 when the car is off?
fuel odometer? Do you mean the fuel gauge? The fuel gauge is controlled by the fuel sending unit attached to the fuel pump in the fuel tank. It could be misbehaving for many different reasons. Most likely would be a damaged/corroded wire between the gauge and the sending unit, or a bad sending unit. If you aren't good at tracking down electrical problems, I'd advise taking it to a shop to diagnose it. Good luck.
did you apply any grease to the new gears? and what kind did you use?
I speared the grease that was on the old gears onto the new. You don't need a lot,. Whatever grease you use needs to be plastic safe. Regular chassis grease (the grease used to lube ball joints & tie rod ends), for example, is not plastic safe. Brake caliper grease would work. Hope that helps.
Ok i have a 1998.ford mustang.3.8L,V6, standard.....my speedometer.stopped working.directly on top crossing the highest point of . Bridge taking you to Galveston island....I removed the whole odometer cluster panal.. opened it all up.. the gear was broken..the worm I replaced any ways......I also replaced.the speed sensor..twice thinking the first one was bad.. Everything on the odometer cluster is good I've managed to calibrate the needles light up the panel.and I cleaned up behind where u install the bulbs.. I straightened out any bent copper lines going to where your connections go....but no working Mph.Needle.the check engine light stays on ...which says no reading from sensor...or faulty connection... what am I missing.or what do I do next.cuz I went balls out an replaced all lifters , pushrods.rocker arms .I bought a all out gasket I got everything.i replace all three of the different freeze plugs.i resurfaced the heads.... painted anything I could old Ford blue... like head covers.brackets an..I cleaned the air intake inside an out I got a new transmission.withba resurfaced flywheel....I installed a racing clutch.. there are three things I need to do.1is find any gear debris.. overlooked...an clean it again....2clean abs sensors on all four wheels.an ...3make sure the gear that slides into the transmission.is good an verify if it's the correct one....
A lot of things could cause the speedometer to stop working. Broken wire, high resistance somewhere in the circuit, bad connection, bad electric motor for the needle etc. It is hard to diagnose from my keyboard. I doubt the mods you did to the motor had any effect on the speedometer, unless you pinched/damaged a wire somewhere during the install. If you are handy with a volt-meter you could probably trace it down and find the problem. I'd get the wiring diagram for the cluster from www.bbbind.com, if you don't have the factory wiring diagram book. Back-probe the signal pin for the speedometer motor and see if it is getting a signal when you drive around a little (or put the rear up on jack stands and just put the car in drive to let the wheels spin freely a little, don't go nuts on it though). Then work from there (checking powers & grounds to the speedometer motor etc). If you aren't good with a volt-meter then I would recommend taking it to a shop that is good with electrical issues. Good luck.
Is a 94 Thunderbird the same way? I have to replace the odometer/trip meter hearts also.
Sorry, I haven't worked on that year/model vehicle, so I don't know.
I wonder what's the difference between SMP #C82001 and DORMAN #924388, which Rockauto suggests as the only one? It seems only the price is different (i.e. 20€ vs. 40€). Nice job! Finding the other SMP part number saves me 20€ + tax + P&P. Thanks! :-)
I have no idea what the difference is. Probably different supported vehicles/models? Dorman 924388 apparently comes with two sets of gears where the SMP comes with only one. Maybe there are vehicles/models that need two gear sets? I'm not sure. I'm glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
i only need one thing: a New, clear plastic lens that goes on top the cluster. can't find one anywhere for my 94 mustang gt.
I'd check a local junk yard, honestly. Since you only need the lens, there are likely multiple years you can pick from. Good luck.
HI, I have a ford explorer 98 XLT and all the gauges are fine except the one that shows the speed, I already replaced speed sensor and still my speed gauge does not work, any suggestion?
You've ruled out the speed sensor, but that is only one of the many different causes. It could be a damaged/broken wire between the speed sensor & PCM or PCM and instrument cluster, or the electric motor to turn the needle in the cluster could be bad, or the cluster itself could be bad. Best to find someone who is good at diagnosing electrical problems and have them investigate. Just throwing parts at it will likely be a waste of time & money. It's like throwing darts in the dark and hoping for a bulls eye. Good luck.
thank you, this is the best answer I found so far, I will keep investigating
OK,while taking the odometer motor out,i broke one of the holders-what do i do now????
I'm not sure. It depends how it broke. Super-glue or JB-Weld it back on? Good luck!!!
@@petrocksgarage Thanks for getting back.
@@tippimail1 no problem. hope you get it sorted out. Good luck.
