Відео

Forgot to mention doglegged

i want to know this too!!

This was Original Farrow & Ball matt emulsion paint called "Stiffkey Blue" here is the link: www.farrow-ball.com/paint/stiffkey-blue?sku=5029496012125&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuMC2BhA7EiwAmJKRrFGclPSg4WeLeBETNjNc3VTB768OkqoyoG-eYpWGGh60KTjsZjsTmRoCywIQAvD_BwE

@@leet1850 Stiffkey Blue from Farrow and Ball :) www.farrow-ball.com/paint/stiffkey-blue?sku=5029496012125&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwuMC2BhA7EiwAmJKRrFGclPSg4WeLeBETNjNc3VTB768OkqoyoG-eYpWGGh60KTjsZjsTmRoCywIQAvD_BwE

Thanks Beccy, youve been great and thanks for all that help woth moving stuff around the room. Good Team work 💪💪💪

Yeah youre right, not much noise reduction but at least its warmer. 👍

Thanks Cameron, new video is already being edited 👌

Thanks Dyno...more videos coming soon, been doing a lot of interesting jobs recently. So stay tuned in 😀

Good question! I found this product manual and it says: " metallised scrim upwards...and rubber crumb to the subfloor" so all is right.....and silver goes on top and rubber down

www.screwfix.com/p/3-5mm-rubber-underlay-10m-/233rg

I think with lvt flooring there is less danger of expanding as lvt is made of some kind of rubber/composite/plastic not sure whataterial it really is but i dont think it expanding much. I definetely leave a small gap anyway with lvt to be sure. Wooden floors expand and need a gap for sure. Thanks for a good comment! Keep up good work! 💪

Good question, i havent recorded that move but i went as close to the inner corner with guilde and plunge saw ...as close to the point that top of floor was cut and i had visible corner cut from top and than i used multitool to cut the floor board down fully so all came off clean. In short - i used multitool 💪

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter I'm attempting my first install in a couple of weeks, so I'll need to find a solution without multi tool (don't have one) maybe I'll end up finishing with a router.

Excellent....good luck with your cupboard project 💪

Nice one! Thats why i record those jobs to show that everyone can do these jobs themselfs 💪

My client Dean specificly wanted glued down as he didnt want to have any movement on the floor. When you do underlay then its a floating floor and it mives sometimes and bouces if there is air pockets underneath. I used concrete sealer and i dont know whats underneath the concrete. Concrete was dry and was no dump so all should be fine.

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter fair enough mate great job 👍

Thanks for that, flooring jobs are my favourite jobs. Glade you liked the video 👍

Thanks for that lovely comment. Im always open for good clients and good jobs whereever they are in the world 👍. If the job is worth taking than i take it 👍

Glade you liked the video greg 💪 Here is that cupboard hinge: Jig Template for Kitchen, Bedroom, Bathroom Cabinet Hinges and Mounting Plates amzn.eu/d/imSyM9o I dont remember the blum hinge model but it was a standard soft close hinge. Good luck with your project!

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter Thanks very much for your follow-up! I will look into that jig. Thanks for your time and all the best!

I had same profile for flat walls but it was stiff skirting so it was a good joint but every ogee and torus from different shops is slightly different even if its same height the shape is hard to match. So i ld always advise to use same brand skirting for enitire room. So it meets nicely 👌 Thanks for a good comment and good question 👍

Maybe not, having seen the price!

Yeah with things like that i leave it to customers to buy it.....but it is an interesting thing that flexible skirting

You don't want the skirting to follow the same profile of a wall that is all over the place....

You can install it both ways on concrete: glue down or underlay. With gluing down adavntage is that its gona be fitted down solidly and wont bounce and move at all. For some people this is most important hing- that the floor is hard and wont bounce. But gluing needs special preps first special concreate sealer. Than cost of glue is not cheap. And its a dirty job. underlay howere is easier and cheaper but still needs glueing edge to edge and adds cost of underlay. Both ways are good on concrete. Id do glueing down. Good luck with the project! 💪💪💪

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter Thanks alot !! Great help. 👍🏻 il have to seal the floor then get it started

Pleased to hear my video gave you the answer how to resolve this problem with levelling the floor. Awesome news. Keep up good work! 💪

Thanks Chris, trying new style of editing whish shows more details.....glade you like it. I use normal jigsaw blades bosh i think from screwfix. I also use these multi tool blades: www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-multi-material-plunge-cutting-blades-64mm-5-pack/4795v Good luck brother! 🙌

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter thanks mate for the reply. Look forward to any new videos you release

Check other videos ive done. If you can do normal floors in straight planks you ll be able to do herringbone too. Good luck brother 💪

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter yeah sure i will check other videos of you to get more ideas. Hopefully i can do it. Our client expected good result from me and hope i can meet their satisfaction.

Thanks Olly 👍 Yeah always using new blade on end panels 👌

Thanks Dyno!

I think i used 12mm mdf on cover top and bottom pluse the wood which was about 25mm so together 12mm +12 +25 = 49mm thickness of the shelve plus 1mm of paint 😀. 50mm 👌

thanks 👍

Yeah thats LVT here is that product: www.flooringsuperstore.com/evocore-premium-natural-english-oak.html

Thanks bro...not a bog reason for that, just no need for more glue in my opinion. It always feels like a solid joint between rows of boards. Even cheap woodglue from screwfix or flooring glue is good enough in my opinion. Its cheaper also which is a bonus. Oh also i never glue side of the boards/the width i only do long sides....

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter Thanks. I also wondered if this might help if you ever needed to take a few up to access pipes or wires under the floor.

Thanks 👍

Thank you 👍

Thanks Ed, true disconnecting oven than pull it out completely just to dismantle side panels for trimming...its all a bit of a head ache, right....but price is sweet when you have perfexly finished floor around those units :) so good luck! 💪

@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter Thanks FPNC!

When i do click herringbone i shave/scrape tiny round bit from the "tongue" and by doing that the board from "click" turns into "tongue and groove" flooring which means you can than slide flat the tongue board into groove boards without clicking at an angle. But i add wood glue for securing that joint. With this flooring in rhis video its all tongue and groove so i was able to fill little trimgle at the end withiut any shaving tongues...it all slides flat into the groove board.... Thing is that when you start flooring with little triangles first than its hard to keep parrarel line of rest of the herringbone with the long wall. Its easy to go at wrong angle. But when you start with flull rows of V shape herringbone then you can easly have pararel line of boards with big long wall cos you have chalk line. Hope it makes sense and really good technical question thanks!

Well done! Thats the whole purpose of these videos.....to show you that you can do it easly yourself, so good to hear it. Greatings flying to canada 😀

Thanks for a nice comment....me and my client Lindy decided that we keep the gap about 6mm ans we wont have any filler or silicone or colour matched caulk-nothing. Thats how my client wanted and it does look good as it it. I used standard 3mm underlay that looks like styrofoam with silver thin layer on top, nothing special. Its because it was on first floor so was no need for waterproof or sound proof or warmer thicker underlay. In the basement or with neighbour downstairs id recommend something much thicker 5mm up. Good luck!

Thank you! Unfortunetely i dont know whos done the staircase job :( it was already done when i started my flooring...but the house was stunning i was invited for showing of party by owners and it was an amazing looking house

Youre right, thanks a good point brother 👍

Thanks, it was a tricky job doing those last row of boards....there is about 6mm gap all around, thats enough space for expansion