Відео

Well picked up. That actually had nothing to do with Clarkson’s farm but just thought it fitted well and was funny

@@alfatechniks887 it’s very common in Britain so I recognised it.

Hi have you got individual bypass screws on your carbs? Are they all screwed in and set? Do you have matching jets, emulsion tubes etc etc just a couple of ideas to start with

@@alfatechniks887 No bypass screws, i got dellortos. I'm not quiet sure on the insides of that carb + the car barely moved in the last 3 years. I guess the carbs are just blocked for old gasoline. I gonna deinstall the carbs and clean them throughly, luckily i found a carb specialist in my area ( which is extremely rare here ).

Good idea and well done to find a specialist. The other cause might be air leaks around the gaskets, and inlet manifold but this would give you a lean situation and having said that you have the opposite by the sounds. Be good to know how you get on

@@alfatechniks887 i'm gonna keep you updated, next week i'm gonna deinstall the carbs and give them to the specialist and then order all the parts i need to restore the carbs, last year i drove the car without any problem, but i guess just to little, as you know carbs don't like rest. When the carbs got restored the specialist offered me to tune the engine on his dyno, yeah you heard that right, never imagined i find a guy in my god forsaken town with cool stuff like that, he also mentioned he used to raced with those carburators so im quiet hyped

Yes they were out and needed adjusting, not so bad when car was warm. thank you

No problem. The car was actually still overheating and I found it to be a blockage in the radiator. Upgraded that and ran the car for a year in very hot weather with the colder thermostat and it was fine. I never took it out in cold weather to see the difference

I’m happy to help, are you based in the UK, Im in Hampshire

You could try vapourblasting which is even better but not always accessible to the DIYer due to its expense. The CLR in hot water works for my applications, I don’t want them to look brand new, some people do, I’m more of a restorer

Can you tell from the video? I will check it on an flat surface.

Thank you Paul for your advice, It will be most needed! I haven't separated the pump cover yet from the housing. Could I use the assembled carb as a reference when I come to reassembly? I wont be using these carbs and will likely be for sale afterwards so I the next owner may have to calibrate.

Thank you, For the quarterlight or for window regulator (winder)? I’m on instagram so send some pics if it helps

Hey, thanks for your reply, it finally work after a lot of pulling and playing around...it was just stuck on the thread

Great glad you found the fault

Thank you Pete. An update is to come soon

Hi thank you for your comprehensive comment. I do agree spark plugs don’t need to be overnight. I should state the recommended torque but didn’t in the video. And yes the top edge of the butterfly plates should just be visible on the first progression hole on across all cylinders to get baseline correct as a starter before synch balancing. Thanks again and really appreciated 👍

@@alfatechniks887 I haven't used the progression hole method to sync the butterflies before but I'll have to give it a try. Actually I'd never thought to do that before. I usually use a feeler gauge made of a sliver of plastic drinking straw which works well. I open the butterflies, put the feeler at the bottom of the butterflies between the butterfly and the throttle bore then close the butterfly on top of it. Then I keep slowly turning the sync screw until I can just barely pull it out, then I repeat that on the other carb. Easier to do when the carbs are off though and approach it from the back end. I trust mechanical methods to tell me they're synced as opposed to vacuum readings because so many other things can affect vacuum, such as bleed screw position, leaks, varied cylinder compression, rising and falling revs while tuning etc.

I like your ideas regarding the feeler gauge method. Nice for you to share. Is yours all working nicely?

I’m on it!

@@alfatechniks887 As JL would say you need a plan 😉

Hi sorry for the delay. In short no and you may have to web search the differences. Assuming the G is a later carb and there will be minor differences. Things to look out for are air bypass screws, the 4 might have 4 progression holes and the G might have 5. Potentially one or both might be an emissions version? Minor changes changes in mouldings, e.g the idle mixture screws. I may have given you an idea but please search more on the web. Cheers

Bushings for the carbs? Yes 👍

Amazon!

To be fair I should have done it a couple of years ago but the door project took longer than I thought and I didn’t have much spare time. It’s off the road for now until it’s repaired, cars older than 40yrs old in the UK don’t require an MOT but we are still expected to maintain them unsure upkeep and for safety! This one will be a steep learning curve and it will probably run well into our spring. Next video will be stripping down and front valance removal, then onto the repairs.

I had forgotten about the no MOT requirement for older cars. We don't have that here, in fact older than the year 2000 the checks are 6 monthly which is nuts, particularly for classics that may not do many kms in that time. Look forward to seeing the next stage... and what else you find as you dig inwards.

