Hands down the best video on this procedure. Looked at few others. Your video is clear and concise. Having the text for the finer points is a plus. Thanks!
I know that this is an older video, but it is July 10, 2020, and my son and I will be doing both sides of his 2005 Mustang tomorrow. I am a very mechanically able person, I am 48, been doing this stuff since I was 16 y.o., but I still like to watch a video on the job that I am about to perform. This job is not any different than many cars from the 1970's would be, but I like the peace of mind in knowing what I am about to do. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video.
Your video helped me a lot thank you!! It was better and more informative than any other videos I watched on replacing the tie rods. It made it very easy for me who is not a mechanic to replace them myself.
Great video. I've worked on numerous and completely rebuilt a few cars, but each one is different. The tip about the speed sensor was invaluable. I would like to add that a 13mm wrench works well on the inner tie rod to keep it from moving.
Amazing video, it helped me a lot. Got my 05 mustang and will be replacing them on my own. My mechanic was charging me 500$ to change them in both sides. Thoughts?
The job takes less than an hour, even if you take your time and drink a few beers in-between. Even with an alignment afterwards, which you will need, and a standard up-charge for parts, $500 is a rip off, IMO. I'd shop around for a new mechanic and definitely do this job yourself. Its really not that hard.
@@petrocksgarage I know! Thank you for your video. And also my water pump is damage, he wanted to charge me 500$ to replace it. So literally wanted to charge me 1000$ for outer tie rods replacement and water pump replacement, and that 1000$ was an estimate.
Ouch! Hope everything is OK. If your front tire hit the curb you should inspect the wheel hub/bearing for looseness too. The hub or the bearing inside it could have been damaged. If the rear tire hit, then I'd jack the rear up and spin the tire to see if it has a wobble in it. If so the axle is bent and should be replaced. IMO, you only replace stuff if it's damaged or worn out. But sometimes its better to be safe than sorry. Good luck.
Awesome video. Always have to say that. Your instructions are.... The best. No exaggeration no other word can be used... Moving on, the spindle on my 98 mustang front driver side a frame will need to be replaced because it is busted open and I think it is contributing to the vibration I feel while breaking at highway speeds. Thank you for your time!! Let me know if you can make a video / just collaborate with me as I progresses through resorting my 114000 milage vehicle I purchased
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I replied about the vibration in my other video you commented on. But if the vibration is only when breaking then it is likely a warped rotor. You can get them 'turned' to smooth them out or replace them fairly easily. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage your other video helped me with replacing the rotors. They were rusted in so I had to force them off with a couple of eye bolts, a couple nuts and a long screwdriver. I have subscribed and talked your videos up! I'll probably start a video guide to provide a video break down for repairs/upgrades you have not addressed. I'll talk you up every time!!
Thanks a lot. Big wrenches come in handy from time to time. I honestly don't remember when/where I got that huge wrench, but it fit perfectly. I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the job. I feel dirty using an adjustable wrench. :-)
Pet Rock's Garage First of all great videos! Very well explained. Secondly I'm no mechanic or anything but I do like learning but what exactly is wrong with using an adjustable wrench ?
Thanks alot. I appreciate it. Adjustable wrenches are a last resort IMO. e.g. in cases where you don't have the proper size wrench available. They never fit exactly and easily slip causing the bolt/nut to round over. Depending on the quality of the adjustable wrench, they often loosen on their own which is a P.I.T.A.
how was your alignment after this if you remember? from the video it looks like the outer tie rods turn was exactly 22 turns if you pushed it in and then start turning with the bolt facing up
You will never get the alignment correct, especially if the alignment wasn't spot on before you started (which is most likely the case). The goal is to get it as close as possible to what it was before you started so you don't burn up your tires taking it to an alignment shop to get a proper alignment. An alignment shop should be one of the first places you go after you are done with this job. You don't want to drive around too long without an alignment. Hope that clears things up.
Count turns but also measure from outer edge of lock nut to vertical center point of outer tie-rod end (about at the center zerk fitting) That measurement should remain same after install. Screw tie rod in or out to adjust maintain measurement.
