Відео

You explained this so perfectly. straight to the point and youtube didn't interrupt with advert. Thank you.

Let’s make something so simple so complicated. You Europeans work too hard, in Britain we use speedfit or hep20 fittings, no expensive tools required no chamfering, cut with even a steak knife and still won’t leak ever. I was doing a job in Spain and all I was thinking is €€€€€ for the tools. Don’t fall for it people speak up.

كلمنا عن صب الخرسانه فو ق الانابيب هل نحن بحاجه لنوع خرسانه محدد شكرا لك

are you saying to screed with it at working pressure or the higher testing pressure?

Why are you people in the US still using copper pipes and a gazillion press fittings? Why not just bend multilayer composite pipes and only use the minimum amount of press fittings? Every fitting is a potential leak in 30 years.

Great educational video, thanks a lot. I'm having a question regards this. I'm having 130 m^2 floor, and I'm planning to cover it with 13 circuirts, open loops system without actuators and buffer tanks. How can I be sure that my pump can drive all od the circuits well. My pump can maintain flow 25,8 L/min for delta 5 at 35 degrees celsius and it is variable speed pump with 32/102 input / output watts. Can I go with a single manifold or I need to split the instalation on multiple manifolds?

What if the pump never starts after a resett?

What is an average cost of replacing actuator including parts and labour cost? I had to call a tech to fix the issue, they made three trips and charged me 1000$ CAD which seems like a rip off. Will appreciate some feedback.

Great video, fully understand the process. One small point is that I already have a working system with actuators fitted, how do I open the actuator ports?

Hello, I am an Iranian, my name is Mohammad, you said it very well, thank you for the positive points

My meters won't adjust any more they're seized solid and I'm afraid to put a pliers on them incase they shatter, one loop to one room seems to be gone cold though the pipes are still getting a little warm. Should i just replace them all ? they're cheap enough, and does it matter whether they go on flow or return ??

What am I doing wrong? The water goes directly through the pump no matter what circuit is open or closed.

great vid, thank you

Do ground floors ( above keller) ,remain more cold even with underfloor heating new buildings .???

Really nice videos, I have ufh system, I'd like to ask you, in this video you are bleeding the water supply manifold to take the air I guess, would it work( I mean bleeding the manifold) for the return manifold when you change pin valve in the return tube.thanks

Brilliant every home should be UFH

I get controll box not fond. And the networkstatus light flasker green it does not become solid

Why can't I have such a fantastic technician close to where I live? It's just unfair. The local plumbers are cavemen compared to this guy.

Thanks for this well informed video. Can i check if you turn off the water pump when doing this or does it need to be running? Cheers

Doesn’t an actuator controlled system blast the radiator at full any time it’s on? With the TRV you can adjust the radiator to put out just a bit of heat or full.

I am looking at the manifold at your back the black one came you tell the manufacturer please off topic I know 😂

Hey, thanks for the video. My flow meters don’t twist open/close like your ones. There’s a nut at the base of each of them which can be twisted all the way off, but this doesn’t appear to have an effect on loosening the flow meter. Any ideas? Thank you :)

Excellent, clear demonstration.

Have you ever seen a valve with a pin that is too stiff for the actuator to push it down? So the loop basically stays open all the time

This was so helpful. Really easy to understand the principle and process.. I can't fill using a hosepipe thiugh as the circuit is on the second floor. Is it possible to fill another way?

We have fairly hard water and the actuator pins jam due to plaque buildup. From time to time I remove the valves and wash them in a solution of citric acid (anti calc powder for domestic usage), which dissolves plaque. Is there any alternative way to keep the underfloor heating system running? For example, softening the circulating water by adding acid additives?

Hi. During this procedure the pump is turned on or off? Thank you!

Hi. Thanks for the video. We get a slight whistling when our single zone UH kicks in. The only other zone from our combi boiler is the central heating radiators. Any idea what may be causing the whistling ? It's quite annoying during the night. Thanks again.

finally. someone using stainless steel fittings with a stainless steel manifold. gotta try to keep it all ss to get the benefits of ss.

