Відео

Did you ever finish the three war four conversion?

One of my older Honda books simply stated not to use oil that said "resource conserving" or "energy conserving" on the label. These are the oils that usually have friction modifiers that could mess with the wet clutches.

Nice! 👍🏻

Looking good!🤣🤣🤣 That Banshee is ready for Dade City !

Only thing im trigger ab is them long ass nails

hello where do you think is the best place to buy parts for yamaha tri z?

Not a broadcast tower ita a met mast but wi nowt on it

The only thing I think would harm my bike is maybe synthetic oil do to cam wear.

I use 40-15 desil oil in my kz 750

Well said. I think the only thing you’re missing is mentioning the only reason you shouldn’t use automotive oil in a wet clutch is when it has friction modifiers In the oil.

Oil can run???

🤘

Turn out good lil at a time

Was wondering about that one. It is looking good!!

I want to race the 70cc trikes with mates. That looks cool

Not that three-wheelers aren't indestructible. But they can take abuse. Watch one drop 30 ft off a cliff and only slightly bent the front fork. Fortunately the Rider was able to grab a cactus so he didn't go off.lol He was able to ride it back to camp. Still have my 83 200X. It takes its turn with a variety of other toys on the ranch. Been building a variety of buggies for decades. Have to keep the grandkids happy. Even built a CBR 1000 powered trophy Kart. The one that gets used the most though is the 43 Willys MB. It's powered by a GL1800. And it's plugged into a Toyota 5 speed and transfer. 6 speeds and 10 gear ratios.lol and more than twice the horsepower it originally had.😂😂 I know it technically doesn't fit the category although it is motorcycle powered. 🤠🐂

In the 80's and 90's I used regular car oil in all my bikes. I never had a problem with my clutches. I've always thought it was a scam too when motorcycle specific oils came onto the market.

I just bought a 2015 drz400 with 30 000kms on it. Original clutch. The metal clutch plates had some hot spots, but it worked right up to when i replaced it. The bike was run on 10w30 and 10w40 its whole life. The original owner is a cheap bastard but never had any problems with the bike. I'll be running 15w40 in it when i put it on the road.

I wished there were more places to ride

You. Shouldn't use oil that's to slick it usually says energy conserving

Bullshit

Same here, 35+ years wrenching on 2-strokes. Never used wet clutch specific oil. Always filled in car transmission oils like 80w or 90w GL4 or GL4/5. Or for extra protection, I also used GL5 diff oil in transmissions with small and narrow gears prone to excessive wear. Never had problems with clutch slippage even though GL5 is more slippery than GL4 or GL4/5. API GL4 and GL4/5 oils are designed for wet clutches in manual transmissions. It makes no difference if that clutch is of ring (synchronizer) or of disc type (mc clutch). In Eastern Europe, road legal 2-strokes were produced until about 2014. The manufactures recommended SAE 80 for the transmissions with no exceptions.

I call BULL$HIT

modern oils often contain friction modifiers designed to improve fuel efficiency and reduce wear. These additives can indeed make the oil unsuitable for use in wet clutches, as they reduce the friction required for the clutch plates to engage properly. Over time, this contamination can lead to clutch slippage and ultimately damage the clutch system. Older formulations of oils like the classic Castrol GTX didn’t include these friction modifiers, making them more compatible with wet clutches. This distinction is crucial when selecting oil for motorcycles or other vehicles with wet clutch systems. When choosing oil for such systems, it’s important to look for products explicitly labeled as "JASO MA" or "JASO MA2," as these certifications ensure the oil is safe for wet clutches and free of friction modifiers that could cause problems.

We use type f in our 78 yz400 drag bike it's the only thing to keep it from slipping it's a big bore stroker motor nasty build,have never broken gears and launches 3rd and 4th gear primarily.But the rider is 120 pounds and a pro at what he does

As long as it is not a resource conserving oil you are good to go as long as the correct viscosity is used

Prob a synthetic thing i dont us it anyway ,coventiol oil only for me!