Measuring from the outer edge of the lock nut for the outer tie rod to the center point of the outer tie rod will just give you the length of the outer tie rod. It will not give you a measurement relative to the inner tie rod. Now, if you meant measure from the hex end of the inner tie rod to the lock nut for the outer tie rod, that too won't work because it assumes the new & old outer tie rods are the same length. They may not be, especially if they are made by different manufacturers. Now, if you meant measure from the hex end of the inner tie rod to the center point of the outer tie rod that would work _only_ if your alignment was good to begin with. Chances are isn't not. The goal here is not to do a hyper accurate alignment in your garage/driveway. You'll never achieve that without expensive specialty tools. And no the string method is not accurate. The goal is to get the alignment as close as possible so you don't burn up your tires on the way to the alignment shop to get a proper alignment.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re inner tie rod, I replaced it because it was worn out. You should be able to lift it up and it should not drop back down. If it does drop it is worn out and should be replaced.
If I'm replacing both inner and outer tie rods, can I skip the jam nut loosening part and remove both tie rods while they're still together? This way I can also measure their total length and put the new (pre-assembled?) set in the same way?
Yeah, you could. However, after you have screwed the inner tie rod all the way on tight, chances are very high that the outer tie rod will not line up with the steering knuckle. So you'd just spin the inner tie rod to make it line up. It's debatable which is easier, IMO, because loosening the jam nut etc is not that difficult but fighting the inner/outer tie rod combo as you spin the assembly off could be a P.I.T.A. Either way, you would still need to get an alignment afterwards. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@petrocksgarage (Two years later!!!) I finally got around to this! Thanks to your video, all went fairly smoothly. I did just end up leaving the inner/out connected upon removal. Then to make sure the new set was the same length, I just put the old/new setup side by side using the zerk fitting as a point of reference for one side. Steering feels centered so I don't think I completely screwed it up. I'm up for new tires anyway, so I'll be getting an alignment soon. The bad news in all of this is the vibration I was getting is still there. While doing this swap, I noticed that the control arm lower ball joint seal was barely there. So that's my next job. =(
How did you know you needed to replace these? I’m having some vibration in my 12 gt. Have roadforced balanced the wheels and tires, replaced brakes. Should I tie rods next?
Tie rods wouldn't cause a vibration. Something moving/rotating is causing the vibration. Maybe the tires are out of round? Try rotating the tires and see if the vibration changes. If it does then it's the tires. If not, then check your motor & transmission mounts, as well as your drive shaft. Bad mounts or a bent/unbalanced drive shaft can all cause vibration. Good luck.
@@HPX584, in extreme situations yes they can. However, if they were the cause it would be extremely obvious. They would have to be super loose and would likely have been found by the tire shop that balanced them or whomever did the brakes.
@@HPX584 Its actually easier to see a bad inner tie rod with the boot on then it is with the boot off. You'd see the boot wiggle when touching the steering knuckle (doing brakes) or wheel (taking tires of too balance the tires). To cause a vibration there would have to be a lot of movement and would be pretty easy to notice.
You mean copper anti-seize? If so, yes. Copper or silver anti-seize will do just fine. The only difference between the two is the heat range they work in. Tie rods won't get anywhere near either of their max temp spec, so they will both work. btw, the age of the video doesn't matter as long as the info inside it is still relevant. Since this is a car repair video and not a current events video, it can be 20 years old and still be useful to people. Just sayin'..
@@petrocksgarage Yeah thanks for the fast reply! my mustang is so low i have to buy a low car carjack so that's something. your video is perfect. thank you for it. I liked and subscribed. need to get this done asap. Any experience how dangerous it is to drive a mustang with a loose tie rod head
@@teemu3981 thanks for the like & sub. I appreciate it. Re loose tie rod safety: it all depends on how loose it is. Its always better to fix sooner rather than later any issues in the steering system. While it may have only a little movement today, it can quickly degrade to a lot of movement in a matter of days (depending on how much driving you do). In really bad cases, which are relatively rare but do happen, the ball joint can separate and you'd lose control of the car. Hope that helps. Good luck.
You do you. But as a ford tech, you likely don't care much if the sensor brakes because you can just charge the customer to replace it even though you broke it. If you were a DIY'er you would care a lot more. Just sayin'...