I’m afraid that the rust runs much further than you think. The inner wing is a double profile. Might be worthwhile to remove the engine to get some proper access 😮

Thank you for your advice. I’m going to take it as far as I can and assess as I go. If it is then yes engine could be coming out. Good point

Yes. I felt I could see enough and if there were any cracks the valves would be coming out for closer inspection

Vinegar is mainly ethanoic acid s as be when mixed with a metal, a zinc ethanoate is produced along with hydrogen gas which you saw bubbling. White vinegar is best but I didn’t have any to hand. The bicarbonate soda just helps the reaction take place, not neutralise it otherwise it won’t work.

Thank that’s most kind

Yes good point, back in part 5 of the series ua-cam.com/video/6NWcaB_r1kc/v-deo.htmlsi=4-63OeL3yo_KN60K I take a look at door seals. It’s a bit of a cheats solution as like you say they are tricky so I just wanted to avoid the art of aligning it with an old seal. When I have the doors finally painted I may do a round up video of the doors seals and final alignment.

Have you tried 1.5 turns. This is what I would recommend. I should be enough to get you started. Are you in the UK?

I'm in Australia. Just ordered an eye-watering amount of stuff from Classic Alfa and Alfaholics. This is a partially completed resto that I've just bought so am discovering a whole lot of things. I've never had Dellortos before. I'm cleaning out the fuel tank and filters before I run it through to the carbies. Will start at 1.5 turns and see if it fires. Compression is good on all 4.@@alfatechniks887

They are great retailers for Alfa parts, one the about classic Alfa Romeo’s is that parts are so expensive but very tempting options are there to go for lightweight race parts which if you have money are so nice. Enjoy you build. Do you watch homebuiltbyjeff I follow him in Oz. Make sure to synchronise those carbies once running

Hi again, the car hasn't run for about 5 years so it was a treat to hear it fire up after a few goes. I started with 1.5 turns out for the idle screws but I chickened out and turned them out to 2. Then it fired and runs nicely. I just got my synchrometer from Classic Alfa ( ordered on a Monday ...delivered to country Victoria, Australia by the next Tuesday !!) I had them horribly off balance and this little gadget got them to a balanced 2.5kg/hr idling at 800rpm after a couple of minutes. I then tried the laser thermometer and adjusted the idle screws. It sounds right and feels right but the temps were fluctuating madly... maybe the thermometer? Thanks for the videos ... i've watched them many times to get this far :)@@alfatechniks887

Brilliant news and thanks for your feedback. Looks like you are having fun and learning all the way. It will just need fine tuning. Have you adjust the ignition timing at all. Is that all set up correctly?

Between 3 and 3.5psi

Hi that’s a very good question. It’s red and I think Huco coils are red but I’m sure there are other red ones out there. There is no sticker or name on it. I do though however have a Petronix magnetic pick up in the dizzy and run an MSD 6AL capacitive discharge controller with built in rev limiter so these trick parts have transformed the way the car starts and idles

@@alfatechniks887 awesome setup. True what you say all the tricks all come together like one beautiful choir. Here in south Africa we so limited to parts(so it seems) and those who have clinging on to it like a retirement fund🤣 and I'm talking about all the parts I know of used in the 90s and early 2000s(my teenage years)

Do you follow Jethro Bronner? He’s in SA and has loads of parts by the looks of it.

@@alfatechniks887 I don't think so I'll have a look just now. Thanks so much

Non ho capito come regolare il 1 e il 4 cilindro,così si regola solo il 2 e il 3 cilindro?

Hi thank you very much. Always here to give advice if you need it or make any content that people would like

No sorry

No sorry

Correct nice one

Excellent advice thank you

Yes nice job!

No one has got it yet. It is the UK

Excellent guess. Actually Belfast

Reduces the risk of air leaks, and longer intakes provides more torque at bottom end

Oh nice work, the receiver plate on the B pillar is adjustable. It may also have shims behind it. Yes I had in the end had to use a file just to allow some room on the latch.

@@alfatechniks887 I tried that too

Thank you for your feedback. Here to help if I can and also show content that viewers are interested in. I might try some more carb tuning vids next

Great advice thank you 🙏

No but there’s no floor under the engine so plenty of air to escape and flow out

Hi that’s a very good question unfortunately I would not be able to tell you the answer. Strictly speaking there is no such thing as an Alfa Romeo Carburettor for this period, they mainly used Dellorto’s or Weber’s. It all depends on your inlet manifold

Nope sorry, keep guessing

Way off but like the idea

Nope sorry, it’s in the UK

no i'm afraid not but similar size

That would be my guess, too.

nope, sorry, good guess though

2 out of 2!