I’ve took out my cluster & the gear was not broken. Both of my odometer n speedometer aren’t working. I then took off the speed sensor on my rear diff lock but it was not broken n I wiped off. But still nothing is working.. any help? 98 ford ranger 4x4 v6 3.0.
It could be a lot of things. Chances are high that it's a broken or damaged wire somewhere, but I also wouldn't rule out a bad sensor. If you are not proficient in using a multi-meter or volt-meter, I would take it to a shop that is good at tracking down electrical problems like this. A good tech should be able to figure it out in an hour or two. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage thank you also i was looking to replace the speed gear from under but i cant seem to find it. I appreciate all the help
@@FOPEZ The speedometer is not controlled by a gear. Just the odometer & trip meter are gears. The speedometer an electric motor.
@@petrocksgarage thanks man.
the replace the speedsensor on the rear diff lock with a new duralast sensor but still no improvement
@@FOPEZ, as I mentioned, it's highly likely that its a broken/damage wire. Especially since two electrical components are out at the same time. I wouldn't just throw parts at the problem. That's like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls eye. Find a good shop that can diagnose it properly. You'll save yourself time, money & headaches that way. Good luck.
how much should this service cost?
Sorry, I have no idea. Prices vary from area to area so contact your local shops and see if they will do this job and at what price. Good luck.
make more videos please
I have a number of videos already recorded, just very very little time to edit them. I'm working on it. :-)
What about if it not working still ?
If the gears were broken and you replaced them but the odometer still doesn't work, then chances are that there was a secondary problem in the instrument cluster or in the wiring to it. Good luck.
How is the trip meter read?
I'm not sure what you're asking. You look at the numbers on the dial and read it.
@@petrocksgarage is it in km? What does the white digit mean?
@@jorickearlbastian253, if your speedometer is in km then so too should your odometer. White digit represents one tenth of one km/mile. So if the white digit is 5 it represents half a mile/km.
is it the same gear for miles an hour or kilometers an hour ie canadian or american cars i replaced still not woorking does the worm gear have a certian direction
Yeah, its the same gear for kph & mph. The computer just rotates the gear at a different rate for kph vs mph. If the gears all lined up when you re-installed it then it should be in correctly. If it still doesn't work, make sure that the gear is spinning when the rear wheels are spinning (jack the rear wheels off the ground, chuck the front wheels so it doesn't role, and start the car and put it into drive. Let it spin the rear wheels at idle. If the gears don't spin then the problem is electrical (either in the cluster, wiring to the cluster or the computer). Good luck.
How you fix stuck gauges on a 97 mustang
which gauge? They are all controlled electronically and only a few have a mechanical component.
@@petrocksgarage gas gauge and engine cold/hot gauge
Those are electrically controlled by the ECU and the needle moves via a little stepper motor. It doesn't use gearing like the odometer & trip meter. So if they are stuck then its an electrical problem either in the gauge cluster, gas & temp sensors, wiring, or ECU. There is no silver bullet fix here. It needs to be diagnosed by someone who is good at diagnosing electrical problems. If you are, then you can get the wiring diagrams from bbbind.com and do a series of voltage drop tests to find the electrical fault. Shouldn't take more than an hour if you know what you are doing. Good luck.
Ford should have their dealers do this...they just seem to just want to do oil changes and sell tires!! One said get a new cluster and bring 2 keys. What do keys have to do with it? Another won't touch anything old and you MUST have a service record with them. Shame on them!
Most dealer mechanics are just parts changers. Time is money and it's faster to replace a part than fix it. They don't 'fix' anything. A good independent shop might fix it, but you may end up paying more in labor than just buying the new (or used from a junk yard) cluster and having them install it. It's kind of a crap shoot really.
Im not sure what the keys have to do with it. I don't think the keys are paired with the cluster. PCM/ECM yeah, but not the cluster on this era mustang. But I could be wrong. Maybe that dealer service writer was confused about models/years?
Re not working on old cars, yes that is a thing and perfectly within their right to refuse to work on older vehicles. There can be a bunch of different legitimate reasons. A dealer tech friend of mine told me once that at their shop it's because older vehicles tend to be more fragile. Plastics often brittle. Metal rusted. Something could break while trying to do a repair and the shop would be on the hook to pay for it (assuming the shop is ethical). They might work on some stuff like interior, suspension & maintenance, but no engine or transmission work. Too much risk.
don't damage the ... don't bend the ... now you tell me.
🤣 Hope you got it all sorted out.
Bruh
yuh?