Ummm, did you really suggest hitting the cast iron steering knuckle on the bottom of the McPherson strut with a BFH??? Bad idea, and that will never work on a 200K rust belt vehicle (which your brother's GT-500 clearly isn't). If replacing the outer tie rod end, use a pickle fork with a hammer or a pickle fork attachment on an air impact and separate the tie rod end quickly. If you are worried about saving a crappy OEM $10 Ford tie rod end (limited life part with no grease fitting, unlike a Moog), put invert the nut you just took off the tie rod stud, screw it down 3/4 of the way so the end of the stud is protected and give it 1 good hit (vs. the pitty pat crap you demonstrate above) with a 3lb sledge and the tie rod will pop out of the knuckle with no damage to the stud or boot.
Yes, I did suggest that. Works like a charm, even on rusted vehicles. There are tons of videos on UA-cam showing the success of this method. The vibration from hitting the knuckle breaks up the rust. It's simple physics. Beating on the shaft of the tie rod end with or without the nut partially screwed on can easily cause it to mushroom, especially on rust belt vehicles if the tie rod end is rusted into the knuckle, making it impossible to remove without cutting. But there are many different ways to do this job. Do whatever works for you.
I guess if you've seen it on a Youtue video that must it right? 😀. Never mushroomed a stud end in 40+ yrs of taking tie rods apart with the inverted nut method, have seen people crack cast iron steering knuckles by beating on them with BFHs. Use whatever method works for you.
As with most things, opinions vary. The boot is only held on by compression from the rubber the boot is made of. It is not glued on, nor should it. So the boot popping off is not surprising nor a problem. They are still holding up to this day on this car. Either way, they have a lifetime warranty, so if it does fail I can replace it for free.
Your milage may vary, but hitting the knuckle like that is the easiest method I have found to pop the tie rod out. In the end, what matters is you got the job done right?
Hands down the best video on this procedure. Looked at few others. Your video is clear and concise. Having the text for the finer points is a plus. Thanks!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Agreed 100%. Gave me confidence to do it myself :) (even though I did it already on my 66 Mustang)
I'm just getting into doing my own repairs, but I can instantly tell that you are fantastic at this. Bravo
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck!
Completely thorough and informative. If I'm ever in your town I owe you a beer! Thank you, sir.
Thanks a lot I appreciate it. I drink Guiness. I like a beer I can chew. 🍻
@@petrocksgarage dually noted!😁
I know that this is an older video, but it is July 10, 2020, and my son and I will be doing both sides of his 2005 Mustang tomorrow. I am a very mechanically able person, I am 48, been doing this stuff since I was 16 y.o., but I still like to watch a video on the job that I am about to perform. This job is not any different than many cars from the 1970's would be, but I like the peace of mind in knowing what I am about to do. Thank you for taking the time to produce this video.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. IMO, the age of the video doesn't really matter as long as the content is relevant to what you are looking for.
Brother-In-Laws... I hear they don't pay very well.... Haha good video man!
Thanks Eric. Yeah, his payment was me being able to work on his GT500 and occasionally drive it. :-) Worth every penny!!!
I'm sure you go "easy" on it right?
Yup... ;-) Whip lash is just a typical road hazard in that car. :-)
Got rid of all mine ages ago
Great video. Well explained, no unnecessary rambling, and excellent camera work. Thanks.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Awsome video. Thanks for the effort you put in.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I'm about to do this to my wife's 07 California Special. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Good luck.
Your video helped me a lot thank you!! It was better and more informative than any other videos I watched on replacing the tie rods. It made it very easy for me who is not a mechanic to replace them myself.
Thats great! I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Excellent video, very well explained it just makes this task a lot easier for all of us, thank you for posting
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
great video! you always do a kickass job of explaining things.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
I just read your about section on your page. I understand you are busy so don't let me stress you!! Thanks for what you have provided!!
Yeah, I am pretty busy. Such is life. But I do try to reply to all comments on my videos.
Brother, thanks so much, really a good video, the best . It help to fix a big problematic issue .
No problem. Glad to be of service.
Great video. Helped me replace my inner and outer rods. Thanks!
Thats great. I'm glad my video helped you out.
He make it easier to follow then most others and he knows his sh*t😜👍
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Very detailed video you thought me a lot thank you sir I'm going to replace my inner and outer tie rods this weekend
Thanks a lot. Good luck.
Just subscribed. This video is really easy to follow. Thank you so much!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video. I've worked on numerous and completely rebuilt a few cars, but each one is different. The tip about the speed sensor was invaluable. I would like to add that a 13mm wrench works well on the inner tie rod to keep it from moving.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Different tie rods use different size wrenches to hold in place. All depends on the manufacturer.