Ive smoked a clutch.when i added stp 45 years ago,lesson learned th hard way,ive used castrol gtx for 50 years no.problem !

Im looking at a bottle of valvaline gear oil I use in my transmission which is a gear box to me and the primary that houses a wet clutch on my bike and it states limited slip excellent friction modifier for optimal performance of the clutch pack. Its not a conspiracy they engineer oil to do different things. 25 years ago people thought synthetic oil was a scam. Automotive oil is highly regulated now they basically took out nearly all of the zinc because zinc was not good for catalytic converters by marketing the oil as something other the automotive oil such as motorcycle, lawn mower,race,gear, ect. They can use more zinc. Friction modifiers work by using microscopic particals to create more surface area for better gripping ,auto motive oil would work but were in the 21st century and you can get oils that work better in different applications

Oil is never just oil and motorcycle oil tends to need the most combined properties. Gears cause a lot or aeration. Gear oil needs to maximize anti-foam capabilities. Hypoid gears not only aerate more but also apply far more shear-forces in mating surfaces. So axel oil depends on sulfides and other compounds to resist shearing. Synchronized transmissions use red-metal rings to manage gear speeds between shifts. So transmission oil can't have certain sulfides which can attack synchros. Put one or the other of the above in a transaxle and things will go bad very fast. Want to talk about expensive oil? Ask any Porsche driver. Engine pistons/cylinders bypass a limited amount of refined gasoline, burnt, and unburnt. So engine oil needs a means of resisting contamination. Automatic transmissions have a complex array of hydraulic operations which require fast-flowing pumped oil. So ATF is a deceptively thin solution. Motorcycles need to combine many if not all of the above conditions. The chemistry in doing so is a monumental task that can make automotive engineers look like drooling cave dwellers. Clutches have 3 states. Floating, engaging, and binding. Anything will do for floating and binding. Oil, air, water, or whatever else your gears may hate. But it's that state in the middle, when your hand is on the clutch and you want to avoid wheel spin, will change drastically. Engagement has requirements incomparable to anything oil normally does. Friction modifier compounds fill that role. Get the proportions wrong and the clutch might "feel slippery". Yes, it engages but it seems to have almost no grab until a spongey 'bite' at the end of releasing which can give a surprise kick. Or, "feel grabby", like it's more of an on-off light switch. You can't feel the clutch engaging because you already been thrown on your butt and convincing yourself that you just need a lighter touch. Or it chatters. Because that's just the way it is, right? Maybe blame a loose chain or worn gears or new tires. Or worse: "All bikes chatter"... hint: All bikes don't chatter when setup right. With the right amount (normally pre-blended in MC oil) the clutch will tell you when it's touching, deliver smooth half-way hold when held half-way, and finally predictably bite when it's time to bite.

Lots of bad info here. ATF type F used to be speced for 2 strokes in the 70's. Have used it in all my 2 stroke transmissions for years. Modern car oils have friction modifiers for fuel economy that they once didn't. That is why they may make your clutch slip.

fkkk if I know, I just run what they tell me to. I blow my shtt up all the time. I just buy new motors.

Interesting conversation. I've wondered the same thing about slippery oil in the clutches.

The government wants thinner oils used, to improve gas mileage. They want zinc gone because, as has been stated, it harms catalytic converters. Because of those requirements, more friction modifiers are used, and those make the wet clutches slip. It used to be that the older spec regular automotive oil specified at the time by the bike manufacturers was compatible with wet clutches, but those oils are no longer available. As you mentioned diesel oil is a better bet. Any oil that says on the label that it is JASO MA or MA2 is compatible with motorcycle wet clutches and can be used without worry. Some diesel oils are labeled with that. Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 and 15W-40 are both labeled JASO MA/MA2. Those are full synthetics. Rotella T4 15W-40 synthetic blend is also labeled JASO MA/MA2. Both are cheaper than motorcycle-specific oils, and provide excellent protection. BTW, I started using diesel oil back in the 80s in my gasoline vehicles because we had it in drums for our diesel equipment. I used Chevron Delo for many years and never damaged a converter (always passed smog just fine).

