Відео

Hi there, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I'm sure you'll love the YSS Shock. Would love to hear how it goes and especially how you find the cartridges once you've had a chance to really test them and dial them in. As for commission, if only that was realit. 😁. Have fun with those new components!! And HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

CB1100???🤪

Thanks Linda, awww....a Triumph 1200 scram would be lovely 😃....you never know....

The shock installed in this video is intended for the R9T, and more specifically for a sporty/race setup. Therefore this model is not comparable to or suitable for a touring bike. But YSS do make a range of Touring and Adventure Bike specific shocks, but I have no experience with YSS on any of my other two bikes to share. Sorry that I am unable to help you with your question. All the best🙂

Thanks @codename_wind_official, I truly appreciate the feedback. I wasn't born a professional presenter or video creator, its just something I have enjoyed as a hobby. And it's great when I get honest feedback even when it's positive criticism!😃 As a content creator, you never know if a video is truly on point unless you get both types of feedback from your viewers.. So thanks!! 😃😃

The Rapidbike Evo doesn't come with an airbox sensor. But in regards to the airbox delete, I personally believe regardless on whether or not a Rapidbile module is installed, that the airfilter pods will actually reduce the amount of air reaching the engine compared to the stock snorkle. Many people dislike the snorkle on asthetic grounds, but effectively the snorkle functions as a "RAM Air" induction. Meaning not only is the negative pressure of the engine sucking the air in, but the faster you ride, the more air is forced down that snorkle into the combustion chamber of the R9T. More air, means more fuel (default ecu table range), so more bang, which means more power. Where as the pods rely solely on the negative pressure created by the engine to suck the air in, the pressure doesn't increase much with the pods the faster you go, meaning less air compared to stock. So in my personal opinion the snorkle with the RapidBike module is preferable if you are mainly concerned on performance. But for sure those pods look sweet. Note, this is just my opinion based on the engineering of ram air induction designs and I have absolutely no data to support my theory🙂

Sorted

Yes, but you can try just lifting the tank at the front 90 degrees while still attached at the back, but this can place the fuel line plastic connectors under enough strain that they can get damaged and leak. So disconnect those before lifting past 45 degrees. In my experience taking the tank completely off is both safer and makes doing other stuff under the tank easier. Although its all a complete faff compared to most other motorcycles.

You are very welcome @connectedworx!

Don't turn the engine over even once. Push it on to a trailer and deliver it to a local mechanic.

Happy to hear you enjoyed it @hamprof👍😀

Depending on whether or not you are running an EVAP Canister or not, the mounting bracket can be mounted to the left side diagonal frame tube. But you will need to fabricate a new aluminium mount block as the hole diameter of the one supplied is too small for the main frame tube. If you have a drill press and a coldcut saw (or hacksaw) you could fabricate this yourself from a small aluminium block for just a few dollars. There are other options, but you'd need to run a couple of beads of welding to fabricate a new mount from some flatbar and then bolt under the seat immediately behind the shock, but with sufficient clearance of the top of the tire at full compression. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for watching. All the best😃

@ Thanks for responding so quickly! Luckily no EVAP as it’s a 2016. I thought that would probably be the case. For the time being, till I can get a bracket made up, I might be able to temporarily mount it onto the SW-Motech pannier bracket as it seems about the same width as the missing rear sub-frame. Will look a bit naff but at least I’ll be able to get out on it till I can make it pretty. Thanks heaps for the advice. You are a gentleman and a scholar!

You're very much welcome @CarlosGomez-bj1cj😀

You're welcome 😃!

Hi @CecilWilson5442, it's great to hear you enjoyed it and got value from it. Many thanks for letting me know😀

Merci d'avoir partagé vos connaissances @CharlesStettler-kp4ot😄🥰

Je ne comprends pas pourquoi il "faudrait" enlever le filter du trop plein..? Il suffit de ne pas remplir trop le réservoir... Quel est le bénéfice pour le moteur... Je vies aux Philippines et j'ai des problèmes avec ma R9T PURE 2017 que je viens d'acheter. Le moteur ne garde pas son régime de ralenti +/- 1500 tours mais bien plus puis il oscille et parfois stop à bas régime...