@@petrocksgarage you are absolutely correct. I believe mine were stock, but your mileage may vary. Cheers.
What size wrench for the outer tie rod
Amazing video, it helped me a lot. Got my 05 mustang and will be replacing them on my own. My mechanic was charging me 500$ to change them in both sides. Thoughts?
The job takes less than an hour, even if you take your time and drink a few beers in-between. Even with an alignment afterwards, which you will need, and a standard up-charge for parts, $500 is a rip off, IMO. I'd shop around for a new mechanic and definitely do this job yourself. Its really not that hard.
@@petrocksgarage I know! Thank you for your video. And also my water pump is damage, he wanted to charge me 500$ to replace it. So literally wanted to charge me 1000$ for outer tie rods replacement and water pump replacement, and that 1000$ was an estimate.
I Hydroplaned Into A Curb On A Heavy Curved Street...Thanks Im Gonna Replace Everything From Control Arms To The Shocks And Tie Rods Thanks Man👌⌚
Ouch! Hope everything is OK. If your front tire hit the curb you should inspect the wheel hub/bearing for looseness too. The hub or the bearing inside it could have been damaged. If the rear tire hit, then I'd jack the rear up and spin the tire to see if it has a wobble in it. If so the axle is bent and should be replaced. IMO, you only replace stuff if it's damaged or worn out. But sometimes its better to be safe than sorry. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thanks On Ebay Detroit Axel Has A Full Front Suspension Kit And Comes With New Hubs Too
Great video, this helped me out a lot
Thanks. I appreciate it. Glad my video helped you out.
perfect just what i needed thanks for the video
That's great. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
awesome video...thanks for putting this up here...was very helpful
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Appreciate the video. Does the front end have to be jacked up with both wheels off the ground to do this job?
No, you don't have to have both wheels off the ground. At a minimum, you just need the side you are working on off the ground. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage sounds good. Thank you sir
@@sik226 No problem. Good luck.
I enjoy the name of this channel. Fact.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Pet Rock is one of the kinder nicknames I've had since high school.
Awesome video. Always have to say that. Your instructions are.... The best. No exaggeration no other word can be used... Moving on, the spindle on my 98 mustang front driver side a frame will need to be replaced because it is busted open and I think it is contributing to the vibration I feel while breaking at highway speeds. Thank you for your time!! Let me know if you can make a video / just collaborate with me as I progresses through resorting my 114000 milage vehicle I purchased
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I replied about the vibration in my other video you commented on. But if the vibration is only when breaking then it is likely a warped rotor. You can get them 'turned' to smooth them out or replace them fairly easily. Good luck.
Pet Rock's Garage your other video helped me with replacing the rotors. They were rusted in so I had to force them off with a couple of eye bolts, a couple nuts and a long screwdriver. I have subscribed and talked your videos up! I'll probably start a video guide to provide a video break down for repairs/upgrades you have not addressed. I'll talk you up every time!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video, thanks
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Great video!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Good stuff here. Thank you.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Nice Video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
You the man.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Well done , I should get some big wrenches , I've been using an adjustable wrench to a pipe wrench . LOL
Thanks a lot. Big wrenches come in handy from time to time. I honestly don't remember when/where I got that huge wrench, but it fit perfectly. I'm a big fan of using the right tool for the job. I feel dirty using an adjustable wrench. :-)
Pet Rock's Garage First of all great videos! Very well explained. Secondly I'm no mechanic or anything but I do like learning but what exactly is wrong with using an adjustable wrench ?
Thanks alot. I appreciate it. Adjustable wrenches are a last resort IMO. e.g. in cases where you don't have the proper size wrench available. They never fit exactly and easily slip causing the bolt/nut to round over. Depending on the quality of the adjustable wrench, they often loosen on their own which is a P.I.T.A.
very helpful, thanks, keep making videos for diy repairs
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I'm glad my video helped you out.
Great video totally informative
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Very well done !!!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
Very helpful thanks
Thanks. Glad to be of service.
how was your alignment after this if you remember? from the video it looks like the outer tie rods turn was exactly 22 turns if you pushed it in and then start turning with the bolt facing up
You will never get the alignment correct, especially if the alignment wasn't spot on before you started (which is most likely the case). The goal is to get it as close as possible to what it was before you started so you don't burn up your tires taking it to an alignment shop to get a proper alignment. An alignment shop should be one of the first places you go after you are done with this job. You don't want to drive around too long without an alignment. Hope that clears things up.