What is that other loop to the left of the manifold pump? Looks like it has its own temp/pressure controller, and goes back to the main return pipe. Is this some sort of auto bypass?

Given that all the 'return' activator ports are open, what stops the water returning from loop 1 (when you are filling it), flowing into loops 2, 3 and 4 by way of their return pipes? Is it the fact the loops are closed on the flow side (so air pressure would encourage the water to take the easier path into your bucket? I'd still have thought some would go in, unless there is a non-return valve built into them somewhere?

Do you need an additional loop not supplying a rad to act as a bypass? Im thinking about thermostat calling for heat, but rads being closed via TRV (if still fitted), or perhaps the only room calling for heat being a smal bathroom towel rail for example.

Hi Martin If you have the electric operated valves on the lower manifold how do you open to do a flush? I’m guessing they’re closed if the thermostat is not calling?

I've rarely seen a better instructional video than this one. This guy is absolutely bloody brilliant. He explains everything so clearly and if only more plumbers/UFH specialists were like him. 10/10. Thank you.

Thank you for the very helpful “How to” series of videos. Do you have a video of “How to” replace the UFH pump which is connected to the flow and return manifolds?

I’m interested in buying a house in Europe that has cobblestone on the ground floor, that was left in by the builders because it’s from 1887. Only problem is it’s a fairly big open space ground floor (1750sqft) with no walls between the living, dining and kitchen areas. Is it possible to take out the cobblestone and lay floor heating below it? Or do have to lay heating over it and eventually cover the cobblestone with a different type of flooring. We are torn because cobblestone is quite thick so we are unsure about the effectiveness of heat under it. And we will be disappointed if we have to cover a beautiful historical floor from 1887. But if it’s not possible, we understand we have to do it.

Really useful video, thank you :)

Any suggestions for cleaning a flow meter that is sticking ?

Cheers after waiting 11 yrs for the housing association to do this I'm happy with your clear instructions to do this by myself

Great video. What might be the reason for flow to not go above 1.5 Liter per min to one of the loops ? Other smaller loops goes to 2 Liter max but Loop 1 doesnt reach this level.

Hiya, this sounds like it would be ideal for us. What mm is the feed into the manifold? And also we are planning on installing an air source heat pump - So would the hotfeed into the manifold come directly from the heat pump or from the hot water cylinder?

our new build came with an underfloor heating system where the radiators can be turned on independently, but when the underfloor heating is on, the radiators turn on. what are the possibilities for how this would this be set up and can we change it so each is entirely independent?

any downside of installing it upstairs in hp ?

I agree about the TRV's being located next to the radiator not being ideal, but it would require much more pipe to feed each radiator individually from the manifold. Not only is that likely to mean lots more holes through joists, more piping running around the house that could be damaged, but also heat loss from all that piping! Maybe I'm a luddite, but not sure manifolds for radiators is the best way to go, especially when you can now purchase remote controlled TRV's with wall mounted thermostats!

nice

How do you connect to say a zonevalve with 22mm olives

Great video. I'm proficient DIYer here but recently putting our services into your manifolds as it's obviously the way things need to go here in UK. In terms of balancing the new systems I can't think of a better way under our nice pop out access panel. Great solution and product

Is it ok to locate a 6 port manifold below the floor it feeds, I have no location on the first floor to hide the manifold. There will be 6 rads in total.

You have only one control for all those branches so it essentially a one thermostat one zone system. I have 7 thermostates / pumps. If I put the boiler a long way away that would make for 30 ft boiler to manifold then 30 feet back. Isn’t that too long of a secondary with 60 feet of 1 inch pex heat loss in the pipes

Hi I’ve watched this video and it seems straight forward but Iv watched an uponor one where the actuator valves were closed with decorator caps, I prefer the way in this video is there much difference the other way ?