Hi @davidzhang9590, if you can't smell the smell of unburnt fuel, haven't notice a change in engine performance or noticed engine pinging, then it is likely that all is perfectly fine and the canister has since cleared itself. But over-filling regularly will over time break down the activated charcoal in the canister and start causing one or more of those issues mentioned above, or worse the degraded charcoal entering your fuel lines by back syphoning into your tank, yes even small enough partciles to bypass the fuel filter in the tank. But this is extremely unlikely if you are not constantly over filling your bike. So I think you can rest assured your bike is perfectly fine if you haven't experienced the above issues. I hope that helps put your mind at rest.😀 Just remember to stop when the fuel reaches the bottom of the fuel Filler neck or when the pump clicks off, dont "top it off"😀 Thanks for the great question.

Great advice! 😀 Thanks for sharing!!

Hey there @troynewto5833, great to hear you enjoyed the video! As for the "how to". I don't have one, but have seen one by another blogger. Unfortunitely after spending 10 minutes trying to locate it I came up with nothing. So I'm not much help unfortunitely. In short you have two options: 1. Pinch the Mount holding the swinging valve so it is tighter, but still allows the valve to swing into its shut off position. 2. Press out the valve pin, fit the shim, then press the pin back into place. If you don't have any tools to press the pin out, best bet is to simply do option 1. Option 3 is to take the unit with the valve to your local mechanic or engineering shop and ask them to pop the pin out and repress back in with the nylon shim. But feel free to search the net if you still want a step-by-step guide, I'm sure I've seen someone do that. Sorry I couldn't help much further. Good luck 😀. If you need a guide on how to actually remove the assembly unit housing the valve, take a look at this video: ua-cam.com/video/3XiSs3h2X0k/v-deo.html

@@outtheresomewhere Thanks, I really appreciate the reply. I'll try the pinch method first and go from there.

Great to read you found it informative @exexpat11 .😀

Hi @fennee-g6088, yes just something that will give rather than the aluminum sump. Naturally also ensure you have the bike stropped down so it can't go anywhere while perched up on the sump. Make sure you use a quality jack. I have heard of some cheap ones failing. All the best😀👍

Hey there @Josefallassibaja, Is your bike a K21 R9T? The fork stanchions on different models have different sized diameters. Hence the clipons I used for racing may be different to those you need. To be sure, you can just measure your stanchions with a vernier gauge.

Hey there @StitchDGlitch, my understanding is that yes the 2021 R9T is compatible. If you are buying new direct from an authorized supplier they will ensure that the correct unit is matched to your "model year" of R9T. Hope this helps. All the best👊👍😀

Thanks for sharing @g.g.6362

@@g.g.6362 l presume....🥳😂🥰🤪😂

Hi @mechcavandy986, you could skip emptying the fuel and instead of removing the tank completely, leave the back bolt in place and just lift the tank 90 degrees. The only danger here is if you don't disconnect the fuel lines before lifting the tank too far past 45 degrees. Too far and you can crack the plastic fuel connectors. Hence why I recommend completely removing the tank (with or without fuel). Hope that helps 🙂

Hey there @HeydenAlerte, thanks for sharing your thoughts on your next purchase. You have a lovely Fast and Furious in comfort (XR), the R9T won't be anywhere near as comfortable especially on longer distances compared to the XR, but the R9T is an easy "around town" bike, small light and very cool 😎 . But I'm with you on keeping the XR, I'd like to have one myself🤩 All the best with your search and choice my friend 👍

US Dealers are dumping new 2023 R9T's for $10K to bring in the new 2024 R12T's. It is a good buy considering it is a BMW.

Hi @kristofdecaluwe4, I bet you had a smile on your face for sure😃. They are great bikes! I know what you are saying about "driving a truck". The reason is that the distance between the clipons to the center of the bike is less than with the standard bars which reduces the leverage. This means a little more effort is required to initiate the countersteer into a corner. But in my experience even racing on track around tight hairpin corners with clipons, you quickly adapt. One of the reasons the reduced leverage feels like " driving a truck " is simply that the R9T has heavy tubed rims. Replacing the rims with carbon rims solves this problem for racing, but it's not necessary for on-street and it's not ideal if you ride streets with the occasional pothole😆. Anyway, thanks for sharing your experience with others on my channel 👍. All the best with your search for a new bike.

Great news! 😃

Thanks for your feedback 👍

Yeah that idea has its merits if you want that burst delivery of power. Although you'll still need to balance your AFR with nitrous to ensure temperatures stay within tolerance. You would definitely have a fun-factor with nitrous. Personally I prefer the more usable naturally asperated power across the rev range rather than an "injection" delivery of power which you get from both nitrous and turbo type setups. Although those are both fun setups at least for a while. 😃

After market would definitely give you a wider selection at a better price than from an OE supplier.

