Відео

Yup they’re all there and in good condition!

Yeah I’m thinking 37s as well, I’m probably going to do a 2 inch lift and trim the flares

Interesting 🧐 yeah I’m looking into getting the injectors turned if I get a new head, I wonder if it could be injection pump or they’re no popping correctly?

@@Austin_SaintOnge Pop pressure was checked - it was low and I could not get shims so I went with new injectors, I also resealed the pump. I am going to put air into the cylinder with the piston on TDC and see if air comes out the neighbour cylinder. I am also running compounds on a untouched stock pump. That dropped the EGTs and milage went up, boost never goes over 23 lbs. No smoke and quite clean running.

I love mindless labor, especially when I have good equipment to make it super easy

Yeah we’re pretty lucky to not have to deal with most of that! I’ve heard a lot of countries are pretty strict as far as inspections. I ran 40 inch tires with a 6 inch lift and tons of fuel on my last Cummins swapped 80 series. It depends on which state you’re in. Here in Idaho, we don’t really have any

@@Austin_SaintOnge oki thank you

It really is size wise! And when I look at the engineering on the Toyota diesels there’s a lot of similarities. Excited to hear this thing start up like the last one!

@@Austin_SaintOnge I'm jealous

yes

Yes it will!

Thanks 😊

And why do you change what is the reason for it? Isn't it better to leave the original? The originals have the greatest value.

@@TLC-HDJ80 6BT Cummins engine has around 200 HP and a torque rating of about 420 lb-ft The 1FZ-FE engine produces around 120 HP and around 200 lb-ft of torque on a good day. Many feel ideal power for these trucks is around 350 HP. I believe the diesel is also substantially more fuel efficient. (plus, it looks and sounds bad-ass!)

I believe it was most common on 2nd gen years 94-97, not sure if the 24 valves had the same issue

Pretty much anyway you slice it yeah😂

Those seem a bit heavy duty for a Land Cruiser, no?

This is true, great advice thanks!

I thought it was about glamping?

What’s the best way to measure?

This is the consensus we’ve came to along with coal

@@Austin_SaintOnge coal stove would be much better.

Yup! They’re insterstate mcbee 155 degree pistons. Haven’t taken measurement of the piston wall clearance yet, block was just bored .020 over and honed. Hp is not really a goal here, just looking for reliability and will give it a little more fuel than stock. Just going to install a governor spring.

@@Austin_SaintOnge awesome looked like it. I would suggest you set your timing to at least 18* with these pistons. I know it isn’t a high hp build or anything, but these bowls are so much deeper and the compression is a bit lower than the factory 145* bowls. The injection event is basically going to be too short with 145* injectors on a 155* bowl. Technically you can easily run 25+++ degrees without worry, but for a mild build, I’d highly recommend setting it to the 18*. It’ll still keep your EGT temps down close to stock, but massively increase your fuel mileage and a noticeable amount of power added.

@@redbaronrefining5322 I’m actually running 155 degree injectors too from a non intercooled block

@@Austin_SaintOnge ahhh ok. Set your timing to 16* then and it’ll be happy, more responsive, better economy and easy to start (compared to stock). Thanks for clarifying. I know you’re wanting to stay close to stock, but a small timing bump, and a little bit of AFC tuning will be absolutely worth it overall as the pumps are so horribly detuned from the factory for EPA bs

@@redbaronrefining5322 this is true they’re so limited from the factory. Will do!

Actually doing the piston protrusion test right now! Looking good, came back at 0.024 thousandth which is within spec!

Agreed

Facts

For sure I get how it’s difficult when it’s your daily! I actually daily a Corolla hybrid 😂 I’m actually going to keep the dodge accessory bracket! One of my buddies completed a swap without having to relocate the ac or alternator. I’ll keep you updated!

Whoops wrong terminology on my part you’re exactly right! No fire rings going in this budget build 😂

There are better tents for sure. And yeah at the end of the day it’s about surviving

Thanks bud

It cost $300 and the tent as well

ua-cam.com/video/CaAOhWnGQ1U/v-deo.htmlsi=cfPopdI5OLJc0OCC

I’m leaning that way!

Yup that’s the go for sure this next season

Oh yeah that’s right, I was looking at getting a billet one but this stock one is straight so I’ll be good

@@Austin_SaintOngeA cheap $80 billet side cover is worth it. They have dual -12 AN fittings you can run right to a catch can instead of dumping oil on the ground slowly with the stocker (vapor build and drip). You can also run the Case/New Holland dual valve cover breather for extra security when it comes to crankcase pressure. Run all lines to your 4 port catch can, and run the “breather” ports (where you’d normally have air filters) to a Venturi weld in bung on your downpipe. They can also be called scavenge exhaust adapters. This will create a small amount of vacuum so you keep crankcase pressure down as much as possible, thus preventing oil leaks for years and years.

@@redbaronrefining5322 that’s pretty trick I’m looking at an eBay one right now!

$30 from power driven diesel. Cost way more than it should for that little piece of steel, you can make your own for practically free, but a nice solution if you don’t want to take the time to

I think he meant purpose. ​@@Austin_SaintOnge

@@user-op7vk5dt7g oh good call, it’s to align the timing case with the front of the engine

Evaporust! Mixed with distilled water. Let it heat cycle a couple times then flush