Thanks for sharing!
No problem. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Count turns but also measure from outer edge of lock nut to vertical center point of outer tie-rod end (about at the center zerk fitting)
That measurement should remain same after install. Screw tie rod in or out to adjust maintain measurement.
Measuring from the outer edge of the lock nut for the outer tie rod to the center point of the outer tie rod will just give you the length of the outer tie rod. It will not give you a measurement relative to the inner tie rod.
Now, if you meant measure from the hex end of the inner tie rod to the lock nut for the outer tie rod, that too won't work because it assumes the new & old outer tie rods are the same length. They may not be, especially if they are made by different manufacturers.
Now, if you meant measure from the hex end of the inner tie rod to the center point of the outer tie rod that would work _only_ if your alignment was good to begin with. Chances are isn't not.
The goal here is not to do a hyper accurate alignment in your garage/driveway. You'll never achieve that without expensive specialty tools. And no the string method is not accurate. The goal is to get the alignment as close as possible so you don't burn up your tires on the way to the alignment shop to get a proper alignment.
@@petrocksgarage I agree that a Alignment always needs to be done after front end work.
great vid, just liked & subbed. question; why did you change inner tie rod, should it be changed just as part of outer replacement? thanks again!
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. Re inner tie rod, I replaced it because it was worn out. You should be able to lift it up and it should not drop back down. If it does drop it is worn out and should be replaced.
This was perfect! Could you put the torque specs in the description?
Thanks and I'll see what I can do.
If I'm replacing both inner and outer tie rods, can I skip the jam nut loosening part and remove both tie rods while they're still together? This way I can also measure their total length and put the new (pre-assembled?) set in the same way?
Yeah, you could. However, after you have screwed the inner tie rod all the way on tight, chances are very high that the outer tie rod will not line up with the steering knuckle. So you'd just spin the inner tie rod to make it line up. It's debatable which is easier, IMO, because loosening the jam nut etc is not that difficult but fighting the inner/outer tie rod combo as you spin the assembly off could be a P.I.T.A. Either way, you would still need to get an alignment afterwards. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
@@petrocksgarage (Two years later!!!) I finally got around to this! Thanks to your video, all went fairly smoothly. I did just end up leaving the inner/out connected upon removal. Then to make sure the new set was the same length, I just put the old/new setup side by side using the zerk fitting as a point of reference for one side. Steering feels centered so I don't think I completely screwed it up. I'm up for new tires anyway, so I'll be getting an alignment soon. The bad news in all of this is the vibration I was getting is still there. While doing this swap, I noticed that the control arm lower ball joint seal was barely there. So that's my next job. =(
How did you know you needed to replace these? I’m having some vibration in my 12 gt. Have roadforced balanced the wheels and tires, replaced brakes. Should I tie rods next?
Tie rods wouldn't cause a vibration. Something moving/rotating is causing the vibration. Maybe the tires are out of round? Try rotating the tires and see if the vibration changes. If it does then it's the tires. If not, then check your motor & transmission mounts, as well as your drive shaft. Bad mounts or a bent/unbalanced drive shaft can all cause vibration. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage False, tie rods esp inners can cause vibrations.
@@HPX584, in extreme situations yes they can. However, if they were the cause it would be extremely obvious. They would have to be super loose and would likely have been found by the tire shop that balanced them or whomever did the brakes.
@@petrocksgarage with the boot covering it I doubt they would see. Even ball joints can cause vibrations when turning.
@@HPX584 Its actually easier to see a bad inner tie rod with the boot on then it is with the boot off. You'd see the boot wiggle when touching the steering knuckle (doing brakes) or wheel (taking tires of too balance the tires). To cause a vibration there would have to be a lot of movement and would be pretty easy to notice.
Would copper paste be good anti seize? I know its an old video but would really help to know
thanks for the awesome video too though
You mean copper anti-seize? If so, yes. Copper or silver anti-seize will do just fine. The only difference between the two is the heat range they work in. Tie rods won't get anywhere near either of their max temp spec, so they will both work. btw, the age of the video doesn't matter as long as the info inside it is still relevant. Since this is a car repair video and not a current events video, it can be 20 years old and still be useful to people. Just sayin'..