Yeah a wide band Air Fuel sensor provides more frequent current signal changes as it mirrors the actual continuous AFR.

1. Preload: Turn the adjuster knob counter-clockwise as far as it will go 2. Rebound Damping: Turn the adjuster screw clockwise as far as it will go, then back it off two full turns. (Or only 1 turn for two up). That's just a basic baseline to find a starting point. You'll need to adjust it to dial it in to your specific weight and riding style and the types of roads you ride on by using "feel". See my other video on Shock Suspension for a deep dive🙂 ua-cam.com/video/ozQcRkecpHg/v-deo.html Hope this helps. All the best.

Awesome thanks mate!

@@outtheresomewhere took her out last night with your settings and it's much better. The bike doesn't throw me off the seat now when I go over bumps, it's not so twitchy on the bends and back feels at one with the front in general. Thanks again!

Great that you spotted that in time🙂👍

Shop around the aftermarket for a decently reviewed one. Can this bike live without one? Most bikes don't come with them OEM.

You're very welcome @benwoodruff4466 🙂.

@ahmadmajed many thanks for your encouraging post! 🙂. Much appreciated. I wish you all the best for you and your bike. 👊✊️👍

Clever option when you don't have the tool at hand. Thanks for sharing @zefini7397 👍😊

Hi @mchaelc9794, thanks for the very valid question😀. To be honest I intentionally avoided that entire subject for a few reasons : 1. the answer of specific numbers around BHP gained, will be different for different bike setups (e.g. mine is not stock) 2. the real advantage of a module for street riding isn't so much added BHP, but is ride-ability, smooth power delivery etc. 3. Modules provide additional features over a gain in BHP e.g. QuickShifter, Refined Throttle response, Engine Braking and Traction Control etc. After saying that, you will notice a change in Power and Torque, as the module adapts to how you ride (but nothing mind blowing). But in my mind, for an R9T power gain isn't the main reason why I'd recommend a module. It's more "USEABLE Power and Torque". Hence why I wanted this video to provide hopefully useful information around the "features" provided rather than the specific BHP numbers. After saying that, if I dyno my race bike for next season maybe I will create a video on that and focus on the numbers 😀

😆

Hi Henry, thanks for your comment😀. It's great you enjoyed it!

That's great to hear @PhilG221!!💙👍😃. Yes, that old delima, if only we riders could all afford a mini warehouse and a bottomless bank account, I too would have more bikes. Out of interest what are you riding now?😀

@@outtheresomewhere I'm now on a BMW R1250GS. Doing long distances and quite a bit of off-roading during my trips.

😆 ...that Kiwi accent.... ....can't shake it.

Im really glad you enjoyed it @movistar7. As nice as your Agusta is! Ive always admired them, an R9T just has a heap of retro character which really puts a smile on your face while riding. So naturally I highly recommend an R9T. All the best with your search😃👊✊️👍

Thanks @madsthornsen... I'm glad you enjoyed it!😃.

@UncleWally3, thanks for the question. From my experience in the R9T community, the flange seal issue isn't a "common" issue. But it is worth checking closely when buying used as it has failed on some owners shaft driven Beemers (including my own). As for the idle gear, personally I haven't heard of anyone in my immediate circle of riders mention it in the context of the R9T. After saying that, any shaftdriven bike has additional components which chain driven don't have, and which naturally can fail. But I wouldn't place those in the "common" group for the R9T, just the "possible" group for shaftdriven bikes, if that makes sense. It's not common, I'd be more concerned about the Swing Arm Pivot Pin coming loose, which was added as a recall item by BMW after this video was made. Hope this helps a little. Take care out there 👊✊️👍

Good question @ibnanSuleman👍. If the space at the back of the tank is already occupied with an immobilizer as is in your case, and you are not able to store it in the seat cowl, then you need to get a little creative and employ a little fabrication of a bracket to attach it to the inside frame or even a couple of zip ties. In the case of the Race module being black it's not so noticable. In the case of the silver modules, I'd spray them black or fabricate a little box/mount. I'm likely to have the same decision to make in the near future, as I will be returning my R9T to road condition instead off race and will reinstall the alarm. So let me know what you finally decide on. Maybe you find a better solution than what I have suggested. Good luck👍👊✊️