Shell Rotella T4 and T6 both have recently been given the Jaso MA wet cluch rating. I've used T4 forever, cheap and works great.

Doesn't prove or disprove, but I don't want to chance it. Picked up a used 92 750 Nighthawk had 20k miles on it 2 yrs ago. Cleaned, rejetted, got more HP out of it. I put in Rotella 5-40. Been using diesel oils in my bikes forever. Within 4k miles the clutch started slipping. New Honda frictions, springs, and sanded the steels. At this point diesel oils are in a change mode, I don't trust them either anymore, back to motorcycle oil for me. Now I believe a clutch will "age out", time doesn't do them any good either. So don't know. I've had the same clutch in a CBR1100XX from 98 to 2008 for 80+k miles with various car oils with no slippage.🤷

In my 2-strokes I run Valvoline VR-1 in SAE40W or SAE60W, sometimes I use Valvoline VR-1 Synthetic in 20W50 depending on availability. I do Yamaha Blaster and Suzuki LT250r engines from stock all the way up to full custom race builds. Shoot me a message if you want a serious 87-92 LT250r build recipe that greatly improves reliability and performance for them. I use a rod kit and piston kit from other machines to do this and it allows you to set up the cylinder height exactly where you want it for desired port timing.

The reason manufacturers started producing there own oil is on road vehicle oil is regulated by the EPA and they have regulated the amount of zinc and phosphorus where as off road vehicles can still load up on oil high in zinc and phosphorus

That diff oil you are talking about has additives in it, limit3d slip different have clutches

I ran Type F auto trans fluid in my Rd350 for years!

💃🏾💃🏾💃🏾

I'm Bel-Ray all day, but that's me. I also over service too for an added peace of mind. It's much cheaper than an engine overhaul due to neglect.

I went through this in 1999 as a kid who thought MMI was a good idea (it's not, you spend money to learn to RTFM ~ way better to just pick up a backet case, a manual and work through it)... anyway, I learned that all the oil mfg. have a Technical phone line, and I was fresh with learning the lingo. 25 years hasn't been kind to my memory with the details, but the only difference were Slight changes in the additive packages in most cases. In a Couple cases, it was 100% marketing... same product, different label. Real world experience showed that SOME clutches did not do well with some oils (slipped). Drain the oil, replace with something else and it worked fine. The ones I've taken apart all had wear issues (slipped under some oils but not others clutches)... every New clutch I put in, never had issues with oil. Purely anecdotal, just one guys experience with nothing to back it up.... but if you're curious, it costs only the price of the oil you put in the bike to try it and see if you have clutch issues. ZERO DAMAGE WILL OCCUR to test it out and see for yourself. If it slips, drain the oil and put in whatever you know works, it'll simply go back to working again... or dig in and look at the clutch, you might find, like I did/do, that there is clutch wear and it's simply not operating optimally.

New track layout is lookin sick! Definitely wanna see more ride videos 🤙🏼

I use Valvoline 20w50 vr1 oil in all 3 holes of my harleys, never had a problem.

Had a YahamaR6 put 40k miles, only used car oil. Did few track days as well. Ran pretty well and had the original clutch when I sold it.

If you use anything but manufacturer approved oil in your engine while under warranty . Anything happens to your motorcycle it may void your warranty. I personally would use rotella low foaming but that would be as far from Jaso approved oil I would go. Sorry Brah , not going to spend $$,$$$.$$ on a ?. But I will put a car tire on my motorcycle. God bless the first amendment !

I would never use conventional oil in any of my machines, synthetic only. Try using a automotive full synthetic with your wet clutch and let me know how that works out for you

I had a Yamaha Xj650 air cooled engine that I added car oil and didn't see any issues on that. But I only did it that once time due to ignorance and I just assumed I got lucky nothing went wrong.

I used automotive oil in dirt bikes for ages with no problems. But when I tried using it in a GS750 I had a lot of clutch slippage.