@@petrocksgarage Yeah thanks for the fast reply! my mustang is so low i have to buy a low car carjack so that's something. your video is perfect. thank you for it. I liked and subscribed. need to get this done asap. Any experience how dangerous it is to drive a mustang with a loose tie rod head
@@teemu3981 thanks for the like & sub. I appreciate it. Re loose tie rod safety: it all depends on how loose it is. Its always better to fix sooner rather than later any issues in the steering system. While it may have only a little movement today, it can quickly degrade to a lot of movement in a matter of days (depending on how much driving you do). In really bad cases, which are relatively rare but do happen, the ball joint can separate and you'd lose control of the car. Hope that helps. Good luck.
I put some inner and outer tires on my car now it like to creep from left to right did i mess up something?
Did you get it aligned afterwards? If not, you should.
@@petrocksgarage no I didn’t
@@slowboybk5098, yeah, when ever you replace the tie rods you need to get an alignment. Good luck.
As a ford tech no one takes those sensors out you just beat the shit out of the spindle and get that baby out
You do you. But as a ford tech, you likely don't care much if the sensor brakes because you can just charge the customer to replace it even though you broke it. If you were a DIY'er you would care a lot more. Just sayin'...
Pet Rock's Garage all of that is true 😁and I am a diy’er on the side but I still get your point it’s all good.
Ummm, did you really suggest hitting the cast iron steering knuckle on the bottom of the McPherson strut with a BFH??? Bad idea, and that will never work on a 200K rust belt vehicle (which your brother's GT-500 clearly isn't). If replacing the outer tie rod end, use a pickle fork with a hammer or a pickle fork attachment on an air impact and separate the tie rod end quickly. If you are worried about saving a crappy OEM $10 Ford tie rod end (limited life part with no grease fitting, unlike a Moog), put invert the nut you just took off the tie rod stud, screw it down 3/4 of the way so the end of the stud is protected and give it 1 good hit (vs. the pitty pat crap you demonstrate above) with a 3lb sledge and the tie rod will pop out of the knuckle with no damage to the stud or boot.
Yes, I did suggest that. Works like a charm, even on rusted vehicles. There are tons of videos on UA-cam showing the success of this method. The vibration from hitting the knuckle breaks up the rust. It's simple physics. Beating on the shaft of the tie rod end with or without the nut partially screwed on can easily cause it to mushroom, especially on rust belt vehicles if the tie rod end is rusted into the knuckle, making it impossible to remove without cutting. But there are many different ways to do this job. Do whatever works for you.
I guess if you've seen it on a Youtue video that must it right? 😀. Never mushroomed a stud end in 40+ yrs of taking tie rods apart with the inverted nut method, have seen people crack cast iron steering knuckles by beating on them with BFHs. Use whatever method works for you.
MOOG is garbage.
Omg thank you! I couldn’t get it off but then tried putting the backwards like you said worked like a charm
Maybe you gave up on your hands but some nitrile gloves will do you good!
Yeah, I should use them more often.
a list of the tools you used would be handy
I try to state which tools I use in the video as I'm using them (e.g. the size of the wrenches etc). Hope that helps.
MOOG is junk. If the boot popped off during install, will it hold over time when exposed to the road? Why install junk?
As with most things, opinions vary. The boot is only held on by compression from the rubber the boot is made of. It is not glued on, nor should it. So the boot popping off is not surprising nor a problem. They are still holding up to this day on this car. Either way, they have a lifetime warranty, so if it does fail I can replace it for free.
@@petrocksgarage Time is not free.
@@PaulLorenzini-ny2yw, yes, Time is the fire in which we burn.
This job can be done in less than an hour, so its not a lot of time.
you did not mention wrench size at all
Because that is dependent on the manufacturer of the ball joint. MOOG, for example, is different then stock.
😅😅 look very easy 2:53 but 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭 Hard
Your milage may vary, but hitting the knuckle like that is the easiest method I have found to pop the tie rod out. In the end, what matters is you got the job done right?
Pet Rock's Garage thanks a lot ☺️👌🏼🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 I did it by myself ☺️☺️🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thank you for this, helped a lot!
Glad to be of service.